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  <title>Popular Woodworking</title>
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  <updated>2008-05-14T10:12:23.4061250-04:00</updated>
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    <name>F+W Publications, Inc.</name>
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  <subtitle>Learn How. Discover Why. Build Better</subtitle>
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  <entry>
    <title>High Heels and Pounce Bags</title>
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    <published>2008-05-13T14:28:02.9840000-04:00</published>
    <updated>2008-05-14T10:12:23.4061250-04:00</updated>
    <category term="Read other entries by Megan Fitzpatrick" label="Read other entries by Megan Fitzpatrick" scheme="dasBlog" />
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                  Last Sunday, in <a href="http://www.nytimes.com/2008/05/11/magazine/11Girls-t.html?_r=1&amp;oref=slogin"><i>The
                  New York Times Magazine</i> cover story</a>, Michael Sokolove reported that in the
                  world of sports, “Girls are more likely suffer chronic knee pain as well as shinsplints
                  and stress fractures.” And, according to some research, ankle sprains, hip and back
                  pain are more prevalent among women athletes, as are concussions in sports that both
                  sexes play.<br /><br />
                  I guess I’m lucky. I played soccer for three decades and while my knees do hurt on
                  occasion, I never tore an anterior cruciate ligament (aka ACL). After a mild sprain
                  or two, my right ankle isn’t quite as strong as it once was, but I’ve never been on
                  crutches for more than a week. And no concussions (at least none I remember). What
                  finally ended the game for me was a snapped wrist during a stint as keeper. I was
                  in a cast for four months, and my right wrist is now chronically weak – and I’m chronically
                  afraid of breaking it again. (But for the record, I blocked that shot.)<br /><br />
                  The difference between men and women, according to experts Sokolove interviewed, is
                  biometrics. Quite simply, men and women are built differently, and after puberty,
                  men tend to add muscle whereas women tend to add fat, so women don’t have the same
                  intrinsic strength to support muscle and ligament movements. And, because of women’s
                  hip shapes, we tend to run differently. According to some experts, the female body
                  can be trained to address these differences, which may reduce injuries.<br /><br />
                  I find a similar issue in woodworking from time to time. At 5'5", I’m of average height
                  for a woman. But the benches in our shop were built by men, and my bench used to belong
                  to Editor Christopher Schwarz, who is just shy of a foot taller than am I. So, properly
                  using a hand plane at that bench is for me impossible, as my elbows are always bent
                  far more than they ought to be. This is an easy fix — either build my own bench…or
                  wear high heels. (Thus far, I’ve opted for the heels.)<br /><br /><img src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/content/binary/bnchheels.jpg" align="left" border="0" hspace="8" vspace="8" /><img src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/content/binary/bnchnoheels.jpg" align="right" border="0" hspace="8" vspace="12" /><i><br /></i></p>
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                  <i>On the left, I'm wearing 4" heels; on the right, I'm in flats.</i>
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               Sawing is also a challenge, at least for some women. In “How to Saw” in the <a href="http://www.fwmagazines.com/product/908/38">Spring
               2008 <i>Woodworking Magazine</i></a>, Chris illustrates proper sawing stance, with
               his legs and body positioned straight on to the cut, and the elbow of his sawing arm
               swinging freely past his torso. Let’s just say that if I line my body up in the same
               way, my sawing arm cannot swing straight back unimpeded. In this situation, I opt
               to stand a bit left of center…or wear a sports bra. Again, it boils down to a fashion
               choice.<br /><p><br />
                  It took me a long time to get comfortable with our Powermatic table saw, too. Pushing
                  a board through the cut is quite scary for me. Compared to the guys, my torso is a
                  lot lower and closer to the blade when I lean forward, and my arms are a lot a shorter.
