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 Monday, June 30, 2008
All Digital Back Issues 50 Percent Off (Plus Free Samples)

You can now download any issue of Popular Woodworking back to late 1999. No more sold-out back issues. Or waiting on the postal service for some project you need today.

To introduce you to this service on our site, we're doing a couple special things: First, this month we're running a special on our web site – 50 percent off all digital downloads when you enter the coupon code PWDD50. So all the back issues that normally cost $6 now cost $3. This special price is available until Aug. 1.

Secondly, if you've never tried reading a magazine digitally, we wanted to give you a small sample of what our downloadable pdfs look like. We think you'll like them. So download your free article, look them over, and then start shopping in our store. You can search for particular articles by browsing our Article Index. Once you find what issue you're looking for you can visit our shopping site to make your purchase.

Here are the free samples:

The Way Wood Works by Nick Engler
This great piece will finally clear up any confusion you might have about flat-sawn, quarter-sawn or rift-sawn lumber. Plus, you'll learn how to calculate how much room to leave for wood movement when building.

WayWoodWorks.pdf (470.44 KB)

10 Tricks for Tight Joints
We canvassed our staff members to find their favorite little workshop tricks for tightening up their joinery. Learn how packing tape can tighten a miter. And how you can clamp any assembly with a biscuit and a pocket screw.

Tricks_Tight_Joints_6p.pdf (1.24 MB)

Handsaws: West vs. East
Have you ever wondered what the difference is between Western saws and Eastern saws? It's not just that one cuts on the push and one cuts on the pull. They are fundamentally different tools with their own sets of plusses and minuses.

Saws_West_vs_East_6p copy.pdf (1.2 MB)

Pdfs are great for many reasons. You can search them. They're portable (take them on your laptop) and you can print the pages you need out and take them to your shop. And they don't take up acres of wall space.

— Christopher Schwarz



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6/30/2008 11:56:18 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [2] 
 Tuesday, June 24, 2008
Jointmaker Pro: Its Origins and Our First Day

Yesterday morning I started getting serious with the Bridge City Jointmaker Pro that John Economaki loaned us for a month. I'm building a quick and dirty prototype of a Frank Lloyd Wright-style table for a future issue and I needed to make a bunch of crisp cuts for the latticework between the legs.

At first I set it up to cut miters on some 5/8" x 5/8" x 5" pieces for a small open square in the middle of the lattice. The first lesson I learned is that you really need the sandpaper-faced fences to hold the work securely. Even with the awesome beveled hold-downs, the work would rise up a bit on the plain poplar fence. Economaki said we would experience this, and he was dead-right. So sandpaper is definitely your friend.


I added some #120-grit sandpaper to the fence, and the thing cuts like a dream now. By way of comparison, I also cut the same miters on our table saw (which felt very dangerous, even with the guard in place), then I made the same cuts with our miter saw. The miter saw did a fairly good job, but there was a lot of rigging to hold the 5"-long pieces in place so that my hands were away from the cut. Also, the cut wasn't as perfect as the ones on the Jointmaker Pro.

Then I made a bunch of straight cuts for the latticework, and that is when I finally got into the rhythm of the machine. One hand was on the sliding table and one hand was on the crank that raises the blade. It's very much like riding a bike. Stroke. Raise the blade. Stroke. Raise the blade. Yesterday I went from: "Herky-jerky" to: "A-ha. Got-it."

The cuts turned out as perfect as I could expect: Dead on, smooth and glass-like. The latticework came together as per plan. However, I'm not happy with the prototype. The legs are too chunky. I think this table is going to look a lot better when I throw it in the dumpster.

Also, Drew DePenning, our associate editor for the web, shot some video last week of Enonomaki discussing how he developed the Jointmaker Pro. We thought it was interesting enough to edit and show you here on the blog. See below.

— Christopher Schwarz



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6/24/2008 8:46:44 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [1] 
 Thursday, June 19, 2008
Jointmaker Pro: A Few Test Cuts

John Economaki from Bridge City Tools is in our shop today before he demonstrates his new Jointmaker Pro saw to about 60 of our readers. As we were setting up the saw we took a few test cuts.

The walnut above is so smooth it's hard to describe. It reflects light. The scratches indicate one stroke with the saw. There is no roughness to the end grain at all. All I could say was, "Wow."

Here are two more photos. First the joint together:

Then the joint apart:

Here's the best part: These are coffee stirring sticks from the Starbucks we stopped at on the way back to the office after a Japanese lunch (yum). And, by the by, these joints were cut by eye – no measuring.

We'll have more photos tomorrow, I'm sure.

— Christopher Schwarz


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6/19/2008 5:08:43 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [3] 
 Tuesday, June 03, 2008
The Cleanest Cut Ever? You Be the Judge

The new Bridge City Tools Jointmaker Pro is probably the most innovative and controversial new hand tool introduced in the last decade. The Jointmaker's sliding table floats over a Japanese sawblade, allowing you to make amazingly smooth, clean and precise cuts.

The internet message boards have been atwitter with the news of the Jointmaker. Some have hailed as the best thing since sliced bubinga. Others have had harsh words for the price or the fact that "it's cheating."

We want you to decide.

We're bringing the tool's inventor, John Economaki, here to our offices in Cincinnati for a free event at 6 p.m. on June 19. We will serve you a free pizza dinner (plus cookies!) and then you'll get to see and hear how the Jointmaker Pro works. You'll also get to try one for yourself.

And if you have been living under a rock for the last few months, here are some links that will help explain this remarkable new device:

A blog entry I wrote on the Jointmaker when it was introduced.
A link to the Bridge City web site.
A link to a video showing it in action.

We'd very much like you to join us, but space is limited to 60 people. Please RSVP to Managing Editor Megan Fitzpatrick at megan.fitzpatrick@fwpubs.com so we can save you a space.

