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 Friday, May 09, 2008
SKIL Benchtop Tools and NASCAR
 Last Thursday evening after a regular workday, I jumped on a plane to Charlotte, N.C., to attend a SKIL Tools media event. The event centered on a new line of SKIL benchtop tools. Lowe’s and SKIL have partnered to produce and distribute a new line of tools for the up-and-coming woodworker. All the tools are entry-level tools – although I could see a couple of these tools hanging around a shop as experience grows.
So what are the tools? Here you go. New to the market and expected to be in stores by September ’08 are a 10" table saw (3305-01), a 10" benchtop drill press (3320-01), a 10" compound miter saw (3315-01) and a 9" band saw (3385-01) that has a 2.5-amp motor with two speed settings and a fully adjustable, tilting table (there’s also a work light that didn’t quite reach around to the front of the blade – where you need it – and a laser that I find all-but-useless on a band saw). There’s a universal miter saw stand (3300MS) that accommodates most compound saws up to 12" and most sliding compound miter saws up to 10" (quick-fit mounting brackets make it a snap to install your miter saw on the stand, or lift the saw off for easy movement), a combination belt and disc sander (3375-01) that uses a 4" x 36" belt and 6" disc and has an easy-to-move table for making use of either setup, a 10" scroll saw (3335-01) with a 16" deep throat and electronic variable speed control and finally as well as a 6" bench grinder (3380-01) with two wheels – coarse and medium – and eye shields with built-in LED lighting. Each of these tools are expected to be priced at $99 while the grinder is slated at $40.
The table saw has a cast aluminum tabletop, a 15-amp motor and comes complete with a heavy-duty stand. There’s a self-aligning fence, a lockable on/off switch and all the accessories attach to the base of the saw. I used this saw to rip stock for a project built during the event and it did just fine. No, it’s not a Powermatic 66. It’s not supposed to be. But at this price, you just might want to have a SKIL table saw in your shop for a quick cut or special circumstances.
The benchtop drill press has five speed settings, a keyed 1/2" chuck and a battery-operated, two-beam laser that projects an “X” for accurate drill locations. I don’t know about you, but the drill press is a little-used tool in my shop. I’ve gone years with a radial drill press. I’ve seen no need for a floor-model tool. In my opinion, this drill press could handle most of the tasks I would ask of it.
SKIL’s 10" compound miter saw has a few interesting features. I like the table extensions (shown in the photo). The extensions slide along a rail for multiple positions, then lock with a simple twist knob at the back. The entire rail can be set to either side of the saw depending on your work. In addition, this miter saw has a dual lock-off switch that allows smooth operation whether you’re a righty or a lefty. A 15-amp motor has no trouble spinning an included carbide tooth blade. And, safety is covered with this saw. When fully engaged in a cut, the blade guard never opens past a 5 o’clock position. This greatly reduces your exposure to the blade. This is another tool I expect could be used well into a woodworking career.
Once these tools are released, we’ll get a chance to put them through the tests and see how they stand up to the competition and how they work in the shop. For a quick look at the tools, click the SKIL Tool's link below. And if you’re interested in additional information about the tools, click on the “About the Tools” file below.
How does NASCAR fit into this entry? As a bonus for attending their event, SKIL set up an afternoon at Lowe’s Motor Speedway for a ride-along with the Richard Petty Driving Experience. (Did I tell you how much I like this job?)
Each of us had an opportunity to take a few laps around the track reaching 165 mph. I wasn’t awed by the speed on the straight, but when you dip into the corner you feel the force. And there was no need to worry about sliding around in the car. First of all, those drivers must be a bit smaller around the mid-section than me because I barely squeezed into the seat. Then there are the safety precautions. Attached to me were more belts, clips and buckles than there are at a leather-goods facility.
The time was short, but I had a blast. If you’re in the area and haven’t done a ride-along, or if you’re planning a visit to Charlotte, give it a try. I guarantee you’ll be smiling as you exit the cars – we all did. And they pay me to do this.
About the Tools.pdf (107.98 KB)
Read other entries by Glen D. Huey
5/9/2008 1:49:28 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00) 
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Wednesday, April 30, 2008
Challenges & Dovetails: Closet-Cleaning Day
Design a Bookcase Challenge
 The LumberJocks and Popular Woodworking partnership to design, build and publish a winning bookcase has come to a close, and a winning entry has been selected. I must say this turned into a difficult task for the magazine editors. We didn’t come to fist-to-cuffs. It wasn’t a knockdown, drag-out, office-clearing brawl. But, each editor brought to the table their favorites to have them applauded or shot down, one by one.
Slowly we weeded through the entries and narrowed the field to three. Those three are:
Ryan Shervill’s "Shoji Screen Inspired Bookcase", Daniel’s (Blackdog Workshop) "A&C Bookcase with Magazine Drawers" and Charlie’s (Wheresmytools) "Sliding Dovetails Bookcase".
After kicking around what we would do with the designs if we were to build them, we reached a consensus with Shervill’s design. I look forward to seeing the process of bringing this design to the pages of Popular Woodworking magazine. I think we’ll see many bookcases built from this design. (Click here to read the LumberJocks announcement.)
Antique Dovetails
On April 15th I posted an entry titled, "My Take On Dovetail Angles." (Interestingly, I wrote about a taxing subject for many woodworkers on Tax Day.) In the entry I state, “Don’t accept the traditional ratios. I’ll bet a study of furniture and drawer construction from the 1700s through today would turn up many different dovetail angles.”
This past week, while traveling to Frank’s Cabinet Shop – where Frank Klausz does his woodworking – I took a side trip to C. L. Prickett’s antique shop. The folks at Prickett’s shop graciously granted me permission to photograph many of the drawer dovetails on pieces in their inventory.
I hope, as you look at the photos, two revelations come to mind. The first is that the angles are not strictly set at a traditional slope, so feel free to angle those pins and tails as you see fit. And second, notice the quality of craftsmanship – it’s not that great.
It’s easy to notice a good set of fine dovetails. Look at what you consider the best drawer joint, then look at the worst joint. There is much variation. But take heart, none of the dovetails were on pieces with price tags of less than $80,000.
