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    <title>Arts &amp; Mysteries blog</title>
    <link>http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/</link>
    <description>Popular Woodworking Magazine</description>
    <language>en-us</language>
    <copyright>F+W Media, Inc.</copyright>
    <lastBuildDate>Sat, 12 Sep 2009 22:04:32 GMT</lastBuildDate>
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    <managingEditor>chris.schwarz@fwpubs.com</managingEditor>
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      <dc:creator>Adam</dc:creator>
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      <slash:comments>4</slash:comments>
      <title>Make your magazine come to life</title>
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      <link>http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/2009/09/12/MakeYourMagazineComeToLife.aspx</link>
      <pubDate>Sat, 12 Sep 2009 22:04:32 GMT</pubDate>
      <description>&lt;p&gt;
I've had a few occasions to speak to woodworking groups. Each time, I've asked myself
how I could make the audience's experience great. Being brutally honest, print is
probably a better way to learn. You can read at your own pace. I get to choose my
words carefully. The photos and graphics are carefully designed to illustrate the
point. So if I was to focus solely on teaching the subject matter at hand, I could
probably do a better job in print than I can in person. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
Though you know me as a woodworking author, like the other woodworking authors, I'm
really a woodworker first, author second. I've sat in those same uncomfortable church,
and hotel seminar room chairs, and I know what I've gotten out of the experience. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
If you have your wits about you, you can learn WAY more with a 5 minute conversation
with the demonstrator than you ever could reading a book or magazine article. And
that was certainly my experience, chatting with the likes of Roy Underrhill, Mike
Dunbar, or Mack Headley. I think I've read everything these guys have written. Speaking
with them, seeing them work, has changed my understanding of their work, approaches,
and products. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;&lt;br&lt;br&gt;
In a few short weeks, authors you know and some you don't will gather in Valley Forge
PA. It will be a magazine come to life. It's your opportunity to get eyeball to eyeball
with some really great woodworkers (authors and otherwise). Its a chance for them
to step out of their print and for you to see what makes them tick, and what they
are really like. Think of it like a woodworking town hall meeting. Got a bone to pick?
Maybe you're fine with the Presidents's health care plan but you're mad as hell that
I use the word "pitch" to describe the size of saw teeth. This is the place to hash
it out. I can't speak for every presenter, but I'll be doing my darnedest to offer
you something you can't get in print. For me, that usually means audience suggested
demonstrations, lots of interaction, and accessibility. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
But you have to do your part too. If you come, don't be a wall flower. Make sure you
corner the presenters you've been wanted to interrogate. That's what we're there for.
Woodworking In America is a magazine come to life. But don't just turn the pages. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
Adam 
&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;img width="0" height="0" src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/aggbug.ashx?id=6ca982aa-280d-4e2f-a619-f5cebf8aac6e" /&gt;</description>
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      <dc:creator>Adam</dc:creator>
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        <p>
          <img border="0" src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/content/binary/resaw.jpg" />
          <br />
          <br />
I'm personally gratified by the amount of progress I see in woodworking today. When
the author of "Table Saw Magic" (really? magic?) says to me with a gleam in his eye
that he's ditching his power tools to "come over to your way", what am I supposed
to say besides "Hallelujah brother!". 
<br /><br />
I don't emotionally plug into my participation here. I'm just pleased to see folks
trying new stuff, no longer convinced the modern industrial manufacturing models are
the only way. Forget about better. As human beings we are explorers. I heard a radio
show about Alzheimer's patients who wander away from their homes. Its a huge problem,
but also a glimpse of who we are, what we are meant to do. Does the Alzheimers cause
the need to leave, or does it just remove our inhibitions to do what is natural for
us? 
<br /><br />
Reading thru the various ww magazines and websites one can be lulled into the false
impression that everything is known, everything has been done. I'm not trying to put
anyone down. And I am just as guilty, if guilty is the right word, of being overly
enthusiastic about things I've learned. 
<br /><br />
I just wanted to remind you, that the hand tool ship has room for more explorers.
We don't know everything. 
<br /><br />
I'm working on a spice chest for a Kelly Mehler class. It's roughly 17x17" and has
11 drawers. The drawer dividers are 1/4" thick. Where do you get 1/4" stock in an
18th c shop? You have only a few choices; plane it, split it, or saw it. 
<br /><br />
Despite it's diminutive size, the resaw operations were considerable. The stock was
9" wide (KD SYP). This is no kidding around stuff. I used a saw I made (copy from
Roubo) for the purpose. I'm not at all satisfied with it. It cuts fast, but is difficult
to control. Establishing a kerf (alone) is all but impossible. I began the cuts with
a hand saw. 
<br /><br />
We should assume not EVERYTHING they did in 18th c woodshops was elegant and effortless.
Some of their work must have been, as so many modern ww believe, drudgery. The problem
is, steeped as we are in our ignorance, anchored as we are to our arm chairs, it's
difficult for us to know which operations were drudgery and which were not. 
<br /><br />
Jim Tolpin has changed his ship's course. He's begun a journey that will take him
to far away lands. As such, he's not so much a convert to a woodworking religion,
but a model of what we all are or should become. We are explorers. Many a distant
shore awaits our discovery. 