— Christopher Schwarz


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6/3/2008 1:19:17 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [3] 
 Sunday, May 04, 2008
Woodworking Safety Week: My Story and Others

Every once and awhile, I scoot this tusk tenon from out of its mortise, pull off my eyeglasses and press the tenon to my skull. It’s a simple but important reminder of where this all began for me.

Hmmm, before I begin there, let me back up even more.

Safety on most jobsites and in most workshops is job No. 4 – somewhere after the importance of the Makita girl calendar and somewhere before the obligation to clean out the Binks spray gun.

When I began working wood at age 8, I never had a safety lecture. Perhaps it wasn’t as necessary. We didn’t have electricity on our farm so the chances of me dismembering myself with our family’s ultra-dull Craftsman handsaw were rather slim. I’m sure my dad didn’t lie awake at night thinking about all the damage I’d do to myself with the crap-tacular coping saw in my tool tote. Safety just wasn’t as big a deal when you have only hand tools at your disposal. Sure, you can hurt yourself, but it takes some doing.

When I started at Popular Woodworking in 1996, however, it was like being let loose in a candy store after closing time. There were all the machines that my father and I had dreamed of on the farm. Table saws, drill presses, mortisers (that’s plural! Meaning more than one mortiser!) and disc sanders galore.

During this initial love affair with the unspeakable beauty of three-phase power, fellow employee David Thiel and I were assigned to build a couple Gustav Stickley-style tabourets for the magazine. The tabourets had legs that tapered in width and tapered from the floor to the top. Plus they were joined to their stretchers with friction-fit tusk tenons.

Each table has eight of these little tusks, and because we were building two little tables for the article, I had 16 little tusks to cut, chamfer and fit into their mortises.

This was a job for the utterly awesome Wilton disc sander we hand at the time.

As you probably know, the disc sander is a fairly safe machine – as long as you work on the side of the disc that is spinning down against the table. The other side of the disc should be avoided – or you could lose control of your work.

I was merrily sanding away my little chamfers on these tusks when I casually slid over into the “no work” zone to touch up the inside tapered face of the tusk shown above. I lost control of the tenon and it flew up at me.

I wasn’t wearing safety goggles or glasses.

Instead of skewering my eyeball like some sort of k-bob, the tenon struck my skull at the top of my left eyebrow and below the eye. The instant it happened, I turned off the machine and went to the bathroom (luckily I hadn’t soiled myself). The tenon left two red welts on my face.

Since that moment, I have always worn safety equipment (glasses and hearing protection), and I have strived to keep the guarding on all my machines. Come visit us sometime, you’ll find we have a basket guard and splitter on our table saw. Today I noted that the splitter was broken, and so in honor to “safety week,” I’m going to get it fixed.

And then there’s that tusk tenon. The little table has never been my favorite, but I can’t get rid of it. It’s a painful reminder of one of the dumbest things I’ve ever done, and how I’ve become much smarter ever since.

Still to this day, that is the closest call I’ve had in 28 years. Not bad.

Below are some of the other bloggers who have posted stories on their sites about this week. Some are funny, some are serious and some are sad. All are important. Check them out.

• Jeff Skiver: Safely Dealing With Scared Cats

• The Village Carpenter's Top 10 Safety List

• Matt's Basement Workshop on workshop dust

• The Wood Whisperer and Lumberjock's Safety Challenge (This week was all Marc's idea, by the way. Kudos, sir.)

• Stu's Shed's Safety Posts.

• Al Navas and the Carnation flower injury (good post).

Keleo's Workshop kicks off the week with a funny (but also disturbing) clip from MadTV.

Fine Woodworking has posted some good safety videos on shop communication rules and router safety.

• Craig Stevens posted a video for teaching safety to your children, a good chart on the hazards of wood dust and a third post on cleaning up finishes safely.

Check back this week for more stories and important information.

— Christopher Schwarz


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5/4/2008 8:59:10 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [6] 
 Monday, April 28, 2008
First Look: Woodworking in America

This fall, our magazine is sponsoring the first-ever weekend conference devoted to hand tools and learning to use them.

We're calling it the Woodworking in America conference, and we'll be bringing together the country's best hand-tool woodworkers and manufacturers for a symposium in Berea, Ky., on Nov. 14-16.

There will be more than 40 short classes on tools and techniques during the long weekend, plus a marketplace where toolmakers can display (and sell) their wares, social events with the demonstrators and toolmakers and more.

So who is going to be there? Here's the list of people who have agreed to teach seminars during Woodworking in America as of this date (with more to come):

Roy Underhill: Known as "St. Roy" to the legion of fans who watch "The Woodwright's Shop" on PBS, Roy worked at Colonial Williamsburg and then launched his show about traditional hand tools.

Frank Klausz: One of the country's consummate craftsmen, Frank is a professional New Jersey cabinetmaker who trained in Hungary and has a lifetime of experience with the full range of handwork.

Michael Dunbar:
Founder of The Windsor Institute, Michael has single handedly revived the craft of building Windsor chairs, has trained thousands of woodworkers and is a passionate student of the art and history of handcraft.

Adam Cherubini:
The author of Popular Woodworking's popular "Arts & Mysteries" column, Adam is a devoted 18th-century woodworker who builds period pieces using period tools.

James Blauvelt: A Connecticut cabinetmaker, joiner and carpenter, James owns Bluefield Joiners and is a student and teacher of Japanese tools and traditions.

Robin Lee: The president of Lee Valley Tools in Ottawa, Ontario, Robin has been a driving force behind the expansion of the Veritas line of premium handplanes and a caretaker of the company's immense tool collection.

Thomas Lie-Nielsen:
The founder of Lie-Nielsen Toolworks in Warren, Me., Thomas has been making and selling premium traditional hand tools for 27 years. Thomas's company was the trailblazer in reviving many traditional forms of tools that had been lost.