The lesson is always the same. A finely fitted dovetail joint on a shabbily built, poor design doesn’t make the piece better. I would rather see average dovetails on a great design, built with better craftsmanship.
As far as the trip to see Mr. Klausz, we’re going to give you a look inside his shop and we’ve got video showing him in action as he demonstrates a few techniques for an upcoming article. Hang tight, I'll let you know when it's available.
– Glen D. Huey
Read other entries by Glen D. Huey
4/30/2008 11:52:55 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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Tuesday, April 22, 2008
"Flexner on Finishing" Live
When the topic is finishing, Popular Woodworking magazine turns to Bob Flexner for answers. We believe he is the foremost expert when it comes to anything from alkyd-based varnish to using Xylene as a solvent and thinner. We might be biased because he writes our "Flexner on Finishing" columns found in nearly every issue for the past decade, but the fact that Bob writes for many other publications reaffirms our belief.
Bob also teaches classes throughout the country. A few weeks back he was at the Marc Adams School of Woodworking to teach a two-day seminar on finishing. Then, while so close to Cincinnati, Bob accepted an invitation to present a similar class to the Cincinnati Woodworking Club and that seminar was hosted at the Popular Woodworking office and shop. Luckily, I was on hand for the Sunday session and I quickly decided that I wish I'd been available for Saturday’s portion as well.
If I had attended both days, I expect I would have had the same look that many of the participants had when they left late in the afternoon on the second day. Due to his vast knowledge on finishing and his willingness to pass information on to others, he shares so much in his seminars that there's a lot of stuff to digest.
Facts such as how to properly clean a brush. Simple right? I thought I knew what to do, too. But, Bob quickly had me understanding I didn't know the secret. He had a few brushes that he passed around that, after many cleanings, were as soft and usable as they were when purchased quite a few years back. The secret, according to Bob, is to complete the cleanup with soap and water and repeat until you get a good suds. That’s the final step no matter what finish was applied with your brush. I have to admit, I’ve never washed my brush with soap and water. And, I cannot tell you the times I’ve returned to a brush weeks later and had to bend and twist the bristles to be able to use the brush a second time.
Another tidbit I scooped up about brush cleaning dealt with shellac. As you may know, I’m a fan of shellac. I like the quick drying time of shellac as well as the replication of what I consider a period-type finish. And while I spray most of my finishes, I do occasionally dip some bristles into shellac. For me, cleaning shellac from my brush was a matter of dredging the brush through a number of cups of fresh alcohol until I felt the shellac was removed. If you think about that process, I was (as Bob pointed out) simply thinning the shellac with each rinsing, hopefully reaching a point when the shellac was gone. I wouldn’t know if I needed to twist the bristles or not until the brush dried.
Bob’s solution is to wash the shellac brush with a 50/50 mixture of household ammonia and water. Ammonia breaks down the shellac. Then finish with soap and water (look for suds). There’s an idea I had never heard before, but I will undoubtedly try the next time I need to clean shellac from my brush.
These are but a few of the tips picked up during the seminar. Bob also spent time explaining French polish. I filmed a majority of his presentation on French polish and I hope to add that to our video pages in the next few weeks. If you have any interest in French polish, don’t miss it.
And if you have an opportunity to catch one of Bob's seminars, I highly suggest you do so. Go prepared to process a huge amount of finishing information, take great notes and stay sharp because I know you’ll gather in some tidbit that improves your finishing abilities. I sure did.
And if you cannot locate his seminar somewhere close to you, his book, "Understanding Wood Finishing" (Peachtree Woodworking) covers many of the topics and is invaluable as you begin finishing pieces with something more than wipe-on oil.
Got any tips to share or questions about finishing, post you comments or concerns and we’ll see if others can benefit from your shared knowledge or help get you answers. Or, I’ll thumb through Bob’s book – I’ll bet he has the topic covered within the pages. –Glen D. Huey
p.s. We also have a lot of Bob's Popular Woodworking articles available for free on our site's Finishing Page.
Read other entries by Glen D. Huey
4/22/2008 3:34:01 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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Friday, April 18, 2008
Tool Test: Mortise Pal
While surfing around the woodworking sites, I found mention of this jig for cutting mortises. It’s a Mortise Pal (mortisepal.com). If you have a plunge router (weighing less than 12 pounds), a 5/8" outside-diameter bushing and an upcut router bit, you can create mortises for mortise-and-tenon joints and loose-tenon joinery using a Mortise Pal.
To use a Mortise Pal you need a 6" base on your router. If you use a smaller base, due to the jig’s design, the base could slip off one side resulting in a bad mortise (the router rides on top of the side supports). Also, pay attention if your router’s base is something other than round. As for weight, 12 pounds pretty much restricts you to a 2-1/4 hp router or smaller, so don’t try to hoist up that 3+hp hog and cut mortises.
And of course, an upcut router bit is best because it pulls waste from the mortise and the cut will be easier to make, and cleaner when finished.
Any stock in which you want to cut a mortise in the end can be a minimum of 1" in width. Stock thickness can be from 2" to 3/4" (you can mortise thinner stock by arranging shims as shown in the manual, which you can download off the web site or below). The mortise length is determined by the mortising templates (four sizes are included in the kit) and the router bit size (a maximum 1/2" due to what fits through the bushing). Changing the templates is a snap and locking them into position is both secure and reliable with each change.
Layouts for mortises you cut with the Mortise Pal are different from the method most of us are accustomed to using. For this tool, find the center of your desired mortise along both length and width, then use the engraved line and small pointer on the jig to set up the cut. Once you’ve dialed into your lines, lock the brass thumbscrew, twist the lock knob to secure and you’re ready to work. (To watch a Mortise Pal in action, click here.)
I don’t cut mortises with a router most times; I have a mortise machine for that task. But, if you don’t have a dedicated mortise tool, a Mortise Pal is a good choice. (Hand-tool Neanderthals take a breath, please.) One area that always bothered me when building furniture was when I mitered a base frame on a chest of drawers or other case piece. I often chose to use a biscuit joiner for the connection. Because the Mortise Pal fits the workpiece, especially if the piece is mitered, I see using the Mortise Pal there for a simple loose tenon connection, resulting in a strong joint.