<br /><br />
Adam
</p>
        <img width="0" height="0" src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/aggbug.ashx?id=08a364fe-6973-4b6b-b776-8e01e3fb0fa2" />
      </body>
      <title>Exploring hand tools</title>
      <guid isPermaLink="false">http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/PermaLink,guid,08a364fe-6973-4b6b-b776-8e01e3fb0fa2.aspx</guid>
      <link>http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/2009/09/07/ExploringHandTools.aspx</link>
      <pubDate>Mon, 07 Sep 2009 07:03:07 GMT</pubDate>
      <description>&lt;p&gt;
&lt;img border="0" src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/content/binary/resaw.jpg"&gt; 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
I'm personally gratified by the amount of progress I see in woodworking today. When
the author of "Table Saw Magic" (really? magic?) says to me with a gleam in his eye
that he's ditching his power tools to "come over to your way", what am I supposed
to say besides "Hallelujah brother!". 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
I don't emotionally plug into my participation here. I'm just pleased to see folks
trying new stuff, no longer convinced the modern industrial manufacturing models are
the only way. Forget about better. As human beings we are explorers. I heard a radio
show about Alzheimer's patients who wander away from their homes. Its a huge problem,
but also a glimpse of who we are, what we are meant to do. Does the Alzheimers cause
the need to leave, or does it just remove our inhibitions to do what is natural for
us? 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
Reading thru the various ww magazines and websites one can be lulled into the false
impression that everything is known, everything has been done. I'm not trying to put
anyone down. And I am just as guilty, if guilty is the right word, of being overly
enthusiastic about things I've learned. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
I just wanted to remind you, that the hand tool ship has room for more explorers.
We don't know everything. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
I'm working on a spice chest for a Kelly Mehler class. It's roughly 17x17" and has
11 drawers. The drawer dividers are 1/4" thick. Where do you get 1/4" stock in an
18th c shop? You have only a few choices; plane it, split it, or saw it. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
Despite it's diminutive size, the resaw operations were considerable. The stock was
9" wide (KD SYP). This is no kidding around stuff. I used a saw I made (copy from
Roubo) for the purpose. I'm not at all satisfied with it. It cuts fast, but is difficult
to control. Establishing a kerf (alone) is all but impossible. I began the cuts with
a hand saw. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
We should assume not EVERYTHING they did in 18th c woodshops was elegant and effortless.
Some of their work must have been, as so many modern ww believe, drudgery. The problem
is, steeped as we are in our ignorance, anchored as we are to our arm chairs, it's
difficult for us to know which operations were drudgery and which were not. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
Jim Tolpin has changed his ship's course. He's begun a journey that will take him
to far away lands. As such, he's not so much a convert to a woodworking religion,
but a model of what we all are or should become. We are explorers. Many a distant
shore awaits our discovery. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
Adam
&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;img width="0" height="0" src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/aggbug.ashx?id=08a364fe-6973-4b6b-b776-8e01e3fb0fa2" /&gt;</description>
      <comments>http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/CommentView,guid,08a364fe-6973-4b6b-b776-8e01e3fb0fa2.aspx</comments>
    </item>
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      <dc:creator>Adam</dc:creator>
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      <slash:comments>8</slash:comments>
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        <p>
          <img border="0" src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/content/binary/cover.jpg" />
          <br />
          <br />
PW has published a <a href="http://www.woodworkersbookshop.com/product/cd-arts-and-mysteries-of-hand-tools/">compilation</a> of
my column to date and added some great Schwarz content to round it out narratively.
What you get is a cd that works a little like a webpage. There's an introductory screen
that includes a linked table of contents. Click on the article and you get a searchable
pdf document. It should work on any computer. 
<br /><br />
I'm thrilled to see it. Many folks have asked when I'm going to publish my articles
in a book. I think this is better. Schwarz really convinced me of just how ecologically
evil the printing industry is. Let's save the trees for woodworking. 
<br /><br />
Just to remind you, there are few articles of mine that I think everyone should have
a copy of handy; the ball and claw is probably one of the best, most complete looks
at this subject ever. Though there's plenty of quibble with, I think the "Soul and
Basis of our Art" was one of my best and worth reviewing. Ditto, the "Plumley Inventory"
is worth a reread. Personally, I took a look over my earliest articles to see if and
how my writing changed. I think you can certainly see me growing as an author and
a woodworker over those 4 years. 
<br /><br />
My friends and I often joke about our woodworking libraries (how large they are- how
you could spend all your ww time making bookshelves to hold your ww books). On the
subjects of period woodworking and building case furniture with hand tools, there
really aren't that many good titles. For this reason alone, I think that if this subject
interests you, you should have a copy. 
<br /><br />
Adam 
</p>
        <img width="0" height="0" src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/aggbug.ashx?id=52d38d0b-b792-417b-a4e0-391fedfc96e7" />
      </body>
      <title>Arts &amp; Mysteries on CD</title>
      <guid isPermaLink="false">http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/PermaLink,guid,52d38d0b-b792-417b-a4e0-391fedfc96e7.aspx</guid>
      <link>http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/2009/08/02/ArtsMysteriesOnCD.aspx</link>
      <pubDate>Sun, 02 Aug 2009 22:47:32 GMT</pubDate>
      <description>&lt;p&gt;
&lt;img border="0" src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/content/binary/cover.jpg"&gt; 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
PW has published a &lt;a href="http://www.woodworkersbookshop.com/product/cd-arts-and-mysteries-of-hand-tools/"&gt;compilation&lt;/a&gt; of
my column to date and added some great Schwarz content to round it out narratively.
What you get is a cd that works a little like a webpage. There's an introductory screen
that includes a linked table of contents. Click on the article and you get a searchable
pdf document. It should work on any computer. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
I'm thrilled to see it. Many folks have asked when I'm going to publish my articles
in a book. I think this is better. Schwarz really convinced me of just how ecologically
evil the printing industry is. Let's save the trees for woodworking. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
Just to remind you, there are few articles of mine that I think everyone should have
a copy of handy; the ball and claw is probably one of the best, most complete looks
at this subject ever. Though there's plenty of quibble with, I think the "Soul and
Basis of our Art" was one of my best and worth reviewing. Ditto, the "Plumley Inventory"
is worth a reread. Personally, I took a look over my earliest articles to see if and
how my writing changed. I think you can certainly see me growing as an author and
a woodworker over those 4 years. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
My friends and I often joke about our woodworking libraries (how large they are- how
you could spend all your ww time making bookshelves to hold your ww books). On the
subjects of period woodworking and building case furniture with hand tools, there
really aren't that many good titles. For this reason alone, I think that if this subject
interests you, you should have a copy. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
Adam 
&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;img width="0" height="0" src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/aggbug.ashx?id=52d38d0b-b792-417b-a4e0-391fedfc96e7" /&gt;</description>
      <comments>http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/CommentView,guid,52d38d0b-b792-417b-a4e0-391fedfc96e7.aspx</comments>
    </item>
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      <dc:creator>Adam</dc:creator>
      <wfw:comment>http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/CommentView,guid,9402fa46-d30b-4345-990e-4dfb7bcd2977.aspx</wfw:comment>
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      <slash:comments>23</slash:comments>
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        <p>
          <img border="0" src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/content/binary/cup.jpg" />
          <br />
          <br />
Last time I visited Kelly Mehler's <a href="http://www.kellymehler.com/">school</a>,
I admired the fine sharpening set-up he had. People who are serious about woodworking
have permanent sharpening stations, and Kelly's is top notch. One thing I like about
it is the grinders are downstairs with the other nasty smelly machines. 
