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# Monday, November 02, 2009
Stanley and Black & Decker to Merge

The Wall Street Journal just reported that Stanley Works and Black & Decker are merging in an all-stock deal valued at $4.5 billion. Black & Decker shareholders will get 1.275 shares of Stanley for each Black & Decker share they own, and Stanley will own 50.5 percent of the newly create company. To read the “Journal” post, click here. There's a longer story on the merger here, at 247WallSt.

— Megan Fitzpatrick


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Monday, November 02, 2009 4:52:18 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [2] 
A Peek Ahead at the December Issue

Discover our picks for the 12 Best New Tools of 2009 in the December issue of Popular Woodworking – if you’re a subscriber, you should be getting the new issue any day now (it will be available on newsstands late next week).

While I can’t reveal the Best New Tools here, I can tell you that it’s a good year for small makers (though some major manufacturers won kudos as well). Here’s one hint (for those of you who have been reading the blog throughout the year): Christopher Schwarz got the first of these in, and Glen Huey and I each placed an order within days of using Chris's (and in a reversal of traditional gender color dichotomies, mine is blue; Glen's is pin...er...red).

Also in the December issue:
• Compact 12-volt Drill/Drivers – we test six to see which one bores and screws the best – for the best price. (They’re pictured above, if you care to take a guess as to the Editor’s Choice winner.) And, read about 18v drill/drivers here to compare them to their smaller, lighter cousins – and see which is right for you.

• An elegy for Sam Maloof – John Economaki writes about his friendship with this maker of iconic, elegant furniture

• An elegy for James Krenov – Ron Hock remembers one of the most influential woodworking writers in recent history

• Bibliophile’s Bookcase – This large, Shaker-inspired bookcase provides plenty of book storage, with two drawers to boot

• Build a Boomerang – Making a boomerang (or a bunch of them) is simple and fast – and these fun projects will set your head spinning

• Shooting Boards – Small work is safer and easier to size when you work with a handplane and a ell-made shooting board

• Seamless Curved-panel Glue-ups – With careful layout, you’ll be able to hide seam on even the widest panels, even when the grain throws you a curve.

Plus, an “I Can Do That” recycling station, an inside looks at a Pennsylvania Spice Box in Arts & Mysteries, finishing with Gel Varnish and much more.

— Megan Fitzpatrick


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Monday, November 02, 2009 1:18:53 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [1] 
# Friday, October 16, 2009
New Yankee Workshop Closing its Doors

Norm Abram sat down with Publisher Steve Shanesy at the July 2007 AWFS show in Las Vegas

We've just received a press release stating that, after 21 seasons, The New Yankee Workshop is ceasing production. Host Norm Abram will, however, remain on PBS on the This Old House series.

"We've had a great run, built challenging projects, met wonderful woodworkers, and received loyal support from millions of viewers," stated Norm Abram, in the release.

The New Yankee Workshop web site will remain available online.

— Megan Fitzpatrick



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Friday, October 16, 2009 3:05:15 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [10] 
# Thursday, October 15, 2009
How We Have Fun: Offending Our Coworkers

Yesterday, Glen Huey squeezed out equal amounts of Old Brown Glue and Titebond liquid hide glue onto two glass plates, then we walked around the offices accosting F+W employees, thrust the plates under their noses, and said, “Here – smell this!” We got some strange looks – especially when I whipped out the camera. But most people were game, even though Glen prefaced the sniff test with, “Which one smells worse?” Now if a stranger (we don’t get out of our area much) walked up to me with unidentified brown gooey stuff on a plate and said, “Which one smells worse,” I’m pretty sure I’d recoil and decline to participate. But just about everyone was game, and the results were surprising.

Glen is working on a liquid hide glue story for the Winter 2009 Woodworking Magazine (on newsstands Dec. 15), and one objection we’ve heard to hide glue is that it has a rather noticeable and pervasive scent (though that’s usually in reference to cooking hot hide glue). So, we were trying to get a consensus on which liquid hide glue was most offensive on an olfactory front, just for fun. Among the woodworking staff members, 100 percent picked Old Brown Glue as the most redolent.

We then took the test to the staffers for our art and writing magazines, a couple support staff people, IT and creative services. Among the non-woodworkers, Titebond was the smelliest. I don’t know what that tells us…except that if you’re on a date with a woodworker, go for eau de Titebond.

— Megan Fitzpatrick


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Thursday, October 15, 2009 11:53:01 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [6] 
# Thursday, October 08, 2009
About to Lose My Title...

I'm the smallest person in our shop, yet I inevitably gravitate toward the largest projects. For the February 2009 issue of Popular Woodworking, I built a Shaker-inspired stepback that serves as a flat-screen entertainment center. Then, I decided it looked lonely in the living room, and built a Shaker-inspired case-on-case shelving unit with two drawers in the bottom. That one will be in the December issue of Popular Woodworking (which hits newsstands in the middle of November). Both of them are 7-1/2 feet tall (which is key, because it means I don't have to dust the top – no one can see it).

But Chris is currently building a 13'-long walnut bench, which is a replica of an original from the White Water Shaker Village meeting house. The project will be featured in the Winter 2009 issue of Woodworking Magazine (on newsstands in mid-December). And after watching him wrestle with 13' boards (and serving as his outfeed table), I think I'll stick to 8' and under. Chris, the large-project title is yours.



— Megan Fitzpatrick


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Thursday, October 08, 2009 2:27:30 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [4] 
# Monday, October 05, 2009
Congratulations to the Hand Tool Olympics Winners, and Many Thanks to Our Sponsors

Among the many entertaining and informative activities at the Woodworking in America: Hand Tools & Techniques conference was the Hand Tool Olympics, run by the Society of American Period Furniture Makers. In a booth set up in the marketplace, attendees got to test their hand-tool skills against competitors – or learn a new skill. I, for example, had never ripped a piece of rough lumber until this weekend. Thanks to Dean Jansa and Mike Siemsen (who were staffing the booth at the time along with Mark Arnold), I now know how…though I need a great deal of practice. I also saw a young man of perhaps 12 years old cut his first set of dovetails, with a helping hand from Dean – and the dovetails were quite good (which goes to show what you can do when you have no fear of failure).

First, thanks to the event sponsors, who provided tools for the participants to use, and for the winners:
Lee Valley and Veritas for the low-angle jointer planes for the Shooting Sports
Mike Siemsen School of Woodworking for the rip saws (sharpened by Mark Harrell at Technoprimitives) for the One-Meter Dash and for the crosscut saws (also sharpened by Mr. Harrell) for the Crosscut Extravaganza event.
Mid-West Tool Collectors Association for the 10"-sweep braces for the Brace Yourself For a Hole in One event.
Bad Axe Tool Works for the backsaws used for Greco-Roman Tenons event.
Di legno Woodshop Supply for the marking knives and mallets for the Pins First or Tails First event.

And now, the champions and raffle winners in each category:
One-meter Dash (a 36” rip cut through 1 x12): Champion Roger Wicks; raffle winner Jeff Hildebrand
Shooting Sports (square a ripped edge with a jointer plane): Champion Lowell Johnson; raffle winner Paul Dzioba
Crosscut Extravaganza (crosscut a piece of 1 x 12): Champion Paul Arnold; raffle winner David Gilbert
Brace Yourself for a Hole in One (bore a ¾ hole in a piece of 2 x): Champion Bryce Gardner; raffle winner Emily Bonham
Pins First or Tails First (hand-cut a 3-pin dovetail joint): Champion Warren Mickley; raffle winner Andrew Hartley
Greco-Roman Tenons (3"-long, 3/4"-thick tenon on 2x4): Champion Graham Hughes; raffle winner Howard Steier.

And yes, that's Arts & Mysteries author Adam Cherubini in the picture, trying his hand at the One-meter Dash. Even had Adam been eligible to win, Roger Wicks beat him handily.

Thanks again to our Hand Tool Olympic sponsors, and thanks to all of you who came to the conference. And for those of you who couldn't make it this time, there are more stories and pictures to come.

— Megan Fitzpatrick


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Monday, October 05, 2009 12:41:35 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [4] 
# Tuesday, September 29, 2009
Hung and Done

When I told Christopher that I had finished making and painting my screen door, had hung it and added the hardware, he asked to see a picture. I didn't have one. "No picture? Didn't happen," he said.

Did too.

I ended up using three 3" cabinet hinges instead of traditional screen door hinges, simply because the leaves were narrow enough to fit the application. But I used 3" screws on the door frame, and 3.5" screws on the jamb. That door isn't going anywhere. I went traditional on the handle hardware, using a reproduction latch from House of Antique Hardware. I'd never installed a tube latch before, but I didn't have too much trouble (other than finding a 3/4" bit in our shop that didn't look like it had been gnawed upon).

The hardest thing was fitting the door to the frame. As you can see, the house is old. Nothing is square. Nothing is level. Nothing is easy. And, because I used 3.5" screws that I didn't feel like taking out and putting back time and again, and I don't have a bench at home, I thought it would be easier to fit with the door hanging. Sigh. But, after a little (OK, a lot) of work with my trusty block plane and a float, I got it swinging pretty.

So Chris, here's your ocular proof.

— Megan Fitzpatrick


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Tuesday, September 29, 2009 7:45:53 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [6] 
# Monday, September 28, 2009
Single Session Tickets Available for Woodworking in America

Glen Huey is picking up a trailer tomorrow morning, then we’re loading the workbenches up for the trip to Valley Forge, Pa., for the Woodworking in America: Hand Tools & Techniques conference Oct. 2-4. We’re bringing Christopher Schwarz’s Roubo and Holtzapffel benches, my Gluebo and Bob Lang’s 21st-Century Workbench. First, though, we have to clean them off. (I was going to pick on Bob here – that’s his bench pictured above – but frankly, mine’s not a whole lot cleaner at the moment).

There’s still time to register for the full conference (and there are still a few $100 shopping sprees for the WoodworkersBookShop.com available for full-conference registrants). But if you have only a limited amount of time, you can purchase Single Session passes on site for $35 each. That means you can spend an hour or three in the marketplace (for which admission is free), then take in a class with Roy Underhill, Toshio Odate, Chris Schwarz, Mike Wenzloff or any of the other hand-tool gurus we have lined up for the conference. Check out the schedule here.

We hope to see you in Valley Forge. Now I’m off to clean my bench.

– Megan Fitzpatrick


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Monday, September 28, 2009 1:00:08 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [4] 
# Monday, September 21, 2009
The 'Gluebo' in Use – Awesome

The “Gluebo” has been put through its workholding paces lately as I’ve been working on a 33" x 84-1/2" screen door for my house. I stayed after work on Friday to rout a 1/2" x 1/2" rabbet in which the screen panels will seat, and my bench is plenty long enough to securely clamp the door between the end vise and a bench dog to hold it in place for routing. I did, I admit, have a frisson of trepidation about routing on my new bench before we get to show it off at Woodworking in America next week (routing is not my strong suit; I’m always fearful of tipping the router base and ruining my workpiece, the bench, my hands…). But, because the long edges of the door hung off the sides of the bench, I didn’t have too much fear until I got to the ends. But no problem – I just moved slowly and carefully, and all went well.

Also, while I’ve been vocal about wanting to move my bench against a wall (it would be nice to have easily accessible hanging tool storage), it was easy to walk around the bench as I routed; I didn't have to move the bench, or reposition my work. (Now that I’m done with that though, I’m eyeing a wall space again).

Then, I clamped the screen door into the leg vise with support from the board jack to trim the tenons and wedges flush at the through-mortises. Rock solid.

And as you can see, the large bench also came in handy for painting; I used Painter’s Pyramids to lift the door off the benchtop, and again was able to walk around the entire thing to easily get a coat on. Now it just needs a few more coats of paint to help it defy the elements.

When it came to attaching screen to my mitered frames, I was able to secure the interior of the frame across a bench dog and the adjustable “Wonder Pup” from Veritas, which allowed me to stretch the screen across the frame for stapling, without having to worry about flexing the frame as I pulled the screen snug.

All in all, I have nothing but love for my new LVL bench…except that it looks “pink” in a lot of photos. It’s actually a deep brown/red – the color of dried blood (I bloodied my knuckles on the “Pet Screen” – that stuff is seriously tough – and briefly thought about wiping it onto one of the legs. But I opted for a clean shop rag).

The bench will be featured in the November 2009 issue of Popular Woodworking (mailing to subscribers now, and on newsstands the second week of October). You can see a video tour of the bench here. Plus, we’ll be hauling it to Valley Forge for Woodworking in America: Hand Tools and Techniques, Oct 2-4 — and we've extended the "Early-Bird Discount through Sept. 27.

— Megan Fitzpatrick


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Monday, September 21, 2009 1:30:55 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [10] 
# Saturday, September 19, 2009
A Woodworking Relief

I've been (slowly) working on a mortise-and-tenon screen door for the front of my Victorian house; I wrote a few days ago about the construction. Late on Friday afternoon, I routed a 1/2" x 1/2" rabbet in which to seat the screen inserts, and I put together the screen frames. The plan is to go into the office/shop tomorrow and paint the frames, then tack on the screening (I've no idea how to do that – I'm leaning toward wire staples, but if you have suggestions...).

First, however, I thought I'd best pull off the existing aluminum screen door and framing, and see what horrors were hidden underneath. The last few owners of this house did some, uh, interesting installation and repair jobs; I'm always bemused/shocked/terrified/disheartened by what I uncover when I pull up carpets, replace trim, etc. Under the screen-door framing, I fully expected to find rotting and/or missing trim; terrible, multiple attempts at hinge mortises; and who knows what else. I was prepared to spend at least a day prepping and repairing the jamb before I could even think about fitting and installing my new door.

A former owner, the guy who installed the aluminum screen door, is a bonehead (and Steve B., If you're reading this, I'd say the same to your face). Down one side, he used nails instead of screws, and in the intervening years, said nails got covered with eleventy billion layers of caulk. Ugh. But once I scraped off the caulk and levered the nails out from the backside of the framing, I was able to get at them with nail pullers. That, however, is going to be the worst part of the job. 

The original trim is in remarkably good shape; I won't have to match or repair any moulding at all. And, on the decorative moulding there's only a layer of two of...shellac? varnish? so the lines are still crisp; a gentle scraping is all it will take before I'm ready to paint.

Now I'm just hoping the new door goes in with as little trouble as the old one came out.

— Megan Fitzpatrick


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Saturday, September 19, 2009 1:02:44 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [1] 
# Friday, September 18, 2009
Keep a Pencil Sharpener Right at Your Fingertips

Sometimes, great woodworking tools come in very small packages – and at a very small price.

We just received a few samples of the “GripSharp,” a combination pencil grip and pencil sharpener that slides over the business end of any common pencil. With just a few twists, the sharpener removes wood from the pencil, but the blade doesn’t touch the graphite. While this leaves a long bit of the graphite extending past the supporting wood, you leave the GripSharp in place, and it supports the graphite.

If you pull the GripSharp off of the pencil, the marking end will look strange (and snap off easily), but why would you? The GripSharp provides a comfortable, ergonomic grip, and you’ll always have a sharpener handy – literally at your fingertips.

However, because the GripSharp removes only wood, it doesn’t provide a sharp pencil point on the graphite. So if you use a pencil for, say, marking out dovetails, you’ll still want a mechanical pencil (we like .5 mm, high-polymer graphite) on hand. But because it produces a thick point, the GripSharp is the ideal tool for turning any pencil into a marker for rough cuts.

It’s available in a range of colors, for only $2.89 each. For more information, visit the company’s web site (gripsharpco.com).

— Megan Fitzpatrick


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Friday, September 18, 2009 1:52:49 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [5] 
# Friday, September 11, 2009
Cheap Like Me? Make Your Own Screen Door

In the Sept. 9 e-mail newsletter, I included a small picture of my new LVL bench (featured in the upcoming November issue). On top of it was a wooden screen door I’m making to replace the nasty aluminum one I now have. I’m just excited that after four years with the magazine, I finally have a bench large enough, and with great workholding solutions, on which to make a 33" wide x 84" tall project. (I’m the smallest person in our shop, yet I habitually build the largest projects). Anyway, I got a surprising number of questions about the door – so here are the answers (and now I’m sorry I didn’t bother to take step photos).

First, I measured my door opening, then added a 1/4" or so to accommodate fitting the finished project – I expect that to be the most difficult part of the project, because in my 1895 house, nothing is square (or level, for that matter).

I decided to go with poplar, because I plan to paint the door with several coats of exterior-grade latex. Were I using a clear finish, I might have opted for teak, cedar or cypress, because they hold up well in exterior applications – though I’d have added a few layers of spar varnish for good measure. But poplar is cheap…and so am I, which is why I decided to make the door myself instead of ordering a custom one. But I did troll a lot of custom door sites for design inspiration.