Bottom line: the Mortise Pal is well-machined tool that works. I think it’s a bit pricy at $189, but the Mortise Pal has CNC machined anodized aluminum parts along with stainless steel parts, and the templates are polycarbonate. In my opinion, there was no skimping on manufacturing. Also, if you buy a dedicated mortise machine, you’ll spend more and not have the mobility or range of uses you have with this tool. And, you’ll get the job completed quicker than if you hog out material at a drill press, then clean up the mortise with your chisel.
Here’s a tip for routing mortises. Plunge the mortise area first, then slide the router along the cut to clean out and remove any left-behind waste material. I plunge the ends of the mortise then move to the center before clearing the cut. This may be old news for you, but I picked up the process just a little while back – there is always something new to learn while woodworking.
– Glen D. Huey
Mortise Pal Manual.pdf (785.41 KB)
Read other entries by Glen D. Huey | Read other Tool Tests
4/18/2008 1:23:47 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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Tuesday, April 15, 2008
My Take On Dovetail Angles
My take on dovetail angles might appear to be strange, but I have solid reasons for my choice – if I do say so myself. Here goes.
Dovetail angles are most notably described in degrees, but is often stated as a ratio, either 1:8 or 1:6. These ratios translate into a 7º or a 9º angle. These are the established angles; the angles we’re suppose to bow to upon pulling our marking gauges from the bench drawer as we prepare to cut the parts of the joint. One angle is suggested (a better word might be mandated) for softwoods (9º) and the other for hardwoods.
So, do you need two sets of marking or layout tools? One set for working dovetails in softwood and one for hardwoods? Why would you want to purchase tools that do the exact same task, only at a different angle? And, where is the dovetail joint used for the most part? That’s right, in drawer construction. Many woodworkers use a combination of hardwood drawer fronts with either hardwood sides (poplar) or softwood sides (pine). Yes there are other combinations, but I venture to say these are the most common in American antiques throughout the major furniture periods of Queen Anne, Chippendale and Federal.
I use Newport, R.I., as a demarcation line for typical woods used to build drawers and if you’re building reproduction furniture from Newport south (not Southern designs that use yellow pine as a secondary wood), you are probably using two hardwoods for your drawer parts; poplar as the sides, backs and bottoms with another primary hardwood as your drawer fronts. The two hardwoods traditionally dictate using a 7º slope.
But, what about us poor souls building drawers based on New England designs? Designs built north of Newport, R.I., where drawers use hardwood for the fronts and softwood, namely pine, as other drawer parts. What angle should we choose for our dovetails: 7º that matches the use of hardwood, or 9º used for softwoods? What a conundrum.
Additionally, we have the development of the dovetail jigs that suggest (there’s that word again) we use a 14º-dovetail router bit to make the tails and a straight bit to cut the pins. I can say I like the slope of these dovetails much better. Aesthetically, these are more pleasing to my eye. And that’s what I think should drive your dovetail angles – aesthetics.
Don’t accept the traditional ratios. I’ll bet a study of furniture and drawer construction from the 1700s through today would turn up many different dovetail angles. Of course, I’ve used the 7º, 9º and 14º angles during the period I used dovetail jigs to cut my joints. I’ll bet when I switched over to hand-cutting dovetails I used a few angles in between as well – as a beginner, it’s nearly impossible to stay on the layout lines. I know of no joint failures and not once have I seen the angles break or shear along the slope of the tail (something preached if the slope grows well beyond the traditional ratios).
The Angle I Use
So, where am I today with this dovetail angle question? I use a 12º angle. Why 12º, you may ask? Here’s my reasoning. I certainly wasn’t going to switch angles depending on the application (too much wasted time) and I wanted an angle that fit somewhere in the middle of the established slopes. And how many places does the number 12 show up in our world? We have 12 months in a year. Two sets of 12 hours in a day. Most people know that a dozen of anything is 12. And to bring it in line with woodworking, if you’re fitting a raised panel into a 1/4" groove and the panel needs to be the full width of the groove as it rests tight to the bottom of the groove (a snug fit so the panels don’t rattle), you need to set a 12º-angle cut for the panels.
And most important, I like the angle when I look at it.
Is it just me? Am I crazy? (That’s a question I’m sure I’ll get a few comments on. Remember the glove incident?) What degree slope do you use for your dovetails and why?
– Glen D. Huey
Read other entries by Glen D. Huey
4/15/2008 2:09:45 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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Tool Review: Veritas Dovetail Saw Guide
Lee Valley Tools sent out a new product release for a guide used for cutting dovetails. It’s not really a new guide, but a new angle for the guide. The reconfigured Veritas 14º Dovetail Guide (05T0205) has a 14º-angle cut instead of the 7º or 9º slope that's associated with the oft-quoted dovetail ratios of 1:8 and 1:6. (For more on my thoughts about dovetail angles, click here or at the bottom of this entry.)
I’ve had occasion to use a 1:6 ratio guide, and although it was for a limited amount of time, I was very impressed with the way the guide held the saw in the correct position for woodworkers. So, I was interested in getting the new design into the shop to evaluate after a lengthier period of use.
The guide is made with an anodized aluminum body and has a 3/4" rare earth magnet embedded at both ends of the jig. Those magnets grip your saw and hold it at the correct position, angled at 14º. Each end of the guide is covered with UHMW plastic to protect the jig, and your saw, as you make cuts. The guide and complete instructions come as one package, or you can purchase the guide, instructions and a saw as a second package.
Any saw without a back can be used with the guide and Lee Valley has the saw they recommend (click here to see the guide with that saw), but I had another idea. The Autumn 2007 Woodworking Magazine (issue #8) ran an article discussing flush-cut saws. In that article we listed Lee Valley’s kugihiki (60T06.20) as "highly recommended." I used this flush-cut saw with the guide and found it worked great. I recommend purchasing the kugihiki and making the saw work double duty as both your dovetail guide saw and your flush-cut saw.
This guide does not automatically produce a dovetail joint. You need an understanding of dovetails at the outset. You’ll need to know the difference between "tails" and "pins" as well as have a certain understanding of layout and what’s the waste side of your layout lines (information provided in the included instructions). With that information at hand, this guide helps improve the quality and accuracy of your cuts.