<br /><br />
Anyway, I was thinking about the etiquette of using someone else's sharpening stones.
I'm teaching another class at Kelly's this Fall and a student asked about what chisels
to bring. I told him (Joe) that if you are bringing your own chisels, you should probably
bring your own stones as well. To me, using someone else's stone is like drinking
from their coffee cup. I wasn't sure that was a great analogy so I thought I ask you.
So I have two questions: 
<br /><br />
1) Is it okay to use someone else's sharpening stone? 
<br /><br />
I tried using one of <a href="http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com">Joel's</a> once.
He wouldn't let me. Did I mention that Joel was selling stones at the time? Yes, Joel
is a bit quirky, but I think he's right about this one. 
<br /><br />
2) If using someone else's stone really is icky, what would be a good analogy? My
coffee cup analogy isn't a good one. If you washed it before and after you use it,
what's the difference if you borrow a cup? 
<br /><br />
The cup in the picture above has a funny story. I've met Roy Underhill several times
at conferences in Williamsburg. He's always mobbed. I mean, he's a real celebrity,
and especially so in Williamsburg. I'm fairly certain he doesn't read my column or
blog and when he sees me, I always introduce myself to remind him of who I am. 
<br /><br />
Last year at WiA:Berea, I was fortunate to be pared up with St. Roy in a class on
chisel use. Roy is a real professional. The class went pretty well. The following
day, I was packing up my demo booth and Roy came wandering thr the market place where
my booth was set-up. He had a surprised look on his face when he saw me. He thanked
me for my previous day's efforts, then reached into his pocket and pulled out the
cup in the picture above, complete with remnants of his morning's coffee (there are
always remnants). It's a neat cup and I was thrilled to have it. But that's the point:
Stones are like coffee cups aren't they? Unless you flatten them after each use, you
really are leaving coffee grounds behind for someone else, agree? 
<br /><br />
Adam 
</p>
        <img width="0" height="0" src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/aggbug.ashx?id=9402fa46-d30b-4345-990e-4dfb7bcd2977" />
      </body>
      <title>Sharpening etiquette help needed</title>
      <guid isPermaLink="false">http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/PermaLink,guid,9402fa46-d30b-4345-990e-4dfb7bcd2977.aspx</guid>
      <link>http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/2009/07/19/SharpeningEtiquetteHelpNeeded.aspx</link>
      <pubDate>Sun, 19 Jul 2009 22:41:30 GMT</pubDate>
      <description>&lt;p&gt;
&lt;img border="0" src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/content/binary/cup.jpg"&gt; 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
Last time I visited Kelly Mehler's &lt;a href="http://www.kellymehler.com/"&gt;school&lt;/a&gt;,
I admired the fine sharpening set-up he had. People who are serious about woodworking
have permanent sharpening stations, and Kelly's is top notch. One thing I like about
it is the grinders are downstairs with the other nasty smelly machines. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
Anyway, I was thinking about the etiquette of using someone else's sharpening stones.
I'm teaching another class at Kelly's this Fall and a student asked about what chisels
to bring. I told him (Joe) that if you are bringing your own chisels, you should probably
bring your own stones as well. To me, using someone else's stone is like drinking
from their coffee cup. I wasn't sure that was a great analogy so I thought I ask you.
So I have two questions: 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
1) Is it okay to use someone else's sharpening stone? 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
I tried using one of &lt;a href="http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com"&gt;Joel's&lt;/a&gt; once.
He wouldn't let me. Did I mention that Joel was selling stones at the time? Yes, Joel
is a bit quirky, but I think he's right about this one. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
2) If using someone else's stone really is icky, what would be a good analogy? My
coffee cup analogy isn't a good one. If you washed it before and after you use it,
what's the difference if you borrow a cup? 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
The cup in the picture above has a funny story. I've met Roy Underhill several times
at conferences in Williamsburg. He's always mobbed. I mean, he's a real celebrity,
and especially so in Williamsburg. I'm fairly certain he doesn't read my column or
blog and when he sees me, I always introduce myself to remind him of who I am. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
Last year at WiA:Berea, I was fortunate to be pared up with St. Roy in a class on
chisel use. Roy is a real professional. The class went pretty well. The following
day, I was packing up my demo booth and Roy came wandering thr the market place where
my booth was set-up. He had a surprised look on his face when he saw me. He thanked
me for my previous day's efforts, then reached into his pocket and pulled out the
cup in the picture above, complete with remnants of his morning's coffee (there are
always remnants). It's a neat cup and I was thrilled to have it. But that's the point:
Stones are like coffee cups aren't they? Unless you flatten them after each use, you
really are leaving coffee grounds behind for someone else, agree? 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
Adam 
&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;img width="0" height="0" src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/aggbug.ashx?id=9402fa46-d30b-4345-990e-4dfb7bcd2977" /&gt;</description>
      <comments>http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/CommentView,guid,9402fa46-d30b-4345-990e-4dfb7bcd2977.aspx</comments>
    </item>
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      <dc:creator>Adam</dc:creator>
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      <slash:comments>2</slash:comments>
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        <p>
          <img border="0" src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/content/binary/crestrail.jpg" />
          <br />
          <br />
In anticipation of making this chair, I carved several ball and claw feet and several
full legs, including one with the knee returns attached. I'm a firm believer in practice.