I had to balance my plan decisions with the tooling available to me. I knew I wanted to use traditional wedged through-mortise construction, and we don’t have any 1/4" bits for the mortiser that can cut much beyond 2" deep. So I decided on 4" wide stiles. For visual balance, I also opted for 4" wide rails for the top and center, and a 6" bottom rail. Not only do the extra 2" at the bottom visually ground the door, the wider rail adds strength – and will hopefully discourage the cats (at least 2" worth of discouragement, anyway) from trying to jump through the screen to get at the many stray cats that hang around my porch (anyone want a cat? I have a few to spare – and they’re already altered. Seriously – I’ll even throw in a bag of free cat food).

So $38 later, I had a pile of 5/4 straight-grained poplar, ready to work. I milled it flat on the jointer and planer, cut the two stiles to length at 84" strong (yes, I’ve just slipped into carpenter jargon) and all the rails to length at 33" strong. I marked out the three mortises on each stile with a 3/4" shoulder at the top of the top rail and a 1" shoulder at the bottom of the bottom rail, and 1/2" shoulders for the rest. I really don’t know why – it just seems sensible that the two places at the outside edges that will bang hardest against the frame should have a stronger shoulder.

Then I set up the mortiser with a 1/4" bit, did my best to center it perfectly across the edge of my stock, and started plunging. I cut all three mortises on the first stile a little better than 2" deep, the flipped it end for end and cut them again – that way, if you don’t get the bit perfectly centered, the mortise still ends up in the center (if a little larger than you intended). Then I flipped it edge for edge, and followed the same procedure on the other side. The holes met in the middle (after I cleared the dust out with a screwdriver). Then I cut the mortises in the other stile, and took an ibuprofen break. (I have a bad right shoulder – mortising hurts. Wah.)

I measured the width of the mortise carefully, and set up the dado stack on the table saw to cut the 4"-long tenon faces (with repeated passes). Because the shoulders are inconsistent, I cut them by hand with a carcase saw, and cleaned up after my cuts with a chisel (I simply must work on my hand saw skills). A test fit revealed that two of my tenons were a wee bit fat, so I cleaned those up with a float (a shoulder plane would work, too). Once everything fit well with hand pressure, I eyeballed the middle of each tenon and cut a kerf.

Then it was over to the band saw to cut some long, narrow wedges from my poplar offcuts. I used an old toothbrush to spread glue on all surfaces of both the mortise and the  tenon, then fit all the joints together, and quickly moved on to the wedges. As I mentioned, I did a poor job of cutting the tenon shoulders by hand. So while the plan was to wedge the center of each tenon, the reality was that I had to wedge some of them at the top and/or bottom as well. I’m told this is actually a traditional approach…so yeah, I meant to do that. I checked for square then clamped it up to dry and went home for the day. The next day, I stopped in to take it out of the clamps and used Jameel Abraham’s new carbide-tipped "Skraper" to remove the squeeze-out. That little tool works like a champ (and for the moment, it’s available only at the Benchcrafted booth at the Oct. 2-4 Woodworking in America in Valley Forge, Pa. – admission to the marketplace is free, so come by and check it out).

Now, the door is stored against the back of my workbench. This weekend, I hope to find time to rout a rabbet for the screen inserts, make the screen frames, and decide on the hardware (which will be by far the most expensive part of the project).

— Megan Fitzpatrick


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Friday, September 11, 2009 3:04:51 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [5] 
# Tuesday, September 08, 2009
Join us for a Freud Tools Event at Whitewater Shaker Village

• What: A Backstage Pass to Whitewater Shaker Village and Freud Tools Demo
 • When: Saturday, Sept. 12. Freud demonstrations at 9 a.m. and 1 p.m.; tours of Village throughout the morning and early afternoon
 • Where: Whitewater Shaker Village, on Oxford Road between New Haven, Ohio and the Butler County Line (directions will be provided for those who RSVP to Megan Fitzpatrick)

Get a backstage pass to Whitewater Shaker Village and take a step back in time. Whitewater is the only one of four Ohio Shaker villages retaining most of its original buildings in their original settings. Nowhere else in the state is there such a significant collection of original Shaker buildings – 22 in all. These buildings, and the grounds on which they are built, represent the lives of those sincere, peaceful, hard-working people who believed that every labor was an act of religious expression and should be done to perfection.

For nearly 80 years, this once-thriving Shaker village (located northwest of Cincinnati) was nearly forgotten, but recently the Friends of Whitewater began the process to return Whitewater to its former glory. Buildings are being discovered, documented and renovated. It’s important for you to get a first-hand look at work in process as well as the potential the village has to offer.       

Freud Tools is sponsoring the event, and will have one of the company’ great mobile workshops on hand. In this fully equipped woodworking shop on wheels, Freud provides clinics and shares its commitment to training woodworkers about cutting tools and why innovation in cutting tools is important.

During the day, Freud representatives will present two woodworking clinics. In the first clinic Freud introduces its new Premier Adjustable Rail and Stile set. This router bit set allows woodworkers to mill tenons of any length – everything from stub tenons to wedged through-tenons. Long tenons translate into joints with more strength and as a result, your doors will stand up to years of use and could last forever.

The second clinic demonstrates the Freud way to create glass panel doors. There’s no better way to trick-out a cabinet or display case than to add glass doors. During the clinic, watch the entire process of creating glass doors from milling the stock to assembling the door to setting the glass and applying the glass stop.

Space is limited. Reserve your slot by sending an e-mail to Megan Fitzpatrick, and directions will be sent forthwith.

— Megan Fitzpatrick



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Tuesday, September 08, 2009 9:13:56 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [0] 
# Monday, August 31, 2009
Good Eats Near Valley Forge Woodworking in America Conference

Second only to our love of woodworking is our love of good food (OK – some of us would put that first, actually). So as we get ready for Woodworking in America: Hand Tools and Techniques (Oct. 2-4 in Valley Forge, Penn.), we asked some locals to weigh in on their favorites cuisine.

Mario Rodriguez, who’ll be teaching you to make better dovetailed drawers at the conference, has a couple favorites for filling out your drawers:

White Dog Cafe (Contemporary American)
This restaurant combines culinary influences from all the cultures that comprise the United States, and emphasizes quality wares from local sustainable farmers. The Café is located in the University City area of Philadelphia (about 24 miles from Valley Forge). I’ll take a double helping of the Artichoke Bacon Risotto (it’s a side dish).

Fork (New American Bistro Cuisine)
Awarded “three bells” by The Philadelphia Inquirer, the bistro emphasizes ingredient-driven seasonal and artisanal offerings. Put me down for the house-smoked pork chop with local peaches, and a side of herbed quinoa with olives. It’s about 26 miles from the conference…but traffic may make it an hour drive. Nonetheless, the menu reads like it might be worth the trip.

Chuck Bender, who’ll be teaching Inlay and Stringing, recommends:


Black Lab Bistro (American Casual Contemporary)
Chuck says this Phoenixville bistro (which is about 5 miles from Valley Forge) has the best food around, but he adds that it’s BYOB. I checked out the menu; Goat Cheese Gnocchi – I’m sold. The signature house dish sounds awfully good, too: pan-seared Duck Breast and Divers Scallops in a black currant sauce.

Iron Hill Brewery (American Cuisine)
This brewery is famous for its artisan beer (Senior Editor Glen D. Huey has had the pleasure of sampling more than one), with offerings ranging from a light lager to a tar-colored “Pig Iron Porter.” Plus, they have an award-winning selection of hand-bottled ales and lagers. The food sounds spectacular, too. (There’s even a handful of gluten-free offerings – but I’d be hard-pressed not to try the Steak Frites). The Iron Hill Brewery has several locations, but the closest seems to be in New Wales, about 18 miles from the conference site.

Tequilas (Upscale Mexican)
If a mouthful of Mexican spice is more up your alley, this restaurant offers tequila made on the premises. And Chuck says the restaurant interior is a real treat for woodworkers. I do love a good mole sauce, with a shot on the side…Tequilas is about 25 miles from Valley Forge.

• And let’s not forget the sandwich for which Philadelphia is famous. There’s no consensus as to where to find the best Philly Cheesesteak – Philly Pats and Geno’s are always a good bet, but Chuck votes for John’s in Frazer (27 miles). (Feel free to disagree with his choice in the comments.) Chuck's parting shot: “Try Tony Luke's for the best roast pork sandwich in the world” (about 28 miles from Valley Forge)

Adam Cherubini (the guy in the breeches and funny hat, who’ll be talking about joinery planes) likes:


Jessop’s Tavern, in New Castle, Del. (near Winterthur), where they have, and I quote, “Yummy shepherd’s pie.” He also recommends a walk through the town after dinner, especially in “The Strand” where many 18th-century houses offer a glimpse of what early Philadelphia was like (as long as you ignore the power plant across the water).

The City Tavern in Philadelphia, where the menu and dining experience is inspired by 18th-century Colonial America. Braised rabbit is a menu staple, and Adam heartily recommends the house-brewed beers.  It’s about 25 miles from Valley Forge.

Smith and Wollensky
While Adam says they have great burgers and split pea soup, he’s really sold on the Rittenhouse Square location (in the Rittenhouse Hotel, about 25 miles from Valley Forge). Adam writes, “Somewhere on the square lived David Deshler who commissioned (someone) to build a set of Chippendale chairs that Popular Woodworking readers should recognize.  (I suspect he’s referring to his year-long Chippendale Chair project – the final installment is in the November 2009 issue.)

Adam has one warning for those who venture into the city: “Unpaid parking tickets mature much faster than savings bonds.”

If you have Philly-area favorites, please post ‘em below!

— Megan Fitzpatrick


MySpace Countdown Clocks


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Monday, August 31, 2009 2:47:43 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [6] 
# Friday, August 28, 2009
Dig that Old Suede Skirt Out of Your Closet

Yes – it’s another post about my clothing purchases. Contain yourselves.

I loved this skirt. I bought it when I was 16 or 17 – when I apparently thought “sexy” was an ankle-length, gathered-waist suede skirt. (Nothing like being completely covered in cow hide to attract a young man, eh?) I wore it throughout college – but it seems to have shrunk. I haven’t been able to fit into it for 15 years (and I’m not sure I’d want to wear it now, anyway). But I hung onto it, moving it from apartment to apartment, and finally to the auxiliary closet in my house (where all my old clothes go to die).

But now, I’m glad I kept it. The buttery brown suede is just the thing for lining one’s vise faces (though the first cut was a little painful to make). Here’s how to do it (with thanks to Editor Chris Schwarz for the lesson – and for the record, those are his hairy knuckles in some of the pictures, not mine):

Measure the vise chop, then cut the suede to fit. If you can’t get it cut perfectly, it’s better to err on the side of a little small, as you don’t want bits of suede hanging over the edges of your vise chop.

Then, grab a sheet of wax paper and tape it in place opposite the chop’s face; this will keep the glue from sticking to the leg and top of your bench. Grab the yellow glue (though if you’re not afraid to mix your cows, hide glue would work, too), and squeeze a goodly amount onto the backside of the suede, and spread it out. Pay careful attention to the edges – that’s where it’s most important that you get enough glue for a good bond.

Now apply the sticky-backed leather to the face of your chop and smooth out all wrinkles. If your vise chop cinches tight along all its face to the benchtop and leg, go ahead and cinch it tight and let to glue set for an hour or so. If, as on my leg vise, you have a parallel guide that pivots the vise slightly toward the top edge of your bench, insert a block of wood that’s as deep as the suede-covered face, cover it with waxed paper, then cinch the vise tight (that way, you ensure equal pressure along the entire suede-glued face). You can also stretch painter’s tape across the suede to hold it tight while it dries.

After a half-hour to an hour, un-cinch the vise and scrape off any squeeze-out with a dull screwdriver, or some other implement that won’t tear the suede. Do this before the glue dries completely – you don’t want any bits of hardened glue on the vise; that could mar your work.

Now you’re ready to go to work – just after you hide the evidence – and hope your mother doesn’t read the blog post about your having cut up an expensive skirt…for which she probably gave you the money. 

Disclaimer: No cows were harmed in the making of this blog. They were harmed 25 years prior.

— Megan Fitzpatrick


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Friday, August 28, 2009 2:43:15 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [9] 
# Thursday, August 27, 2009
Hands-on Saw Sharpening Instruction at Woodworking in America

At last year’s Woodworking in America conference in Berea, Ky., the sessions that sold out the fastest were on saws and saw sharpening. So at this year’s Hand Tools and Techniques conference (Oct. 2-4 in Valley Forge, Penn.) we’re offering tons of opportunity to learn to sharpen your saws.

For those who register for the conference, there will be walk-in saw sharpening and sawing clinics in the Hands-on Bench Room throughout the weekend so that every one who signs up for the conference has a chance to find out how it’s done – and try it for him or herself.

We’ll have saw vises set up, and files and other accoutrements available, so that anyone who wants to can bring in their saws and learn how to hand-sharpen them, from the fleam to the rake to the set. Plus, we’ll have saws on hand for practice, in case you can’t bring your own. And if you need a lesson in saw use, we’ll be happy to provide that, too.

Saw experts Mike Wenzloff and Ron Herman will be demonstrating in the Hands-on Bench Room throughout the weekend (see the schedule for specific times – though both promise to be there additional hours as well). And when Mike and Ron are busy elsewhere, we’ll have the room staffed with experienced sawyers and sharpeners who can set you straight on all things saw related.

So if you are awash in dull saws, this is your best chance to watch the masters – and give it a try for yourself.

— Megan Fitzpatrick



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Thursday, August 27, 2009 3:53:57 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [0] 
# Wednesday, August 26, 2009
Woodworking in America: What Else to Do Near Valley Forge


Adam Cherubini volunteers in the Pennsbury Manor Joyner's Shop, demonstrating 18th-century hand tool techniques. (photo by Kari Hultman)

Set aside a little time before or after the Woodworking in America: Hand Tools and Techniques conference (Oct 2-4 in Valley Forge, Pa.)  – ‘cause really cool stuff is just an hours’ drive away.

Mercer and Fonthill Museums

The Mercer Museum, operated by the Bucks County Historical Society, is an unparalleled collection of objects from of everyday life in 18th- and 19th-century America – more than 40,000 tools and artifacts representing more than 60 early American trades including woodworking, shingle-making, printing and metalworking, plus numerous examples of early American furniture and folk art. At the Mercer, you’ll find one of the world’s best hand tool collections. Almost all of the 55 exhibit areas display the tools and products of early American craft, and life in the pre-industrial age.

The collection was amassed by Henry Mercer (1856-1930) and his house is also a museum on the same site. Fonthill Museum is a 44-room concrete castle with more than 200 windows, and an interior elaborately decorated with handcrafted tiles. Many of Mercer’s original furnishings and effects remain in the museum, which stands as a testament to Mercer’s vision.
Information (including directions from Valley Forge) about the Mercer Museum and Fonthill Museum can be found on the web.

Winterthur
Winterthur was the country estate of Henry Francis DuPont (1880-1969), which DuPont and his father designed in the style of 18th- and 19th-century English country estates. DuPont was an avid horticulturalist and antiques collector, and the gardens and furniture collection at the museum are spectacular. But perhaps the most incredible attraction of Winterthur (for woodworkers, anyway) is the Dominy family woodworking shop – a reconstruction of the shop used by four generations of craftsmen who worked in East Hampton, N.Y., from the mid 1700s to the mid 1800s. It’s an astounding array of tools (more than 800) in an original environment, which gives a glimpse at what it was like to be an American rural woodworker more than two centuries ago. For more information on Winterthur, visit its web site.

The Wharton Esherick Museum
This national historic landmark is an incredible architectural gem built from traditional materials in new forms, with curved stone walls, a multi-colored tower and a patchwork floor of wood scraps. Esherick built his studio during four decades, and his evolving artistic styles are reflected in the building’s design and details, all of which he crafted. Just before his death in 1970, Esherick spoke of his studio as an autobiography executed in wood. A guided tour through the museum reveals more than 200 pieces of the artist’s work, including sculptural wood furnishings. And on display from Sept. 13-Dec. 31, 2009 are selections from the museum’s 16th annual woodworking competition. This year’s exhibit, “Step Right Up,” features nine library ladders. For more information, visit the museum’s web site.

Pennsbury Manor
Pennsbury manor is the recreated home of William Penn (1644-1781), one of the founders and “Absolute Proprietors” of the Province of Pennsylvania. A member of the Quaker religion, Penn was an early champion of democracy and religious freedom who came to North America in 1682 as governor of Pennsylvania, and shortly thereafter began building his country home. After Penn’s death, the estate fell into disrepair and all visible traces of the original plantation has vanished.