I’m a "pins first" dovetailer, so naturally I began cutting the pins. This is the only experience I had with the guide earlier and I knew the jig worked great here. I started with a half pin on both ends of my board, then positioned and cut two full pins in between. Once the guide is clamped at a layout line, the saw snapped to the magnet and was held perfectly vertical as I made the 14º cut. The cut came out perfectly straight. Next, I chopped out the waste to finish my pins and used the pin board as a layout tool for the tails.
A sharp pencil provides tight, accurate lines and that’s exactly what I needed to position the guide. The clamp portion of the guide can be removed and repositioned to cut the tails of the joint, too (see the photo at right). I set the guide so my pencil lines were just covered – that forces you to cut on the waste side of your lines – and made the cuts that define the tails. Clean out the pin waste and the tails portion of the joint is complete. Slide the pins into the tails and the dovetail joint is made. This guide can also be used to cut half-blind dovetails.
To read more about dovetail angles, click here.
– Glen D. Huey
Read other entries by Glen D. Huey | Read other Tool Tests
4/15/2008 1:57:14 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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Tuesday, April 08, 2008
Bookcase Challenge Running Full Force
The LumberJocks/Popular Woodworking Bookcase Challenge is in full force. Since the full-fledged announcement in our March 26th newsletter, entries have been trickling in. We expect a plethora of entries as we approach the deadline due to woodworkers’ procrastination – my style of work – and because most of us want our designs to be a surprise. But whatever your excuse, I hope you’re working on your drawings and designs.  Just to give you a taste of the competition, if you haven’t been following the event at lumberjocks.com, I thought I would show a few of the early entrants. These woodworkers stepped up and delivered their designs right out of the gate. And, these few morsels should help to inspire your designs, but remember your design has to be original. The first entry is from Gwurst (not his real name). Gwurst says he was stymied while trying to make a traditional design stand out. So, he did what any woodworker worth his salt would do, he turned to curves. He also says he couldn’t build this design, but it appears he has an eye for design. Will he get a chance to build his bookcase? How does his piece stack up against the competition?  Here’s another reason to participate in the contest. Huck and his spouse teamed up for their entry. Huck explains that his wife designed the bookcase and he did the SketchUp work. The original concept was to build the unit from sustainable material. Good idea! Now he is sure that he’ll have to build the bookcase whether it’s the winning design or not. I plan to stay tuned to this entry to see if Huck follows through and completes the bookcase. That’s a very nice “honeydo” for the list. Next up is a look at Joey’s design. Joey decided to bypass Google SketchUp and put pencil to paper. (That’s in keeping with the rules; you don’t have to be a computer whiz or spend time learning a design program – although we think once you get a taste of SketchUp you’ll find many uses for the program while working wood.) Joey's inspiration for design came from a huntboard that captured his eye, so he submitted a bookcase with loads of storage, many curves and smartly used sections of inlay banding. I hope he decides to build this design. I would enjoy seeing this project completed.  There’s more eye candy to see. Take a look at submitted designs ( click here), then add your own. I wouldn’t wait until the last minute if I were you. The challenge ends on April 20th and there’s no sense taking chances. Besides, I think getting the comments from fellow LumberJocks and other woodworkers would be half the fun. What do you think? Do you see a design that has you stepping out to the shop to build? – Glen D. Huey
Read other entries by Glen D. Huey
4/8/2008 8:48:09 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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Tuesday, March 25, 2008
Bookcase Design Challenge Grand Prize
The time has come to let the cat out of the bag. You’ve waited an entire week to find out about the LumberJocks/ Popular Woodworking magazine Challenge Grand Prize – a week I hope you’ve spent eyeing bookcase designs, including those linked to in the previous newsletter ( click here) where we announced the challenge. We boasted that neither Popular Woodworking, nor any other woodworking magazine that we know of, has ever offered this prize before. You can be part of this first-ever woodworking event. Here it is.  The winning original design will be published in Popular Woodworking magazine. We’re talking a full-out article, not just photos of the best design shown in a gallery. You’ll become a published contributing author – a fully paid contributing author – with your own byline.  We’ll work with you to develop step-by-step photos with captions as well as an opening photo for your story. (If we need to arrange for a photographer to come to your shop and take that shot, we will.) We will be with you at every step of the way. We hope this will sweeten the pot, but we also don’t want to scare anyone from the contest. So, if you want to design but not necessarily build your bookcase, we’ll take on the project here in the Popular Woodworking shop and write the article based on your input. It’s going to be your choice. Either way you choose, your name will be on the article. The entire woodworking community will see, read and probably build your bookcase design. This may open up a completely new path to meander down, or you may be happy just to get your design and name in front of thousands of fellow woodworkers. To get a complete set of rules, how to post your entry and to become a LumberJock (remember you have to be a LumberJock member to enter the contest) click here. – Glen D. Huey
Read other entries by Glen D. Huey
3/25/2008 1:56:48 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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Wednesday, March 12, 2008
Tape Rules or Tape Measures
Fat Max came into our office today. Now before you start giving me grief about a derogatory comment projected at a fellow worker, let me explain that Fat Max is a product category produced by Stanley (The Stanley Works, New Britain, CT) and the product that arrived was a 40'-tape rule.
I grew up in the home-building industry, so tape measures are something that I’ve worked with for a long time. I continue to use this tool in my workshop today – I do most of my rough cutting layout work (which does not require spot-on accuracy) with tape measures. There are more than a couple tape measures deposited around the shop.
The Fat Max 40' tape measure, as the name implies, is fat. Managing Editor Megan Fitzpatrick scoffed at the idea of her using the tape due to its size. She could barely maneuver her thumb to the lock while keeping a grip on the case. Even in my medium-size hand, the tape measure is huge.
So, other than its size, what’s different about a 40' Fat Max Tape Measure? According to Stanley, this tape is the world’s longest self-retracting tape rule, it’s 1-1/4"-wide and has a standout of 11'. Standout is the length of tape that is extended out of the case before the metal tape buckles under its own weight. (At 11' you can nearly reach the cubicle across the isle for a game of tag – not that I tried that.)
