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 Monday, June 30, 2008
Bob's Bench – Completed Bench and Friendly Wager
Last Thursday I put the finishing touches on my new workbench, just in time for a Friday-morning photo session. The plan was to shoot on location, and editor Christopher Schwarz and I were discussing the plan. The one item not resolved was actually moving the bench from our shop to another shop with a more photogenic parking lot. Chris proposed moving the bench completely assembled, and I said "why don't we just take it apart and move the pieces? I think that will be easier."
 His response was, "that will take 45 minutes or an hour; it will be quicker to just throw it in the truck." Never afraid to disagree with the boss, I said "It won't take that long, this will come apart in 10 or 15 minutes, and we won't need more than two people to carry the parts." We went back and forth for a few minutes. "No you can't," "Yes I can" led to "No way," "Absolutely." I don't remember which of us was the first to say, "Want to bet?," but the introduction of that phrase changed things from theoretical discussion to practical demonstration. The stakes were settled, and the time set for the following morning. As news of the contest spread through the office, it was mutually decided to record the proceedings on film and video.  When I designed this bench, I kept the component parts few in number. The two top slabs are held to the leg structure with four lag bolts coming up through the top rails on each end. With those bolts removed, the tops were placed out of the way on a rolling cart, and I went after the four lags that secure the lapped dovetails at the end of the upper rails. With that task accomplished, I put down the wrench and removed the boards that make up the lower shelf. Those pieces are half-lapped and simply sit on cleats attached to the rails. When those were removed and stacked, I grabbed the hammer.  I lifted the idea for the joints on the ends of the lower rails from an old drawing of a Nicholson bench. There is a dovetail-shaped slot in each leg, and half a lapped dovetail on the end of each rail. The rails slide into the slots, drop into position and a wedge is tapped in from the outer side of the leg to lock the joint together. This is a surprisingly strong connection, and if the joints loosen over time all I need to do is reach down and give the end of the wedge a rap with my hammer. Tapping from the other direction removes the wedges, allowing the rails to move up and out. One of the wedges escaped my grasp and went scooting across the shop floot, costing me about 10 seconds of time to retrieve it.  Here's a look at the joints coming apart, and the two leg assemblies and lower rails were added to the pile. Elapsed time: 6 minutes, 30 seconds. Putting the bench back together is nearly as fast. It went back together for the photo shoot, and apart again for the return trip to the shop. At the moment it's not assembled. Another challenge has been issued, and we'll soon gather in the shop, stop watches and digital cameras at the ready, to see how fast an old man can move putting the bench back together. Details on building and using the bench will be included in our October issue, which will be on sale around the first of September. In the meantime, there will be more about it here on the blog as I put it to use. I've enjoyed building this bench, and I'm looking forward to using it. – Bob Lang Read other entries by Robert W. Lang
6/30/2008 1:58:02 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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 Wednesday, June 18, 2008
Bob's Bench-Week 2 Becomes Week 3
Sometimes it's hard to get enough shop time in, and that's how it's felt the last week and a half. We've been scrambling to get the next issue of Woodworking Magazine ready to send to the printer and getting our October issue going. It wouldn't be so bad, but I'm taking lots of photos and we're shooting video and that can really slow things down. Even though I've been moving at glacial speed, I've made progress.  The other thing slowing me down is me. This bench will be around for a long time, and will likely be the object of scrutiny, so I'm fussing over things more than I otherwise might. I don't look at this project as a piece of furniture, but I don't want to make any compromises. Ten years from now I'd like to look at the joints and say "that looks pretty good." At that distance I know I won't be saying "I'm sure glad I got home in time for dinner the day I made that ugly joint." The picture above is the last joint in the base and leg assembly. This is the inside of the outer half of one of the legs. A wedge gets knocked in the empty space and holds the rail to the legs.  That's what it looks like after the legs are laminated together and the base is assembled. It's nice to be at this point but there is still a lot of work left. The base needs to be prettified by planing all the surfaces smooth and flush, and I'll need to knock off the sharp corners. The upper rails will attach with lag screws, and I'll attach the top the same way. Then it will be on to installing the vises, drilling the dog dog holes, and making the tool trays and shelf. All of that by this time next week, when the final photo shoot is scheduled.  It wears me out just thinking about it. --Bob Lang Read other entries by Robert W. Lang
6/18/2008 5:35:36 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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 Tuesday, June 17, 2008
New Jig Saw Blades From Bosch
Bosch has just announced the introduction of a revolutionary new blade for jigsaws. Designated the "T 308B Xtra Clean for Wood," this blade promises – and delivers – better cuts than we have ever seen from a jigsaw. A couple months ago we received some samples for testing in our shop, and late yesterday we got the green light to be the first to announce this new blade.  Until using this blade, I always regarded a jigsaw cut as a preliminary one – a cut that would need some extra work to remove saw marks, straighten a wobbly cut, or fix some tear-out on the top or bottom of the work. But thanks to the unique tooth geometry on this blade, I now think of the jigsaw as extremely capable for making finish cuts. I used the blade when making the Craftsman Bookcase for our August issue, and I've been using it to cut the large dovetails for the workbench that I'm currently building.  Here is a close-up of one of the joints, immediately after cutting. The light reflecting on the just-cut part of the joint indicates how smooth the surface is. If you look at the blade, you can clearly see that the teeth on the lower portion of the blade are a different shape from those at the top. Bosch refers to the top teeth as "pointed teeth" and the lower ones as "scalpel teeth." This arrangement allows the blade to cut both on the up and down strokes, leaving a clean cut on both faces.  The cut edge is also exceptionally clean and smooth, and I found that the blade cut with far less resistance than most blades, allowing for a greater amount of control during cutting. At the moment we do not have a specific date for when these will be available for sale, or the price. When I have an answer, I'll let you know. The 12 tpi blade will be available soon from Bosch distributors. We shot some video yesterday, and you can view it by clicking on the player below. --Bob Lang Read other entries by Robert W. Lang | Read other Tool Tests
6/17/2008 8:06:05 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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 Monday, June 09, 2008
Bob's Bench-A Decent First Week