Larry Williams and Don McConnell: Two of the principals behind Clark & Williams in Eureka Springs, Ark., Larry and Don are bottomless wells of information about traditional tools and their workings. Both are accomplished woodworkers, planemakers and tool historians.

John Economaki:
The founder of Bridge City Tool Works in Portland, Ore., John has long been a pioneer in developing new (and very beautiful) forms of hand tools for woodworkers.

Konrad Sauer:
The owner of Sauer & Steiner Toolworks in Ontario, Konrad is one of the leading makers of custom infill handplanes.

Wayne Anderson: Wayne specializes in designing and building custom infill handplanes that are deeply rooted in the past but are each a completely original work of art.

Ron Hock: One of the earliest and most important players in the revival of handtools, Ron makes high-quality replacement plane irons, chipbreakers and marking knives in Ft. Bragg, Calif.

Mike Wenzloff: The founder of Wenzloff & Sons sawmakers in Forest Grove, Ore., Mike is a long-time woodworker and expert in saws and saw sharpening. His premium saw business has exploded in the last two years.

Joel Moskowitz: The founder of Tools for Working Wood and an expert on woodworking history, Joel has recently been making many traditional hand tools, as well as selling them through his catalog and web site. 

Clarence Blanchard: The publisher of "The Fine Tool Journal" and the president of Brown Auction Services, Clarence sees more old tools in a week than most of us see in a lifetime.

Kevin Drake: After studying under James Krenov at the College of the Redwoods, Kevin founded Glen-Drake Toolworks, where he combines woodworking, toolmaking and education. His innovative tools have received numerous awards; we named his Tite-Mark one of the "Best 12 Tools Ever."  

If you are interested in attending, please visit the web site that is dedicated to this conference at WoodworkinginAmerica.com and sign up for the conference's newsletter (the sign-up box is on the top right of the page). You'll then be the first to be notified of when registration will open (it will be before July 1) and the pricing for this event.

Attendance will be limited to a few hundred people (we want to keep the event intimate and manageable), so be sure to register as soon as slots become available. We are expecting the conference to sell out.

There are more announcements and surprises ahead that I cannot share with you right now, so please stay tuned to the blog and the conference's newsletter.

— Christopher Schwarz


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4/28/2008 1:33:31 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [5] 
 Tuesday, April 22, 2008
Popular Woodworking Welcomes 'The Wood Whisperer'

Managing Editor Megan Fitzpatrick grabbed our magazine's digital camera and told Marc "The Wood Whisperer" Spagnuolo to hold still for a photograph.

"I need to take a headshot," she announced.

"So do I," replied Marc, as he lifted up his video camera and pointed it at Megan.

For a few short moments they stood there with their cameras pointed at one another. Then I told them to "take this outside." They did.

On Monday morning, Marc and his wife/business partner/camera operator, Nicole, visited the Popular Woodworking's editorial offices to shoot video footage of us working in the shop and plowing through more than a dozen doughnuts, which Senior Editor Glen Huey brought in.

Marc is the host of the very popular web site thewoodwhisperer.com, which offers scads of free instructional woodworking videos, shop tours, audio programs about woodworking and links to other like-minded woodworking sites.

He's also our newest contributor. Starting in the August 2008 issue, Marc will be writing a column in every issue on a woodworking technique, which we have cleverly titled "The Wood Whisperer." In addition to the written column, Marc will be posting a video on our site at popularwoodworking.com/video that will show that technique in action.

During Marc and Nicole's visit, we forced them to sit through our Monday morning staff meeting (which is really a doughnut-eating contest in disguise), then we headed into the shop to shoot video. After a quick tour of the shop, they interviewed Bob about the project he's working on for the August issue, and they chatted with Glen about his woodworking. Both video pieces should appear on his site in the future (assuming they can get some of the profanity bleeped out).

Glen also shot some video of Marc and Nicole, then we went to my house and shop, where I gave them a tour of some of my personal work and my small workshop.

Most of all, the day was a great excuse to get to know more about Marc and Nicole, who represent the vanguard of where woodworking instruction is headed this century.

Marc, 31, is from Trenton, N.J., and studied biotech in college. After graduation, he headed out to San Diego for work and met Nicole when she answered an advertisement for a roommate to share an apartment. They've been together ever since.

When they moved out to Temecula, Calif., they bought their first house and it needed some work. One table saw and a flooring project later, Marc become hooked on the craft. Well, obsessed might be a better word – that's the word he uses.

His interest in the craft deepened when he encountered David Mark's cable program "Wood Works." Marc eventually studied with Marks in his Santa Rosa, Calif., studio and then opened his own custom woodworking shop in Phoenix, Ariz.

From there, it was short hop to take everything Marc learned – and his enthusiasm for teaching it – to the Internet, where he launched thewoodwhisperer.com.

If you don't know Marc yet, I encourage you to scoot over to his site and take a look at some of the excellent content there. Watch a few videos (they are well done and Marc's a funny guy) and listen to one of his broadcasts of Wood Talk Online with buddy Matt Vanderlist. Or just browse through his blog.

And watch this space for more on The Wood Whisperer. Once we get some of our video edited, we'll post that on our video player.

— Christopher Schwarz


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4/22/2008 10:06:00 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [4] 
 Tuesday, April 01, 2008
The Greatest Woodworking Show on Earth

A few years ago, I attended the Woodworkers Showcase show in Saratoga Springs, N.Y., and I was amazed. It was the most perfect woodworking show I had ever attended. Why? Because of four things.

1. The free classes and seminars were extraordinary. That year I learned more about cold-bending from Jere Osgood and furniture design from Garrett Hack in a single day than I'd learned by reading (too many) books.

2. An amazing display of furniture, turnings and other objects (even a canoe!) that were built by the members of the club who put on the show, the Northeastern Woodworker's Association.

3. Hands-on displays and demonstrations of jigs, fixtures, carving and sash-making that were ongoing the entire weekend.

4. And, of course, booths and booths of vendors selling new equipment and vintage tools.

And amazingly, admission for all this was just $7 for adults.