This tape rule is divided into 1/16" scale and has fine-line markings. In addition, Stanley suggests that you’ll gain twice the average tape rule life with a Fat Max due to a 3M Blade Armor bonded coating. The steel rule is covered with a layer of Mylar then a layer of Blade Armor, an industrial thermoplastic coating.
Here are some interesting facts about tape rules.
• The play in the hook end of the rule is there for a reason. The slight movement is equal to the thickness of the hook to achieve accurate results whether you’re measuring with the hook pressed against the surface or you hook the end as is normal usage.
• There are red squares, or numbers, printed in red, every 16". This is a house-framing notion because studs in walls and many floor joists are set with that spacing.
• (Here’s one I had to research.) There are black diamonds – sometimes referred to as black trusses – every 19.2". This corresponds to layout for some engineered lumber where architects can save a buck or two by increasing the spacing for roof trusses or floor joists where building codes allow.
Interestingly, and not by coincidence, 16" and 19.2" intervals are divisible into 8'-0" or 96", which is the standard size for sheet goods used in home construction and most woodworking plywood.
So, there are five 19.2" units in 8'. That ratio (8/5) equals 1.6 or very near the "golden ratio" which is 1.618. Are we challenged to build properly designed furniture with tape rules? Not me. As I stated above, I use tape measures for roughing out lumber before it’s milled to thickness and width. But, any trimming to final working size is measured with a reliable, accurate steel rule.
Do you use a tape rule in the shop and if so, how?
– Glen D. Huey
Read other entries by Glen D. Huey
3/12/2008 3:50:07 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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Tuesday, March 04, 2008
Corded or Cordless, Which is More Green
We get a lot of woodworking-related questions from readers. Most deal with articles published in recent issues of Popular Woodworking and Woodworking Magazine. But often, we’ll be asked about projects from old issues – some from as far back as the early 1990s. And sometimes, we’ll receive ideas for future articles and other worthy matters.
This past month I received a question about power tools, specifically drills. It seems that new drills, whether it’s a drill driver, impact driver, compact driver or some other type of driver, are constantly being improved upon and released by manufacturers. The latest drill improvement is in battery power, moving from Nickel-cadmium and Nickel-Metal hydride to Lithium-ion power packs. Many drills feature 18-volt Lithium-ion batteries, but it’s not uncommon to see 24v or 36v batteries stoking hand tools.
With all the focus in today’s world on being "green," one reader wondered if a battery-powered drill or an old-fashioned corded drill was better for our planet – which power source uses less energy. Put another way, it takes a certain amount of energy to charge a battery. That battery can, for the sake of discussion, drive 100 screws. If you then drove 100 identical screws using a corded drill, would you use more or less energy than it took to charge the battery?
Interesting question – and something I couldn’t answer, but I knew where to turn. I contacted Bryan Wright of Strata-G Communications (the company represents Bosch Power Tools.) He sent the question to Edwin Bender at Bosch – he's the group product manager for cordless tools.
Bender says that every application or operation requires a certain amount of power, measured in watts. And if you could hold all other variables constant, corded and cordless drills use roughly the same power.
According to Bender, "If you dig deeper and want to split hairs, a corded tool should typically be a little more efficient and therefore use less energy because it works off a higher voltage (120v or 220v) than cordless (12v-36v)." He goes on to say, "If you hold the power constant (for one application) then a lower voltage means you draw more current."
Bottom line: It’s nearly impossible to hold the variables constant and any variations would be so small that a simple answer is that both cordless and corded tools consume almost the same amount power. So using Lithium-ion power sources does not hurt the earth any more than a corded tool – just dispose of any old batteries properly. That doesn’t mean in a landfill.
Now, here's my question for you. Do you prefer to use cordless or corded tools? Do you find situations where it's best to use both? Leave a comment to let us know.
– Glen D. Huey
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3/4/2008 12:59:22 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)
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Thursday, February 28, 2008
Flush Trim Router Bits
 Spread open the pages of most woodworking magazines, including Popular Woodworking, and you’ll find projects built using face frames. Woodworkers go about building face-frame projects in varying ways.
Contributing editor Troy Sexton constructs the face frame then builds and fits the cabinet to that frame (See American Cabinet, Popular Woodworking April 2008, issue #168). I tackle a face-frame cabinet from a completely opposite direction. I build the cabinet then design my face frame to fit that case.
The one technique we both have in common is that we build the face frame larger and wider than the cabinet. The frame overhangs the case by at least 1/8". That’s so we can trim the frame to exactly fit the case. And how do we trim the frame? With a router and a flush-trim router bit.
The next question is which flush-trim bit. Yesterday I received a new catalog from a router bit company. I begin thumbing through the pages and was intrigues by a newly designed flush-trim bit – at least this was the first time I had seen this design. This bit has a glue-reservoir area that bridges a glue line in order to eliminate glue buildup on the bearing. Do we need this feature?
Also, do we need spiral-upcut and downcut flush-trim bits. Router bit manufacturers have touted these bits for years. Spiral flush-trim bits are supposed to provide a cleaner cut. How about downshear flush-trim bits? This style bit has been available for a while. Is this design something we should have in our bit arsenal?
For years, I’ve used a basic, straight flush-trim bit and it’s served me fine. I guess I’m set in my ways because I don’t see the need for these somewhat specialized router bits. I’m not saying that the next time I need to replace my flush-trim bit I’ll stay with my old standby, but I'm perfectly satisfied with the job the basic bit is doing.
So, how do you trim face frames to the case? Do you have a favorite flush-trim router bit or technique for flushing the face frame to the cabinet? Leave a comment and let us know how you’re trimming frame-to-cabinet joinery.
Oh – and a tip I picked up from Troy was to always do my flush trimming using a climb cut. That technique keeps you from ripping out the wood as you trim. That’s what makes the results using an ordinary flush-trim router bit equal to the newer designs.
– Glen D. Huey
Read other entries by Glen D. Huey
2/28/2008 9:52:58 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)
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Wednesday, February 20, 2008
Egg on My Face
For the current issue of Popular Woodworking magazine, we tested
Lithium-ion, battery-operated drills. In the article, we write that the
Ryobi kit (P813) has only a single battery included, which we didn’t like.