But it doesn't always make sense to cheap out. I used basswood, which in retrospect
was a mistake. Bass carves differently than mahogany...different enough that it's
better to use the real thing. 
<br /><br />
When it came time to start construction of the chair, truth is, I still looked at
it as practice. I knew I wasn't going to be satisfied by the results. So I used scrap
mahogany. Some of it (the better stuff) came from the family <a href="http://www.cherubiniyachts.com/">boat
shop</a>. The leg stock was dense and oily and had a beautiful brown color. The rear
legs were stock from a bed my friend Rod sold me years ago. It too was dense and nice. 
<br /><br />
But the rails were just 4/4 scrap from Lord knows where. Light in color and weight,
these pieces carved significantly different from the other pieces. The material felt
weak and deflected under the gouge like pine. I'm fairly certain all of it was the
same species. 
<br /><br />
The really nice thing about mahogany (and very likely the reason for it's popularity
in the 18th c) is that it's easy wood to cut, but it has a crispness to it. It's almost
like cutting dense styrofoam. 
<br /><br />
So I was disappointed with the way this crest rail came out. If I had it to do all
over again, I'd do ALL of my practice with decent quality mahogany. 
<br /><br />
Practice makes you more comfortable in an activity. But not all practice makes perfect. 
<br /><br />
Adam 
</p>
        <img width="0" height="0" src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/aggbug.ashx?id=ce4dc704-5037-420a-84b0-602fbd44cdf6" />
      </body>
      <title>Practice makes....?</title>
      <guid isPermaLink="false">http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/PermaLink,guid,ce4dc704-5037-420a-84b0-602fbd44cdf6.aspx</guid>
      <link>http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/2009/07/16/PracticeMakes.aspx</link>
      <pubDate>Thu, 16 Jul 2009 11:07:51 GMT</pubDate>
      <description>&lt;p&gt;
&lt;img border="0" src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/content/binary/crestrail.jpg"&gt; 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
In anticipation of making this chair, I carved several ball and claw feet and several
full legs, including one with the knee returns attached. I'm a firm believer in practice.
But it doesn't always make sense to cheap out. I used basswood, which in retrospect
was a mistake. Bass carves differently than mahogany...different enough that it's
better to use the real thing. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
When it came time to start construction of the chair, truth is, I still looked at
it as practice. I knew I wasn't going to be satisfied by the results. So I used scrap
mahogany. Some of it (the better stuff) came from the family &lt;a href="http://www.cherubiniyachts.com/"&gt;boat
shop&lt;/a&gt;. The leg stock was dense and oily and had a beautiful brown color. The rear
legs were stock from a bed my friend Rod sold me years ago. It too was dense and nice. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
But the rails were just 4/4 scrap from Lord knows where. Light in color and weight,
these pieces carved significantly different from the other pieces. The material felt
weak and deflected under the gouge like pine. I'm fairly certain all of it was the
same species. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
The really nice thing about mahogany (and very likely the reason for it's popularity
in the 18th c) is that it's easy wood to cut, but it has a crispness to it. It's almost
like cutting dense styrofoam. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
So I was disappointed with the way this crest rail came out. If I had it to do all
over again, I'd do ALL of my practice with decent quality mahogany. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
Practice makes you more comfortable in an activity. But not all practice makes perfect. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
Adam 
&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;img width="0" height="0" src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/aggbug.ashx?id=ce4dc704-5037-420a-84b0-602fbd44cdf6" /&gt;</description>
      <comments>http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/CommentView,guid,ce4dc704-5037-420a-84b0-602fbd44cdf6.aspx</comments>
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      <dc:creator>Adam</dc:creator>
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      <slash:comments>7</slash:comments>
      <title>If it ain't baroque...</title>
      <guid isPermaLink="false">http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/PermaLink,guid,2b6251e4-2c55-45e3-81eb-6915a2f809b9.aspx</guid>
      <link>http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/2009/07/10/IfItAintBaroque.aspx</link>
      <pubDate>Fri, 10 Jul 2009 17:56:41 GMT</pubDate>
      <description>&lt;p&gt;
&lt;img border="0" src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/content/binary/carved leg.jpg"&gt; 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
I've learned alot about baroque carving making this chair. Yes, yes, I know this is
a Rococo carving and Rococo is different from Baroque. But I yes, it's the baroque
aspects of the design that I plugged into. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
I could write a lot about my experience carving; the tools, the stones I shaped to
sharpen the tools, the "flattening" that naturally occurs when one copies a copy,
that copied a copy of a photograph. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
I don't consider this carving wholly successful. And the project as a whole is a nightmare.
But I think I get the relationship between this style and the baroque; the contrast
of light and dark, near and far. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
I also imagined a scene that I'm sure I saw in some Jane Austen movie that really
helped with the Rococo aspects of the design. It's a windswept hill top. A portion
of a classical column has been over grown with vines. Ladies enjoying a picnic have
placed wild flowers tied up with ribbons atop the column. It's rustic, classical,
and natural all on top of each other, intertwined physically and metaphorically. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
Can I just add that I hate this kind of talk. And I typically hate woodworkers who
engage in such talk. They rarely know what they are talking about. It's sales speak
used to exhalt one's self or work or both. But it rarely has the desired effect. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
Yes, I've learned alot carving this chair. Lesson #3026: Be careful about your rhetoric
Adam. And don't be so darned judgemental. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
Because in this case, I think this sort of mental imagery is essential. Whether my
work is good or not is regardless. This is artwork. It requires that we use our imaginations
and link up our hearts, eyes, and hands (yeeck- this is so hard for me. See what I
do for you?). 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
Copy too much, and your artwork will lose it's "life". These carvings have to be bold
and exhuberant. This is the second leg. It's not just like the first. And it's not
just like the original. It's like a column, on a windswept hill.... and no kidding.