I've started on the bench, spending as much time in the shop as I could spare, and after a week and a day, it looks like I'm making good progress. The shop is messy, but there are now piles of parts where a stack of rough lumber used to be. I've probably spent about 25 hours actually working on it, it gets hard to keep track when I have to stop and take photos or shoot video. Here is a link to some previous posts showing what I'm up to: Previous Blog Posts. And here in a moment of neatness is where I was last Friday morning.  At the bottom of the pile are the two glued up slabs that will comprise the top, and the stack on top is destined to become legs, rails and stretchers. Even though milling rough lumber takes some effort, one of my favorite parts of any project is hitting this point. I tend to fuss over the rough milling, because if my parts will form a nice neat stack, it means they are straight and square. And if they're straight and square, every step that follows will be considerably easier.  One of the purposes for building this bench, and documenting it on the blog and on video is to show that a good bench can be built with a minimal amount of machines, space, experience and skill. I've set up a space in a corner of the shop with a 6-inch joiner, a twelve-inch lunchbox planer, and a 1-3/4 horsepower hybrid table saw. This is a pretty basic setup, and although at times I've pushed the machines close to their limits, they've been up to the task so far. I designed this bench to work around these tools, matching parts and subassemblies to their limitations. So if you've been putting off building a bench until you have a massive table saw, an aircraft carrier size jointer, and a planer the size of a house trailer, find another excuse and get to work.  After rough cutting the 8/4 material to manageable sizes, I milled all the individual pieces for the top, and then glued them together in pairs. Each glued up pair took another trip over the jointer and through the planer. Three pairs were glued together to make each 3" thick, 12" wide and 8-foot long top section. Because these parts were all carefully made, the final assembly went smoothly. I put two straight pieces of material the long way across my horses, and then laid square pieces across them at about 12-inch intervals. This gave me a level platform for gluing, and stock this size doesn't want to twist or bend.  One of the other myths to dispel about building a bench is that "You need a bench to build a bench". Now that I have the tops together, I have a better work surface than I've ever had, and there's no reason not to put them to work. Here's a photo from around lunchtime Friday as I work on the mortises for the leg assemblies. --Bob Lang Read other entries by Robert W. Lang
6/9/2008 4:50:27 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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 Tuesday, June 03, 2008
Buying Hardwood Lumber – Two Approaches
Among the most often-asked questions we get are about buying lumber for a project. Although it seems to be a very basic question, and knowledgeable folks like us should have a quick answer, it isn't as simple as going to the grocery store for ingredients for a meal. When you buy hardwood lumber, you're not buying the steak you want to have for dinner. You're buying the part of the cow that the steak comes from.
 How much lumber you need, and how you go about buying it, depends on a lot of things that can't always be calculated or predicted. You can (and should) calculate the sizes of the finished parts for a project. For our August issue (which should start shipping to subscribers in a couple weeks) I built this Craftsman-style bookcase.  Some quick number crunching reveals that the finished parts will require a little less than 40 board feet (bf) of material. That's good information, and if I were pouring a liquid into a mold, that amount of raw material would work. The problem with wood is that until you see the raw material, you have little idea how much to allow for waste. For this bookcase, I used lumber-buying method number 1; I went to the lumber yard with my cutlist and drawing in hand and selected each piece. I was fortunate that wide material was available for most of the parts and that the stuff on hand was long enough that I could cut one 5'-long side and a shelf, or three shelves from each available 9'-long plank. That accounted for three planks, and the others would yield the the remaining parts. I spent some time, and examined about 200 bf of material before purchasing 49 bf. I have just enough material left over to make a frame for my new poster that all the other editors are coveting. We shot some video of this process, and you can view it by clicking here. For the October issue, I'm knee-deep in milling rough lumber and making parts for the workbench seen in the exploded view below. This is made from 8/4 (2"-thick) material. The top sections and the legs are laminated to make thicker parts. Each top section will be 3" thick, 12" wide and a little more than 7' long. The legs will be 3-1/2" square. I called some mills to get prices, and found a good deal on ash. For this project, I used lumber buying-strategy number 2. I wasn't that concerned about the appearance of the wood, I knew I needed a bunch, and I didn't want to drive half a day to go get it and bring it home. I wanted to order "X" amount and have it delivered.  The finished parts calculate to be about 80 bf, so my experience with the bookcase tells me I need about 20 percent more than that for waste. If I had ordered 100 bf, I would have had to make a second phone call, and here's why. Cherry-picking (actually sapele-picking) the wood for the bookcase kept me away from the biggest factor that can't be controlled – random lengths and widths. The guys at the mill loading the truck weren't about to look at my cutlist and send me the most usable pieces out of what they had. They were going to pull "X" amount of the top of the stack and send it on its way. So instead of adding 20 percent to what I calculated, I added 50 percent. Then a little voice in my head said, "take the order up to 150 bf; the price is good and it won't hurt to have some extra around the shop." This morning I glued up the last piece to be laminated, and was grateful that I listened to the little voice. Most of the parts I needed finish at 3" or 3-1/2" wide. Most of the lumber that arrived was slightly over 6" wide – not quite wide enough to get two pieces from each board. I ended up with just enough material, even though I thought I was buying a lot more than I needed.  Buying lumber is more art than science, and you have to be willing to risk having extra material around to avoid the worst that can happen. The worst isn't having extra material kicking around the shop. The worst thing is stopping in the middle of a project to go get one more board. I did end up with a sizable amount of extra material from the bench, but it all looks like this. This appears to be just about a lifetime supply of stock for baseball bats, billy clubs and hoe handles. But I have all the parts for the bench on hand, and I'm ready to start putting it together. – Bob Lang Read other entries by Robert W. Lang
6/3/2008 2:09:57 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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 Monday, April 28, 2008
Lines and Miters and Errors Oh My
In our June issue, our I Can Do That feature is a mitered CD/DVD rack. Our goal for these columns is to show that attractive, well made projects can be made with a minimal amount of tools and time. Most people want something to show for their effort while they are learning and you won't need to apologize for any of these projects. If you want to go further in your developing skills you'll have a good start as well as evidence that you can make some nice stuff. The idea for this column is to minimize the frustration level and hit the ground running. Miters can be especially frustrating, so we focused the technique in the article on gluing them together without having them slide out of place. That is miter frustration number 1.