This year, I was asked to demonstrate at the Woodworkers Showcase – a huge honor – on April 5 and 6. It's this coming weekend at the Saratoga Springs City Center. Click here for information on the event.

I'll be demonstrating the scraper sharpening technique I developed after plumbing the historical record, and I'll be showing off the three kinds of handsaw cuts that I discuss in the newest issue of Woodworking Magazine.

In addition to my demonstrations, you can also catch demos from chip-carver Wayne Barton, box-maker and instructor Doug Stowe (ask him about Sloyd if you see him) and Peter Korn, who runs the Center for Furniture Craftsmanship and is a talented woodworker. Plus, there will be demonstrations from members of the club on every topic imaginable, from marquetry to miniatures to turning to rustic furniture construction.

When I'm not teaching, I'll be in a booth selling a few books, magazines and DVDs. If you're at the show, do stop by and say hello.

If you live anywhere in the northeast, this is a show that shouldn't be missed. People drive from all over the eastern seaboard to attend the Woodworkers Showcase. It's worth it (heck I flew up from Cincinnati when I first attended).

Hope to see you there.

— Christopher Schwarz


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4/1/2008 2:56:11 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [2] 
 Friday, March 07, 2008
A Better Bandage for Bad Situations

We just received a sample of a new product that I am not at all eager to test.

It's a KytoStat Bandage, which is an interesting piece of new medical technology designed to quickly stop bleeding. The pad of the 1" x 4" bandage is made from chitosan, which is a naturally occurring compound found in shrimp shells, according to HemCon, the manufacturer. (People with shellfish allergies can use the product, officials said.)

When the bandage is applied to a bleeding wound, the chitosan attracts red blood cells and pulls them into the dressing. Blood makes the pad extremely sticky, and it then seals the wound.

The bandage has several advantages for use in the woodshop, according to a company spokesman. The KytoStat can eliminate trips to the emergency room for those cases where you are not sure if you need to get stitches or not. Also, if the wound is serious, the KytoStat will stop bleeding so you can get to the emergency room without unnecessary blood loss. Also, the bandage is ideal for woodworkers who are taking daily doses of aspirin or blood-thinning medication.

The KytoStat bandage was developed by HemCon after the company had great success with the same technology in a military bandage that is currently in use in Iraq and Afghanistan. The product was approved by the FDA in 2003 and now is carried by every member of the U.S. Army in Iraq and Afghanistan.

The bandages are available at some Albertsons supermarkets and through drugstore.com. A package of three costs $14.99.

If the product works as advertised, it's a small price to pay to avoid a trip to the emergency room for typical woodshop cuts. The last time I went to the emergency room for a woodshop injury it was for a cut where I was really on the fence about whether I needed stitches. (For the record, I was sharpening a chisel using a student's honing guide. The guide failed to hold the chisel, which slipped out and cut my finger.)

In the end, that wound was less than 3/4" long, but it was difficult to stop the bleeding with simple pressure. Three hours (and three stitches) later, I was back in the shop. My hope is that the KytoStat could prevent drives like this to the urgent care center.

Because we don't have any volunteers here at the magazine to test the product today, however, I'm afraid you'll have to just wait for a field test.

— Christopher Schwarz


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3/7/2008 9:49:44 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [10] 
 Monday, February 25, 2008
The Trouble With Nails

When you take a close look at old furniture you can’t help but notice – and wonder about – the nails that are beaten into the piece with either great care, wacky abandon or both.

My grandmother owned an early 19th-century grandfather clock that I used to puzzle over. The clock was clearly made in a workshop, not a factory. There is evidence of toolmarks all over the piece, from the hand-sawn back boards to the clear toolmarks all over the moulding at the top of the case.

The puzzle is this: While the clock was made with a high level of skill, the casework and moulding are pocked with nails, and the nail holes aren’t filled. The nails have rectangular heads, the heads are black and the iron in the nails has even stained the surrounding wood just a bit.

Were the nails added later on by someone who refinished the clock? Or did the putty somehow come out if the piece was refinished? Or did the maker set the nails and walk away?

What about other antique pieces that have their nail holes filled? Were they filled by the maker? Were they filled by the grime of time or when the piece was refinished? And why is the putty usually as ugly as a booger on the lip of a supermodel?


A nail hole filled with a commercial putty after five years. The wood is cherry that's finished with an aniline dye.

Anyone who has been working wood long enough has struggled with the problem of filling nail holes. You can fill nail holes with color-matched putty, but after a few years, the wood either fades or darkens and the putty starts to stand out like either freckles or pimples on your moulding.

Looking at old pieces offers no firm answers. And looking at old books isn’t especially helpful either. Peter Nicholson’s "The Mechanic's Companion" (1842) discusses filling nail holes during its explanation of brads: "The intention is to drive it within the surface of the wood, by means of a hammer and punch, and fill the cavity flush to the surface with putty."

Nicholson might just be discussing filling nail holes for painted work. In his section on painting, he says that putty is made of whiting (chalk or calcium carbonate) and linseed oil, beaten together. That putty would look a lot like plaster.

Several decades later, Paul Hasluck writes in “The Handyman's Book” that for painted work, you should use putty. For other finishes, “the holes are stopped with beeswax and shellac colored to match the wood.”

Also floating out there is the technique of "blind nailing" your moulding, which is where you use a small gouge to lift up a shaving, drive a headless brad below that and glue the nail back down. It's a clever solution and one we plan on investigating a bit to see how much trouble it is.

Senior editor Glen D. Huey and I have discussed the trouble with nails at great length. We have pored over hundreds of antique examples and photos from auction catalogs for clues. And we both leave our nail holes alone without putty or filler. Why? Because we think it looks better after the piece has seen years of service. I’d rather see an oxidized black dot than a splotch of off-colored putty.