                  So, my hand, arms and chest are always closer to the blade. Thus, I have to more often
                  give up some workpiece control by using a push stick when one of the guys might not
                  choose to use one.<br /><br />
                  And then there’s gloves (no, <a href="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/Dont+Use+Push+Pads+Or+Sticks+Part+2.aspx">I
                  don’t wear them at the jointer</a>). One size does not fit all. It doesn’t even come
                  close. Forget the home center or hardware store. When I need nitrile or vinyl gloves
                  for messy finishing jobs, I have to drive miles to a medical supply store. And even
                  then, I’m not always able to find women’s smalls.<br /><br />
                  Hand-held tools can also be a challenge. We have some drills in our shop that I simply
                  cannot pick up and use with one hand, due to their weight. And on others, the grip
                  is far too large to be comfortable. I realize these tools are designed for the “average”
                  user – but I do wish more manufacturers paid attention to the fact that far more women
                  are now buying and using tools. I don’t think our relatively smaller frames and hand
                  sizes are usually factored into that “average.” (Of course, my chronically weak right
                  wrist doesn’t help matters. Darn – guess I can’t use that Firestorm pictured above.)<br /><br />
                  In my soccer “career,” until college I was usually the only girl on the team. I wasn’t
                  the best player, but I could hold my own. By age 16, most of the guys were faster,
                  stronger and a whole lot bigger than was I. So I compensated by improving my blocking,
                  tackling and passing. I’ve had to learn some similar “fixes” in woodworking. And of
                  course, it affords me the opportunity to match my <a href="http://www.woodworking-magazine.com/blog/My+First+Pair+Of+Pantyhose.aspx">pounce
                  bag</a> to my shoes. 
                  <br /><br /><br /></p><p></p><img src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/content/binary/shoes.jpg" border="0" /><br /><br /><i><a href="mailto:megan.fitzpatrick@fwpubs.com">— Megan Fitzpatrick</a><br /><br /></i></div>
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  <entry>
    <title>Glen-Drake Tools Visits Popular Woodworking</title>
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    <published>2008-05-12T11:34:06.7490000-04:00</published>
    <updated>2008-05-13T15:01:35.4530000-04:00</updated>
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            Last Thursday we held our first reader event of the year here at our offices and shop.
            This is one of the best parts of working here. We invite readers to come in for a
            free meal and an opportunity to take an up-close, hands-on look at tools and meet
            the makers. In the past, we've welcomed Bridge City Toolworks, Leigh Dovetail jigs
            and Bosch. This time we welcomed <a href="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/Woodworking+Tourist+GlenDrake+Toolworks.aspx">Kevin
            Drake</a>, owner and founder of <a href="http://www.glen-drake.com/index.html">Glen-Drake
            Toolworks</a>.
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            <br />
         That's Kevin on the right, preparing to turn a tool handle for us. He'll be writing
         an article in an upcoming issue of <i>Popular Woodworking</i> on turning for "flat"
         woodworkers. Our ace photographer, Al Parrish, is getting set to take the opening
         shot for the article, and Senior Editor Glen D. Huey is taking video. When we were
         done, it was time to clean up the shop and get ready for company.<br /><br /><img src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/content/binary/KDV_2.jpg" align="middle" border="0" hspace="8" vspace="8" /><br />
         After a fine meal, more than 50 readers settled in to watch a demonstration of the
         tools made by Glen-Drake, and to listen to Kevin talk about his philosophy of woodworking
         and toolmaking. One of our all-time favorite tools is the Glen-Drake <a href="http://blog.lostartpress.com/2008/05/10/The+Beginnings+Of+The+TiteMark.aspx">Tite-Mark</a> cutting
         gauge, and Kevin is one of our favorite people. Not many people have the ability to
         improve on tools that have been around for hundreds of years, and he has done just
         that with his marking gauge, hammers, and his latest creation, the <a href="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/GlenDrake+Wild+West+Joinery+SawNew+Idea+In+Sawing.aspx">Wild
         West Joinery Saw</a> seen in the photo above.<br /><br /><img src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/content/binary/KDV_3.jpg" align="middle" border="0" hspace="8" vspace="8" /><br />