One of my earliest projects was a clock face in a mitered frame. I was about 16 at the time and it was my dad's idea to make this clock as a present for his aunt. Dad was an engineer, not a woodworker and the two of us really struggled to get the corners to close and look good. One of our problems was we didn't know when to be really, really fussy and when we could say "close enough". With the miters on the book rack above, you can ignore slight errors in the angles or in the length and concentrate on assembling the joints. If you make a four-sided frame however, you need to be a perfectionist. 
I played around with SketchUp to demonstrate what can happen if you're close, but not quite there. These four pieces are 3/4" x 3/4", and the angles on the ends are only off by one-half of a degree, a tolerance many people would consider "good enough". As you can see, each of these small errors joins the others, and the final corner has a gap that is huge. You can try to close it up with various clamps and fasteners, but the chances of success are slim. So what if you get closer? What if you can come within 1/10 of a degree? 
Here the gap is much smaller, but still significant. The other bad thing that can happen here is if the pieces aren't perfectly straight, or all the same length. A bow in the length will change the effective angle and the joints won't close. A variation in the length will cause similar problems. A lot of joints that seem more complicated than miters are actually less risky to make because there are ways to make small adjustments during fitting and assembly. Miters appear simple and easy. And they are, with one big "IF". If the pieces are straight, the same length and the correct angle they go right together. So make sure your saw or shooting board or whatever you use is dead on accurate. Get a reliable machinist's square (I recommend a Starrett) to check your work. Stick the pointy end of the miter between the blade and stock of the square and hold it up to a source of light. If you can see any gaps your angle is off. Resist the temptation to say "close enough" and take the time to make it right. When you think you're right, put two pieces together, and use the other end of the square to make sure the joint is really and truly at 90 degrees. Then you have defeated miter frustration number 2.
--Bob Lang
Read other entries by Robert W. Lang
4/28/2008 10:46:56 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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 Monday, March 31, 2008
Shaker Village of Pleasant Hill
The restored Shaker Village of Pleasant Hill, Kentucky, has been on my list of places to visit for a long time. It is only a two-hour drive south of Cincinnati, and I can't count the number of times I've driven through the area and thought: "next time, we'll stop." This past weekend we made a special trip, and stayed overnight.
 Pleasant Hill was one of the largest of the western Shaker communities, and the only one remaining that is open to the public in this part of the country. I had been to the Shaker Museum in Chatham, New York, and the Hancock Shaker Village in Massachusetts. Several of the pieces from Pleasant Hill have been featured in Popular Woodworking; most recently a firewood box was our "I Can Do That" project in our February 2008 issue. I saw three or four variations in different locations.
 One of the unique aspects of Pleasant Hill is that a good portion of the property is an inn, with a wonderful restaurant and rooms available in the original buildings. I've been to a lot of museums and restorations, but I've never spent the night in one. It added immensely to the experience, giving us a much better feel for what life would have been like for the community members. (It also gave us some much needed peace and quiet.)
 Our room was next to one of the most famous features of the village, the twin spiral staircase in the Trustee's Office. As a museum visitor, I would have gone up once or twice and taken a good look, but as a guest I enjoyed the stairs every time I left our room. It truly is an amazing piece of woodworking; there are actually two stairways on either side of a central hallway. Each side is two flights, twisting up to the third floor where a skylight provides both light and the feeling that these stairs lead to heaven.
 Most monumental stairways are full of intricate details such as carved newel posts and turned balusters. The details in the stair are incredibly simple, yet the combination of shapes, and the subtle changes as the stairs turn and rise, make this an elegant statement of design and craftsmanship.
So if you're ever driving through Kentucky, make it a point to stop and enjoy as much time as you can spare. And don't leave without trying the lemon pie.
— Bob Lang
Read other entries by Robert W. Lang
3/31/2008 12:47:52 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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 Monday, March 17, 2008
Sharpening System in a Box
Norton IM83 Portable Waterstone Sharpening System
 I'm not the most organized person in the world. In fact, I'm without argument the messiest person in our office and shop. I do OK if there is a system in place that I can follow without thinking too much about it. But if there isn't a place for everything, then I just put everything all over the place. This is one of the reasons I like the Norton IM83 Sharpening Set. In one case, which is just a bit larger than a lunchbox, is everything I need to keep my edge tools honed.