But Glen and I also agree that we don’t have all the answers on this issue. If you’ve stumbled over a historical tidbit of information on filling nail holes, leave us a comment. Likewise, if you know of a putty recipe that darkens (or lightens) as the wood does the same thing, we’d like to hear that, as well. (By the way, I haven’t had much luck with putty made with sanding dust – it doesn’t seem to change color like I hoped.)

— Christopher Schwarz


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2/25/2008 10:32:55 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [12] 
 Wednesday, February 06, 2008
New Company Selling Kits to Build Infill Handplanes

Legacy Planeworks officially opened its doors on Tuesday and began selling kits that allow a home woodworker with no metalworking experience to build an English-style shoulder plane with naval brass sides, a steel sole and an exotic wood infill.

The company currently offers two sizes of shoulder planes – 1" wide and 3/4" wide – with prices starting at $425. And two more infill kits are on the drawing board: a chariot plane and a Norris-style A6 smoothing plane with a mechanical blade adjuster, says Marty Sivar, one of the owners of the company.

The kits have been in development for many months, Sivar says, and the parts are so finely machined that you can literally snap the metal dovetails in place when you take the parts out of the box.

"We wanted to offer a refined kit," Sivar said today in a phone interview, "not something you had to spend hours prepping the parts for assembly and cleaning them up."

The kits come with all the metal components you need (even the drill bits for boring the wood components). The home planemaker will need a ball pien hammer, a steel plate (or anvil) and a handful of files to complete the project, Sivar says. Legacy Planeworks also sells all the files required for planemaking on its web site: legacyplanes.com.

Some woodworkers might remember the kits that were sold by Shepherd Tool, a Canadian company run by two partners outside Toronto. After Shepherd's early success with its first Spiers-style smoothing plane kits, the company ran into some rocky times and shuttered its doors in early 2006 with a crowd of angry customers who were upset about a variety of problems, from not being able to get technical questions answered, kits that were missing parts, and credit cards that were charged with merchandise never shipped.

Sivar was one of those angry customers of Shepherd, and he said he and his partner, Ernie Barber, have set out to make sure that Legacy Planeworks is everything that Shepherd Tool was not.

Sivar says that the company's web site will not sell you a kit unless there are more than two in stock, and that every order will be shipped within two or three days of it being placed. Plus, Sivar says that Legacy now has plenty of kits on hand to sell right away (one of them is heading for our office for a full review, by the way).

The kit components for a Legacy shoulder plane (both photos courtesy of Legacy Planeworks).

Every kit has a money-back guarantee and includes a 52-page instruction manual that includes many step photos that will walk the planemaker through the process. The manual, Sivar says, has taken a long time to develop and has been through many revisions to make the instructions as complete and foolproof as possible.

"I think our customers will be very satisfied from the minute they open the box," Sivar says.

Sivar has experience both as a woodworker and a metalworker. He started his career as a machinist and then went into the military. After a short stint as a corporate pilot, Sivar completed some marketing and management training and went to work for a petro-chemical company, where he is now an area manager and nearing retirement. Barber works in law enforcement and is an accomplished woodworker and carver who specializes in 18th-century furniture.

Sivar says all the plane components are going to be professionally made by other metalworking companies to Legacy's specifications; that will leave Sivar and Barber to focus on working with current customers and developing future products.

Personally, I'm quite pleased to see someone getting back into this business. I built several of the Shepherd kits, including a couple smoothing planes, a chariot plane, a shoulder plane and a panel plane. Despite the glitches (my kits were missing critical parts, too) the overall experience was fun and you learn a lot about plane mechanics by building one of the tools.

I think it's especially encouraging that Legacy has started out offering just the shoulder plane kit. Of all the kits I built, that one was the easiest to complete and will likely give would-be planemakers a good taste of the process.

In the coming weeks, I'll post photos of the new kit and my progress building it.

— Christopher Schwarz


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2/6/2008 12:51:45 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [1] 
 Tuesday, February 05, 2008
Auriou Rasp-makers to Re-open in France

The venerable rasp-making company Auriou plans to reopen its factory in France this summer after being shuttered by a labor dispute, officials said. The closing of the company resulted in a purchasing frenzy of the rasps by woodworkers that continues to this day – one Auriou flat rasp sold for $600 on eBay today.

The new Auriou will be a smaller company that will focus on making tools for the woodworking and stone-working market, according to Mike Hancock of Classic Hand Tools in the United Kingdom. After the factory begins production, there are plans to begin exporting the rasps to the United States, Hancock wrote in an e-mail.

Hancock was part of a small group of investors that purchased the machinery and tooling from the Auriou factory when it was auctioned off. Michel Auriou, who ran the factory, will be the technical and workshop manager for the new company, according to Hancock.

In addition to the machinery and tooling, Hancock's company also purchased a selection of finished rasps and rifflers during the auction that he will be selling beginning on Monday, Feb. 11. To get a list of the tools (mostly rifflers) send an e-mail to sales@classichandtools.co.uk and ask for the "rasps & riffler list."

— Christopher Schwarz


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2/5/2008 9:03:03 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [0] 
 Monday, January 28, 2008
New PVA Glue from The Gorilla Glue Co.

Gorilla Glue will release a new polyvinyl acetate glue this month that is designed to compete directly with the woodworking mainstays, Titebond and ProBond glues. The new Gorilla Wood Glue is a water-resistant species, looks like a white glue and boasts a shorter clamping time than its competitors.

I've been using the glue for a couple months now, and have been generally impressed with both the glue and the bottle, which is an often-overlooked detail.