I wish there was another way around it guys. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
Adam 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
Fight if you must, and don't let the wife see the box of tissues, but for the good
of your work, you might need to get Emma (Kate Beckinsale version is better imho than
Gwenyth), Sense and Sensibility (Emma Thompson), or Pride and Prejudice (get 6 hour
A&amp;E version) from Netflix. This may be what you need to progress. So important are
these films, I hear Megan is considering having them as required viewing at Woodworking
In America: Chicago! &lt;img width="0" height="0" src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/aggbug.ashx?id=2b6251e4-2c55-45e3-81eb-6915a2f809b9" /&gt;</description>
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      <dc:creator>Adam</dc:creator>
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      <slash:comments>12</slash:comments>
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        <p>
I skipped Pennsbury yesterday and spent the day carving instead. When I began my Chippendale
chair project, I under estimated how much I would enjoy carving. Sounds a little funny
to say out loud (but isn't that what blogs are for?) but I'm surprised I've done as
well as I have. Has that ever happened to you? Maybe that's why I like woodworking.
I have low expectations! 
<br /><br />
Speaking only for myself, I focus on the end product when I work wood. I like the
processes, especially the development of new skills, but often not while I'm in the
learning stage and sometimes not even in the doing stage. It's work that I need to
get done. But a few activities I can think of, woodturning and carving chief among
them, I find really fun. I'm not good at either one. But I enjoy the work and am generally
pleased with the results. 
<br /><br />
We talk a lot about how to do this or that. And there's a general assumption that
the work we do is enjoyable. But obviously not all of it is. If you have a minute,
let me know what aspects of woodworking you find enjoyable. 
<br /><br />
Adam 
</p>
        <img width="0" height="0" src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/aggbug.ashx?id=6a4f5345-13fc-46ed-b067-67e3f6f7bfa6" />
      </body>
      <title>Enjoying woodworking</title>
      <guid isPermaLink="false">http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/PermaLink,guid,6a4f5345-13fc-46ed-b067-67e3f6f7bfa6.aspx</guid>
      <link>http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/2009/07/06/EnjoyingWoodworking.aspx</link>
      <pubDate>Mon, 06 Jul 2009 16:07:22 GMT</pubDate>
      <description>&lt;p&gt;
I skipped Pennsbury yesterday and spent the day carving instead. When I began my Chippendale
chair project, I under estimated how much I would enjoy carving. Sounds a little funny
to say out loud (but isn't that what blogs are for?) but I'm surprised I've done as
well as I have. Has that ever happened to you? Maybe that's why I like woodworking.
I have low expectations! 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
Speaking only for myself, I focus on the end product when I work wood. I like the
processes, especially the development of new skills, but often not while I'm in the
learning stage and sometimes not even in the doing stage. It's work that I need to
get done. But a few activities I can think of, woodturning and carving chief among
them, I find really fun. I'm not good at either one. But I enjoy the work and am generally
pleased with the results. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
We talk a lot about how to do this or that. And there's a general assumption that
the work we do is enjoyable. But obviously not all of it is. If you have a minute,
let me know what aspects of woodworking you find enjoyable. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
Adam 
&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;img width="0" height="0" src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/aggbug.ashx?id=6a4f5345-13fc-46ed-b067-67e3f6f7bfa6" /&gt;</description>
      <comments>http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/CommentView,guid,6a4f5345-13fc-46ed-b067-67e3f6f7bfa6.aspx</comments>
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      <dc:creator>Adam</dc:creator>
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        <p>
          <img border="0" src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/content/binary/Sam_Maloof_rocker_1994.jpg" />
          <br />
          <i>Maloof rocker, courtesy of <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sam_Maloof">Wikipedia</a></i>
        </p>
        <p>
As I am sure you know, our community is marking the passing of Sam Maloof. We are
lesser for the loss of this iconic woodworker. A gifted furniture maker, and teacher,
Maloof was also an inspiration for the integrity of his work, and his life. 
</p>
        <p>
I’ll leave in depth reports and the inevitable retrospectives for those better acquainted
with Maloof’s life and work. Personally, I was always struck by the very humble way
he approached his life’s work. I think there’s a tendency for those who have achieved
a certain level of accomplishment to lose perspective of the overall importance of
their work. I find entertainers particular guilty of this but it can happen to anyone
including furniture makers and woodworking authors. 
</p>
        <p>
Maloof referred to himself only as a “woodworker”. This humble title concealed the
truth of who Maloof was, what he did, and what we must do going forward without him.
Basket weavers, pen turners and cabinetmakers are all woodworkers. So are trim carpenters,
and Welsh stick-chair makers. I don’t see any of these pursuits as particularly similar.
Associating ourselves solely in terms of the material we use is sort of silly don’t
you think? It doesn’t speak to our goals and aspirations. 
</p>
        <p>
I don’t think we admire Maloof chiefly for the way he operated his band saw or his
prowess cutting mortises. Maloof was a furniture artist whose medium was wood. He
clearly expressed his esthetic, while creating usable functional furniture forms.
I think the nexus between fine art and functionality is very difficult to pull off.
Sam Maloof’s life and work will continue to offer us something to shoot for. 
</p>
        <p>
In case you didn’t know, perhaps now is a good time to mention. Popular Woodworking
is hosting a <a href="http://furnituredc.woodworkinginamerica.com/GeneralMenu/">conference </a>near
Chicago that will focus on design. I highly recommend you attend. There are lots of
places to learn about how to sharpen your tools. And I’m not disparaging the usefulness
of the other WiA, which will be held outside Philly. I just think as “woodworkers”
we often focus on the process or the material and lose sight of the art work that
requires perhaps more of our attention. 