In the top of the box is a three-sided gizmo that holds three waterstones: #1000, #4000, and #8000 grit. It is designed to hold two of the stones in a bath of water, and the third in position for use. As I move up through the grits, rotating the holder brings the next stone into position, soaked and ready to use. I don't have room for a dedicated sharpening station, or the discipline to keep myself from piling stuff on one if I had it, so this makes it easy to contain the mess when it's time to hone, and it only takes a minute to pack it all back up.
In the bottom of the box is a second storage compartment where a flattening stone lives, and there is space down there for a few rags and other sharpening sundries. Also included in the set is a DVD on techniques for sharpening freehand. I learned to sharpen before workable jigs to hold the chisels or plane irons were readily available, and I have a philosophical bias to sharpening freehand. My argument is this: To use edge tools effectively you need to develop a feel for the relationship between your hands, the work and the tool. Sharpening is a great way to develop this feel, although I will admit it took time to learn and sometimes I have a bad day when a jig might be helpful.
 One of the things I like about the Norton waterstones is that they are abrasive enough to cut quickly, but soft enough to provide useful feedback while sharpening. Some people may find the #4000- and #8000-grit stones to be too soft; it is possible to poke a corner of the tool into the stone. When I learned to sharpen, I was taught to try and take a slice off the stone with the tool. In the six months that I've been using these stones, I've learned to be less heavy-handed and apply more pressure coming back than going forward. I start to sharpen by putting the primary bevel flat on the stone.
 I then raise the handle of the tool a bit to make the secondary bevel a few degrees steeper. I lock my wrists and move the edge back and forth in as straight a line as I can. Swinging with my shoulders while keeping my elbows and wrists locked works for me. I'm not picky about the exact angles involved; I've found if I'm in the neighborhood, the tool will work. With the Norton waterstones, if I'm applying too much pressure to one side or if I'm at too steep of an angle, I'll remove a tiny divot from the surface of the stone. This annoyed me at first, but now I feel that it is making me a better sharpener.
Bringing the stones back to a flat surface is quick work with the flattening stone, and the stones are 1" thick. It would take a truly obsessive sharpener a long time to wear one out, but it is possible. My conclusion is that Norton has reached a good compromise with the composition of these stones. They cut fast, leave a keen edge and can be easily maintained. Having the complete set in one handy box that fits in a small space is a plus. The kit sells for around $200 from many retailers, and is also available with oilstones instead of waterstones. I think it's an excellent solution for sharpening. And if you need the jig, there's room to store it in the bottom of the box.
-- Bob Lang
Read other entries by Robert W. Lang | Read other Tool Tests
3/17/2008 4:20:42 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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 Friday, February 29, 2008
Of Interest to Arts & Crafts Fans
The other day I was e-mailing back and forth with a Japanese guitarist who was kind enough to share some of his arrangements with my son. He mentioned how interesting it was that the internet has made it possible to make friends with people from different parts of the world and different walks of life-all that's needed is a common interest. It reminded me of how fortunate I feel to be part of a growing community. I thought I would share some of the work and websites of people I've met online who share an interest in Arts & Crafts furniture. Some of these I've met in person and the rest I look forward to meeting. A few of these will be familiar to our readers, because they've written articles for Popular Woodworking.
 This dining room set, based on the Greene & Greene originals in the Gamble house was made by Darrell Peart. Darrell Peart wrote an article for our November 2007 issue about an unusual table he found while researching his book Greene & Greene: Design Elements for the Workshop. In addition to his writing and full-time furnituremaking, Darrell started a Yahoo! discussion group about Greene and Greene furniture. This group is an amazing resource, with an extremely knowledgeable membership. Darrel has just moved to a new shop, and you can take a 360-degree tour of it here.
 I met David Mathias when he purchased a set of plans from my website and had some questions about building a bow arm Morris chair. I asked him to send some pictures when he was finished, and I was impressed with his work. David has had two articles published in Popular Woodworking, a Greene & Greene inspired chest in the April 2008 issue and Greene and Greene drawer construction in the February 2007 issue. David maintains a blog and we're in the planning stages of some future articles on Greene and Greene furniture that will appear later this year.

One of my favorite Arts & Crafts designers is Harvey Ellis and my book on Ellis Inlay designs resulted in my acquaintance with Ron Cossner. That's Ron's work in the picture above, and a visit to his website is well worth your time. Look over the furniture and don't forget the furniture polish. Ron works a stone's throw away from Gustav Stickley's original factory, and he is one of the unsung heroes in the revival of interest in Stickley's work. He rescued a lot of important material and made sure it landed in safe hands.
 This is a reproduction of one of the Harvey Ellis inlays, made by Mitchell Andrus. Mitch is another accomplished furniture maker, and he was asked to reproduce the piano case at Craftsman Farms in New Jersey. These intricate inlays were originally introduced in 1903, and original versions are a rare and precious commodity as these versions of Craftsman furniture never made it beyond the prototype and sample stage. The addition of the inlays to Craftsman furniture really adds to the beauty and elegance of the work.
Mitch has used these in his own work, and has recently made many of the original patterns available online. These inlays are laser cut and preassembled and he also has matching stain stencils available for them. In the original Stickley pieces, the inlay work was done by an outside marquetry company and delivered to the Craftsman workshops in this same form. The inlay and background veneer are applied as a single piece of veneer, saving an incredible amount of time.
Guys like Darrell, David, Ron and Mitch are at the leading edge of Arts and Crafts reproduction work. My hat is off to them for successfully doing the work they do. Visit their sites and be inspired. I'll try to share more posts like this, and of course Popular Woodworking will continue to be the leader in presenting articles on building authentic Arts & Crafts furniture.