         Kevin has developed a method for cutting dovetails that makes the process predictable
         and precise. Using the Kerf-Starter and Offset Gauge shown above, the fit can be fine-tuned
         before cutting. This is a great example of questioning processes most of us take for
         granted, and developing new solutions. After listening to Kevin and seeing the details
         on a video screen, it was time to head out to the shop.<br /><br /><img src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/content/binary/KDV_4.jpg" align="middle" border="0" hspace="8" vspace="8" /><br />
         There's nothing like taking a tool in your hands and giving it a try, and it's even
         better when you can get a lesson from the guy who dreamed it up. Here a few readers
         are getting a good look at the technique for the joinery saw before taking it for
         a test drive.<br /><br />
         If you'd like more information on Glen-Drake tools, there is a DVD available that
         explains the theories behind them, and how to use them. You can get a copy for free
         by calling 800-961-1569. Kevin will be appearing with us at <a href="http://woodworkinginamerica.com/">Woodworking
         in America</a> next November in Berea, Ky. Editor Christopher Schwarz will have some
         posts over at the <a href="http://www.woodworking-magazine.com/blog/"><i>Woodworking
         Magazine</i> blog</a>, and we'll have video of Kevin's visit up on the <a href="http://www.popularwoodworking.com/video/"><i>Popular
         Woodworking</i> video</a> page in the near future.<br /><br /><i><a href="mailto:robert.lang@fwpubs.com">– Bob Lang</a></i><p></p></div>
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  <entry>
    <title>SKIL Benchtop Tools and NASCAR</title>
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    <published>2008-05-09T13:49:28.1410000-04:00</published>
    <updated>2008-05-09T15:35:31.2660998-04:00</updated>
    <category term="Read other entries by Glen D. Huey" label="Read other entries by Glen D. Huey" scheme="dasBlog" />
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                    <img src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/content/binary/Opener.gif" align="left" border="0" hspace="8" vspace="8" />Last
                     Thursday evening after a regular workday, I jumped on a plane to Charlotte, N.C.,
                     to attend a <a href="http://www.skiltools.com/en/">SKIL Tools</a> media event. The
                     event centered on a new line of SKIL benchtop tools. <a href="http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=categorySelect&amp;category=Tools&amp;Ne=9000&amp;N=0">Lowe’s</a> and
                     SKIL have partnered to produce and distribute a new line of tools for the up-and-coming
                     woodworker. All the tools are entry-level tools – although I could see a couple of
                     these tools hanging around a shop as experience grows. 
                     <br /><br />
                     So what are the tools? Here you go. New to the market and expected to be in stores
                     by September ’08 are a <b>10" table saw</b> (3305-01), a <b>10" benchtop drill press</b> (3320-01),
                     a <b>10" compound miter saw</b> (3315-01) and a <b>9" band saw</b> (3385-01) that
                     has a 2.5-amp motor with two speed settings and a fully adjustable, tilting table
                     (there’s also a work light that didn’t quite reach around to the front of the blade
                     – where you need it – and a laser that I find all-but-useless on a band saw). There’s
                     a <b>universal miter saw stand</b> (3300MS) that accommodates most compound saws up
                     to 12" and most sliding compound miter saws up to 10" (quick-fit mounting brackets
                     make it a snap to install your miter saw on the stand, or lift the saw off for easy
                     movement), a <b>combination belt and disc sander</b> (3375-01) that uses a 4" x 36"
                     belt and 6" disc and has an easy-to-move table for making use of either setup, a <b>10"
                     scroll saw</b> (3335-01) with a 16" deep throat and electronic variable speed control
                     and finally as well as a <b>6" bench grinder</b> (3380-01) with two wheels – coarse
                     and medium – and eye shields with built-in LED lighting. Each of these tools are expected
                     to be priced at $99 while the grinder is slated at $40.<br /><br />
                     The table saw has a cast aluminum tabletop, a 15-amp motor and comes complete with
                     a heavy-duty stand.  There’s a self-aligning fence, a lockable on/off switch
                     and all the accessories attach to the base of the saw. I used this saw to rip stock