Here are some of the important stats on the glue:

• It is called a "Type II" adhesive, which means it's water-resistant, but not waterproof. Build kitchen cabinets from it, but not a dock at the lake.
• It has a stated clamping time of 20 minutes, which is 10 minutes less than the competition. If you are in a hurry or in a professional environment, this can be a big plus. We like to keep our assemblies in the clamps as long as possible.
• The color of the Gorilla Wood Glue is white, which is nice when dealing with gluing light-colored woods.
• The viscosity is about the same as its water-resistant competition.
• The glue nozzle is almost identical to that on Titebond's product. We're fond of this nozzle because it will stay clear of dried glue for a long time (if you remember to close the nozzle after each use).
• The glue will be available in 8 oz. (expect a retail price of $3.99) and 18 oz. (about $5.99) sizes.

After some small-scale tests in December, I used the Gorilla Glue last week on five maple panels I am gluing up for a blanket chest project. The glue lays out nicely like a quality PVA should. It cleaned up easily with water and set up fairly fast – this is a big asset when gluing up lots of panels.

When it dried, it was more like a light khaki color, instead of the familiar darker yellow we're used to from PVAs. The glue line just disappeared in the maple. The Gorilla Wood Glue is now quite welcome in our shop here at Popular Woodworking, where we will be testing it during the long term.

— Christopher Schwarz


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1/28/2008 12:58:15 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [10] 
New Jacobs Chucks a Nice Upgrade for Cordless Drills

Like most woodworkers, we here at Popular Woodworking are fond of our cordless drill/drivers. So when two officials from Jacobs Chuck Manufacturing Co. showed up in our offices last week to show off a new aftermarket keyless chuck, they had our complete attention.

And it didn't hurt that the Jacobs officials also turned their little demonstration into a contest among the editors. First a bit about the new SoftGrip chucks, then I'll tell you about the contest.

The SoftGrip chuck replaces your stock chuck on your cordless drill, no matter if it's a 3/8" or 1/2" chuck, single-sleeve or double-sleeve. There are a number of advantages to the SoftGrip that are both obvious and unexpected.

The chuck is noticeably easier to close than a hard metal or smooth plastic chuck. And that's thanks to its soft, nubby, almost gummy-worm-like feel. You can really get a grip on the chuck to close it on the bit, which is great for anyone who suffers from arthritis or anything else that reduces his or her grip.

The soft grip isn’t just something molded onto the outside of the chuck. It's integrated into the structure of the chuck using a proprietary double-injection molding process, according to Mike Goodson, the core products development manager for Jacobs.

What that means for you and me is that the soft surface isn't going to peel off in use.

The SoftGrip can be lighter in weight than your stock chuck. For example, our stock Makita chuck weighs 9.2 ounces and the SoftGrip 3000 series chuck for that drill weighs 5.6 ounces. That weight difference is noticeable when you hold the drill and can also increase your drill's run-time by about 10 percent, according to James Hou, the product marketing manager.

However, the weight savings are mostly in the SoftGrip 3000 series of chucks, which uses more aluminum in its construction. The industrial version of the SoftGrip, the 6000 series, has more steel in its construction, which of course adds weight. Our stock Hitachi chuck weighs 9.3 ounces. The SoftGrip 6000 replacement weighs 10.2 ounces.

The only other consideration with the SoftGrip is that you have to get your old chuck off. Sometimes this is easy, and sometimes it is not, as I found out as I replaced the chucks on several drills. Here's the drill (sorry 'bout that): Remove the screw inside the chuck that secures it to the drill motor. It's a reverse-thread screw, so it's righty-loosey. Then you chuck a large Allen wrench into the jaws of the drill and knock the Allen wrench with a hammer to spin the chuck counterclockwise. This loosens the chuck and you then unscrew it off. Adding the SoftGrip is even easier (instructions are included).


Clamping the drill to the bench made it much easier for one editor to remove the chuck.

I had no problems replacing the chuck on our Milwaukee and Hitachi drills. Our Makitas gave us a little bit of a fight, but after a few love taps the chuck came loose. But the Ridgid drill simply refused. Everyone tried it last week (we even fetched former Senior Editor David Thiel – a brute – to try it). This morning Senior Editor Robert W. Lang and I gave it another try.

We got the chuck off, along with the drill's clutch assembly, spilling ball bearings everywhere. Not good. Perhaps our chuck was torqued on by a particularly sprightly robot. Who knows? So do take care when removing your chuck.

Now about that contest: The Jacobs officials had each editor tighten a stock chuck and measured how much input torque he or she managed to apply to the chuck. Then each editor did the same test with a SoftGrip chuck and measured the input torque, which was much higher. That means the SoftGrip gives you a better grip for the same amount of work. Here are the before-and-after numbers – though I've changed the names to protect the editors' identities:

1. Editor with Ponytail: Stock chuck: 83.7 in./lbs.   SoftGrip: 88 in./lbs.
2. Editor with Gloves On: Stock chuck: 83.1 in./lbs.   SoftGrip: 175.2 in./lbs.
3. Editor with Fiery Hair and Temper: Stock chuck: 47 in./lbs.   SoftGrip: 69.4 in./lbs.
4. Editor with "Little Girl Hands:" Stock chuck: 89.5 in./lbs.   SoftGrip: 176.1 in./lbs.

Bottom line: We like these chucks and are now testing them for durability in the shop. The chucks are now available from Home Depot and Lowe's for about $25 to $32, depending on the model.

— Christopher Schwarz


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1/28/2008 11:06:32 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [19] 
 Saturday, January 19, 2008
New Podcast on ‘Workbenches’ at Woodworkers Resource

If you aren’t yet completely saturated with information on workbenches, then get comfortable and read on. Craig Stevens at the Woodworkers Resource has just released an hour-long interview of me about my book, my work at the magazine and the craft in general.

The interview is in mp3 format (it’s about 55mb) and can be streamed from most internet browsers. You can even save it to your hard drive and load it on an iPod. You can read more about the interview and start streaming it here – but be sure to check out the rest of the excellent site, which includes video, Craig’s blog, a newsletter and an eBook of strategies for teaching woodworking to kids.