From 1933 to 1942, the Pennsylvania Historical Commission reconstructed the site, including the Manor House, the outbuildings and the landscape, working from Penn’s original instructions and archeological evidence. Today, the home is open as a museum; and every Sunday, volunteer interpreters (including Popular Woodworking’s “Arts & Mysteries” author Adam Cherubini) dress in period clothing and present aspects of 17th-century life. You can often find Adam in the Joyner’s Shop. Visit the manor's web site for more information.

Photo courtesy of, Pennsbury Manor, administered by the Pennsylvania Historical and Museum Commission.

In addition to these and myriad other museums and historic sites in and around Valley Forge, there’s a wealth of shopping from the King of Prussia mall (the world’s largest retail mall) to chic Mainline Philadelphia boutiques, fall foliage tours, gourmet food (more on the food in a later post), music and more.

For comprehensive information on Valley Forge and the surrounding area, visit the Valley Forge Convention & Visitors’ Bureau web site and the Buck’s County web site.

And if you live in the Valley Forge area – or just know a little something about it – please leave additional suggestions in our comments, below.

— Megan Fitzpatrick


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Wednesday, August 26, 2009 12:38:39 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [4] 
# Monday, August 17, 2009
Trading Lingerie for Tools


A couple weeks ago, I bought a skirt and some, er, ladies undergarments. But they’ve been sitting in their bags, tags attached, since I brought them home. I guess I’ve just been too busy to put them away.

Recently, I’ve had to replace a washing machine, have my box gutters relined and have the house painted. But these somewhat-expected expenditures are not what’s undermining my clothes-purchasing habits. Last weekend, I crossed the woodworking Rubicon.  

With just enough discretionary funds to order the apron plane I’ve been wanting from Veritas, I packed up my car and drove to the Woodworking in America conference last weekend. At the first free moment I had, I hustled over to Wally Wilson in the Lee Valley booth and placed my order. Then, I walked back toward the Popular Woodworking booth to check in with Linda Watts, our art director, who was running the bookstore for the weekend. I stopped along the way to say hello and chat with other toolmakers and sellers, and struggled mightily to avoid looking too closely or covetously at the tables full of seductive wares.

Then I got to Dave Jeske’s Blue Spruce Toolworks booth. He had a lovely olive-green lignum vitae-handled fishtail chisel that I simply couldn’t resist. So I pulled out the credit card and scrawled my signature, and said I’d be back on Sunday morning to collect my new tool. So the skirt will have to be returned (it’s olive green, too, so that’s a even trade, right?). Dave also had a couple chisels with blue polymer-infused maple handles that would look great with the mallet I bought from him a few months back. But I already have chisels in both the sizes he had on hand, so I resisted that Siren’s song.

On Sunday, I went back to pick up my purchase. As Dave was wrapping up the fishtail chisel, I picked up the 1/2" blue dovetail chisel again. Then I pulled out the credit card.

So I guess it’s fair to say that last weekend, Dave Jeske talked me out of my skirt, bra and panties.

— Megan Fitzpatrick


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Monday, August 17, 2009 5:47:15 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [14] 
# Tuesday, August 11, 2009
The Votes Are In -- But We Don't Listen Very Well

Last week, we posted a blog poll to see what you thought about adding a benchtop table saw to the “I Can Do That” arsenal of tools (a basic but good set that allows the beginning woodworker to make solid and handsome pieces). As of the time I wrote this, we had 616 votes; more than 86 percent responded “yes” – we should add a benchtop table saw. So we decided to ignore your democratic vote (for now) and add a router (we’re still deciding on the make and model).

I realize this reeks of election tampering, but allow me to explain. Many of the comments against adding the table saw were convincing. And, our initial thoughts were that a table saw would allow rip cuts, so stock could easily be made into smaller sticks. But we do already have a circular saw and jigsaw in the kit, both of which can be used for ripping. And with a guide, an edge off a circ saw needs the same amount of cleanup for joinery and panel glue-ups as does one off a table saw. And for tenons, there’s the added cost of a dado stack – but how to cut the mortises?

Several readers suggested a band saw – and we agree it’s a useful machine (not to mention the powered saw of choice for many British woodworkers). And others suggested the router. When we met to discuss the poll results, we agreed with the router camp.

A router allows us to add decorative moulding to projects (beyond what the big box store has in stock – and at a lower price), cut dados, rabbets and grooves, and cut both mortises and tenons. Plus, it’s a hand-held tool (unless we add a simple router table, of course), which is more in line with the “I Can Do That” philosophy.

We’ll start out with a few basic bits – a 3/4" pattern bit with a top-mount bearing (Senior Editor Glen D. Huey’s go-to bit). A rabbeting set (editor Christopher Schwarz’s selection…though he almost went with a 1/4" spiral upcut) and a 1/2" pattern bit (Senior Editor Robert W. Lang’s choice – he doesn’t like to be locked in to a 3/4" groove). I chose a 1/4" roundover bit…a holdover from my home renovation (I ran the shoe moulding about a year ago – it’s still stacked neatly in the dining room).

— Megan Fitzpatrick


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Tuesday, August 11, 2009 8:35:38 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [11] 
# Thursday, August 06, 2009
How to Get Work Done When You Have Too Much to Do

Editor Christopher Schwarz and I have been busy building a Roubo-style bench for an upcoming issue of Popular Woodworking. The twist on this one is, it’s made from Laminated Veneer Lumber (LVL), an engineered product usually used in construction. You can read more about the build in a number of posts over on the Woodworking Magazine blog.

Chris is out of the office for a few days, and in the meantime, I was tasked with breaking down the bench (it’s bolted together for easy breakdown transport) and painting the base with milk paint (Real Milk Paint in “Red”), then adding a topcoat of wax. On Tuesday afternoon, I put on the first coat of paint, and because I made it fairly thick, I almost got away with one coat…and almost ran out of paint. On Wednesday morning, I thinned the remaining paint with water, let it slake for a half-hour or so, then added a second coat that was closer to a wash coat.

Milk paint dries quickly, so by early afternoon, I was ready to wax. And that’s where I ran into trouble…

First, I used butcher’s wax, which flashed off white. When I tried to rub it out, the not-very-smooth surface of the LVL (I should have sanded more, I suppose) made it tough to get into the troughs…and I was left with a mottled white atop the brick red beneath. Not pretty. And we’re shooting the cover shot next week. Panic ensued.

I popped out to the hardware store for a medium-hard natural-bristle brush, thinking maybe I could rub out the wax that way while getting into all the crannies. Nope; that was a waste of $5. Glen Huey and Bob Lang suggested I try floor wax instead, and told me that “wax cleans wax” thus a coat of the amber-colored floor wax would lift off the white. With trepidation, I added a coat of the floor wax, waited for it to flash, then wiped it off. Whew! They were right. The floor wax lifted the butcher’s wax, and rubbed out fairly easily. Floor wax – better than Valium for calming panic.

But the wax-on, futile-attemp-at-wax-off, panic, trip to hardware store, panic, and new coat of wax put me behind. Way behind. I was supposed to bolt the base back together yesterday afternoon, so that Chris could show it off to his father (he’s visiting from Charleston, S.C.) this morning. And I was supposed to start and finish the “I Can Do That” project for November before lunch (we're shooting that tomorrow morning). But when Chris and his dad showed up, I was still frantically wiping off a final coat of wax.

So they helped me bolt the base together (OK – I pretty much watched, while picking out the waxy paint from under my nails, while Chris and Dr. Schwarz put it together). And in the meantime, I managed to get the ICDT project done too…by talking Glen into doing it. Thank you, Glen!

— Megan Fitzpatrick


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Thursday, August 06, 2009 11:42:53 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [5] 
# Tuesday, August 04, 2009
Quick Poll: A Table Saw for 'I Can Do That' Projects?

You’re perhaps familiar with the “I Can Do That” column in Popular Woodworking, wherein we design and build a simple yet handsome piece using mostly dimensional lumber (though we’ve ripped a short piece a time or two with a jigsaw) and a simple (but good) set of tools.

There’s a free PDF manual on the web page that shows and tells how to use all the tools in the ICDT kit. And, most of the plans and instructions we’ve published in the ICDT column are also free on the site. The goal is to help beginning woodworkers make something they’ll be proud to show off for years to come – not something that will be kicked to the curb (as were the many L-bracket bookshelves I built lo these many years ago) once their skills and toolkits grow.

Currently in the toolkit we have a sliding compound miter saw, a circular saw and a jigsaw among the power saw selections. We’re thinking of adding a benchtop table saw so that longer rip cuts are possible. That would allow us to expand the types of projects we offer – without breaking the wood budget. Six 1" x 1" x 36" pieces aren't cheap – but a 1x8 that can be ripped quickly on the table saw into six pieces is far more affordable.

We reviewed benchtop table saws for the October 2009 issue (which will be arriving in subscriber mailboxes in a couple weeks), and we think the new saws are pretty darn good – especially for a beginner, or someone with a small shop (not to mention hand-tool users who need a table saw occasionally).

So what do you think? Does a benchtop table saw belong in the I Can Do That shop? Please cast your vote in our poll below.

— Megan Fitzpatrick


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Tuesday, August 04, 2009 8:37:28 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [23] 
# Monday, July 13, 2009
Caption the Photo Contest (a.k.a. 'Pick on Glen)

Senior Editor Glen D. Huey was out of the office last week, purportedly teaching a class on building a tea table at Acanthus Workshops. But on Friday, I got a photo via e-mail from Chuck Bender (the founder of Acanthus Workshops), and it doesn’t look to me as if Glen was working very hard. So, just to embarrass Glen (one of my favorite pastimes), I’m holding a “Caption the Photo” contest. Whomever supplies the funniest caption (if you make me expel Diet Coke from my nose, you win) in the comment section by 2 p.m. Friday, July 17, will get a free copy of our newest CD: “The Arts & Mysteries of Hand Tools,” which you can read more about in the post below, or here.

(And yes, I realize the intrinsic irony of offering a hand-tool-related prize for any contest featuring Glen.)

— Megan Fitzpatrick


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Monday, July 13, 2009 5:05:56 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [156] 
'The Arts & Mysteries of Hand Tools' -- A New CD featuring Adam Cherubini

On our newest CD, “The Arts & Mysteries of Hand Tools,” we've collected everything Contributing Editor Adam Cherubini has written over the years – from his first "Arts & Mysteries" column in April 2005 to his most recent in August 2009 – 31 stories in all.

Plus, you'll find hand-tool articles from Popular Woodworking on sharpening, handplanes, chisels, saws and more!

All of the articles are in an easy-to-search and easy-to-use pdf format.

Here's a look at some of the highlights:

• The Ultimate Hand-tool Shop
Ideal bench placement, convenient tool-storage solutions and a dedicated sharpening station are the key considerations in creating the "perfect" hand-tool shop. Once these are established, there's rarely a need for a larger space, no matter how many hand tools you acquire.

• 18th-century Standing Desk
This seven-article series walks you through period design and construction techniques as Adam builds a handsome standing desk for his shop.

• Hand Tools in the Modern Shop
Discover the simple steps anyone can take to quickly become an accomplished hand-tool user – from mastering the essential skill of sharpening to using planes, chisels and handsaws like a pro.

Order your copy today – just $19.95!

— Megan Fitzpatrick


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Monday, July 13, 2009 4:49:59 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [0] 
Visit the Marketplace at Woodworking in America

To all our Chicago-area readers: We would (of course) love to have you join us for the weekend, or even just one day, at the St. Charles Woodworking in America Furniture Construction and Design Conference (Aug. 14-16 at Pheasant Run Resort). But if you can’t make it for the conference sessions, you can visit the Marketplace for just $10, and test-drive some of the latest tools (vintage ones as well) and woodworking products, from Lee Valley Tools, Lie-Nielsen Toolworks, Micro Fence, D.L. Barrett and Sons, Brese Planes, Woodpeckers, Blue Spruce Toolworks, Tools for Working Wood and many more. Check out the complete list of exhibitors here. You can buy tickets ahead of time here, or just pay at the door. Parking is free. We hope to see you there!

Marketplace-only tickets for Woodworking in America: Hand Tools and Techniques (Valley Forge, Pa., Oct 2-4) are also available by clicking here.

— Megan Fitzpatrick


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Monday, July 13, 2009 12:55:15 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [0] 
# Thursday, July 09, 2009
Wish I Lived Near Rochester, N.Y.

For those of you who made it to the Cincinnati Lie-Nielsen Travelin' Hand Tool event, you know how great it was to get your hands on a huge range of Lie-Nielsen tools, meet the folks behind the name, and listen to Chris Schwarz wax prolific about hammers...and what they do to planes. (If you missed the show, become a fan of the Popular Woodworking Facebook page and you can see pictures).

Well, Lie-Nielsen is taking the show to Rochester, N.Y. on July 10 and 11, at the Rochester Woodworker's Society (noon-6 p.m. Friday, 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Saturday). In addition to hands-on training from Lie-Nielsen folk, the Rochester Woodworkers Guild will be giving demonstrations. (And by the by, every penny Chris Schwarz makes off his DVD sales is donated to a woodworking charity.) Admission is free. Visit the events page at lie-nielsen.com for more information.

— Megan Fitzpatrick


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Thursday, July 09, 2009 4:17:11 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [2] 
# Tuesday, July 07, 2009
Guess the Avatar

Ladies and gentlemen, we have a winner: Congrats to Craig Parker. Answers are at the bottom.

We're in the midst of a cover test for the October issue of Popular Woodworking (you can cast your vote here), and as always, the editorial staff has placed friendly bets on which will be the winner. We've each placed our "avatar" atop our favorite cover (or the one we think will garner the most votes).

What does this have to do with you? If you can correctly guess which avatar represents which staff member you can win a DVD. The first respondent to correctly match all the avatars to their staff member will win a FREE copy of our latest DVD: "Turning Basics for Furniture Makers with Steve Shanesy."

Entries must be e-mailed to Megan.Fitzpatrick@fwmedia.com. And to make it a bit more challenging, I'll tell you that Senior Editor Glen D. Huey and Publisher Steve Shanesy are out of the office – which leaves the remaining five staff members...and I'm not giving their names. (OK, four...as you have to e-mail me – but my avatar is a gimme, anyway.)

The answers:

Luke Skywalker: Drew DePenning; Dwight Schrute: Chris Schwarz; Bullwinkle: Bob Lang; Phone Wire Man: Linda Watts (she made this sculpture!); Shakespeare: Megan Fitzpatrick.

— Megan Fitzpatrick


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Tuesday, July 07, 2009 11:24:48 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [3] 
# Monday, July 06, 2009
New Addition to Woodworking in America Lineup

We are pleased to announce George Walker as an addition to the Woodworking in America: Furniture Construction and Design Conference (Aug. 14-16 in St. Charles, Ill.). George's session, "Unlocking the Secrets of Traditional Design," will be at 6 p.m. on Friday. (That's also the title of his excellent new DVD from Lie-Nielsen Toolworks; you can read a review of it here.)

At this session, you'll discover how period woodworkers easily sized door frames, table aprons, crown mouldings and more, with proportions based on architecture, and how these time-tested principles still apply to both modern and traditional work. You'll learn the fundamentals of proportions, forms and the classic orders. You'll pick up practical skills to help you unravel the design behind a great piece of furniture. Mastering proportions will unlock your creativity and increase your design confidence.

Plus, George will be set up for at least a couple hours every day of the conference to demonstrate his methods, answer questions and more.

Check out all the speakers and sessions – and register now at WoodworkinginAmerica.com. (And if you've already registered, you don't need to sign up for this new session – just show up!)


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Monday, July 06, 2009 2:53:47 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [0] 
# Thursday, May 14, 2009
Rags and Bucket at the Ready

Franklin International stock is not publicly traded – a crying shame ’cause I could use a no-fail get-rich-quick plan. Editor Christopher Schwarz is building another bench; Franklin International makes TiteBond Glue.

In theory, I’m building a bench. When I first began dabbling in woodworking a few years ago, Chris gifted me what I think was his first bench (maybe it was his second; it’s hard to keep them all straight). Since then, I’ve gravitated toward hand tools, but often struggle with workholding on my bench that’s better-suited to power tools. So when he’s not in the middle of a project (and sometimes when he is), I sneak over to Chris’s Roubo where the surface is long and level, and the workholding is easy.

This new bench, which Chris has written about on the Woodworking Magazine blog, is being made from LVL (laminated veneer lumber). Chris has never worked with the product before, and that’s just too much temptation for him to resist. And I’m happy to let him lift, joint and rip these heavy, splintery, 8'-long behemoths – I seriously doubt I could do the work. I’m content to serve as an outfeed table, clamp-getter, glue carrier…What I didn’t count on was having to wipe up a gallon of glue from the floor. Seriously. A gallon. After ripping the LVL, we laminated it back together in four-piece chunks with the plies facing up (and down) – in large part because it looks cool that way. Chris poured the glue, and I spread it with a 4" roller.