                     for a project built during the event and it did just fine. No, it’s not a Powermatic
                     66. It’s not supposed to be. But at this price, you just might want to have a SKIL
                     table saw in your shop for a quick cut or special circumstances.<br /><br />
                     The benchtop drill press has five speed settings, a keyed 1/2" chuck and a battery-operated,
                     two-beam laser that projects an “X” for accurate drill locations. I don’t know about
                     you, but the drill press is a little-used tool in my shop. I’ve gone years with a
                     radial drill press. I’ve seen no need for a floor-model tool. In my opinion, this
                     drill press could handle most of the tasks I would ask of it.<br /><img src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/content/binary/Table-Extension.gif" align="right" border="0" hspace="8" vspace="8" /><br />
                     SKIL’s 10" compound miter saw has a few interesting features. I like the table extensions
                     (shown in the photo). The extensions slide along a rail for multiple positions, then
                     lock with a simple twist knob at the back. The entire rail can be set to either side
                     of the saw depending on your work. In addition, this miter saw has a dual lock-off
                     switch that allows smooth operation whether you’re a righty or a lefty. A 15-amp motor
                     has no trouble spinning an included carbide tooth blade. And, safety is covered with
                     this saw. When fully engaged in a cut, the blade guard never opens past a 5 o’clock
                     position. This greatly reduces your exposure to the blade. This is another tool I
                     expect could be used well into a woodworking career.<br /><br />
                     Once these tools are released, we’ll get a chance to put them through the tests and
                     see how they stand up to the competition and how they work in the shop. For a quick
                     look at the tools, click the SKIL Tool's link below. And if you’re interested in additional
                     information about the tools, click on the “About the Tools” file below.
                  </p>
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                     How does <a href="http://www.nascar.com/">NASCAR</a> fit into this entry? As a bonus
                     for attending their event, SKIL set up an afternoon at <a href="http://www.lowesmotorspeedway.com/">Lowe’s
                     Motor Speedway</a> for a ride-along with the <a href="http://www.1800bepetty.com/experience/experience.aspx">Richard
                     Petty Driving Experience</a>. (Did I tell you how much I like this job?)<br /><br />
                     Each of us had an opportunity to take a few laps around the track reaching 165 mph.
                     I wasn’t awed by the speed on the straight, but when you dip into the corner you feel
                     the force. And there was no need to worry about sliding around in the car. First of
                     all, those drivers must be a bit smaller around the mid-section than me because I
                     barely squeezed into the seat. Then there are the safety precautions. Attached to
                     me were more belts, clips and buckles than there are at a leather-goods facility.<br /><br />
                     The time was short, but I had a blast. If you’re in the area and haven’t done a ride-along,
                     or if you’re planning a visit to Charlotte, give it a try. I guarantee you’ll be smiling
                     as you exit the cars – we all did. And they pay me to do this.<br /></p>
                  <p>
                  </p>
                  <a href="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/content/binary/About%20the%20Tools.pdf">About
                  the Tools.pdf (107.98 KB)</a>
                  <br />
                </div>
                <a href="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/content/binary/SKILLTOOLs.pdf">SKILLTOOLs.pdf
               (1.23 MB)</a>
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                <a href="mailto:glen.huey@fwpubs.com">
                  <i>–Glen D. Huey</i>
                </a>
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  <entry>
    <title>Woodworking Safety Week: My Story and Others</title>
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    <published>2008-05-04T20:59:10.2470000-04:00</published>
    <updated>2008-05-08T08:00:59.5937500-04:00</updated>
    <category term="Read other entries by Christopher Schwarz" label="Read other entries by Christopher Schwarz" scheme="dasBlog" />
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                      <img src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/content/binary/tusk.jpg" border="0" />