--Robert Lang
Read other entries by Robert W. Lang
2/29/2008 3:54:24 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)
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 Thursday, February 21, 2008
Cutting Corners-You Don't Need a Special Tool
I am planning to order a corner chisel, to use when I install hinges, and have seen several styles. Which do you prefer?

That's a question I received from a reader, and the picture above shows the scenario he's asking about. The piece of wood has a routed mortise with rounded corners. The corners need to be square for a hinge to fit, and the chisel he asks about is supposed to make this easy. As much as I like tools, this is one that nobody really needs. It's a crutch that will actually keep you from developing a simple skill. A plain old chisel will remove the excess wood in the corner quickly and easily.
 I routed the mortise deeper than normal to better show what happens with the chisel. The process works better if the layout lines are incised with a marking knife or gauge as well as a pencil. I recommend a mechanical pencil, but I don't recommend the girly color unless you have a teenage son who habitually picks up every pencil he sees.
The key to doing this is to use the back of the mortise cut by the router, or the incised layout lines as a guide to place and align the chisel. I line up the corner, then pivot the chisel back toward me so that it is against the back edge of the mortise.
 Making the actual cut is as simple as pivoting the chisel back down into the corner. The fingers of my left hand hold it in place while I push down on the end with my right hand. This is a finesse move, not a forceful one, and depending on the hardness of the wood it may take a few swings to reach the desired depth.
 Coming the other way, you often don't have enough of a straight edge to register the back of the chisel, but if the knife line is there, the edge of the chisel will fit. Again I start by putting the corner of the chisel on the corner of the mortise. When the back of the chisel is vertical, I plant my left hand to keep the chisel in line and push down with my right. This cut will offer more resistance, but a few seconds of pushing and wiggling make the cut.
 A little bit of junk will be left in the corner, and it's easily removed with a paring cut or two. Working toward the end allows you to push harder with the bevel of the chisel down. The paring cut can also be made with the bevel up, working at a right angle to the direction shown in the picture. The caution with that method is to push gently. There isn't much wood behind the mortise, and an agressive cut can split out the back.
 After you do this a few times it will become second nature, taking less time than it takes to describe the process. So save your money for the tools you really need.
--Bob Lang
Read other entries by Robert W. Lang
2/21/2008 3:29:57 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)
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 Monday, February 11, 2008
How Do You Hold a Drill?
The other day, Senior Editor Glen D. Huey came over to my desk with a small cordless drill/driver from Milwaukee Tools. Glen asked if I would try it out and write a review of it for an upcoming issue. I've been using similar driver/drills from Bosch for several months, and I like the concept of a small driver with good power and the new Lithium-ion battery technology. When I built custom cabinets on a daily basis, drilling holes and driving screws was probably the most repeated task. After lifting a relatively heavy 12v drill and driving tens of thousands of screws, my wrists have sustained some wear and tear, so for me, lighter is better.
Glen mentioned that he had heard one complaint about the new Milwaukee driver – that the forward and reverse switch was easy to bump inadvertently while using the drill. He picked up the drill and with his index finger on the trigger, showed me how the switch was up against his finger. I took the drill back, and held it the way I would in using it, with my middle finger on the trigger and my index finger extended. In the picture to the left, the switch is in between my two fingers. Glen mentioned that he never held a drill that way, and I told him I always hold one that way. Becoming curious about the difference, we did what we normally do when we have a disagreement about techniques. We got everyone in the office involved, handing people the drill and trying to get them to take sides.  Those of us who held the drill with the index finger extended compared it to the way a handsaw is held. Most saw totes are designed so that three fingers will fit, but four won't. This method offers several advantages that aren't immediately obvious until you try it. The wrist is more relaxed and less prone to stain. This more comfortable position leads to better control.  Japanese saws aren't really designed this way, but I find myself extending my finger anyway. The extended finger is, I think, one of the key elements to good hand/eye coordination. It makes a connection between the brain and the hand that moves the tool where you want it to go, and provides better feedback.  I hold a plane in a similar way, even though I'm not trying to hold it to a specific line. Extending the finger changes the angle between my hand and wrist, allowing for more finesse with a lighter touch. This is really an ingrained habit in me, so much so that I tend to grab everything this way. In the picture above I also have the index finger of my left hand extended. My only complaint about some of the planes we have in our shop is that there isn't an obvious place to rest the extended finger.  A drill isn't the only power tool I hold this way. I knew I extended my finger when using a jigsaw, as does contributing editor Troy Sexton, who recommended this technique in an article on using jigsaws in the October 2006 issue. If you click on the link, you'll see Troy holding the saw in a similar fashion. I decided to check through our photo archives to see other situations where I stick my finger out.  Here I am with a biscuit joiner, and I would be hard pressed to come up with an argument justifying the index finger position, other than it might be more comfortable to my wrist. Generally it is thought that the extended finger helps in aiming, and with certain tools that is obvious. In this case I think it may be just my habit.  