Chris admits he’s often been accused of having a glue problem. But in his defense, he says he’s experienced only one de-lamination in all his years of building benches – and that one de-lam was because he was young and foolish…and took the poor advice of a more experienced but parsimonious woodworker. So now, he pours on the glue. Lots of glue. You know how when you glue up a panel and you look for tiny beads of squeeze-out along the seam? Apparently, when making a benchtop, what you’re looking for is Angel Falls.

— Megan Fitzpatrick



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Thursday, May 14, 2009 4:56:06 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [7] 
# Friday, May 08, 2009
Not a Cat Wrangler After All

So this was supposed to be an at least vaguely amusing post about Woodworker's Safety Week. You see, Kari Hultman (a.k.a. The Village Carpenter), posted a funny blog entry in honor of Safety Week with pictures of her dogs.

Now, you could say that I'm a bit of an ailurophile – so I came up with an idea (in retrospect, it was an idea doomed from the start), to use one of my cats' paws as if it were a toothing plane. So just before we left work today, Editor Christopher Schwarz (also a cat lover) took a few passes on a piece of pine with a toothing plane, and I took it home to mock up a picture of my youngest cat scratching furrows in the board, then a picture of her claws with little plastic sleeves (cut from coffee stirrers) to show how to properly store your pawlane (say it fast -- it almost works) when it's not in use.

Yeah, that didn't work so well. I have furrows in my arm instead.

— Megan Fitzpatrick


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Friday, May 08, 2009 9:06:52 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [3] 
# Tuesday, May 05, 2009
Meet Don Williams at Woodworking in America

Don Williams is a conservator, educator, scholar and all-around inquisitive guy (and also the owner of more than 40 sets of suspenders). He is co-author of the book "Saving Stuff," with Louisa Jaggar, and has worked on some of the most interesting pieces in our "Nation's Attic," in private and public collections, and in historic buildings.

He's a seasoned teacher on a vast array of topics including woodworking, furniture conservation and wood finishing, and has published research on ancient coating materials as well as modern finishes, has developed finishes of his own invention, and has been published in national woodworking magazines. Don has also found time to write a mystery novel (still awaiting the right publisher) as well as several mystery stories – one of which involves a modern furniture restorer who discovers world-changing secrets hidden in an antique cabinet (I want to read it!).

Don's career in various woodworking trades began in 1972, when he was a truck driver and repairman for an interior design firm. He's worked as a foundry patternmaker, and in the restoration trade on everything from clocks and piano cases to classic European furniture and decorative arts. Don attended the University of Delaware to pursue a degree in museum conservation, where he got hands-on experience with one of the premier furniture collections in the United States, at Winterthur. He estimates he's seen tens of thousands of antique furniture examples in his years of work.

Don has conducted dozens of short courses and seminars across the country on historic furniture, materials and techniques. At Woodworking in America: Furniture Construction & Design, Don will be sharing his expert knowledge of the sea change in joinery that occurred during the 19th-century, when furniture construction moved from all hand tools to modern machinery. The transition abruptly changed the way furniture was built, how it looked, and the people who built it. And, Don will be hosting two question-and-answer sessions, where you can ask him about 19th-century joinery, finishing, his suspenders, mystery writing and more.

— Megan Fitzpatrick


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Tuesday, May 05, 2009 9:36:15 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [2] 
# Friday, May 01, 2009
And the Caption Winner Is...

A few weeks ago, we had a "Caption the Photo" contest, for which we received nigh-on 200 entries – so many, in fact, that out server kept timing out when I tried to view them in Firefox (Safari solved the problem).

So, I culled through them and picked my top-10 favorites, then had everyone else pick his or her top two from my list. My favorite was from Ric: ".... so what are you waiting for? There are lots of woodworkers waiting to chat with you! Come on and join the party, dial 1-900-....."

However I'm sad to report, Ric, that you and I must have a skewed (ha!) sense of humor. The grand-prize winner, based on a semi-democratic vote, is Trevor: "Hello, Jack? You Know those 1,500 bowls we needed by tomorrow? Yeah, that was a typo, we only need 15...Jack? Jack? Hello?..."

So Trevor, as soon as I track down your address, I'll be sending you your prize: Our new "The Best of Shops & Workbenches" CD, which has 62 of our favorite articles on building benches, setting up your shop and filling it with the jigs you need. (You can see a slideshow of the contents of our $15 CD here.)

— Megan Fitzpatrick

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Friday, May 01, 2009 11:23:30 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [1] 
# Thursday, April 30, 2009
A Heavy Load and a Long Road to Haul

A few of us have been kvetching lately about tired, aching feet after a long day in our concrete-floored shop. (Still, I'd rather have sore feet than a sore butt from sitting in front of the computer all day.)

Editor Chris Schwarz spent last weekend teaching at the Marc Adams School of Woodworking, and he was on his feet all day, for two days. But he had a nice mat to stand on, so while his fingers were raw from sharpening, his feet were happy. And I spent a number of years as a bartender (and can still mix a mean mint julep), so I know what a difference a bar mat makes – especially when traipsing around for hours in high heels (not that I often wear high heels in the shop).

So, we decided to break down and buy six mats – one for each bench, and one each for the table saw and jointer. I searched the interwebs for stall mats, on a recommendation from Charles Davis, of The Wood Zealot's Workshop (a very funny blog, but not one for the easily offended). Charles claims they're the best anti-fatigue mats he's tried (which makes sense, since the average horse outweighs the average woodworker by at least a couple hundred pounds). You'd think stall mats would be easy to find this close to the Bluegrass state, but we had to drive about an hour east of Cincinnati to score some nice sturdy ones, made on-site out of recycled tires. And those suckers are heavy – 100 pounds each. And they're not very malleable. But, we managed to cram them into the back of my Subaru, then headed off to the relatively nearby lumberyard to pick up some 8/4 stock for an upcoming project.

But, we had three people in the car. So we made the youngest (and most malleable), Drew DePenning, associate editor for the web, sit in back atop the stack of mats and hang on to the stock; after all, it's only 28 miles, and these mats are supposed to be very comfortable!

I believe I need new brake pads and shock absorbers. And should a police officer see the picture below, um, it was all Chris's idea...

— Megan Fitzpatrick

p.s. A couple Cincinnati-area readers have asked where we got the mats: From the very nice people at Dandy Products in Goshen, Ohio, 513-625-3000.



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Thursday, April 30, 2009 6:34:35 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [5] 
# Wednesday, April 29, 2009
No Axe-wielding to See Here

A few days ago, I took a poll to see what should be done with my decades-old, ugly (but functional) L-bracket-built bookcases. Frankly, I'm surprised the chain-saw option wasn't more popular. But, Mother Nature won out...as did a friend across the street. I popped across to borrow some parm-reg cheese, and she mentioned she was looking for cheap bookcases. Done. I got a block of yummy cheese, and the bookcases have a new home. Now I'm off to make bruschetta.

— Megan Fitzpatrick


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Wednesday, April 29, 2009 7:29:14 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [1] 
# Tuesday, April 28, 2009
A Big Truck Showed Up at Our Door Today

As Editor Christopher Schwarz and I were leaving to get coffee at lunchtime today, a big panel truck pulled up to our loading dock – so we hightailed it to Chris's car. But Senior Editor Glen Huey has both our mobile numbers, so there was no escaping the unloading duties (to be fair, I didn't actually do any unloading; someone had to take pictures after all!).

In the truck were two huge crates from Lie-Nielsen – the first of multiple shipments for the upcoming Lie-Nielsen Toolworks' Travelin' Hand Tool Event, May 16 and 17 in our Cincinnati shop.

Admission is free. Hours are noon-6 p.m. Saturday and 10 a.m.-5 p.m. Sunday.

Experts from Lie-Nielsen will be on hand to demonstrate their tools. We'll be here to give shop tours and apologize for dangling modifiers. Members of the Society of American Period Furniture Makers (SAPFM) will be giving hand tool demos (click here for the demo schedule). And we'll be joined by John Economaki of Bridge City Tools, Ron Hock of Hock Tools, Kevin Drake of Glen-Drake Tool Works, Ron Brese of Brese Planes, Bob Zajicek of Czeck Edge Hand Tool and Jameel Abraham of Benchcrafted.

So make plans to join us on either or both days at 4700 E. Galbraith Road, Cincinnati, Ohio, 45236 (look for the F&W Publications sign out front...and the tool makers and users in the parking lot). And here's a link to a Google map of our location. 

And the delivery fellow? We told him there were more crates to come. As he was leaving, he mentioned that a shipping competitor has great customer service. I believe there may be some heavy metal in those crates.

— Megan Fitzpatrick


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Tuesday, April 28, 2009 2:51:46 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [0] 
# Monday, April 27, 2009
Design Contest: The Ideal Clamp Rack

SWF in search of the perfect clamp rack. Willing and easily able to relocate a plus. Must be robust but have a svelte figure. Should be able to handle a lot of baggage, but be as simple as my eighth-grade boyfriend.

OK – I don’t think I can carry this conceit any further; I’m just too out of practice with the personal ads. Here’s our problem: We have a lot of clamps. Some might say we have too many clamps. But with four editors regularly building in our shop, we can’t afford to get rid of any of them. So, we need to build an additional clamp rack that can handle the heavy load.

Senior Editor Robert W. Lang designed a mobile clamp rack for the October 2007 issue that’s perfect for a one- or two-person shop, but it’s overburdened. When we load it up, I can’t move the dang thing without a clamp or three falling onto my toes. (This hurts a lot more in the summer. Why can’t I find any steel-toed sandals?)

A cursory count reveals 82 clamps hiding in corners around the shop, and precariously hanging on our poor overburdened mobile rack – and that’s not counting the nine F-styles Editor Christopher Schwarz has hanging around the rim of his trash can, or the various and sundry quick-release clamps, and the score of spring clamps attached to the mullions. In parallel-jaw clamps, we have lengths ranging from 50" to 12" (most are in between). We have F-styles ranging from 18" to 8", and handscrews with massive 18" chops down to wee 8" chops.

So we’re asking you to design the Ideal Clamp Rack – which doesn’t have to hold our whole collection (we’d be mighty pleased if it could securely hold at least 20 parallel jaws of varying lengths, a passel of F-styles and a collection of handscrews). The rack has to be strong; it doesn’t have to be handsome. It has to be simple to build, and preferably easy to move without things falling off. And personally, I’d really like it in lavender…but that may hurt your chances with the three other editors.

Submit your best SketchUp design (or CAD, or hand drawing) by e-mail to letters@fwmedia.com by midnight on May 15, 2009. The winner(s) of the best design(s) will have the satisfaction of knowing he or she has made a major contribution to the well-being and the toe health of our editors, and get a free copy of the latest book from Woodworking Magazine: the hardcover edition of issues 8-12.

— Megan Fitzpatrick


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Monday, April 27, 2009 9:01:59 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [2] 
# Tuesday, April 21, 2009
Want a Short-term Stint as a Magazine Editor?

Psst….want a job as a magazine editor? The pay is bupkes and the job lasts less than a minute, but you’ll have our undying gratitude. You see, we’re working on the cover of the August 2009 Popular Woodworking, and the staff is split on which of the two contenders has more newsstand appeal. (We actually started with three choices – the one we ruled out is pictured at left.)

So, we’d like your help in deciding which of the two choices in our cover test will make it into print. We promise it won’t take more than a minute. (Of course, if you have a few extra minutes and wish to leave comments, we welcome your critiques.) And for the record, Mr. Vila said he was having a bad hair day, so we couldn’t use that shot. Or maybe that was me…. Click here to vote.

— Megan Fitzpatrick


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Tuesday, April 21, 2009 1:14:13 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [8] 
# Tuesday, April 14, 2009
New Pneumatics from Bosch

I’m at Bosch in Mount Prospect, Ill., (just outside Chicago) where I and other magazine editors are getting a look at some of the new tools the company will be unveiling in the upcoming months. We’re seeing a lot of interesting drill and battery innovations (among other things) that we’re not yet allowed to talk about, but one thing we are allowed to announce is Bosch’s entrance into pneumatic fastening with its Full Force Technology line.

“Full Force” refers to the nailers’ patented design that allows 100 percent use of the air from a compressor, rather than the traditional design that reserves some air to reset the tool for each use. These new tools are also noticeably smaller, and, according to the Bosch press release, 10 percent more powerful. Already on the market are a couple framing nailers; but for woodworkers, there are new 16-gauge nailers and 18-gauge brad nailers and staplers that will soon be available. I got to play with the brad nailer, and it’s easy to adjust the drive depth, and easy to clear if it jams. I’m looking forward to trying that one out in the shop.
 
— Megan Fitzpatrick


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Tuesday, April 14, 2009 6:53:37 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [0] 
Getting Your Lumber from the Tree

I blame Peter Follansbee for my ruined coif and cough. In the June 2009 issue of Popular Woodworking (on newsstands April 28), we have story from Peter on carving a 17th-century panel; I study 16th- and 17th-century drama, so I was immediately intrigued. “Hey! I can carve a panel chest like the ones in which itinerant Renaissance actors stored their costumes! How cool would that be?!”

Very.

But, to get started, I need a flitch of green oak. I don’t know about your Lowe’s and Home Depot, but our home centers don’t carry that kind of thing. Luckily, we’re not too far from Paint Lick, Ky., the home of our favorite bodger, Don Weber.

“Bodger” is the traditional term for an itinerant pole lathe turner, who traveled around with a spring-pole lathe and turned parts for stick-built chairs. After training on a lathe, Don spent some time moving from village to village in Wales, setting up shop outside of pubs to fix locals’ broken chairs and other items with turned parts. He still repairs chairs, but he also teaches classes in green wood woodworking (among other things), builds tables and chairs, is a blacksmith, timber-frame builder and much more (we’ll share more of his fascinating story in the future).

And, Don splits from whole logs the vast majority of the wood he uses. As he puts it, “I don’t visit the lumberyard; I visit the log yard.” While this may seem an esoteric pursuit in this day and age, there are good reasons for splitting your own lumber, even if you’re going to resaw it by machine. We captured the visit on video, so you can listen to Don explain why.

My panel carving adventure is, however, on hold. Don has the perfect log from which to split panels, but it’s sitting on the land he’s clearing for his new home, and on the day of our visit, that meant it was sitting in the rain in a mud hole. So, Don split a smaller log he had out behind his shop. I still got drenched, but at least there’s no video of me flat on my back in the mud, axe in hand.

– Megan Fitzpatrick

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Tuesday, April 14, 2009 10:08:07 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [5] 
# Wednesday, April 08, 2009
My First Jig



I'm finally nearing the end of construction for a bookcase I'm building for the August issue. I spent last weekend making the two dovetailed drawers for the lower case, and fit them today (they still need a little work, but hey – at least they slide into where they're supposed to go!).

This afternoon, I moved onto some finishing touches for the upper case, which has two fixed shelves (to help keep the case stable) and three adjustable shelves. In my SketchUp drawing, I graduated the shelf locations so the openings get smaller as the eye moves up the case. That's all well and good in theory (and in SketchUp), but I have a lot of books, and I want to be able to move the shelves up or down an inch at each location to best accommodate the books I choose to store on each shelf. ("The Complete Christopher Marlowe" is a couple inches taller than "The Norton Shakespeare," and who knows what will end up where?!)

So, I had to make a jig to accurately locate the adjustable shelf pin holes – one where I laid the shelves out in my drawing, and a hole 1" above and 1" below. Sure, I could have used peg board, but we don't have any in the shop. So, I cut a 6"x9" piece of 1/2" plywood, struck a centerline, and used a 1-1/4" Forstner bit to cut a hole in the middle of the piece, centered on that line. Then, I measured 1-1/4" in from the front and back edges, marked hole locations 1" up and 1" down from the centerline, and drilled 1/4" holes at at all three locations at the front and back. I used a 6" rule to bring my centerline down the sides of the Forstner cutout.

I then marked the center hole location for each shelf on both sides of the case, and used the big hole in the middle of the jig to position it to the case sides, aligning the lines in the jig's hole with the line on the case side. I clamped it in place, slipped a stop collar over a 1/4" drill bit, and had all my holes drilled in no time. Yeah, I know a shelf-pin jig isn't all that sexy, but it was my first jig-building experience – and that's as exciting as was my first kiss! (Warren Hacker, if you're reading this, I'm sorry.)

— Megan Fitzpatrick


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Wednesday, April 08, 2009 5:01:14 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [4] 
# Wednesday, March 25, 2009
I Hate it When That Happens



Today, I glued up the upper carcase of the bookcase I'm working on for an upcoming issue (Bob says it could double as a condo). I was so very pleased with myself. The two fixed shelves fit snug into the grooves, the case was almost dead-on square with no futzing, and the face frame overhangs on both sides by 1/16" or so for the entire 5' length, which will make for easy cleanup (in theory).