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                    <p>
                        Every once and awhile, I scoot this tusk tenon from out of its mortise, pull off my
                        eyeglasses and press the tenon to my skull. It’s a simple but important reminder of
                        where this all began for me.<br /><br />
                        Hmmm, before I begin there, let me back up even more.<br /><br />
                        Safety on most jobsites and in most workshops is job No. 4 – somewhere after the importance
                        of the Makita girl calendar and somewhere before the obligation to clean out the Binks
                        spray gun.<br /><br />
                        When I began working wood at age 8, I never had a safety lecture. Perhaps it wasn’t
                        as necessary. We didn’t have electricity on our farm so the chances of me dismembering
                        myself with our family’s ultra-dull Craftsman handsaw were rather slim. I’m sure my
                        dad didn’t lie awake at night thinking about all the damage I’d do to myself with
                        the crap-tacular coping saw in my tool tote. Safety just wasn’t as big a deal when
                        you have only hand tools at your disposal. Sure, you can hurt yourself, but it takes
                        some doing.<br /><br />
                        When I started at <i>Popular Woodworking</i> in 1996, however, it was like being let
                        loose in a candy store after closing time. There were all the machines that my father
                        and I had dreamed of on the farm. Table saws, drill presses, mortisers (that’s plural!
                        Meaning more than one mortiser!) and disc sanders galore.<br /><br />
                        During this initial love affair with the unspeakable beauty of three-phase power,
                        fellow employee David Thiel and I were assigned to build a couple Gustav Stickley-style
                        tabourets for the magazine. The tabourets had legs that tapered in width and tapered
                        from the floor to the top. Plus they were joined to their stretchers with friction-fit
                        tusk tenons.<br /><br />
                        Each table has eight of these little tusks, and because we were building two little
                        tables for the article, I had 16 little tusks to cut, chamfer and fit into their mortises.<br /><br />
                        This was a job for the utterly awesome Wilton disc sander we hand at the time.<br /><br />
                        As you probably know, the disc sander is a fairly safe machine – as long as you work
                        on the side of the disc that is spinning down against the table. The other side of
                        the disc should be avoided – or you could lose control of your work.<br /><br />
                        I was merrily sanding away my little chamfers on these tusks when I casually slid
                        over into the “no work” zone to touch up the inside tapered face of the tusk shown
                        above. I lost control of the tenon and it flew up at me. 
                        <br /><br />
                        I wasn’t wearing safety goggles or glasses.<br /><br />
                        Instead of skewering my eyeball like some sort of k-bob, the tenon struck my skull
                        at the top of my left eyebrow and below the eye. The instant it happened, I turned
                        off the machine and went to the bathroom (luckily I hadn’t soiled myself). The tenon
                        left two red welts on my face.<br /><br />
                        Since that moment, I have always worn safety equipment (glasses and hearing protection),
                        and I have strived to keep the guarding on all my machines. Come visit us sometime,
                        you’ll find we have a basket guard and splitter on our table saw. Today I noted that
                        the splitter was broken, and so in honor to “safety week,” I’m going to get it fixed.<br /><br />
                        And then there’s that tusk tenon. The little table has never been my favorite, but
                        I can’t get rid of it. It’s a painful reminder of one of the dumbest things I’ve ever
                        done, and how I’ve become much smarter ever since.<br /><br />
                        Still to this day, that is the closest call I’ve had in 28 years. Not bad.<br /><br />
                        Below are some of the other bloggers who have posted stories on their sites about
                        this week. Some are funny, some are serious and some are sad. All are important. Check
                        them out.