Craig conducted the interview on Jan. 13 while I was in my shop working some frustrating bookcases made from sub-standard plywood (that long national nightmare is almost at an end, by the way). During our chat we discussed:

• How I got interested (read: freakishly obsessed) with the topic of workbenches.
• What a typical workday is like at Popular Woodworking and Woodworking Magazine.
• My favorite workbench (which doesn’t exist as of yet).
• The types of furniture and projects I build at home.
• A little bit about the future of my Lost Art Press web site.

Craig did a great job with the interview and kept it casual yet highly focused (I have a tendency to blather; just ask my kids). So thanks to Craig and I hope you like the interview.

— Christopher Schwarz


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1/19/2008 10:21:46 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [3] 
 Friday, January 11, 2008
Won't the Shaker Firewood Box Explode?

Reader John Griffin-Wiesner writes: Just got the new Popular Woodworking issue yesterday (February 2008). Another fine issue!

I am confounded by the Shaker wood box. How are the front and back panels supposed to move being nailed to the sides which have the grain running vertically?

Answer: Great question. The answer is: nails.

Lots of earlier furniture appears to be nailed without regard for wood movement, yet it survives to this day intact. In fact, when I visited Pleasant Hill to find a good design for a wood box (I saw about 10 of them), all of them were:

1. Still in good shape without signs of repair or restoration.

2. Nailed together without regard to cross-grain.

Unlike screws, nails will bend a bit as the wood expands and contracts with the seasons. There are limits, of course. And I always prefer to create constructions that accommodate wood movement rather than rely on nails. (By the way, just about any kind of nail will do. I like cut nails, but the wire nails bend easily, too.)

But they work. I've seen it too many times in too many pieces of antique furniture to dismiss it. You can download the entire article on building the Shaker Firewood Box using the link below. You also can read more about my visit to Pleasant Hill on the Woodworking Magazine blog here.

030-31_FEB08PW_ICDT.pdf (280.35 KB)

Christopher Schwarz


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1/11/2008 10:45:44 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [6] 
 Wednesday, January 02, 2008
Tool Test: Wooden Miter Plane from Philly Planes

Vintage wooden-bodied miter planes are fairly rare birds (at least in the Midwest), so I was quite eager to try a new one made by Philip Edwards in England.

While I'm well-versed in metal-bodied miter planes, I had to educate myself a bit on the history of the wooden ones before putting Edward's plane to use in the Popular Woodworking shop.

John M. Whelan's seminal book "The Wooden Plane" (Astragal Press) says that miter planes appeared in tool catalogs for about 100 years, starting in 1826. There are two major variations: an English tool with the iron bedded with the bevel facing up – like a metal-bodied miter plane. And an American version with the iron bedded with the bevel down.

Edward's miter plane is mostly in the American style. The massive 1/4"-thick cutter is bedded at 38° with the bevel facing down, like a traditional bench plane. The miter plane's iron is secured with a simple wedge and does not have a cap iron, sometimes called a chipbreaker.

This turns out to be a good arrangement. Because the bevel is facing down in this tool, there isn't much of the wooden sole supporting the blade up by the tool's cutting edge. So the thick cutter is a must to prevent blade chatter.

However, the plane does have a bit of English in it. Edwards added a strip of dense end grain directly in front of the mouth of the tool – an English feature, according to Whelan. Because of the way miter planes are used, this is an excellent detail.

Miter planes can be used for a wide variety of chores – not just for trimming the short grain of a miter. The block-like shape of the tool allows it to be used on a shooting board for trimming end grain. Also, the plane serves as an excellent large-scale block plane – it's excellent for trimming the long-grain edges of boards. And the tool's 10"-long sole helps ensure your edges stay straight.

All in all, the plane is quite well-made. The wedge and the wooden body (called the "stock") are goncalo alves, a fairly dense tropical hardwood. The corners of the tool have handsome wide chamfers, like many early wooden-bodied planes. And the plane weighs in at 2 lbs. 12 oz., which gives it the kind of mass I like in a plane designed for a shooting board.  

As far as fit and finish go, it is a quality tool, though not as refined as a plane from Clark & Williams in Eureka Springs, Ark. Nor does the Edward's plane have the same price tag. Edwards charges 85 pounds Sterling for the tool (with the sorry state of the U.S. dollar these days, that's about $170, a good price for a tool of this quality).

My only difficulty with the plane came while I set it up. The wooden stock had moved during its trip across the Atlantic and the sole needed to be trued up. A few minutes on a sheet of sandpaper adhered to some granite and the tool was ready to go. Truing the sole of any of these tools will tend to open up the mouth of the tool, and the mouth on the tester went from infinitesimally small to about 1/64", which is still a very tight mouth.

For now, Edwards is a part-time planemaker. His day job is carpentry – fitting kitchens, hanging doors and the like. Edwards also has been writing articles for British woodworking magazines (Good Woodworking and The Woodworker) and plans to become a full-time planemaker in 2008. His web site – PhillyPlanes.co.uk – already offers a variety of wooden planes and accessories, including a sweet mini panel-raising plane that I reviewed in the February 2008 issue of Popular Woodworking.

Both of these tools are excellent workers, and I recommend them without any reservations. If these tools are any indication, I think Edwards is going to succeed in his new venture.

— Christopher Schwarz


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1/2/2008 3:32:27 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [3] 
 Tuesday, December 18, 2007
Tool Test: Veritas Small Plow Plane

Plow planes are workhorse of the hand-tool shop when it comes to cutting joints with a plane. With a plow plane you can, if you are so inclined, cut many of the important joints for a carcase: rabbets, grooves and even tongues.

Before electric power tools became affordable, plow planes were even a status symbol among craftsmen. If there was one fancy tool with ivory inlay and nickel silver tips in your chest, it was your plow.

Since World War II, plow planes have all but vanished from tool catalogs – their functions being taken up by routers and table saws. But now Veritas, the manufacturing arm of Lee Valley Tools, has revived this important form. And I think that anyone who gives this tool a try will get hooked on how easy it is to use, how crisp the results are and how fast you can make simple joints.