Here is another example that surprised me, but this one I can rationalize. I'm cutting curves in the photo, carefully following a pencil line. I'm steering the work with my right hand, and the way I'm holding the wood gives a great deal of control without forcing the work through the blade. It's also easier to change my hand position as I near the end of the cut to keep my fingers out of the blade. If I had a death grip on the wood, and were pushing harder, the chances of damaging my digits at the end of the cut would be greater. So I've discovered I have a habit of holding things a certain way. It surprised me some that this is so pervasive, and it also surprised me that I may have a habit that isn't bad (as most of my habits are). This is a basic thing, something that most of us never think about. But if you struggle with controlling tools, or you tense up and your wrists get sore when you work, give it a try. Let me know how it works for you by leaving a comment.  I also hardly ever miss my mouth and pour coffee down the front of my shirt. At least when I'm holding the mug this way. -- Bob Lang Read other entries by Robert W. Lang
2/11/2008 11:25:37 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)
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 Thursday, January 17, 2008
A Proper Bench for Bob-Answers and Revisions
Because my last post generated a lot of response, I'm posting some more pictures of the bench I'm planning to build, and I'll answer some of the questions raised. A lot of the changes in the drawing below were in my head, but hadn't appeared in the drawing. The original post was a spur of the moment thing, motivated by Christopher Schwarz's response to a question on WoodCentral. My original plan was to build a near copy of a Nicholson bench, but as I thought about it, and saw the version that Chris built, I started making some changes.  The dog holes and quick-release vise have been moved closer to the front edge. I still need to work out the hole locations for the face vise. I've added a shelf between both sets of rails-simply adding cleats along the inside bottom edges of the rails and running planks across them. I think they'll work for keeping parts, clamps and other stuff handy without hiding them away, or interfering with the holdfasts. The tool trays are simple boxes that rest on another set of cleats along the bottom edge of the two top slabs. I'm planning on some stubby dowels in the cleats-holes in the top and bottom edges of the boxes will fit over the dowels to keep the boxes in place.  The bench is designed to be disassembled. The top pieces bolt down to
two end assemblies, the upper rails with the half lap dovetails will
bolt to the legs, and the lower rails are a wedged dovetail that I saw
on a drawing of an older Nicholson bench. If (or when) the rail to leg connections loosen, I can reach down and smack the wedge in to tighten things up. I'm curious to see often this will need to be done. With the wedge removed, the end of the rail lifts up and out of the leg. The top rail's face is flush with the leg, an important part of the "clamp to the front" scheme.  This view from below shows the "round thing". It's actually a cam screwed into the leg and turning it will raise or lower the planing stop. This is another detail I lifted from an old drawing, and I'm curious to see if it works. I expect there will be some fiddling with it to get it to work the way I think it should. Thanks for all the comments and questions, it's nice to get feedback from readers before a project as well as after. --Bob Lang Read other entries by Robert W. Lang
1/17/2008 2:39:22 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)
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 Tuesday, January 15, 2008
A Proper Bench for Bob
In Christopher Schwarz's new book Workbenches: From Design & Theory to Construction & Use, Chris talks about Thomas Stangeland's working on a makeshift bench. My story is quite similar. Although I've made my living (if you call that living) as a woodworker for more than 30 years, I've never worked on a nice bench on a regular basis. The closest I've come was a maple butcher-block slab on a 2 x 4 base with a quick-release vise. Most of the time, it's been something makeshift and I employ some novel ways of holding work – plane stops stuck down with narrow crown staples, clamps holding clamps holding the work, and I've even been known to sit on things to keep them in place. It's about time I had the bench I've always wanted, and I've been working off and on drawing one for about a year. I'm close to a final design and I'll be building it for an upcoming article in Popular Woodworking. 
Here is what I have in mind, a combination of features that appeal to me and fit the way I work. It has some similarities to the benches you've seen in Popular Woodworking and Woodworking Magazine in the last couple years, with a few twists. Like the Roubo bench, the legs are flush with the front of the 3"-thick top. It also has some details lifted from the Nicholson bench. I've moved the apron that is prominent in the Nicholson down and left a gap between it and the top. This will allow me to clamp stuff to the front of the bench, and still reach in to clamp things down to the top.
In the center are four removable, reversible boxes. These will function as tool trays, but when they fill up with junk they can be removed for cleaning, or reversed to fill the area between the two long slabs of the top. I'm hoping this is a viable solution to my love/hate relationship with tool trays. The other advantage of taking them out at times is to provide yet another place to clamp to. I'll also be able to slide drawer boxes over an end of one of the outer sections to work on them before the bottoms go in.
So let me know what you think. Suggestions are welcome – you can leave a comment here or send me an e-mail. I'm still deciding some issues; I haven't yet settled on vises and I'm thinking of adding a shelf at both the bottom rails and at the bottom of the rails across the front. No cabinets though – that's a separate project I need to get back to. Everyone else in the shop is tired of working around the face frame I made last summer.
--Bob Lang
Read other entries by Robert W. Lang
1/15/2008 11:43:04 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)
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 Thursday, January 10, 2008
And Where Do You Put Your Hand?