</p>
        <p>
Adam 
</p>
        <img width="0" height="0" src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/aggbug.ashx?id=cd9ed1dd-1b30-4a38-b64e-8cbd30368763" />
      </body>
      <title>Sam Maloof, woodworker</title>
      <guid isPermaLink="false">http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/PermaLink,guid,cd9ed1dd-1b30-4a38-b64e-8cbd30368763.aspx</guid>
      <link>http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/2009/05/25/SamMaloofWoodworker.aspx</link>
      <pubDate>Mon, 25 May 2009 15:48:28 GMT</pubDate>
      <description>&lt;p&gt;
&lt;img border="0" src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/content/binary/Sam_Maloof_rocker_1994.jpg"&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;i&gt;Maloof rocker, courtesy of &lt;a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Sam_Maloof"&gt;Wikipedia&lt;/a&gt;&lt;/i&gt; 
&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;
As I am sure you know, our community is marking the passing of Sam Maloof. We are
lesser for the loss of this iconic woodworker. A gifted furniture maker, and teacher,
Maloof was also an inspiration for the integrity of his work, and his life. 
&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;
I’ll leave in depth reports and the inevitable retrospectives for those better acquainted
with Maloof’s life and work. Personally, I was always struck by the very humble way
he approached his life’s work. I think there’s a tendency for those who have achieved
a certain level of accomplishment to lose perspective of the overall importance of
their work. I find entertainers particular guilty of this but it can happen to anyone
including furniture makers and woodworking authors. 
&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;
Maloof referred to himself only as a “woodworker”. This humble title concealed the
truth of who Maloof was, what he did, and what we must do going forward without him.
Basket weavers, pen turners and cabinetmakers are all woodworkers. So are trim carpenters,
and Welsh stick-chair makers. I don’t see any of these pursuits as particularly similar.
Associating ourselves solely in terms of the material we use is sort of silly don’t
you think? It doesn’t speak to our goals and aspirations. 
&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;
I don’t think we admire Maloof chiefly for the way he operated his band saw or his
prowess cutting mortises. Maloof was a furniture artist whose medium was wood. He
clearly expressed his esthetic, while creating usable functional furniture forms.
I think the nexus between fine art and functionality is very difficult to pull off.
Sam Maloof’s life and work will continue to offer us something to shoot for. 
&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;
In case you didn’t know, perhaps now is a good time to mention. Popular Woodworking
is hosting a &lt;a href="http://furnituredc.woodworkinginamerica.com/GeneralMenu/"&gt;conference &lt;/a&gt;near
Chicago that will focus on design. I highly recommend you attend. There are lots of
places to learn about how to sharpen your tools. And I’m not disparaging the usefulness
of the other WiA, which will be held outside Philly. I just think as “woodworkers”
we often focus on the process or the material and lose sight of the art work that
requires perhaps more of our attention. 
&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;
Adam 
&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;img width="0" height="0" src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/aggbug.ashx?id=cd9ed1dd-1b30-4a38-b64e-8cbd30368763" /&gt;</description>
      <comments>http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/CommentView,guid,cd9ed1dd-1b30-4a38-b64e-8cbd30368763.aspx</comments>
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      <dc:creator>Adam</dc:creator>
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      <slash:comments>2</slash:comments>
      <title>Safety Tips from A&amp;M readers</title>
      <guid isPermaLink="false">http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/PermaLink,guid,18448ab7-23ff-4f6e-a1d8-af78f4f3da73.aspx</guid>
      <link>http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/2009/05/10/SafetyTipsFromAMReaders.aspx</link>
      <pubDate>Sun, 10 May 2009 14:30:34 GMT</pubDate>
      <description>&lt;p&gt;
I may be biased, but I think the folks who read and comment on the Arts &amp; Mysteries
blog are some of the smartest folks on the internet. I read and enjoy their many different
views here and elsewhere. So I've collected their wisdom from the previous week's
blogs about Woodworking Safety. Thanks everybody for participating. 
&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;
&lt;b&gt;Sage Advice:&lt;/b&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
From Curt:&lt;br&gt;
If the chisel slips, where's it gonna go?&lt;br&gt;
Chisels do NOT fit in pockets, even if they do. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
From Al:&lt;br&gt;
WHATEVER tool you're using, take a look around to see where its going to go WHEN,
not IF it slips. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
Put a wooden floor in your shop, and you'll be less inclined to try to "kick Save"
that sharp tool when it rolls off the bench (they always land sharp side down in my
shop) Wood floors are also easier on your back/knees/feet. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
Wear eye protection when sharpening with a wheel, hand cranked or not. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;i&gt;Boy I can relate to this last one. I bought a Norton 3x wheel for my woodcraft
slow speed 8” grinder. That wheel makes a huge mess. Forget the fact that it’s easily
an 1-1/2” smaller in diameter than when I bought it 6 months ago. That wheel throw
such a shower of debris. Friability? You bet. Do I like it? I don’t know any more.
You need a Chris Schwarz commemorative shop apron when you use that thing. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
Adam&lt;/i&gt; 
&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;
&lt;b&gt;Hand Tool Shop First Aid Kit Essentials:&lt;/b&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;b&gt; Sprays and Salves&lt;/b&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
From Luke:&lt;br&gt;
My go to cream is &lt;a href=http://www.bulkherbstore.com/Eden-Salve&gt;Eden salve&lt;/a&gt;,
an herbal cream concoction from the Bulk Herb Store. It really is great stuff. The
small tin is all you need. The kids like it too for their scrapes - they can put in
on themselves. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
Also, Cayenne pepper (get the powder) is effective for stopping bleeding - just don't
rub your eyes when you finish putting it on your cut, or the bleeding won't seem so
important for a while! Your mileage may vary on this one with sawed off limbs or severed
arteries. I haven't tested it that way and really have no idea. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
From Steve:&lt;br&gt;
I would recommend keeping a small bottle of Betadine (or generic equivalent) in your
first aid kit. It is good for flushing out deep and/or large wounds, and it doesn't
sting like alcohol. It makes a mess, however, staining everything a yellow-brown.