And then I grabbed the nail gun to toenail the fixed shelves in place. Naturally, this wee mishap occurred right where it will show the most. Now where did I stash those nippers...

— Megan Fitzpatrick


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Wednesday, March 25, 2009 1:30:13 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [6] 
# Tuesday, March 10, 2009
Forgotten Furniture Polishes

As anyone who’s met me (or read some of my blog entries) likely knows, I’m rather enamored of obscure play references, archaic word usages and sesquipedalism. On my desk, I’ve a calendar of “Forgotten English,” and every morning I like to rip off the previous day’s page, peruse the new word of the day and see if I know (or can surmise) the meaning before reading the definition. (It aggrieves me to admit that more than half the time, I can’t.)

Monday’s entry was “treacle up.” I thought it might mean to take one’s medicine along with a generous helping of molasses to mask the taste. I was mistaken. The given definition is, “To rub, polish. Our parents and grandparents polished their furniture with a homemade mixture of beer, treacle, vinegar, & c.” It was extracted from Edward Gepp’s “A Contribution to an Essex Dialect Dictionary” (1923).

It sounds like a good way to create a sticky situation. Treacle is a syrup produced in sugarcane refining. And beer, well, I’d rather drink it. But a quick Google search reveals that many traditional furniture polishes call for beer, vinegar and some form of sugar. But my favorite find is in “Mackenzie’s five thousand receipts in all the useful and domestic arts.” That “receipt” calls for pumice stone and water, followed by powdered tripoli and boiled linseed oil. How does one powder a Libyan town?!

How about you – have you tried any old-fashioned “receipts” for polish – or like me, would you rather drink the beer?

— Megan Fitzpatrick, managing editor


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Tuesday, March 10, 2009 11:32:37 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [4] 
# Friday, February 27, 2009
Building a New Bookcase


See the glaringly obvious L-brackets in each corner and the triangular pieces of plywood in the top back corners that keep this monstrosity from racking? I can't take it any more!

For the February 2009 issue of Popular Woodworking, I built a Shaker stepback to house my television and assorted A/V equipment. Sure, as a woodworker (and a persnickety person in general) there are small areas of the project with which I'm unhappy – one door is a wee bit racked, and the upper case doesn’t sit seamlessly on the lower case. But, these are fixable problems, and it looks a heck of a lot better than the old rickety table I was using as a TV stand (under which was stacked the cable box, DVD player, VCR and stereo).

The biggest problem with the stepback, however, is how atrocious the shelves on the other side of the fireplace now look. They never actually looked good (after all, I made them 20 years ago from Borg-bought dimensioned pine and L-brackets). They've held together for two decades and held a lot of books in their lifetime. But the death knell is beginning to toll.

For the last few weeks, I’ve been designing a bookcase that sits on a slightly deeper lower case piece with two drawers in it (to help overcome the inherent instability of an 8'-tall shallow piece). I believe the form is actually called a “biblioteque.” I call it a vast improvement, even though I’ve barely gotten started.

Yesterday and today I milled the stock and glued up all my panels… then I cheated a bit by taking advantage of Glen Huey’s wide-belt sander to get things to final thickness. By the time I leave work on Monday afternoon, I plan to have the lower case completed, drawers and all. At left is a rough SketchUp drawing, though the backboards and drawer knobs aren’t shown. The poplar backboards will be shiplapped with a bead detail, then painted creamy white. The rest of the piece is cherry, finished the same way as the stepback. Best of all, the new piece will hold twice as many books, and the drawers are a perfect storage solution for my new kitten’s toys (her name is Viola, and she’s pictured below).

— Megan Fitzpatrick, managing editor


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Friday, February 27, 2009 7:02:36 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [4] 
# Wednesday, February 25, 2009
Woodworking Magazine Spring 2009 Now Available

Nothing is more fundamental to woodworking than the wood itself, however even professional cabinetmakers struggle with understanding how wood works and how to make it work for them. In the Spring 2009 issue of Woodworking Magazine, we we show you how the way that a tree grows in the woods directly affects the way we design and build furniture. And understanding wood is the first step to building projects that look better, last longer and are easier to build. For more information and to purchase your copy, click here.

— Megan Fitzpatrick, managing editor


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Wednesday, February 25, 2009 10:08:53 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [0] 
# Friday, February 13, 2009
A Complicated Delivery

Getting large, heavy things into the shop can be quite a challenge.

While we have a loading dock just through the back shop doors (the “barn doors” featured on many Popular Woodworking covers), the gates on it are about 6" more narrow than any truck that’s ever delivered to us. And, they’re set back a mere 2" from the dock’s front edge, which means that truck drivers have to be able to back in perfectly straight and lower the lift gate onto a very narrow ledge.

To make things more interesting, there are parking spaces on either side of the dock, as well as spaces 20' across the lot directly opposite the dock. All of these inevitably have vehicles in them on days we get a delivery. I sometimes make the mistake of asking delivery drivers if I should have those cars moved. Delivery drivers do not like having their driving skills called into question. Instead, they’ll take 20-25 minutes to execute 230-point turns to snug the truck in but inches away from the cars on either side. (Gosh, we're all really impressed down here, I can tell you.) So usually, I start making calls to get cars moved the second I see a truck approaching.

For a recent delivery, that was but the start of the trouble…

In the June 2009 issue, we’re reviewing the Grizzly 17" G0636X “Ultimate Band Saw” with a 5-horsepower motor and a 16-1/4" resaw capacity. Weighing in at 775 pounds, this is one hefty machine. The guys (with much grunting) wrestled it out of the truck onto the dock platform. And there it sat as the rain clouds rolled in and we scratched our heads. The door opening is 81" tall. The crated band saw was 87" tall. To get it in the shop, we had to take it off the pallet – which meant we couldn’t use the pallet jack to move it into its new home. And even off the pallet, the monster cleared the door by maybe 1/4".

But it’s now in place, wired and working. Glen will have a full review of the machine in the June issue (on newsstands in late April). For now, we can reveal that it’s heavy. And big. And green. And a bear to get into the shop.

— Megan Fitzpatrick, managing editor


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• Looking for free project plans? We have hundreds. Click HERE.
• Learn a new woodworking technique today. Click HERE.
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• Check out our selection of half-price woodworking books HERE.
• Get 8 years of Popular Woodworking on one CD. Click HERE.


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Friday, February 13, 2009 1:13:56 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [1] 
# Tuesday, February 10, 2009
I Took You For a Joint Stool

This circa 1670 joint stool is from Wallace Nutting's "Furniture Treasury."

I’ve been reading a bit of Shakespeare lately (everyone should have a hobby, no?), and in several of his plays, the term “joint stool” appears, often in the service of a taunt. That’s piqued my interest in “moveables,” that is, early modern stuff such as furniture that shows up in the plays of Shakespeare and his contemporaries. (I’m hoping there’s a dissertation somewhere therein.)

Joint stools were ubiquitous in the late 16th and 17th centuries, and were the most common form of seating in households of all income levels. Examples have survived in a range of heights and sizes, which indicates the form, with turned legs joined to an apron and top, was used for tables as well as seating.

In the early modern period (a.k.a. the Renaissance), only a member of the Joiners’ Guild was allowed to make joined furniture, in contrast with turners who produced woodenware, simple turned stools and the like, and carpenters who made rough furniture and framed houses. Like all the craft guilds (which were formed in the Middle Ages), the woodworking guilds were highly specialized both to protect the economic interests of their members, and to protect customers by enforcing high standards of workmanship.

Fine workmanship or not, a stool was a utilitarian piece of furniture on which people placed their posteriors. Thus, in the mock trial scene of the quarto version of “King Lear” (3.4), when the Fool says, “Cry you mercy, I took you for a joint-stool,” he’s indicating a range of possible insults toward the character in question. First, he’s saying that she’s so common that she’s easily overlooked. He’s also perhaps saying that she’s common, like a whore. And because early joint stools had un-upholstered wooden seats, he may also be comparing her hard heart to the wood of which the stool is comprised.

The humble joint stool makes a more salacious appearance in “The Taming of the Shrew” (2.1). When Katherine calls Petruchio a joint stool he responds, “Thou hast hit it: come, sit on me” (Monty Python fans may recall a certain song with the same basic thrust). The conversation quickly turns to asses and bearing, with not-so-subtle connotations of sex and childbirth.

Stools also show up in “A Midsummer Night’s Dream,” “Macbeth,” “Romeo and Juliet” and “2 Henry IV” — and if I missed any Shakespearean stool references, please let me know. Next up, “Rude Mechanicals,” pre-Moxon.

— Megan Fitzpatrick, managing editor


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Tuesday, February 10, 2009 3:02:25 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [3] 
# Monday, December 01, 2008
A Stinky Solution for Soiled Saws

While pegging the joints in a Shaker stepback I built for the February 2009 issue of Popular Woodworking (which mails to subscribers at the end of December), I used a $100 flush-cut saw. It’s a darn nice saw. Unless one clogs the teeth with glue.

Now, I didn’t intend to make it look as if I were trying to cover up my crime. I meant to ask Editor Christopher Schwarz how best to clean the yellow glue out of its tiny little teeth. But he was out that day, I got distracted with other stuff, and the saw ended up back in the rack, gunk and all.

About two weeks later, it was summarily brought to my attention that this pricey saw was now unusable. But Chris suggested a solution (short of buying a new saw), and it worked. I poured white vinegar into a shallow Pyrex pan and soaked the gunked-up teeth for a half-hour or so, then I went to work with an old toothbrush. It took some serious scrubbing, but the vinegar softened the dried glue enough to allow me to scrub it out, tooth by tooth. To speed up the process, you could heat the vinegar in a microwave, but that would increase the aroma. (After a visit from our human resources department during the last time we sprayed a finish, well, we try to avoid stinky things as much as possible.) 

After the teeth were cleaned, I rinsed the vinegar away and wiped the blade with jojoba oil. The blade lost some of its shiny luster, but the teeth cut, and that's $100 I can spend on shoes. Or on a couple new Hock plane blades.

— Megan Fitzpatrick, managing editor


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Monday, December 01, 2008 1:04:19 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [6] 
# Tuesday, November 25, 2008
F+W Warehouse Book Sale is Back!

If a decade ago you lived in the Cincinnati area, you likely attended the F+W Warehouse sale. At the time, we had a book warehouse on our Evanston property (the old Coca Cola bottling plant), and every year we sold returns, remainders and overstock books at rock-bottom prices. It's been almost 10 years since we had the sale (Xavier University now owns that building – I think the old shop is where the rowing team keeps the sculls), but we now have a warehouse in the Fields-Ertel area, and we're delighted to announce that the sale is back and there are more than 60,000 pounds of low-priced books from which to choose (including, of course, a plethora of woodworking titles)!

Located in Governor's Plaza Center, 9131 Fields-Ertel Road (the ZIP code is 45249) the warehouse will be open from 9 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday through Saturday, and 10 a.m.- 7 p.m. Sundays, from Nov. 28 through Jan. 4, 2009. You have more than a month to get great deals ($10 and less!) on books covering the full range of F+W Media subjects including woodworking, antiques, home & garden, quilting, art, firearms, travel, scrapbooking, writing and much more! And if you can’t make it to Cincinnati for the sale? Visit clearancebooks.com, where you’ll find many of the same books, at the same blowout prices.

— Megan Fitzpatrick, managing editor


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Tuesday, November 25, 2008 8:38:57 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [0] 
# Monday, November 10, 2008
Is Your Magazine Messed Up? Here's the Fast Fix



In the subscriber issues of December 2008 Popular Woodworking, there was an insert glued to page 25, and it seems our printer used a super-strong adhesive that didn't allow easy removal. First, our apologies. We'll do our best to make sure that doesn't happen again. Second, click below for a pdf of the article in its entirety.

Megan Fitzpatrick, managing editor

Dec08ArtsMysteries.pdf (545.45 KB)

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Monday, November 10, 2008 10:51:58 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [5] 
# Monday, October 27, 2008
The December Issue is in the Mail!

Start hanging out by your mailbox – the December issue of Popular Woodworking is in the mail (but only to subscribers, of course). Single copies are available through popularwoodworkingshop.com, and the issue will be on newsstands Nov. 11. Here’s a peek inside:

Best New Tools of 2008 To help you make your Christmas list, we reveal our picks for the Best New Tools of 2008 (you can see one of them in action here).

12" Sliding Compound Miter Saws We test six top-selling 12” miter saws and choose the winners for “Editor’s Choice” and “Best Value” (you can watch a video of some of the testing here).

Stickley Mantle Clock Senior Editor Glen D. Huey takes you step by step through building this Gustav Stickley design (an original was recently appraised at $4,000!) with a leaded-glass window and 12-sided clock-face opening. Click here to read online extras for this article, including how to fume a finish using ammonia and how the leaded glass window was made.

Build a Wooden Jack Plane Mario Rodriguez shows you how to build this workhorse plane – by the time you’re done, you’ll understand how and why a plane works (and what to do if it doesn’t).

Shaker Nesting Trays John Wilson shares his plans for building a set up oval trays based on the form of the iconic Shaker Box top. (And they make a great gift!)

Drawknives & Spokeshaves Michael Dunbar shows you how to use these time-honored tools – and why they deserve a place in the modern shop.

• Plus, Adam Cherubini takes the next steps in building his 18th-century Philadelphia chair, Bob Flexner shows you how to expertly brush a finish, Glen Huey builds a handsome coffee table for the “I Can Do That” project, letters and tricks from readers, and more!

Megan Fitzpatrick, managing editor


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• Check out our selection of half-price woodworking books HERE.
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Monday, October 27, 2008 12:30:49 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [0] 
# Thursday, October 09, 2008
Bicycle Lathe Plans

Don Weber’s Bicycle Lathe article in the August 2007 issue (#163) sparked a lot of interest and questions (which you can read here). Don has just sent me hand-drawn plans for the lathe, which I've posted here for free download as a pdf (with my apologies that the lines are light and bit hard to see).

bike lathe drawing.pdf (1.38 MB)

— Megan Fitzpatrick

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Thursday, October 09, 2008 2:55:09 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [2] 
# Wednesday, October 01, 2008
Squiggle Wood

One of the best things about this job is that every week, mysterious boxes arrive and we get to open them. Inside we usually discover some of the newest and coolest tools about to hit the market; then we get to run into the shop and play with them, and write about them for you. But a box that arrived last week from John Economaki at Bridge City held something even better (at least to my childlike mind) – “Squiggle Wood.”  

This 6" piece of 3/8"-thick beech (I think it’s beech) has a series of 88 evenly spaced alternating kerfs (44 on each side), that allows it to bend in both directions, and side to side (to a point). I don’t know that it has an intended use, but it’s ideal for rapping people on the head when they’re late with stories. And really, like my old Slinky, it’s just entertaining (both the Squiggle Wood and thwacking my fellow editors).

John cut this little piece of fun on the new Jointmaker Pro, a precision machine that uses an upside-down Japanese handsaw blade to make unparalleled glass-smooth cuts for joinery dovetails and more. Plus, it’s virtually dust-free and whisper quiet. We wrote about it in earlier blog posts, which you can read here. Even more fun, however, is to visit YouTube and watch the videos John posted of Squiggle Wood in action (no really, it’s in action).

I've been trying to come up with uses for Squiggle Wood, in addition to the aforementioned sap. A bit longer piece could make a nice bracelet. Or it could be the veneer substrate for a round dollhouse tabletop. Or...what do you think? The person who posts the best idea below (by Oct. 15) will win this piece of Squiggle Wood. My fellow editors will be happy to see it go.

– Megan Fitzpatrick


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Wednesday, October 01, 2008 2:19:17 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [6] 
# Tuesday, September 16, 2008
'Out of the Woodwork' Contest – You Could Win a Leigh Superjig

Our backlog of “Out of the Woodwork” articles (the last editorial page of the magazine), is running dangerously low; it’s time to restock the file, and we need your help. So, we’re running a contest for “OOW” submissions. The writer of the best submission (in the editors’ collective opinion) will not only get paid for the article ($250), but also win a 24” Leigh Superjig and matching vacuum and router support. We’ll buy all the runners-up, too ($250), and they’ll be published in future issues of Popular Woodworking.

In case you’re not familiar with the column, it’s a one-page article (600 words or so) that reflects on the writer’s thoughts about woodworking as a profession or hobby. The article can be either humorous or serious, and ideally should be on a unique topic – or present a ubiquitous topic from a fresh viewpoint. We get a lot of “grandpa was a woodworker,” “my first toolbox” and “my dad and I bonded in the shop” submissions; we don’t buy many of them. That’s not to say they’re not good – most of them just aren’t new. We want new. We want fresh. Because we know that’s what you want to read.