                     </p>
                    <p>
                        • Jeff Skiver: <a href="http://jeffskiver.blogspot.com/2008/05/safely-dealing-with-big-cats.html">Safely
                        Dealing With Scared Cats</a></p>
                     • The Village Carpenter's <a href="http://villagecarpenter.blogspot.com/2008/05/safety-first.html">Top
                     10 Safety List</a><br /><br />
                     • Matt's Basement Workshop on <a href="http://mattswoodshop.libsyn.com/index.php?post_id=335735#">workshop
                     dust</a><br /><br />
                     • The Wood Whisperer and Lumberjock's <a href="http://thewoodwhisperer.com/lumberjockswoodwhisperer-safety-video-challenge/">Safety
                     Challenge</a> (This week was all Marc's idea, by the way. Kudos, sir.)<br /><br />
                     • Stu's Shed's <a href="http://stusshed.wordpress.com/safety/">Safety Posts</a>.<br /><br />
                     • Al Navas and the <a href="http://sandal-woodsblog.com/2008/05/04/a-table-saw-a-carnation-and-my-left-thumb/">Carnation
                     flower injury</a> (good post).<br /><br />
                     • <a href="http://kaleosworkshop.com/kickn-off-woodworking-safety-week/">Keleo's Workshop</a> kicks
                     off the week with a funny (but also disturbing) clip from MadTV.<br /><br />
                     • <i>Fine Woodworking</i> has posted some good safety videos on <a href="http://blogs.taunton.com/n/blogs/blog.aspx?webtag=fw-editorsblog&amp;entry=262">shop
                     communication rules and router safety</a>.<br /><br />
                     • Craig Stevens posted a video for <a href="http://www.woodworkersresource.com/video-blog/woodshop-safety-for-kids/">teaching
                     safety</a> to your children, a good chart on the hazards of <a href="http://www.woodworkersresource.com/blog/having-a-reaction-to-wood-is-nothing-to-take-lightly/">wood
                     dust</a> and a third post on cleaning up <a href="http://www.woodworkersresource.com/blog/cleaning-brushes-and-disposing-of-left-over-finish/">finishes
                     safely</a>.<br /><br />
                     Check back this week for more stories and important information.<br /><br /><a href="mailto:chris.schwarz@fwpubs.com"><i>— Christopher Schwarz</i></a><br /><p></p></div>
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  <entry>
    <title>Update on Woodworking in America</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/Update+On+Woodworking+In+America.aspx" />
    <id>http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/PermaLink,guid,a44e72b2-6260-4e84-96e6-4250a5024857.aspx</id>
    <published>2008-05-02T15:13:30.6290000-04:00</published>
    <updated>2008-05-05T09:23:39.6381250-04:00</updated>
    <category term="Read other entries by Megan Fitzpatrick" label="Read other entries by Megan Fitzpatrick" scheme="dasBlog" />
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                  <p>
                    <br />
                     As you may have read in an earlier post, <i>Popular Woodworking</i> and our sister
                     publication, <a href="http://woodworking-magazine.com/"><i>Woodworking Magazine</i></a>,
                     are sponsoring the first-ever weekend conference devoted to hand tools and learning
                     to use them.<br /><br />
                     We're calling it <a href="http://woodworkinginamerica.com/">Woodworking in America</a><a href="http://woodworkinginamerica.com/">:
                     Hand Tools &amp; Techniques Conference 2008</a>, and we'll be bringing together the
                     country's best hand-tool woodworkers and manufacturers for a symposium in Berea, Ky.,
                     on Nov. 14-16.<br /><br />
                     There will be more than 40 short classes on tools and techniques during the long weekend,
                     plus a marketplace where toolmakers can display (and sell) their wares, social events
                     with the demonstrators and toolmakers and more.<br /><br />
                     On April 28, we announced a long <a href="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/First+Look+Woodworking+In+America.aspx">list
                     of distinguished woodworkers and toolmakers</a> who will join us, and now we're delighted
                     to let you know that we've added two more to the list: <a href="http://www.brianboggschairs.com/">Brian
                     Boggs</a> (who is renowned for making gorgeous, comfortable chairs) and David Jeske
                     (owner, founder and fine hand-tool maker of <a href="http://www.bluesprucetoolworks.com/about/index.htm">Blue
                     Spruce Toolworks</a>). And we're still working on the list.<br /><br />
                     In addition, journalists from some of the web's top woodworking sites will be on hand
                     to interview attendees, toolmakers and teachers, and share their impressions of the
                     conference online. We're pleased to welcome <a href="http://thewoodwhisperer.com/">The
                     Wood Whisperer</a> (aka Marc Spagnuolo), <a href="http://www.mattswoodshop.libsyn.com/">Matt's
                     Basement Workshop</a> (aka Matt Vanderlist), <a href="http://villagecarpenter.blogspot.com/">The
                     Village Carpenter</a> (aka Kari Hultman) and <a href="http://furnitology.com/about.htm">Furnitology.com</a> (aka
                     Neil Lamens).<br /><br />
                     Registration for <a href="http://woodworkinginamerica.com/">Woodworking in America</a> will
                     begin in June. Visit the conference site to sign up for the e-newsletter, and you'll
                     be the first to know when the registration "desk" opens.