One of my favorite woodworking books is Cabinetmaking and Millwork by John L. Feirer. I listed it as one of my three choices for "Must Have Woodworking Bibles" in the Autumn 2006 issue of Woodworking Magazine. It was a high-school shop textbook; my well-worn copy carries a copyright date of 1967, and it is an incredible source of jigs, fixtures and techniques for using woodworking machines. I know I'm not the only one who values this book because many of the jigs described in its pages appear over and over again in other books and in magazines, published after this book.  Nearly all of the jigs and methods in the book are safe, efficient time savers. In my way of thinking, this is what a jig should do. If it takes longer to make the jig than to perform the process another way, what is the point of the jig? One of my gripes about most jig articles is that they give the impression that building the jig will replace the need to develop the skill needed to complete the task at hand. In my experience, you need at least as much skill (often more) to make a workable jig than to go jigless and just make the thing. The jig exists to make a repetitious task less of a chore, and a potentially dangerous task safer. A jig can't make you more capable than you are. Tapering legs is a case in point, and the illustration on the left, from Cabinetmaking and Millwork, is an excellent example of a jig gone horribly wrong. I googled "table saw tapering jig" and came up with 9,650 images. About half of them were variations on this jig, including several commercially made ones. The other half of the images were a collection of generally complicated ways to work around the problems inherent in this device. This subject came up the other day at lunch. Chris, Glen and I were out visiting a local reader's shop, and the reader mentioned that he had a method for tapering legs using a jig he made and his surface planer. His motivation? He didn't like the table saw jig shown here. None of us like the jig either, and we each have a quick, reliable method to taper legs. Glen uses the jointer, and there is a video of his technique on the " Videos" page of the web site. Chris (as you might guess) cuts them on the band saw and removes the saw marks with a handplane, and I use a simple sled on the table saw that takes about five minutes to make, is simple to set up and keeps my hands a safe distance away from the saw blade. So what don't we like about the ubiquitous jig shown above? As commonly illustrated, it is only good for short legs with large tapers. Make one long enough to put a 3/8" taper on a dining-table leg and you'll have an unwieldy mess dancing in the air a couple feet behind the saw. There isn't a good way to hold the work to the jig and the jig against the saw's fence at the same time. And, if you get far enough along to begin the cut, where will your pushing hand be at the end? Apparently, the model for the drawing wasn't quite sure on his first two or three attempts at using this thing. The four people at lunch the other day were each in possession of 10 fingers, many years of woodworking experience, and enough common sense not to order the fish. There are a couple things we've been doing here at Popular Woodworking to stop the repeated publication of dubious jigs and techniques. Just because something has been in print doesn't mean it's a good idea. We question these things, try them in our shop, and if they don't work we're willing to say "the Emperor isn't wearing any clothes." Our new column "Jig Journal", which premiered in our August 2007 issue, is dedicated to showing simple, effective jigs. In our November issue, Marc Adams began a seven-part series of articles on "A Better Way to Work." As the owner of the largest woodworking school in the country, Marc is especially concerned about safety, and this series is not a rehash of the same old rules. We're proud to publish this type of article and think that's what makes us a little different. We hope you do, too. -- Bob Lang Read other entries by Robert W. Lang
1/10/2008 11:33:54 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)
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 Friday, January 04, 2008
Tool Test: Craftsman Three-base Router Kit
In our June 2007 issue we reviewed two-base router kits. You can read the full review in Adobe PDF format by clicking here. One of the routers in the test, from Craftsman, was nearly identical to the router from Bosch. As summer ended, we began to get calls and e-mails from readers telling us that the Craftsman router was not to be found. Following up, we learned that Sears had discountinued this model, and would be replacing it with a similar router in a three-base kit, including a D-handle base along with the plunge base and standard base. We've had the new router in our shop for a few weeks, and here are my impressions of it, comparing it to the earlier kit and the other routers we tested.
 The price of this kit is around $200, similar to other tools in the group, and the same as the previous kit. The motor had plenty of power, but it was louder and had more vibration than the earlier one. The on/off switch can't be reached without taking a hand off the tool. It also has an electronic soft-start feature that takes several seconds to reach operating speed. The motor housing is flat on top, so it will sit upside down on the bench when changing bits. A spindle lock engages with a pin for one-wrench bit changes. Changing bases was relatively easy, but with the fixed bases, the fine adjustment override has to be pushed in before clamping the motor in place. The override also needs to be pushed to remove the motor. When this is done with the motor unclamped, the motor will drop if you're not holding on to it. The plunge mechanism has a strong spring, works smoothly and locks by pulling the lever down. The fine depth adjustments are a little sloppy on all three bases, and can be reached from above for adjustments when mounted in a router table. Unclamping the motor to use the fine adjustment changes the height slightly, so zeroing in to a final measurement can be awkward. The base plates hold standard template guides and are made from a clear plastic that is flexible and not quite flat. All in all the router would have rated in the bottom half of the group we tested. There are some nice extra features; vacuum attachments, an LED work light and a decent fence. If having the third base is more important than the quirks, it might be considered a good value. More information on this tool is available from Craftsman.— Bob Lang Read other entries by Robert W. Lang | Read other Tool Tests
1/4/2008 10:40:30 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)
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 Monday, December 03, 2007
Greene & Greene Make a Rare Appearance in the Midwest
I always used to make fun of my late brother, Jim, when he would tell me about getting up in the middle of the night to drive hundreds of miles to go bass fishing. He never was interested in woodworking, and I never cared for fishing, although I can see the appeal of going out in a boat to drink beer. But on Saturday morning I felt Jim's ghost give me a nudge in the ribs as I set out at 5 a.m. to drive 300 miles to see a chair. I realized that he didn't go to catch just any fish, and I wasn't on my way to see just any chair. I was after a big one, a Greene & Greene chair coming up for auction in the Chicago suburb of Oak Park, Ill.
We all have passions that will lead us to do things most people consider nutty. I saw making this trip as a perfectly sensible thing to do. The opportunity to see this chair, and several other Arts & Crafts pieces at close range, would make the long day worthwhile. I put on an Allison Kraus CD and let her break my heart before the sun came up as I drove toward Indianapolis.