So, if you’ve got a great story, write it up and e-mail it to me (Megan Fitzpatrick) via e-mail. You could win a Leigh Superjig, and/or publication (and, OOW column is a great way for new writers to “break in” to the magazine!). The deadline is October 10, 2008. We’ll choose the winners by October 17.

— Megan Fitzpatrick

p.s. Below, we’ve posted pdfs of a few of our favorite OOWs from the past as examples, and for your reading enjoyment.

Almost a Plane Wreck.pdf (185.08 KB)
Barn of the Damned.pdf (85.54 KB)
Sawdust in the Soup.pdf (156.69 KB)
My New Apprentice.pdf (101.01 KB)


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Tuesday, September 16, 2008 12:51:50 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [2] 
# Thursday, August 28, 2008
Build a Boat in Less than a Week

In February 2005, John Wilson (whom you likely know from his Shaker box articles) wrote a story for us on building a “Sailor Girl”– a 12'-long boat made in just three-and-a half days (including the sail!) with plywood and epoxy – materials readily available at most home centers. (We’ve posted a pdf of the article at the end of this entry.)

John is the founder of The Home Shop, a Charlotte, Mich.-based supplier of Shaker box materials, and woodworking school where he and others teach classes on a wide variety of topics, including (natch) Shaker box building, hand-cut dovetails, mortise-and-tenon joinery and how to make your own travisher plane. For many years, John has also taught a class on making a “Sailor Girl” boat.

Next year, however, John is expanding The Home Shop classes to include more Shaker box-building offerings, so May 14-17, 2009, will be the last opportunity to take “Sail Boat Building,” and demand will be strong. A $200 deposit secures you a spot in the class. For details and to sign up for the final Sailor Girl session, call John at 517-543-5325 EST.

SailorGirl.pdf (968.92 KB)

— Megan Fitzpatrick

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Thursday, August 28, 2008 12:31:56 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [0] 
# Monday, August 18, 2008
For This I get Paid? — The Final Installment


I got back to Cincinnati late Saturday after six days at the Marc Adams School of Woodworking, where Phil Lowe taught me and 11 others how to build a demilune table with a veneered apron. I promised to post a picture of my table today. The one you see above is Phil's. The one you see below (not quite completed...) is mine. 'Nuff said.



— Megan Fitzpatrick

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Monday, August 18, 2008 3:46:33 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [6] 
# Saturday, August 16, 2008
For This I Get Paid? Part 5

Friday, my fellow students and I got into a very sticky situation. That hide glue that Phil Lowe had us start cooking on Monday finally came into play. But first, we were directed to glue up our tabletops with a spring joint. I was elated – I actually knew how to do this (the first thing about which I felt truly confident all week). But after the glue set, Phil told us to flatten the top. With a smooth plane. My kingdom for a No. 5.

He then proceeded to use an 1-1/4” chisel to very quickly cut a deep chamfer on the underside of his top, then cleaned it up with a spokeshave in just a few minutes. Very impressive. My top isn’t ready for a chamfer. It isn’t yet flat (but it sure is thinner). I’ll have to go in before class on Saturday to finish planing and scraping, before I can band saw the edge, clean it up and cut the chamfer. Our final task before packing up will be to attach the top with buttons, and I want to get that accomplished – in large part so the top of my wonky bridle joints are covered up, and the guys won’t have an immediate and obvious target for mirth.

So I set my top aside as we moved onto veneer. This was a lot of fun – and a hot sticky mess. After cutting the veneer pieces a little oversized, I opened the glue pot and swatted at the dozens of flies that immediately converged on my bench, glue pot, arms and substrate. Then I painted a layer of glue onto the bricked poplar substrate, laid down the veneer strip, added another layer of glue, then squeegeed it off the top and out from the bottom with a veneer hammer (a heavy hunk of metal with a 3” - 4” rolled edge and a handle – it has nothing to do with hammering). The glue tacks very quickly – to everything. While squeegee-ing in the demo, Phil scooped and scraped the excess neatly into his palm and calmly and cleanly returned it to the glue pot.  While we were all squeegee-ing, we scooped and scraped the excess into and onto everything around us (my marking knife was at one point firmly attached to my forearm). But hide glue is easy to clean up – just a little hot water and my tools (and my forearm) were clean.

On Saturday, we’ll add the banding, and hopefully get through assembly. I’ll post of picture of my finished project on Monday – or at least a picture of however finished it may be. But I guarantee those bridle joints won’t be visible.

– Megan Fitzpatrick

Read Part 1 of this series here. And Part 2 is here. Part 3 is here. Part 4 is here.


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Saturday, August 16, 2008 8:48:11 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [1] 
# Friday, August 15, 2008
For This I Get Paid? Part 4

Today, Phil Lowe set up a jig to waste out the front side of the bridle joint that the leg sleeves over in our demilune tables, and a niggling thought crept in to my head. Did I really keep the screws out of the leg locations when bricking the rim? I think I did, but… The last thing I wanted to do was hit a screw and set off the Saw Stop. For one thing, the Marc Adams School of Woodworking has only the one dado stack at the moment, and I didn’t want to keep anyone else in the class from getting their work accomplished. And it would be really embarrassing.

Just in case, I moved to the end of the line. I figured if I did set it off, I could handle the embarrassment – as long as I didn’t hold anyone else up. But as I waited, I decided I’d best chop out the waste by hand. The longer I stood there, the more I convinced myself that I’d misplaced a screw. But my handsaw skills are, shall we say, in the developmental stage. So at Phil’s suggestion, I clamped a guide block along my scribed line, and kept the saw blade pressed flat to that "training wheel" as I cut down to the shoulders at each location. Then I chiseled out the waste and flattened the bottom with a shoulder plane. Of course, there was nary a screw in sight.

This was the first time I’d used a chisel for precision work other than dovetails. Dovetails are small. This joint is not. I’ve struggled with getting things flat and even, and squaring the shoulders (among other things). Phil makes it look so easy.

I knew coming into this class that I was jumping into the deep end. In theory, I know why the blade is cambered in a smooth plane, and how to use that plane. I’ve read reams on how to hold and use a handsaw. I’ve watched editor Christopher Schwarz demonstrate plane us, and the three classes of saw cuts – more than once. (Chris makes it look easy, too). Heck – Chris has even stuck a plane in my hand and given me a lesson on its use. But I didn’t pick up the plane again until this class. Using these tools with purpose is very different than reading about it, watching someone do it, or taking a few desultory swipes at a board – no matter how good the instructor. Use it or lose it.

My table might approach mediocrity. My cuts aren’t great, my tenons are loose, and I got so excited about my plane shavings that I was overzealous – the ankles on my tapered table legs are very delicate indeed. But it will be the best darn demilune table I’ve ever built. The next one will be even better – and will use no screws at all.

— Megan Fitzpatrick

Read Part 1 of this series here. And Part 2 is here. Part 3 is here.


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Friday, August 15, 2008 8:47:57 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [1] 
# Thursday, August 14, 2008
For This I Get Paid? Part 3

As I mentioned in my entry from yesterday, my first order of business this morning (after stirring in the skin at the top of the glue pot -- blech) was to band saw away the waste on the inside of my bricked rim. I wanted to go early and get that out of the way, but at Marc Adams' school, power machinery can be used only between 8 a.m. and 6 p.m. Those are the hours when a staff member is on hand to supervise.

Marc has been running his school since 1994, and in that time, there's been not one major accident on any machinery. That's because safety is of paramount importance to Marc and his staff. Exposure to blades is limited as much as possible by featherboards, hold-downs, shields, fences, sleds and more. As you can see in the picture at the top, in order to cut our table rim's tenon cheeks on the table saw, we had to keep our hands well above the blade in order to secure the workpiece against the jig attached to the miter gauge.

If there's a way to make the operation safe, Marc and his staff have found it, and they're adamant that while at the school, students and instructors follow their proven safety procedures. And they watch like hawks to ensure that happens. This can be frustrating at times -- but it also means that students go home not only with a great woodworking experience, but with all the digits with which they arrived.

On Wednesday, for example, we were crosscutting legs to length at the table saw. Two stops were set up to the left and right of the blade, attached to a sled. Plus a Lexan shield covered the blade. In order to get our leg stock into position, the sled had to be pulled far enough back to allow access to the table under the shield. And though we had a number of small offcuts, the shield prevented anyone from reaching too close (3" minimum) to the spinning blade. It seemed tedious to maneuver the pieces under the angled shield, but it caused the operation to be performed slowly and meticulously. As one of our class assistants, Doug Dale, said, "Often, the safest way is also the most accurate."

It's a great lesson, one I'll keep in mind when I get back to our shop. Now if only there were a Lexan shield to keep me from cutting into my tenons with a handsaw.

— Megan Fitzpatrick

Read Part 1 of this series here. And Part 2 is here.


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Thursday, August 14, 2008 7:19:53 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [0] 
# Wednesday, August 13, 2008
For This I Get Paid? Part 2

To start off the second day in Phil Lowe's "Building a Demilune Table" class, we rub jointed 34 pieces with 15° angles on each end into chevrons (shown above). I thought I knew how to smear on glue and rub two pieces of wood together, but Phil showed us how to first size the end grain with a very thin layer of glue rubbed in to fill in the xylem and phloem. That, Phil says, keeps the glue used in the rub joint from being sucked up into the end grain and makes the resulting joint stronger.

After our 17 chevrons were made, we screwed and glued six of them around the edge of the pattern we routed yesterday (being careful to keep screws out of the leg-joint areas). Then, we cut close to the pattern edge on the band saw, and touched up any wonky spots with a spokeshave. Let's just say I got some spokeshave practice. The final step for each layer was to pattern shape it on the router table. The rim was built up with three more bricked layers of chevrons and half pieces, sawing (spokeshaving) and routing each layer as we went.

The most exciting moment of the day for me (and no doubt for many of the class members), was unscrewing the rim from the pattern and seeing the shape emerge. That poplar sure is pretty – but I suspect I'll like the bird's-eye maple veneer even more. We scribed lines back from the front edge, and some people have already cut away the waste from the back. I was at the end of the line at the band saw and there's no power-tool use after 6 p.m. at the Marc Adams School of Woodworking (more on that tomorrow). So my first task on Wednesday (after plugging in the glue pot for delightful olfactory ambiance), will be to remove that waste. Then it's on to planing the tapers on the legs.

Read Part 1 of this series here.


— Megan Fitzpatrick


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Wednesday, August 13, 2008 7:45:09 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [4] 
# Monday, August 11, 2008
For This I Get Paid? Part 1

Monday morning, I left my house at 5:30 a.m. to drive to Franklin, Ind., to the Marc Adams School of Woodworking. I had to be there by 8 a.m., and while it’s only an hour-and-a-half drive or so from Cincinnati (if one drives too fast, as I am wont to), I tend to get lost. And I got lost. Twice. But, I made it by 7:30, and I had my bench set up by the 8 a.m. start.

I’m taking Phil Lowe’s “Building a Demilune Table” class. Not only is it my first foray into curved work, I’ll also learn to hammer veneer. I’m using mahogany for the legs and top, and bird’s-eye maple veneer will be applied (along with banding of a species yet-to-be-determined)to a substrate of poplar. Monday, each class member cut a series of short pieces of secondary wood, which will be bricked to make the curved substrate for the apron (we’ll pattern rout to an MDF template once the polygon is assembled).

While all of this is new and exciting, what I found most revelatory was the planning process. On a piece of butcher paper, using only a T-square, two triangles, a 6” rule and trammel points, Phil produced beautiful full-size orthographic and isometric drawings of our project in less than two hours – all with seemingly no math. I must learn this.

Not so exciting? Prepping for hammer veneering. While I’m delighted to be learning this traditional skill, Phil prefers his hide glue well done. So although we won’t be dipping into the glue pots for at least another day, the redolent scent of cooking collagen hangs in the air. That ought to go well with breakfast.

— Megan Fitzpatrick

Read part 2 by clicking here.


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Monday, August 11, 2008 10:20:09 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [1] 
# Tuesday, July 15, 2008
Visit Woodworkers Resource for Preview Interviews of Woodworking in America

If you're not familiar with WoodworkersResource.com and its founder, Craig Stevens, well, it's worth taking the time to visit his site. Craig started Woodworkers Resource in 2005 after a decade of teaching himself woodworking though trial and error, and reading lots of woodworking books. His goal was to create a woodworking community and provide information and a source of inspiration for other burgeoning woodworkers, especially young people who are interested in getting started in the craft.

Three years later, his site provides top-notch advice on products, tips and techniques to improve your skills, a plethora of instructional and informational videos, and a list of some of the best woodworking resources on the Internet. Plus, Woodworkers Resource is an excellent reference for teaching woodworking to kids.

If you're coming to the Woodworking in America Conference in Berea, Ky., Nov. 14-16, you'll get a chance to meet Craig. And in preparation for the event, he's been busy interviewing many of the expert instructors who are teaching at the conference. Currently on Craig's site, you'll find his interview with the "Dean of Windsor Chairs" and founder of The Windsor Institute, Michael Dunbar. Next on tap is an interview with Bridge City Tool Works president, John Economaki. And in the coming weeks, Craig will post interviews with Adam Cherubini, Robin Lee, Tom Lie-Nielsen, Clarence Blanchard and Dave Jeske (and he's lining up more interviews as I write this).

You can listen to the interviews at his site (click here to hear what Michael Dunbar has to say), and sign up for notification messages when new interviews are posted. Plus, after signing up you'll be able to download MP3s of the interviews, so you can take them with you wherever your MP3 player can go!

— Megan Fitzpatrick


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Tuesday, July 15, 2008 12:44:41 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [0] 
# Tuesday, May 27, 2008
Impatience and Frustration – Bad Bedfellows Indeed
"How poor are they that have not patience!
What wound did ever heal but by degrees?
Thou know'st we work by wit, and not by witchcraft;
And wit depends on dilatory time."
(Othello, 2.2.376-79)


Over this holiday weekend, I planned to do nothing but sit on my couch and read for my upcoming exams – and do as little physical labor as possible. Unfortunately, whilst sitting on my couch, I had an almost head-on view of the small hallway in which I've been meaning to install a built-in cupboard. In my line-of-sight were a box of cat litter and two bags of cat food that would be hidden behind the doors of said cupboard. Needless to say, this distracted me mightily from my Shakespeare.

So, I took some measurements, drew up a rough sketch (not my forte as you can see above) hopped in my car and drove to the home center where I picked up some 2x12 Southern yellow pine from the "Construction Lumber" section. I planned to paint the piece (and I'm cheap), so SYP was a perfect choice...except that I'd have to mill off a lot of waste to get to my desired 3/4" thickness. But no problem – after all, we have the technology.

I got to the shop, plugged in my iPod (the first step in any project), and rough cut my pieces to length at the miter saw. Then I powered up the dust collection, adjusted the jointer fence and went to work on the milling. I moved to the planer, ran a couple pieces through...and was hit in the face with a HUGE cloud of dust.

It seems our dust collector hadn't been emptied since Hector was a pup. Not only was the waste container full, the dust was backed up into the overhead pipes and jammed at the intake for the planer. So after a moment (or 10) of fishwife-worthy curses, I emptied out the container then spent a half hour getting the pipes unjammed, then swept up enough dust to fill another two containers. ARGHHH!!!!!

By this time, I was quite frustrated (yes, I should have checked the collector before I started; I was mostly angry with myself). I finished milling the lumber, stacked it on my bench, and decided the construction could wait. I'd had enough for one day, and I _really_ needed to get back to my books. So I left.

You'll recall that I used Southern yellow pine. From the home center. From the Construction Lumber department. Rule #1 when buying cheap wood: Let it dry. Or if you're impatient, mill it and IMMEDIATELY construct your project, clamping the ever-loving you-know-what out of it so it doesn't warp/twist/cup/etc as it dries. OK. really, you should let it dry.

What you should never do is stack it, unstickered, on your bench.


Two days later, I'm hoping that, having stickered it, the top piece will flatten out as the moisture loss from the now-exposed side catches up. If it doesn't (and I know it won't, but a girl's gotta have hope), it's another trip to the home center...for a BIG box of screws. And stock for a beefier face frame to hide those screws. I'll head for the hardwood. It's usually dry.

— Megan Fitzpatrick


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Tuesday, May 27, 2008 12:27:14 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [9] 
# Tuesday, May 13, 2008
High Heels and Pounce Bags

Last Sunday, in The New York Times Magazine cover story, Michael Sokolove reported that in the world of sports, “Girls are more likely suffer chronic knee pain as well as shinsplints and stress fractures.” And, according to some research, ankle sprains, hip and back pain are more prevalent among women athletes, as are concussions in sports that both sexes play.