In fact, the kit has two batteries. I had set the second battery aside to
make sure we had an unused battery when it came time for testing. And then I
forgot about it.
Several readers told us the kits do, in fact come with two batteries. Ryobi
confirmed it. And we apologize.
– Glen D. Huey
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2/20/2008 11:55:37 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)
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Wednesday, February 13, 2008
Bikes of Wood
I’m not a big exerciser. I don’t like to lift weights, jog in the dark or ride bicycles for enjoyment. And, if you’ve had the opportunity to meet me at one of the woodworking shows in which I’ve participated, or if you’ve scrutinized the photos in my articles, you’re probably thinking, "it’s obvious he’s not into exercise." Maybe that’s why I’m on the larger side of average.
What’s all this have to do with a woodworking blog entry? In the past few days I had a web site brought to my attention – that of a builder who uses computer numerical control (CNC) machines to create bikes.
Normally, you would have to promise me a slice of homemade pie to get me to look at a site dealing with bikes. But this is a bit different. Founded by Ken Wheeler, Renovo Hardwood Bicycles of Portland, Ore., makes the frames out of wood.
Renovo’s information-rich web site mentions ash, Brazilian cherry and purpleheart as a few hardwoods that are great for bike frames. I also found a mention of vertical-grained fir being used. Why wood? The company expounds wood's ability to dampen vibrations and stand up to abuse better than more typical bike-building materials. And bikes built from wood are lightweight – weighing in at 16 – 19.5 pounds, depending on the size.
These bikes are so light due to the fact they’re hollow (you have to love CNC machining). The Renovo frame is computer designed and machined, then the frame components are assembled, waterproofed and finished with paint and environmentally responsible polyurethane.
This past weekend Renovo Hardwood Bicycles exhibited at the North American Handmade Bicycle Show (NAHBS). In perusing the many web sites connected with the show (I started at this archived blog at bikeportland.org), I haven’t found much mention of Renovo. Maybe the unveiling was less than stellar, but dig around and you’ll see the competition was tremendous.
One interesting tidbit I did find is that the fifth anniversary of the NAHBS (2009), is being held in Indianapolis. That’s a short drive from us here in Cincinnati. I’ll plan to make the show – but only to see where woodworking and bike building cohabit. Not because I’ll be into exercise.
If you were in attendance in Portland this year and you have further information on Renovo or the show, please add your comment below.
Since the posting of this entry, I received this message from Mr. Wheeler in response to a couple questions. Below is his message: "The Hand built show was our first public exposure, and the bikes were well received. We've been profiled on most bike web sites and are swamped with interest and orders. People like the wood concept, as well as the sustainability," writes Wheeler.
"Frame prices start at $2000 and depend on the type of rear end, wood, configuration, etc. We use select hardwoods whose mechanical properties meet our stiffness and hardness criteria.Typically Jatoba, Ash, Maple, Hickory, Black Walnut, Brazilian Walnut and others.We have used Douglas Fir which is stiff enough, but which also dents easily because it is so soft. The machining process is complex, requiring 6 separate operations, and the hand finishing and bonding is considerable. It takes up to a week to complete a frame."
– Glen D. Huey
Read other entries by Glen D. Huey
2/13/2008 2:25:23 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)
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Monday, February 04, 2008
Plunge-cut Saws Available in Europe
 Has Festool started something big? Is it a new revolution in woodworking? No, I’m not referring to the Domino. That’s old news. Today, I’m writing about Plunge Cut Saws – saws that have a riving knife and so much more.
When the Popular Woodworking team was in Las Vegas for AWFS (Association of Woodworking & Furnishings Suppliers®), we wrote about the invasion of riving knives. We specifically were discussing table saws. But, handheld circular plunge-cut saws fit the bill too.
At AWFS, we spent a great evening with Delta/Porter-Cable. After dinner and entertainment, we were allowed to look at and touch the new tools on display, and talk with company employees about them; these were tools not released at the time. One such tool was a plunge-cut saw. I held the tool in my hands and felt the balance, and looked at the plunge action of the blade. It was very similar to Festool’s TS55EQ saw and the plan was to release the new Delta/Porter-Cable version in Europe sometime in early 2008.
A few weeks ago, I had the opportunity to use a TS55EQ (325 British pounds, US$481) for some work around my shop at home. I was overwhelmed at the ability of the saw. The tool runs on a track which made my cuts on plywood dead straight, and the finish cut was smooth and clean. I was so impressed that I assembled my information and thoughts into a Tool Test column for the April 2008 issue of Popular Woodworking (due to ship to subscribers this week and on sale at newsstands Feb. 26.) I highly recommend the TS55EQ.
Today, it was brought to my attention that a couple other companies have released or are releasing a handheld plunge-cut saw to the market – the European market. Makita has a plunge-type saw out in the U.K. while a DeWalt version is “Coming Soon.” Are they worth the investment? And, how do they stack up to a Festool saw?
Makita has released the SP6000K. It’s a 165 mm plunge saw that boasts a 1300-watt motor and a 55mm (2-1/8") depth of cut at 90º. The SP6000K1 includes a 1.4m (nearly 55") guide rail and is priced at 239 British pounds (US$354). Click here for information.
DeWalt ramps up the choices of the plunge-cut saw to work with other tools in the DeWalt line. You can get a plunge-cut saw (DC351KL) with a 28v Li-ion battery (DeWalt’s nano technology battery) an 18v battery comparable with Dewalt’s XRP line (DC352KB) or you can revert back to the old days and purchase a corded version (DWS520K). The only pricing I could find was for the DC351KL. DeWalt’s saw is priced at 509.79 British pounds (US$756.00). Click here for details.
We couldn’t get any information about possible U.S. release dates or how sales are in the U.K. market. If and/or when we get more news, we’ll let you know. In the meantime, check out the new saws. Maybe your next circular saw should be one with a riving knife that runs on a track. I hope each company has a released planned for the U.S. market – I can’t wait to get hold of each of these new saws.
What do you think? Is this saw strictly for plywood and sheet goods? Or, can you see using this set-up for all your circular-saw needs. Post a comment, but keep your eyes open for more information.