(It might make a good wood stain--who knows?) 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
From Josh:&lt;br&gt;
If you didn't know honey also makes a decent ointment in a pinch. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
From Steve:&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
I don't use &lt;a hre="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Liquid_bandage"&gt;NuSkin&lt;/a&gt; on cuts,
but I do use it on those annoying (and painful) fingertip cracks that one gets in
cold weather. It works great for sealing/healing those up. There's a new variant from
3M (Nexcare) that's even better, as it dries much more quickly. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;b&gt;Tweezers&lt;/b&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
From Josh:&lt;br&gt;
I have the excellent &lt;a href=” http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com/Merchant/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&amp;Store_Code=toolshop&amp;Product_Code=MS-SPLINT.XX&amp;Category_Code=”&gt;splinter
removal kit &lt;/a&gt;Joel at TFWW sells in my first aid kit. The very sharp probe and tweezers
are very effective at getting even deeply embedded splinters out. It's inaugural use
saved me a trip to the ER to remove what turned out to be a rather nasty 3/8" poplar
splinter that went up under my right thumbnail. That hurt enough that I was happily
confessing to a number of crimes against lumber to the board that was interrogating
me. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
From Dave:&lt;br&gt;
For splinters that don't go very deep, I prefer fingernail clippers over tweezers.
It's easy to get the corner into a shallow hole, and the lever gives you plenty of
grip on the splinter itself. Just remember not to squeeze too hard or you'll just
end up clipping the splinter off. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;b&gt;Other Stuff&lt;/b&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
From Bob:&lt;br&gt;
A portable, sterile eye wash bottle is definately something to strongly consider. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
From Curt&lt;br&gt;
Keep good chocolate in your first aid kit. You'll always know where it is and what's
inside. 
&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;
&lt;b&gt;Deal on Fatigue Mats at Woodcraft&lt;/b&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
From Jon:&lt;br&gt;
About a year ago, I bought 2 &lt;a href=” http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=146033&amp;FamilyID=4762”&gt;anti-fatigue
mats &lt;/a&gt;at Woodcraft. They're 2' x 5' and cost about $15. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;i&gt;I'm looking at these in terms of improving traction and preventing slipping on
floors awash in shavings or saw dust. As such, my recommendation is get these as long
as your bench or longer. But at essentially half price, these are certainly attractive. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
Adam&lt;/i&gt; 
&lt;/p&gt;
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      <dc:creator>Adam</dc:creator>
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                <p>
When you push a plane, you are exerting a force down, against the bench and forward
against the stop. We build our workbenches to react these forces. But those forces
don’t come from thin air. The force you apply toward the stop is reacted in friction
between the soles of your shoes and the floor. The force you press down with is counterbalanced
by your lower back and “core” (more about that tomorrow). If you followed my physics,
you now know what we should have in our shops. But how many of us do? 
</p>
                <b>Bench height:</b>
                <br />
Conventional wisdom suggests a high bench is easier on your back. It saves you from
leaning over. If your bench is used primarily for coffee drinking and client impressing,
then by all means make it bar height and don't forget the curly maple and purple heart.
But if you do a lot of planing, it really makes sense to make your bench low enough
to allow you to use your upper body weight. The exact height depends on the thickness
of your most oft planed stock and the sort of planes you use (wooden or metal). My
bench is 2" under palm height. And I've worked comfortably on benches 4" under palm
height. I really recommend guys think again about the palm-height rule of thumb for
work bench height. 
<p><b>Traction:</b><br />
Guys in powered up shops stand in front of their machines for prolonged periods. Many
wear shoes and have mats to make their work more comfortable. But hand tool users
have different needs. Planing gnarly wood requires a good connection to the floor.
My concrete shop floor gets very slippery with even a fine layer of oily wood saw
dust (I was working Lignum Vitae recently and my shop floor was like a skating rink).
I’ve since added an <a href="http://www.uline.com/BL_1752/Cadillac-Mats?searchedkeywords=cadillac%2520mat">anti-fatigue
mat</a> that has really helped. 
<br /><br /><img border="0" src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/content/binary/sneaker.jpg" /></p><i> Shoes like these can help you stay safe in your woodshop. But they can also get
you shot in some inner cities!</i><p>
Even the skimpy 3/8” thickness makes a huge difference for prolonged periods standing
at the bench, not that I do that often. It’s also less height to trip over. Its sweepable
surface is key to maintaining good traction. I chose a mat as long as my bench and
2’ wide (which is plenty). If I had it to do all over again, I would have chosen a
10’ mat for my 8’ bench with the extra 2’ at the right end. I know there are other,
possibly cheaper mats available and I don’t know anything about them (so please add
your comments). But I like this mat. 
</p><p>
I think it makes sense to wear athletic shoes designed for side to side motions in
the shop. Shoes for tennis or basketball, featuring low flat soles, really make sense
for planing. When working long stock I find I do a fair bit of footwork, walking along
sideways with my plane. The traction that athletic shoes offer also helps when securing
work at the horse. Neither boat shoes nor work boots make sense for this. And in case
you are curious, 18th c leather shoes with heels are absolutely scary to work in. 
</p><p><b>Shop Layout:</b><br />
Moving lumber into and projects out of your shop should be easy, with a minimum of
maneuvers and turns. In my ultimate shop, my wood rack would be on the same wall as
my workbench and the entrance would be at the end of the shop. As my shop is now,
the wood rack is in the center of the shop opposite the workbench. Lumber removed
from the rack must either be swung 180 degrees or I have to do the limbo, ducking
under long boards. This is an ergo no-no. 