I guess I’m lucky. I played soccer for three decades and while my knees do hurt on occasion, I never tore an anterior cruciate ligament (aka ACL). After a mild sprain or two, my right ankle isn’t quite as strong as it once was, but I’ve never been on crutches for more than a week. And no concussions (at least none I remember). What finally ended the game for me was a snapped wrist during a stint as keeper. I was in a cast for four months, and my right wrist is now chronically weak – and I’m chronically afraid of breaking it again. (But for the record, I blocked that shot.)

The difference between men and women, according to experts Sokolove interviewed, is biometrics. Quite simply, men and women are built differently, and after puberty, men tend to add muscle whereas women tend to add fat, so women don’t have the same intrinsic strength to support muscle and ligament movements. And, because of women’s hip shapes, we tend to run differently. According to some experts, the female body can be trained to address these differences, which may reduce injuries.

I find a similar issue in woodworking from time to time. At 5'5", I’m of average height for a woman. But the benches in our shop were built by men, and my bench used to belong to Editor Christopher Schwarz, who is just shy of a foot taller than am I. So, properly using a hand plane at that bench is for me impossible, as my elbows are always bent far more than they ought to be. This is an easy fix — either build my own bench…or wear high heels. (Thus far, I’ve opted for the heels.)
















On the left, I'm wearing 4" heels; on the right, I'm in flats.

Sawing is also a challenge, at least for some women. In “How to Saw” in the Spring 2008 Woodworking Magazine, Chris illustrates proper sawing stance, with his legs and body positioned straight on to the cut, and the elbow of his sawing arm swinging freely past his torso. Let’s just say that if I line my body up in the same way, my sawing arm cannot swing straight back unimpeded. In this situation, I opt to stand a bit left of center…or wear a sports bra. Again, it boils down to a fashion choice.


It took me a long time to get comfortable with our Powermatic table saw, too. Pushing a board through the cut is quite scary for me. Compared to the guys, my torso is a lot lower and closer to the blade when I lean forward, and my arms are a lot a shorter. So, my hand, arms and chest are always closer to the blade. Thus, I have to more often give up some workpiece control by using a push stick when one of the guys might not choose to use one.

And then there’s gloves (no, I don’t wear them at the jointer). One size does not fit all. It doesn’t even come close. Forget the home center or hardware store. When I need nitrile or vinyl gloves for messy finishing jobs, I have to drive miles to a medical supply store. And even then, I’m not always able to find women’s smalls.

Hand-held tools can also be a challenge. We have some drills in our shop that I simply cannot pick up and use with one hand, due to their weight. And on others, the grip is far too large to be comfortable. I realize these tools are designed for the “average” user – but I do wish more manufacturers paid attention to the fact that far more women are now buying and using tools. I don’t think our relatively smaller frames and hand sizes are usually factored into that “average.” (Of course, my chronically weak right wrist doesn’t help matters. Darn – guess I can’t use that Firestorm pictured above.)

In my soccer “career,” until college I was usually the only girl on the team. I wasn’t the best player, but I could hold my own. By age 16, most of the guys were faster, stronger and a whole lot bigger than was I. So I compensated by improving my blocking, tackling and passing. I’ve had to learn some similar “fixes” in woodworking. And of course, it affords me the opportunity to match my pounce bag to my shoes.




— Megan Fitzpatrick


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Tuesday, May 13, 2008 2:28:02 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [26] 
# Friday, May 02, 2008
Update on Woodworking in America



As you may have read in an earlier post, Popular Woodworking and our sister publication, Woodworking Magazine, are sponsoring the first-ever weekend conference devoted to hand tools and learning to use them.

We're calling it Woodworking in America: Hand Tools & Techniques Conference 2008, and we'll be bringing together the country's best hand-tool woodworkers and manufacturers for a symposium in Berea, Ky., on Nov. 14-16.

There will be more than 40 short classes on tools and techniques during the long weekend, plus a marketplace where toolmakers can display (and sell) their wares, social events with the demonstrators and toolmakers and more.

On April 28, we announced a long list of distinguished woodworkers and toolmakers who will join us, and now we're delighted to let you know that we've added two more to the list: Brian Boggs (who is renowned for making gorgeous, comfortable chairs) and David Jeske (owner, founder and fine hand-tool maker of Blue Spruce Toolworks). And we're still working on the list.

In addition, journalists from some of the web's top woodworking sites will be on hand to interview attendees, toolmakers and teachers, and share their impressions of the conference online. We're pleased to welcome The Wood Whisperer (aka Marc Spagnuolo), Matt's Basement Workshop (aka Matt Vanderlist), The Village Carpenter (aka Kari Hultman) and Furnitology.com (aka Neil Lamens).

Registration for Woodworking in America will begin in June. Visit the conference site to sign up for the e-newsletter, and you'll be the first to know when the registration "desk" opens.

— Megan Fitzpatrick
 


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Friday, May 02, 2008 3:13:30 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [0] 
# Wednesday, April 02, 2008
Glen-Drake Founder to Visit Popular Woodworking



Kevin Drake, the founder and owner of Glen-Drake Toolworks (glen-drake.com), is visiting the Cincinnati-based Popular Woodworking shop for a free seminar on May 8 from 6-9 p.m.

Kevin will be demonstrating and discussing some of his tools, including the Tite-Mark gauge (the favorite cutting gauge of four out of four Popular Woodworking editors surveyed), the "Wild-West" Joinery Saw (a two-handed dovetail saw), Plane-Adjusting Hammers, Chisel Hammers and more. Plus, all attendees will get a free copy of his "Tools and Techniques" DVD!

We have room for 60 visitors, and dinner is included. Slots are available on a first-come, first-served basis. Please send me e-mail me if you'd like to attend this free event.

— Megan Fitzpatrick

(megan.fitzpatrick@fwpubs.com)



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Wednesday, April 02, 2008 1:28:05 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [0] 
# Wednesday, February 20, 2008
Completely Floored

It's a good thing my kitchen is capacious. In addition to the usual kitchen accoutrements and furniture, at the moment, it also contains a church pew (it usually resides in the front hall), a large cedar chest (which serves as my coffee table), a television and related electronics, a very heavy antique sideboard, a couch (off to the right side of the picture), the top of an old corner cupboard, two small bookshelves and the top of my dining room table (which, no doubt in violation of fire codes, blocks the back door). I've been eating out a lot.

The reason for this nightmare of a mess? When I bought my 1895 house seven years ago, I swore the first change I'd make was to remove the execrable kelly-green carpet in the living room and cheap, thoroughly worn parquet in the hall and dining room. I finally got around to it.

As I mentioned in my last entry on this little project, I had a fair amount of patching to do before the floors could be sanded and finished.


As you can see in the picture at right, a former owner had cut a hole in the floor, dropped in some scrap wood, and left the ends of the floorboards unsupported (you can see the joists through the large gaps). There were several areas where similar "fixes" had been done, so I had to pull out the scrap wood and cut back to the joists to "tooth in" matching floorboards of alternating lengths. I borrowed Editor Chris Schwarz's Fein MultiMaster and went through several "E-Cut" blades as I made plunge cuts in the damaged boards at the middle of alternating joists. Then, using a cat's paw, I carefully removed the cut pieces. (The removal process was a great deal easier in the small hallway between the living room and kitchen. That entire area was severely water damaged, so everything had to come up – no need to be gentle.)


The living room floors are a mix of 3-1/4" and 4-1/4" boards. I was able to scavenge 3-1/4" boards from a large closet on my third floor, but I didn't have any 4-1/4" boards. I cut all the necessary 3-1/4" pieces to the correct lengths, and stacked them against the wall as I searched for 4-1/4" boards.

I also had a number of knotholes to fill in, so Senior Editor Glen Huey taught me how to pattern rout, and kindly lent me his router inlay kit. It seemed fairly simple — you cut a pattern out of 1/4" ply just a bit larger than the area to patch. You secure the pattern around the hole, and with the collar and bushing attached to the router, use a 1/8" spiral upcut bit to cut what's basically a lip around the outside of the hole. Then, secure the pattern to your patch material, and with the bushing removed, rout out a matching plug, and use your table saw to slice off the plug. Smear glue around the lip of the hole and the back of the patch, and tap it in place.

Turns out, it's far easier on the workbench than on a dusty, splintery uneven floor. In situ, I had to secure the pattern with my feet (no tape would hold; my 120 pounds was, however, quite sufficient) and use the router while bending at the waist directly over it. Then, I had to do a little handwork with a chisel, as many of the holes were near the wall, and the router wouldn't reach. And who knew – 100-year-old pine smells vaguely like cat urine when you push it too slowly through the table saw blade.

I was done with all the inlay work and removal of damaged boards on Feb. 5. My "new" floorboards were scheduled to be delivered on Feb. 6. So I put plywood over massive holes, and waited. And fretted. And waited. You see, I'd found what I was told was 100-year-old salvaged white pine floorboards at an outfit in South Carolina. They shipped it to me via DHL (the shipping cost as much as the 60bf of floorboards), and DHL misplaced the shipment in Atlanta. Luckily, they found it again, but it didn't arrive until Feb. 8, and I was on a tight deadline. Al Lovell Hardwood Floors was coming early on Feb. 12 to sand, stain and finish. (Yeah, yeah – what can I say? I hate sanding.)

I got about eight hours of sleep the entire weekend, but I got the replacement boards in place. As the entire floor is rather gappy, it wasn't particularly delicate or tight work. There were only a few boards from which I had to cut off the bottom of the groove side in order to lever the pieces in place. I used an 18-gauge nail gun to secure the "new" boards to the joist through the tongues and grooves, though I did have to face nail in a few places to keep them from creaking.

The cats and I moved to a neighbor's house for a week while Al and his crew took over. I had a bit of a scare when Al told me they were having trouble getting some old glue off the hallway floor, and I might want to think about installing tile there. But, they came back the next day well-stocked with #20-grit, and – thankfully – were able to sand through the gunk. Then, they sealed, stained (Minwax cherry) and put down several coats of polyurethane.

J.J., Cleo and I are back home now, and while the oil finish is still a bit redolent, I'm very happy with how the floors look – even with the gaps and a few pieces of yellow pine mixed in. And the cats are pleased to be reunited with their toys. Now, I just have to run 100 feet of baseboard....

– Megan Fitzpatrick






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Wednesday, February 20, 2008 11:02:03 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [5] 
# Friday, February 15, 2008
Finishing Seminar with Bob Flexner

Popular Woodworking contributing editor and finishing guru Bob Flexner is leading a two-day finishing seminar June 21 & 22 at the Marc Adams School of Woodworking in Franklin, Ind. A few seats are still available.

This seminar will give you a thorough understanding of wood finishing, and help you overcome any finishing trepidation you might have. Through a combination of lecture and demonstration, Bob will show you how to properly use brushes and spray equipment, how to prepare your projects for successful finishing and how to choose the best finish for your work. Then, you’ll learn the best applications methods for a wide variety of finishes, including pigment, dye stains, shellac, polyurethane and more – plus you’ll find out how to overcome specific finishing challenges, and discover how keep your finishes looking new for years to come.

To register ($250), click here. For more information, visit the school’s web site at marcadams.com, or call (317) 535-4013 .

— Megan Fitzpatrick


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Friday, February 15, 2008 3:37:58 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [0] 
# Monday, January 28, 2008
Subscribe by Feb. 1 to Get Woodworking Magazine Spring 2008

This Friday – February 1 – is the last day to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine to ensure you get the Spring 2008 issue delivered right to your door.

Inside, the Spring issue, you’ll find plans and step-by-step instructions for building two Stickley Tabourets, as well as technique articles on understanding backsaws and learning how to use a handsaw properly for the best results. Plus, we investigate and test the various methods for cutting perfect circles and settle on the best technique. You’ll also find plans for a handsome circular cutting board, and discover how to apply glaze for the best results.

Coming up in the Summer issue (on which we’re now hard at work!), we take a look at finger joints, and how to cut them better and cheaper – no $300+ jig or table saw needed – you can make your own jig out of plywood and get perfect results!
 
Then, we use the finger joint to build an adaptation of a Shaker blanket chest and a sea chest with tapered sides.  Plus, you’ll find technique articles on trimming end grain with both hand tools and power tools, and step-by-step instructions for producing an aged painted finish. You’ll also find a review of woodworking screws – and will likely be surprised by our conclusions (the most expensive aren’t the best).



Make sure you don’t miss the Spring 2008 issue – click here to order your charter subscription to Woodworking Magazine by February 1.
— Megan Fitzpatrick


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Monday, January 28, 2008 11:40:20 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [1] 
# Friday, January 25, 2008
When Novice Woodworkers Hit a Bad Patch...

I have a long-standing aversion to traditional psychiatric therapy – but I'm of mostly Irish descent, have red hair, and the temper that goes with it. So, to deal with aggression, I turn to DIY projects around the house (plus, I'm cheap, and refuse to set the thermostat above 60° despite our current 14° temperature in Cincinnati, so the work helps keep me warm).

My last project was redoing my 1970s-style bathroom (I posted a picture of the shower in an earlier entry here). But that's about finished (I still have some trim moulding to run, but I've managed to overlook that for some time now).

When I bought my 1895 house seven years ago, the first thing I planned to do was tear out the nasty green carpet in the living room and dejected-looking parquet in the dining room and hallway, and lay down new flooring. So finally, after seven years of kvetching about the ugly carpet and sad parquet, I got started on it last Sunday. I began in the dining room, and when I got down to the original pine flooring, I was very excited. As you can see in the picture at the top (along with the tiny Christmas tree I have yet to put away), it's actually in pretty good condition, and I was fairly certain it could be sanded, refinished and made to look right pretty. So I called my floor guy and made an appointment for him to come over and take a look (I hate sanding – my skinflint nature halts abruptly when it comes to doing things I despise).

Then, I got started in the living room, dutifully cutting the carpet into 4' pieces and rolling them per the specifications of our local trash collectors. Underneath was a layer of Masonite, so I pulled all that too, along with what seemed like thousands of nails. And then I hit a bad patch. A very bad patch – literally. But hey, I'm a novice woodworker – how hard can it be to tooth in replacement boards? Simply cut out the bad boards at the joists with a circ saw, clean up the ends of the cut with a chisel, and nail a proper patch into place.



Well, like most of my crazy undertakings, it turns out to be harder than I expected – mostly because I need 100-year-old boards, so they'll match. I've scavenged material from the third-floor closet, where I'll put in new replacement boards (no one will ever see those), and started to cut the patches to size. But, the third floor has only 3-1/4" boards, and the living room is a mix of 3-1/4" and 4-1/4". If anyone knows where I can find 25-35 board feet of 100-year-old pine floor boards, please let me know. And if anyone has the name of a good psychiatrist....

— Megan Fitzpatrick

p.s. For the record, I wore gloves. But there was no jointer in sight.


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Friday, January 25, 2008 11:05:57 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [8] 
# Tuesday, November 27, 2007
Dovetail Update -- Half-blind

A few months back, Senior Editor Glen D. Huey taught me his "no fail" method for cutting through dovetails, and, following Editor Chris Schwarz's advice, I cut one set a day for 30 days (OK -- I cut them only during the work week, and ended up with about 24 sets). I posted the method and accompanying pictures on this blog in two parts. For Part 1, the Pin Board, click here; for Part 2, the Tail Board, click here.

For half-blind dovetails, the method really isn't much different -- you still mark, saw and chop. You simply don't saw all the way through the half-blind tail board. I learned to cut half-blinds while making inset drawers for a Chimney Cupboard that will be in the February 2008 issue. First, I milled 1/2" stock and cut the through-dovetails for joining the drawer sides to the drawer back. Up to this point, the method is the same as detailed in Parts 1 and 2 above.

Then, I set my marking gauge to 1/2" (aka the thickness of my sides), and scribed a line at that setting on the inside face of each of my drawer fronts. My drawer fronts are 7/8" thick, and the idea is to leave at least 1/4" of material in back of the pins, so I had to change the setup on my marking gauge to mark the depth of cut on the end. Use this same setup to scribe the baseline on your tail boards (the side pieces).

Here, I diverge from Glen's method a bit. He marks out his pins (and tails) with a pencil; I now prefer to use a marking knife, as I find my saw drops easily into the scribe line, and for me, that makes it easier to begin the cut. Whether you use a pencil or marking knife, the layout remains the same. Clamp the drawer front with the face away from you. Lay your dovetail gauge on top so the wider end is facing away from you, then, mark your first pin 1/4" or so in from the top edge of the drawer starting the mark in the gauge line you've already scribed. Mark the second pin at the bottom edge, in 1/4" or so. Now, you'll have one big waste area marked.

This is a 4" drawer, so I measured and marked two more pins (the 5" drawer also has two pins and two half-pins, the 6" drawer has thre full pins and two half-pins), and marked an X in the waste areas. As with through dovetails, you want to saw on the waste side of the line; having that waste area clearly marked cuts down on mistakes.