–Glen D. Huey
Read other entries by Glen D. Huey
2/4/2008 2:49:39 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)
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Wednesday, January 23, 2008
Don’t Use Push Pads or Sticks: Part 2
 If you haven’t read the first part of this discussion (including the comments), please do so. Click here to jump to that entry.
As I wrote in one of my comments on the previous entry, I knew this would be a hot topic for the blog. And, I was right! Finally, the smoke has cleared a bit, so it’s time to stoke the fires again. If you please, I’d like to step up on my soapbox.
I’m amazed at the level of fear that woodworkers have for their power tools. I would never spend my well-earned money for a machine that frightened me each time I used it. How could one comfortably get anything accomplished? Most of you do woodworking as a hobby, not for business. As a hobby, woodworking is supposed to be relaxing and guide you to your "happy place." If you’re worried about using the tools, you’re not going to arrive at your intended destination. Spend the time to understand the tools and what they can do.
One comment suggested that all power tools are inherently dangerous. Does that mean we should forgo power tools in favor of hand tools? Wait – hand tools can be dangerous as well. So, should we pass on using them, too? I believe that we’re told so often how dangerous woodworking machines are that we’ve reached a state of panic instead of simply being informed. These tools are no more dangerous than driving a car, being hooked to the Internet via a computer or walking alone on a dark street at night (think about it). You have to pay attention and not become complacent.
No tool is safe in the hands of someone who is not paying attention to what they’re doing. Operator error is the number one cause of accidents in the shop. We have to be responsible for ourselves.
Everything has a level of risk associated with it. How we choose to face that risk speaks volumes about our personalities.
Here are a number of points about the blog entry and the comments.
• Gloves should fit snug on your hand. I once bought an under-sized pair and found the fit perfect for use at the jointer (shown in the photo).
• As I stated, I use gloves only at the jointer – not at the planer or table saw, as some of the early responders hinted toward.
• I never, as seen in the photo both here and in the previous entry, allow my gloves or fingers to extend over the edges of the lumber I’m jointing. This is why I set limits to the width of boards I run in this manner.
• I cannot remember a time when I ran ¼” material over the jointer knives (nor can any of our other editors). To mill to that thickness, start with a 4/4 piece of stock, joint one face surface then move to a planer, band saw or table saw. If you find movement or twist after you’ve ripped to the desired thickness, you should finish with hand tools – or start over with a new board.
• In reference to the above, I use kiln-dried (KD) lumber that has stabilized in my shop. In using air-dried lumber you should expect some problems in this area. I’ve run into it with KD stock too. I also never use boards with loose knots (a problem noted in a comment).
• I’ve never had a piece of stock blow apart or jump from the jointer bed or become air-born. Perhaps this is a reflection of the lumber I’ve selected or, knowing the methods of work at the jointer (and each tool in the shop).
• Replace worn gloves just as you would a dull saw blade or a dull blade in a utility knife. Do you check these other tools regularly or simply awake one day with the thought in mind? Don’t become complacent.
• When I teach woodworkers how to use a jointer, I explain how things can go wrong using the machine, and how to use the push pads that come with the tools as well as designs for better devices (shown in Marc Adams’ article in the February 2008 issue of Popular Woodworking). Then I show them how I operate at the jointer with gloves. My students choose their preferred method based on their comfort levels.
I don’t want people to get hurt using woodworking tools. I also don’t want us to be afraid of these power tools, or any tools. We need woodworkers to have fun, complete successful projects and get the next generation involved in the craft.
–Glen D. Huey
Read other entries by Glen D. Huey
1/23/2008 2:19:31 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)
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Wednesday, January 16, 2008
Don't Use Push Sticks or Pads
I hope you’ve had an opportunity to read the “Woodworking Essentials” column in the February 2008 issue of Popular Woodworking (#167). In it, Marc Adams discusses power jointers and a better way to work. I have to admit that I had a few issues with Marc’s article, but I’m not the safest guy in the shop. However, I did learn a number of ways to improve my time at the jointer.
One area in which I veer from Marc’s teachings is in the use of push sticks and push pads. Let me say that if you use these implements, he shows you exactly how they should be gripped and used. My statement is: I don’t use sticks and pads. I use gloves. There it is – deal with it.
OK, now that you’ve calmed down and the little hairs on the back of your neck have laid flat, let me explain what, why and how I use gloves. I only use them at the jointer and I remove them before moving to any other tools.
The gloves I use are gripping-style gloves that are used to grip lumber or other materials. I’ve used PVC dot-covered gloves, gloves that are palm coated with rubber and those with a honeycomb pattern.
To answer the "why," I feel I have more control when using gloves. Naturally, your hands read or feel the lumber as it moves over the jointer bed. You can feel where the board hits and skips the knives or if you need to speed or slow the travel to obtain a cleaner cut. When you add a push stick or pad to the process, you remove the ability to feel the board as well as access that information. Also, the gripping action of my gloves ensures that I’ll not slip while working. That’s not something I feel you can say when using the push pads (those always seem awkward to use). And imagine the ease of moving the board back for a second pass – no putting down the push stick or pad to then grab the board to move.
Next, let’s look at how I use gloves. Of course, you should never allow your hand to perch beyond the trailing edge of the board. So, don’t use your palm to push the lumber. The reason we’re tempted to hook our palm over the trailing edge of the board is to gain a hold and not allow the lumber to slip. But, if you’re using grip-type gloves, you can simply place your hands anywhere along the board – the gripping action holds firm and allows you to move the lumber with ease.
Even I have a limit to the glove scenario. I will not use gloves for jointing pieces that are less than 3" wide. Below that width I cannot position my hands or fingers properly to gain the added control. From 3" to 5" I use my glove-covered fingertips and the side of my hands for my hold. Above 5" in width I position my palms flat to the stock at go about my work.
Now before you send me a message or comment on how wrong I am because you’ve read “no gloves in the shop” all your woodworking life, buy a pair of gloves and give it a try. I’ll bet you’ll immediately notice the added control and the information gained from your work. But, if you try it and still think I’m wrong – fire away.
And if you happen to agree with my glove use, add your comment. We might start a new movement that will rock the foundation of safety in the woodshop.