In Indy, I tuned in a Chicago radio station for a weather report. A storm was headed that way: Rain in the late afternoon turning to a wintry mix and then 3" or 4" of snow. I grew up in the snow belt of Northeastern Ohio and don't mind a little snow, but I didn't want to get stuck in Chicago traffic. My plan was to head for home when it started to rain. The people at the auction gallery were incredibly nice. They allowed me to take all the pictures I wanted, and I promised not to make a pest of myself and not to knock anything over. One of the workers pulled aside the velvet ropes and turned the chair around a couple times so I could get the shots I wanted. The chair was made for Belle Barlow Bush, to go in the living room of the house she rented that was originally built for William Bolton. The chair is much simpler than the other pieces I have seen from that house, and it has an interesting mix of details. The lower stretchers are similar to the tall Bolton Hall chair, but the back details are an understated combination of curves and cloudlifts. It isn't as spectacular as some of the inlaid chairs from the Ford, Gamble or Blacker Houses, but it isn't the kind of thing you get to see without taking a trip to California. The gallery was crowded with many fine examples of Arts & Crafts and modern furniture. There were several excellent pieces by Gustav Stickley and his brothers, as well as some Frank Lloyd Wright, Hans Wegner and George Nakashima. I can't think of any museum where this much great stuff can be seen at one time, in one place.  And that's what I like about an auction like this. Furniture is treated like furniture. You can take a close look, peek around the back or underneath and sometimes even open a door or drawer without setting off an alarm. The pieces on display can run the gamut from museum quality on down and there will always be a pleasant surprise or two. Seeing the details, how things are put together, how they fit and how they've held up over a 100 years is an unforgettable experience, worth some effort to get there and back home. After noon, the crowd of people in the gallery increased, and I decided that the 150 or so photos I had taken were probably as many as it was possible to take. I took another loop through the auction house to enjoy the pottery, metalwork and glass, and decided to take a walk around Oak Park and find a place to eat lunch. As I crossed the street trying to decide between gyros or pizza for lunch it began to snow. The wind picked up and I decided maybe I should call it a day and head home. This turned out to be a less than brilliant move on my part. I was feeling smart as I passed through downtown Chicago and headed east. It was really snowing hard when I hit Gary, Ind. I stopped to fill the gas tank, thought about getting lunch, but decided to wait until I was a bit further south and out of the weather. The radio said that it was above freezing and clear in Indianapolis so I headed that direction.  The snow turned to rain and I thought I was in the clear until the rain turned to ice and the interstate turned into a parking lot. Traffic slowed and ground to a halt and I spent the next four hours sitting in one spot, watching a police car or tow truck crawl by on the shoulder every 20 minutes or so. Eventually we moved again, I finally ate lunch after dinner time and the five-hour drive up became a 10-hour drive back. Things like this happen, but when you spend the day doing your favorite things these things don't matter that much. I'll forget the time spent sitting and remember the things I saw. --Bob Lang Read other entries by Robert W. Lang
12/3/2007 1:50:09 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)
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 Friday, November 16, 2007
Leigh Dovetail Jigs and 60 Readers
Last night we opened the doors of our offices and shop, set up the buffet table and put on our official Popular Woodworking shirts. Matt Grisley, CEO of Leigh Industries came to town with a pile of dovetail and mortise and tenon jigs. We emptied out the router locker, let the caterer in the back door and waited for company to arrive.
 One of the largest crowds we've ever had showed up and after dinner we headed back to the shop. Matt showed us the ins and outs of his company's jigs, including the new Super Jigs. These jigs have many of the features of the original D4R jigs for making variable space dovetails with a router. They cost less, and allow for variable spaced tails with fixed width pins. Senior Editor Glen Huey had been to the Leigh Industries headquarters a few months ago, and filed a detailed report here on the blog. One of the impressive new accessories is a Vacuum router support that fits all of the old and new Leigh jigs. This was especially appreciated by those of us who spent the morning cleaning up the shop and sweeping the floor.
Matt also demonstrated the Leigh FMT mortise and tenon jig and its capability to make adjustments to the fit in .001" increments. That's not a frown on Matt's face, that's the way Canadians say "pretty good fit, eh?".

To close out the evening, we pulled names from a hat, and Phil Kline, Ken Maurer and Eric Bosch each went home with a new Super Jig. We hold these events from time to time, and have some interesting ones in the works for next year. We can't mention any names at the moment, but one will be a rock-solid approach to machinery and the other will be a sure-fire method of cutting joints by hand. If you sign up for our E-mail Newsletter on the home page, you'll be among the first to know about the next event. -Bob Lang Read other entries by Robert W. Lang
11/16/2007 2:17:21 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)
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 Tuesday, November 13, 2007
Workbenches Book Review
Christopher Schwarz’s new book “Workbenches: from Design & Theory to Construction & Use” isn’t like other books on the subject. And that’s precisely the reason this work is a must-have for anyone interested in building a workbench. Other books on the subject show different forms of benches and the necessary accoutrements for using them, but they don’t offer much help in deciding which options are right for you. This book, in contrast, offers a real education in the whys and hows of what can often be confusing choices.
A good book will get you thinking and maybe starting on a daydream or two. A great book will change your thinking and empower you to launch into action. That is exactly what this book does. With a studious review of historic forms and common theories, Schwarz has the knack of explaining why they did it the way they used to; he then raises the questions of what will likely happen if you follow an historic form, or decide to veer off in another direction. Rather than presenting information in a pompous “this is the way you should do it” manner, this book works by posing questions about the way you work, and provides solutions based on how you answer.
In addition to the thorough discussion of bench styles and forms, there is an incredible amount of detailed information about using a bench as a valuable tool and helpful shop assistant. Holding the work to the bench is an important part of this, and this is covered completely. Vises, holdfasts, dogs and other accessories are explained both in historic context and in terms of contemporary use. Schwarz has done his research, and he’s also gone out to the shop, put these things together and tested them to see how they work.
In addition, his personality comes through the pages which makes this an entertaining
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