Now clamp the front face-side down flat on your bench, with the end to be cut hanging slightly over the edge. Instead of sawing through the face as you would with a through dovetail), the angle on your saw should be less severe.

Saw down to the line 1/4" from the front edge; at the same time, you'll be sawing past the scribe line on the back face of the drawer front by about 1". (I had trouble believing this...so I went home and pulled out drawers from various pieces of antique furniture I own. Lo and behold — there were saw kerfs on the inside face of every drawer front.)

It's on to chopping out the waste, just as you would with a through dovetail. The only difference is, you stop when you get down to your 1/4" scribe line, and square the bottom. As always, undercut each just a hair. To keep from breaking out the pin edges, chop the top edges of the waste at an angle to the pins and knock it out.

You've already scribed the baseline on your tail boards (the side pieces of the drawer). Put the drawer side face down on your bench, and balance the drawer front on top of the side so that the baseline of the drawer side is even with the inside edge of the drawer front, then transfer the layout for the tails to the drawer side. Now, it's a through cut on the tail boards, which will fit snug with your half-blind dovetail sockets on the drawer front, creating a perfect half-blind dovetail joint (with a little practice, of course).

-- Megan Fitzpatrick


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Tuesday, November 27, 2007 12:34:20 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [5] 
# Tuesday, October 30, 2007
A Weighty Issue


A couple readers commented that the Shaker-inspired step stool we featured in the “I Can Do That” column in the November 2007 issue was missing horizontal supports across the sides, which were often seen on traditional Shaker stools (you can download the plans here). At the rear of the first step, there is 3-1/4" of long-grain-to-long-grain contact due to the cutout, so there was some concern that the glue joint wouldn’t be strong enough to hold under heavy weight, or over a long period of time, were that joint shorter.

We were careful to select tight, straight-grained stock with no defects for the side panel glue-up – an important consideration in any panel glue up that has to bear a lot of weight…not that we weigh a lot. But, just to be sure, we had three editors stand on the stool at once, as you can see in the picture above, and other than a few balance issues (hey — I haven’t finished my morning coffee yet), we didn’t experience any problems. There were no joints creaking (other than our knees), and the step stool held together just fine.

That being said, were the stool plans modified and the front glue joint were thus shorter, less long-grain-to-long-grain contact could present a problem — we wouldn’t recommend less than 2-1/2". And of course, it is historically accurate to have an interior side rail.

So if you have any concerns about the construction integrity (or simply want a more traditional look), add an interior rail across the panel glue-up on both sides, perpendicular to the bottom front horizontal support. You might also consider moving the back horizontal support to be parallel with the bottom front horizontal support, thus forming a square, and keeping the lines less cluttered (you can see an example of this construction in the Shaker Workshops catalog).

But, we had 550 pounds worth of editors on our stool (and no, I’m not giving you the breakdown of who weighs what), so I feel confident that it will hold.

— Megan Fitzpatrick


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Tuesday, October 30, 2007 10:22:39 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [8] 
# Thursday, June 21, 2007
Think it Can’t Happen to You?



We’ve all read the advice: Always spread out your oily rags on a table to dry, or drape them over the edge of a trash can, making sure they don’t overlap. Why? Because oxygen absorption generates heat as a by-product. If you leave your oily rags in a pile, the heat can’t dissipate and a fire may result.

But how often do we ignore that advice? After all, the odds are small a fire is actually going to happen – right?

Well, it happened. Oil-soaked rags sparked a June 20 fire in Arroyo Grande, Calif., that destroyed a brand-new home and resulted in $2 million in damage, reported the San Luis Obispo Tribune.  

So follow the advice religiously; spread your rags out to dry. Once they are dry and hard, you can safely throw them in the trash. But not a moment sooner.

— Megan Fitzpatrick


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Thursday, June 21, 2007 3:59:29 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [0] 
# Tuesday, May 22, 2007
Woodworking Dimensions













Like any profession, woodworking has a lot of jargon specific to the craft. And no matter how simple the project, I always seem to run smack up against this issue when writing woodworking articles.

Case in point: I recently finished building a wall box for the I Can Do That story in our August issue. The project was easy – just a few boards cut to size and nailed together. So I thought writing about it would be easy, too. And for the most part, it was. But, when my story made the first round through the other editors for changes, Senior Editor Bob Lang pointed out that my terminology was a bit off.

I wrote, “cut the shelf to the final width.” But, because the grain of the wood in the shelf runs side to side between the two upright pieces, what I was really doing was cutting it to final length.

However, to the novice reader (read: me and the target group for the I Can Do That projects), this is confusing. That piece of wood runs across the width of the shelf in the finished project, so if I wrote, “cut it to final length,” I suspect a lot of readers might be scratching their heads and wondering what the heck I meant. Because I didn’t have enough room to go into an explanation in the story, I simply wrote around the problem (a time-honored tradition in journalism).

But now I feel guilty about perpetuating my ignorance on unsuspecting readers, so here’s a quick primer I lifted from one of Bob’s books, “Shop Drawings for Craftsman Furniture.”

“For individual parts, width is always the direction across the wood grain, and length is always the direction with the grain,” writes Bob.

In the photo above, on the top piece you can see the grain running top to bottom...which is the length. The width runs across the long side, from left to right. So, the top piece is 2-1/2" long and 26" wide. The bottom piece, in which the grain runs left to right, is 21" long and 2" wide.

The orientation of the parts in the finished piece makes no difference when discussing the individual pieces.

Once, however, the pieces are put together, the dimension tags for the individual pieces no longer apply. For example, the long grain of a drawer front (the length, in pieces), runs across the width of a drawer. Oy vey.

Then there’s nominal v. actual size when buying lumber. See the ICDT manual for an explanation of that bugbear.

And don’t get me started on rebates/rabbets, cramps/clamps, trenches/grooves…

— Megan Fitzpatrick


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Tuesday, May 22, 2007 8:58:53 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [7] 
# Tuesday, May 08, 2007
Tool Test - Gramercy Tools Finishing Brushes
From December 2006 Popular Woodworking

First of all, these are very good brushes. I used the 2" version ($34.95) to apply three coats of shellac to the Whale Tail Shelves in the December 2006 issue (page 40). The brush held an ample load of shellac which meant I didn’t waste time with constant dipping (important when working with fast-drying finishes), shedding was minimal and brush marks were non-existent.

But what’s really great about these brushes is the story behind them. Joel Moskowitz and his team at Tools for Working Wood simply couldn’t find a finishing brush they liked, so they decided to make one. First, the team delved into all extant texts on traditional brushes and brushmaking techniques … that took about five minutes. So, they bought and used all the brushes on the market to see what worked, what didn’t, and how they could improve on what’s available.

What they developed are 100-percent European Ox Hair brushes, which are handmade in New York by one of the few remaining brushmakers in the country. And they’ve captured the arcane craft on video; download it and find out more about the process.

— Megan Fitzpatrick

More information on finishing brushes from Gramercy Tools


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Tuesday, May 08, 2007 4:12:01 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [0] 
# Wednesday, March 28, 2007
Glen D. Huey’s No-fail Dovetailing, Part 2: The Tail Board


Editor's note: The following is the second part of a three-part series on cutting through dovetails with a combination of hand and power tools. The first part, which involves the pin board, can be found through this link. Below is the second part. The third part will discuss how Glen developed the process for his custom shop.

With the pin board complete (click here for Part 1), it's time to transfer the shape of the pins onto the tail board. Lay your tail board face-side down on your bench. Line up your pin board at the end of the tail board, with the face side facing you (the narrow end of the pins should be at the front edge). Make sure the two pieces are flush at the front and sides.

Now trace the shape of the pins onto the tail board with a sharp pencil, then slide the pin board back and mark an “X” on the tail board directly in front of each pin (which is the waste area). Set the pin board aside.


Use a band saw to carefully cut along your lines on the waste side up to your baseline, leaving the pencil lines. As when you hand cut the pins, do all one direction first, then go back and change your angle for the other sides to avoid dancing back and forth at the saw. Now trim off the half-pin waste at the edges of the board. Also, make a cut down the center of each waste area (this will keep the waste from getting stuck as you remove it with your chisel). If you don’t have a band saw, you can make these cuts with your handsaw, though you’ll likely have more fitting issues unless your saw skills are dead on.


Clamp the tail board to your workbench (it doesn’t matter which side is facing up. Again, place your chisel just a hair in front of your baseline, with the bevel side facing the end of the board, and angle the chisel a couple degrees to undercut the joint. Strike once to define the baseline, then chisel out the waste. Unlike on the pin board, you won’t be able to remove the waste directly from the end; you’ll have to approach it at an angle at a point about 1/8” from the baseline. And remember, the bevel of your chisel should face up with this cut to help lever up the waste. Continue these two cuts until you’re about halfway through the board, then flip it over and repeat the process on the other face. The cut you made down the center of the waste will help eject. Clean out any remaining bits of waste on both workpieces with your chisel or an X-Acto knife.


Now you’re ready to test fit the two pieces. Place the tail board face-side down on the bench, and hold the pin board with the face side facing you. Walk the two pieces together until they’re about halfway joined. If you have any fitting problems, take them apart and trim away the bits that are sticking. And you’ll likely have fitting problems…even after some practice. It’s better to undercut then go back and refine where necessary than to overcut and cause gaps (as you can see I did on the second tail in the lead photo – oops). Once you have the pieces halfway joined by hand, a few strikes with a rubber mallet should seat the two workpieces together.

Inspect your work carefully, and identify any problems. You can work on those next time. Heck – after three weeks of almost daily practice, I’m still struggling with hitting the baseline perfectly on both sides when hand sawing, and I still overcut my tails from time to time. But as Editor Chris Schwarz keeps telling me, “It’s good enough for 18th-century casework” (because 18th-century woodworkers covered the visible dovetail faces with trim). Despite the wee gap, the dovetails will hold. Nonetheless, I’m going to keep working on those baselines.

 Megan Fitzpatrick with Glen D. Huey


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Wednesday, March 28, 2007 9:30:13 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [1] 
# Friday, March 23, 2007
Glen D. Huey’s No-Fail Dovetailing – Part 1



First, grab a long piece of wood, and chop it in half (5" wide is a good place to start and at least 6" long after cutting – you’ll need plenty of clamping real estate). Pine is a good choice to start with, because it has a high “mash factor,” which means it’s a little more forgiving on fit than say, oak. Choose a face side on each piece and mark it with an “F.”

If you have a marking gauge, set the measurement by using the end of your tail board (as shown below), and scribe the baseline for your dovetails on both faces of the pin board. And if you don’t have a marking gauge, measure the width and scribe your baseline with a knife against a straightedge.


Now, take your pin board and clamp it in your vise with the outside face away from you. Following Glen’s method, you mark and cut the pins first, which makes it easy to mark the tails later on (we'll cover that in Part 2).

Place your dovetail marking gauge (Glen swears by a 12° gauge, but other angles are available) on the face about a 1/4" in from the left edge, and mark the edge of your first half-pin as shown below. Then, place your dovetail marking gauge about 1/4" from the right edge and mark the half-pin on that side.

Now, you have to decide how wide each tail and pin will be. If you’re working with a 5"-wide board Glen suggests three tail areas (two would be too easy!). Divide the wide edge of the tail area (the space between the lines) into three sections. Make a mark at the center of each section that will become the center of a pin. Don’t worry about being too precise with the placement though – after all, if they’re perfectly spaced, people might not believe you cut the dovetails by hand!
Mark the pins with the dovetail gauge by moving 1/8" each direction from the marks.


Now transfer the lines down the face of the board to your scribe line using a combination square, as shown at right. You don’t have to mark the lines on the other face of the board, but you may find it helpful, at least until you get a little sawing practice in. Clearly mark the waste areas with a solid X, so you can tell at a glance what material you’re about to clean out.


Place your saw just outside the front inside corner of the left pin (which is its right edge), using your thumb as a guide. Always leave your line…but nothing more (it gets easier with practice).




You want the saw at a steep angle – the goal is to hit the back edge and the scribe line at the same time. Once you’ve hit the baseline in the front, angle the saw up and keep sawing, until the saw is parallel to the floor and you’ve hit the baseline on both sides. Go slowly and check your progress on the opposite side of the board (that’s where the additional lines come in handy). Stop when you reach the baseline.

Move on to the right side of the next pin, then the next and so on, until you’ve cut the right side of all your pins. Now go back and do the left sides. And always remember to “leave your line.” Why do all one side first? That way, your saw stays at the same angle for several cuts in a row, so you’re not having to constantly adjust the angle back and forth. It’s more efficient, and it helps build muscle memory.

Once you have all your pins cut, chop out the waste. Clamp the piece with the wider side of the waste area (the tail sockets) face up (you may want to put a scrap pieces between your workpiece and your bench). Place your chisel just a hair in front of your baseline, with the bevel side facing the end of the board, and angle the chisel a couple degrees to undercut the joint (make a slight concavity in the center of the waste areas), which will ensure there is no waste material remaining to interfere with the fit of the dovetail.

Because of the slight angle, your first mallet strike will drive the chisel into your baseline, and define the back edge of the tail area. Now, you’re ready to pop your first bit of waste. Place your chisel, bevel side up, at the upper edge of the end-grain area you’ve just chopped, and tap sharply with your mallet. The chisel should bite into the wood and lever up the waste. Now go back to chiseling the face of the board, again angling it just a few degrees, and give it a few sharp whacks with your mallet. Then chisel out the waste. Continue until you’re about halfway through the board, then flip it over and repeat the process on the other face. Work carefully on this face; the area is narrow so it’s easy to knock off a corner of the pins when removing waste and that shows in your dovetails.

Now your pin board is finished. We’ll move onto the tail board in the next installment.

– Megan Fitzpatrick & Glen D. Huey



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Friday, March 23, 2007 11:47:18 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [8] 
# Monday, March 12, 2007
The End of L-Brackets



After a few months as part of the Popular Woodworking staff, I started bugging the guys to teach me a little something about woodworking, beyond the few skills I picked up from wandering through the shop and asking questions. By that time, I’d learned just enough to be wholly embarrassed by the bookshelves I built 15 years ago out of #2 pine and L-brackets. My seven versions of “The Complete Shakespeare” deserve a better home. They deserve sliding dovetails – or at least a rabbet or two, for goodness sakes!

So Bob Lang was kind enough to teach me and several other non-woodworker staff members how to build the egg crate shelves he made for one of our first “I Can Do That” projects (August 2006). Then Chris Schwarz helped me build my first two ICDT projects: whale tail shelves (December 2006) and an antique tool/toy chest (February 2007). Glen Huey taught me a couple cool tricks while helping me make some simple Shaker shelves (April 2007), and now I’m working autonomously on a canted wall box for an upcoming ICDT story.

Now, I’m eager to move beyond the basics of the ICDT projects (and my far-below-basic L-bracket bookshelves) and tackle something a little more challenging. Such as the hand-cut dovetails I gave up on after but one try, almost a year ago. (Eventually, I hope to master sliding dovetails, and make an impressive set of bookcases using these tricky joints.)

I was intrigued by Chris’ February 2007 Out of the Woodwork, “A Dovetail a Day.” Therein, he extols the benefits of cutting one set of dovetails every day for one month. It sounds like a great idea, but as with any journey, that first step is the hardest. After all, there’s always another story to edit. Another reader with questions (which, by the way, we’re always happy to answer). Another meeting to attend. Another submission to consider. Another…

But last Monday, our power went out. No computers. No heating system. No phones. No table saws. Nothing to do but file papers or dig out from under the pile of paper that covers my desk. Or cut dovetails. Needless to say, I went with “cut dovetails.” Now herein lies the danger of having three expert teachers. Glen is a pins-first guy; Chris and Bob are tails-first guys. I’m whatever the guy standing next to me tells me to be. Right now, that’s Glen’s pins-first method, on Chris’ dovetail-a-day plan. (Bob likes to walk through the shop and ask, “Are you sure you’re holding that chisel correctly?” Well, no. I’m not sure. But I’m sure someone will be glad to tell me.)

Anyway, after a week of marking, sawing and chopping, my dovetails have noticeably improved. I truly think I could cut a case full of dovetails far more quickly than I could set up a jig to do it for me (and anyway, I’m rather afraid of the router). Last Monday, it took me around two hours to cut one set. By Friday, I could do the same number of tails and pins in a half-hour, and they looked far better. Not perfect, but better.

Last week, I used pine. This week, I’ll tackle poplar. And next week, cherry. Now I don’t know if I’ll be ready for curly maple at the end of my sentence, but I will certainly have learned my lesson, and learned it well. I’ll never use L-brackets again.

— Megan Fitzpatrick


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Monday, March 12, 2007 1:30:15 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [6] 
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