</p><p>
In terms of this blog entry, your sharpening station can be anywhere. Focus instead
on ensuring you can move lumber or other heavy items in your shop easily. I pulled
a muscle in my back carrying a heavy flake board kitchen base cabinet from one side
of my shop to the other. I had to duck under the heating ducts while stepping over
something. I could have used a moving dolly, but my floor was too messy and the aisle
too crowded., which brings me to my next point: 
</p><b>Trip Hazards:</b><br />
The splayed legs of my saw horses present trip hazards. I've tripped or hit my shins
on my saw horses' legs countless times. Scrap wood, tools, dollies and other workshop
items all create opportunities for you to fall. Keep your floor clear around your
bench. Clean shops are always nice to work in. In my experience, clean up time is
the first thing I skip when time is short. But that’s probably not smart. Use Woodworking
Safety Week to perform a spring cleaning (I have). Get the scrap wood out from under
your bench and find a spot out of the high traffic areas for your horses. 
<p>
Some folks think of ergonomics in terms of comfy office chairs. We need to think about
ergonomics in terms of safety. Think of your body as a machine and give it every possible
mechanical advantage possible. 
</p>
Adam
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      </body>
      <title>Ergonomics</title>
      <guid isPermaLink="false">http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/PermaLink,guid,ffff7d3f-3fc3-463d-a01e-3bc76abe2c8f.aspx</guid>
      <link>http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/2009/05/08/Ergonomics.aspx</link>
      <pubDate>Fri, 08 May 2009 00:06:30 GMT</pubDate>
      <description>&lt;div&gt;
&lt;div&gt;
&lt;div&gt;
&lt;div&gt;
&lt;p&gt;
When you push a plane, you are exerting a force down, against the bench and forward
against the stop. We build our workbenches to react these forces. But those forces
don’t come from thin air. The force you apply toward the stop is reacted in friction
between the soles of your shoes and the floor. The force you press down with is counterbalanced
by your lower back and “core” (more about that tomorrow). If you followed my physics,
you now know what we should have in our shops. But how many of us do? 
&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;b&gt;Bench height:&lt;/b&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
Conventional wisdom suggests a high bench is easier on your back. It saves you from
leaning over. If your bench is used primarily for coffee drinking and client impressing,
then by all means make it bar height and don't forget the curly maple and purple heart.
But if you do a lot of planing, it really makes sense to make your bench low enough
to allow you to use your upper body weight. The exact height depends on the thickness
of your most oft planed stock and the sort of planes you use (wooden or metal). My
bench is 2" under palm height. And I've worked comfortably on benches 4" under palm
height. I really recommend guys think again about the palm-height rule of thumb for
work bench height. 
&lt;p&gt;
&lt;b&gt;Traction:&lt;/b&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
Guys in powered up shops stand in front of their machines for prolonged periods. Many
wear shoes and have mats to make their work more comfortable. But hand tool users
have different needs. Planing gnarly wood requires a good connection to the floor.
My concrete shop floor gets very slippery with even a fine layer of oily wood saw
dust (I was working Lignum Vitae recently and my shop floor was like a skating rink).
I’ve since added an &lt;a href="http://www.uline.com/BL_1752/Cadillac-Mats?searchedkeywords=cadillac%2520mat"&gt;anti-fatigue
mat&lt;/a&gt; that has really helped. 
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
&lt;img border="0" src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/blog3/content/binary/sneaker.jpg"&gt; 
&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;i&gt; Shoes like these can help you stay safe in your woodshop. But they can also get
you shot in some inner cities!&lt;/i&gt; 
&lt;p&gt;
Even the skimpy 3/8” thickness makes a huge difference for prolonged periods standing
at the bench, not that I do that often. It’s also less height to trip over. Its sweepable
surface is key to maintaining good traction. I chose a mat as long as my bench and
2’ wide (which is plenty). If I had it to do all over again, I would have chosen a
10’ mat for my 8’ bench with the extra 2’ at the right end. I know there are other,
possibly cheaper mats available and I don’t know anything about them (so please add
your comments). But I like this mat. 
&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;
I think it makes sense to wear athletic shoes designed for side to side motions in
the shop. Shoes for tennis or basketball, featuring low flat soles, really make sense
for planing. When working long stock I find I do a fair bit of footwork, walking along
sideways with my plane. The traction that athletic shoes offer also helps when securing
work at the horse. Neither boat shoes nor work boots make sense for this. And in case
you are curious, 18th c leather shoes with heels are absolutely scary to work in. 
&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;
&lt;b&gt;Shop Layout:&lt;/b&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
Moving lumber into and projects out of your shop should be easy, with a minimum of
maneuvers and turns. In my ultimate shop, my wood rack would be on the same wall as
my workbench and the entrance would be at the end of the shop. As my shop is now,
the wood rack is in the center of the shop opposite the workbench. Lumber removed
from the rack must either be swung 180 degrees or I have to do the limbo, ducking
under long boards. This is an ergo no-no. 
&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;
In terms of this blog entry, your sharpening station can be anywhere. Focus instead
on ensuring you can move lumber or other heavy items in your shop easily. I pulled
a muscle in my back carrying a heavy flake board kitchen base cabinet from one side
of my shop to the other. I had to duck under the heating ducts while stepping over
something. I could have used a moving dolly, but my floor was too messy and the aisle
too crowded., which brings me to my next point: 
&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;b&gt;Trip Hazards:&lt;/b&gt;
&lt;br&gt;
The splayed legs of my saw horses present trip hazards. I've tripped or hit my shins
on my saw horses' legs countless times. Scrap wood, tools, dollies and other workshop
items all create opportunities for you to fall. Keep your floor clear around your
bench. Clean shops are always nice to work in. In my experience, clean up time is
the first thing I skip when time is short. But that’s probably not smart. Use Woodworking
Safety Week to perform a spring cleaning (I have). Get the scrap wood out from under
your bench and find a spot out of the high traffic areas for your horses. 
&lt;p&gt;
Some folks think of ergonomics in terms of comfy office chairs. We need to think about
ergonomics in terms of safety. Think of your body as a machine and give it every possible
mechanical advantage possible. 
&lt;/p&gt;
Adam
&lt;/div&gt;
&lt;/div&gt;
&lt;/div&gt;
&lt;/div&gt;
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