The Veritas version of this tool improves on many of the details of the old tools (both the metal and wooden versions) that have vexed woodworkers for generations. Let’s start with the fence, which is the heart of the plow.

To make a straight groove, the fence must be locked parallel to the skate – the thin rail of iron that’s the plane’s sole. All vintage plows I’ve worked with require fussing to get the fence parallel. The Veritas makes it almost impossible to skew the fence, and you can thank router technology for that. Veritas uses, in essence, router collets to lock the fence in place. And the collets work quite well.

Another improvement is the fence itself. Wooden plows eject shavings onto the bench (nice). But vintage metal plows eject them into your fence and hand. This means that you have to clear that trap every few passes. Veritas improved the way shavings eject. And though it’s not a jam-free set-up, you do have to clear the tool of curls far less than usual.

The third major improvement is in the controls themselves. Everything adjusts through knurled knobs – no tools are required. Metal plows require at least one screwdriver. Wooden plows require a mallet to adjust.

The Veritas comes with a 1⁄4" cutter (the most useful size) in durable A2 steel. Four other sizes are available from 1⁄8" to 3⁄8". The plane body is lightweight at 1 lb. 14 oz. and is made from unbreakable ductile iron. The plane costs $199 with a 1/4" cutter. Additional cutters are available individually or in a set. The plane is available only through Lee Valley Tools.

In use, I found the tool superior to my old plows. Everything locks with hand pressure, and the tool balances on the work. The fence has a large bearing surface so you can keep it firmly against your work, a critical point (and the fence is bored to accept a longer wooden fence if you require it). The workmanship on the tool is top-notch.

Here’s the best part: This is the Veritas Small Plow. With a name like that, you have to think that other versions are on the way.

— Christopher Schwarz


Made for joinery. Here you can see how the fence is relieved so you can close it up to cut rabbets. Also note the slight curved shape of the depth stop. This prevents the stop from ramming into your work.


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12/18/2007 8:03:14 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [2] 
 Monday, December 03, 2007
New Class: All About Hand Tools with Christopher Schwarz

For 2008, there is only one place that I’m teaching a class that covers planes, chisels and saws. And that’s the Marc Adams School of Woodworking from May 19-23. Registration for this (and all the classes) opened today. As of now, there are still spaces available in the class.

In this fast-paced course you'll learn everything a woodworker needs to sharpen, tune and use handplanes, chisels, scrapers and the wide arsenal of edge tools available today. This class is for anyone who has ever been curious, frustrated or intimidated by hand work. It begins with the absolute basic principles of cutting wood and ends (after only five days) with you knowing how to make essential furniture joints using hand tools and building a traditional English sawbench. Here's what you'll learn:

Sharpening: Even if you've never sharpened anything before, you'll learn to put a keen edge on any tool – chisel, knife, plane blade, scraper – without spending hundreds of dollars on equipment. You'll learn all about edge geometry and how to pick the right angle for a tool every time, plus the little tricks that aren't in the books (back bevels and triple micro-bevels).

Tune-up: With your edges sharp, you'll fine-tune and modify your hand tools so they behave predictably and beautifully. You'll tune your planes to do the job they were intended to do, without spending hours and hours ridiculously lapping their soles. You'll learn the real working differences between the traditional bevel-down planes and the newer bevel-up planes and get a chance to try both to compare for yourself. You'll learn a 100-year-old trick for modifying your card scrapers that has been almost – but not quite – forgotten. And you'll learn to modify the grips of your tools to suit your work, your workbench and your hand size.

Use: Once all your tools are properly sharp and tuned, you'll discover how they work almost effortlessly if you understand just a few principles, including how to properly read the grain of any board and that not all tools are intended to be used "with the grain."

You’ll also learn a good deal about the tools needed for handwork, including:

1. The three bench planes needed to make any board flat, plus how to tune them and use them.

2. The joinery planes that every woodworker should own.

3. The four handsaws necessary to hand-cut any furniture joint, from dovetails to dados.

4. The chisels needed for good woodworking, all about good bevel-edge chisels, mortising chisels and paring chisels.

Application: On the final day of the class you'll put your new skills and knowledge to the test to build an English sawbench, one of the most useful hand-tool appliances ever invented.

This week-long class is great for beginning and intermediate hand-tool woodworkers alike.

— Christopher Schwarz


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12/3/2007 1:31:24 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [0] 
 Monday, November 12, 2007
About that Article on Shoe Polish...

Several readers have called us a bit confused about the coverline on the new December 2007 issue that proclaims: "Shoe Polish: The Secret to an 18th-Century Finish."

They cannot find the article in the issue.

It's there. The problem is that we were too clever (or obscure) for our own good. It happens sometimes in the magazine business, and we apologize for the confusion.

The coverline is about Adam Cherubini's Arts & Mysteries column that appears on page 24 of the issue titled: "The Standing Desk, Finished." In the article, Adam details how he finished his desk with paint, oil wax and shoe polish.

The shoe polished was used much like a glaze: Adam rubbed it on and then rubbed it off of the broad surfaces and left some polish behind to collect in the recesses of the mouldings and other details.

"This won't fool anyone into thinking the desk is an antique," Cherubini writes, "but it will remove the shocking newness of the piece."

Sorry if we threw you for a loop.

-- Christopher Schwarz


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11/12/2007 3:02:42 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [1] 
 Wednesday, October 31, 2007
Workbenches Book: Printed and Shipping Soon

Shipping begins very soon for my new book "Workbenches: From Design & Theory to Construction & Use" (Popular Woodworking Books). The book has arrived in our warehouse from the printer and will be shipping out soon to bookstores and specialty retailers during the next two weeks.

The book features plans for two old-school workbenches (a French and an English bench), but those aren't the core of the book in my opinion. The central idea in this book is that there is no such thing as a perfect workbench – there are hundreds of them.