–Glen D. Huey
Read other entries by Glen D. Huey
1/16/2008 11:34:23 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)
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Tuesday, January 15, 2008
Tool Test: Combination Machines
 Combination machines that offer a jointer and planer in one unit are the talk on the Internet and most woodworking forums these days. We’ve written about the Grizzly and Jet machines in our AWFS coverage, listed the tool as a “Best New Tool of 2007” in our December issue (#166), and we continue to receive questions on a weekly, if not daily, basis. We've test-driven both, so, let’s take a look at the Grizzly G6033 and the Jet JJP-12 and do a little side-by-side comparison.
In my opinion, there are a number of areas to discuss such as the motor, the jointer's fence, the blade guard, the jointer's table and the complexity of the changeover operations (switching between the jointer and the planer).
In comparing the motors of the two machines, one glaring difference stands out – horsepower. A 5-horsepower, 220-volt motor powers the Grizzly tool while the Jet machine boasts a 3-horsepower, 220-volt motor. Each motor produces more than  5,000 rpm making the number of cuts per inch about equal; Grizzly has 15,102 cuts compared to Jets 16,500 cuts.
After the motors, the next most important feature is the fence. The best feature of the fence on the Jet machine is that it does not need to be removed in order to switch between the two operations. However, you do have to slide the fence fully to the rear of the tool in order to lift the jointer bed. The fence is aluminum and over-sized. Being attached in two locations made the fence difficult to adjust (see photo). We experienced racking as we slid the fence across the bed. Knobs and levers hold the fence in position and we felt there could have been more development based around the Jet fence.
The Grizzly fence is strong and easy to adjust. A simple flip of a lever allows you to rotate a knob and move the fence across the jointer bed. The bad news with the Grizzly design is having to remove the entire fence before converting the machine to planer mode. The fence slides off a dovetail way, which is easy enough, but storing the fence each time you use the planer is burdensome. Additionally, because the single tube holding the fence is long and sticks out the back of the machine, it isn’t possible to position the tool tight to a wall in the shop. In essence, the footprint of the tool grows. Overall, however, the Grizzly fence is much better than the Jet in our opinion.
The blades guards for these two machines come from different universes. The Grizzly has the more familiar (at least in the United States) pork-chop style guard. It swings out as the material, and your hand, moves past the cutterhead. The Jet features a design similar to European machines in which the rigid guard raises and lowers, allowing you to adjust to the thickness of your stock. This type guard helps keep your hands from ever passing over the blades. The staff prefers the Jet guard. It's an overall safer design.
When it comes to jointer tables, the Jet machine has a single, heavy table. The top is corrugated. And while that might be easier to keep flat during manufacturing, we felt it added a bit of drag to the workpiece. The jointer table is locked to the base with two catches, one at each end. Release the catches then lift the bed. After that, all you need to do is flip the dust-collection hood and you’re ready to plane your stock. Of course, that’s after you spin the hand wheel to raise the planer bed. (As with all combo machines, you have to lower the planer bed to convert back to the jointer and vice versa.)
The Grizzly has a split, smooth and polished jointer bed and that means an extra step in converting to planer mode. Unlock the catches and lift either the right- or left-side tables, then lift the other half. It doesn’t matter which half is lifted first, you still have to fiddle with the blade guard to finish the positioning of the jointer tables – the guard has to be maneuvered out of the way of the outfeed table.
Next, you’ll need to position the dust collection for the planer. The hood is flipped similar to the Jet but without any latch hook to keep it locked. Also, because this tool has a separate dust-collection port for the jointer, the attachment of the hose to the planer is tricky due to part of the jointer hood being in the way.
Both machines performed excellently in milling and regular operations (we have the G6034 spiral head Grizzly combination machine so a one-to-one comparison is not possible). And prices for the two competitors are relatively close. The Jet JJP-12 can be purchased for around $1,700 while the purchase price for the Grizzly G6033 is at $1,795 (the spiral cutterhead brings the price to $2,295).
Whether these types of machines are the answer to your shop needs is left up to you. I, for one, am quite fond of my dedicated jointer and planer tools. I’m not yet ready to experience changeover when switching operations. There are many times I appreciate leaving the setup on the tools in place. Returning to the jointer to mill another piece of stock is better if you don’t have to spend time carefully matching previous work.
– Glen D. Huey
Read other entries by Glen D. Huey
1/15/2008 12:50:18 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)
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Tuesday, January 08, 2008
Tool Review - You Make The Call
Occasionally, Popular Woodworking receives tools that we immediately recognize as good, if not great, ideas and designs. However, they do not seem to fit into a woodshop in the best way. I don’t want to simply pass on writing about these tools because I know they are beneficial to some of our readers and sometimes I think I might not see how the tools can be used in the shop. You know the saying, something about not seeing the forest because of all the trees. So, over the next few weeks, I’m offering up a few tools that fall into this category. I would like for you to evaluate these tools and let me know if I’m right (they are great tools, but are not totally useful in the woodshop) or if I clearly missed the boat and these tools would make terrific additions to your woodworking experience.  First up is the Starrett Prosite 5-N-1 Protractor. This protractor is available at Amazon.com for $85 ( link to tool). Popular Woodworking reviewed the earlier version of this tool December 2004. In his review, David Thiel wrote that the angle gauge was very easy to use for finding angles and miters. He also wrote that the szie made it a bit bulky to use to fine-tune machine setup in the shop (Click the link to read Thiel’s review Prosite Protractor.pdf (316.64 KB)). Today, even with the improvements to the markings – they’re laser engraved – and the addition of a couple charts that help find the appropriate settings for cutting crown mouldings and determining roof pitches, my take on this tool is that it’s a wonderful tool for the construction trade. If I were still in that field, I could find many uses for the Prosite Protractor. But in the woodshop, I just cannot find more than an occasional application. How about it? Am I missing a great use for the Starrett 5-N-1 tool? Or, is it a great tool for applications other than woodworking? Leave a comment for everyone to see or, if you choose, send a message directly to me. If I've missed the call on this tool, I go to the wall to get a review in the magazine. Next, we’ll take a look at a direct fit air hose system. It’s called APEGRIP and it’s by High Tech Air Connection. –Glen D. Huey
Read other entries by Glen D. Huey
1/8/2008 9:40:45 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)
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Wednesday, December 26, 2007 |