                  </p>
                  <p>
                    <i>
                      <a href="mailto:megan.fitzpatrick@fwpubs.com">— Megan Fitzpatrick</a>
                    </i>
                    <br />
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  <entry>
    <title>Challenges &amp; Dovetails: Closet-Cleaning Day</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/Challenges++Dovetails+ClosetCleaning+Day.aspx" />
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    <published>2008-04-30T11:52:55.6180000-04:00</published>
    <updated>2008-04-30T13:26:18.5407500-04:00</updated>
    <category term="Read other entries by Glen D. Huey" label="Read other entries by Glen D. Huey" scheme="dasBlog" />
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                          <b>Design a Bookcase Challenge</b>
                          <br />
                          <img src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/content/binary/bookcase-1N.gif" align="left" border="0" hspace="8" vspace="8" />The
                              LumberJocks and <i>Popular Woodworking</i> partnership to design, build and publish
                              a winning bookcase has come to a close, and a winning entry has been selected. I must
                              say this turned into a difficult task for the magazine editors. We didn’t come to
                              fist-to-cuffs. It wasn’t a knockdown, drag-out, office-clearing brawl. But, each editor
                              brought to the table their favorites to have them applauded or shot down, one by one.<br /><br />
                              Slowly we weeded through the entries and narrowed the field to three. Those three
                              are:<br />
                              Ryan Shervill’s <a href="http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/RyanShervill/blog/4320">"Shoji
                              Screen Inspired Bookcase"</a>, Daniel’s (Blackdog Workshop) <a href="http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/blackdogwoodshop/blog/4401">"A&amp;C
                              Bookcase with Magazine Drawers"</a> and Charlie’s (Wheresmytools) <a href="http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/wheresmytools/blog/4296">"Sliding
                              Dovetails Bookcase"</a>.<br /><img src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/content/binary/Combined.gif" align="middle" border="0" hspace="8" vspace="8" /><br />
                              After kicking around what we would do with the designs if we were to build them, we
                              reached a consensus with Shervill’s design. I look forward to seeing the process of
                              bringing this design to the pages of <i>Popular Woodworking</i> magazine. I think
                              we’ll see many bookcases built from this design. (<a href="http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/msojka/blog/4463">Click
                              here</a> to read the LumberJocks announcement.)<br /><br /><b>Antique Dovetails</b><br /><br />
                              On April 15th I posted an entry titled, <a href="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/My+Take+On+Dovetail+Angles.aspx">"My
                              Take On Dovetail Angles."</a> (Interestingly, I wrote about a taxing subject for many
                              woodworkers on Tax Day.) In the entry I state, “Don’t accept the traditional ratios.
                              I’ll bet a study of furniture and drawer construction from the 1700s through today
                              would turn up many different dovetail angles.”<br /><br />
                              This past week, while traveling to Frank’s Cabinet Shop – where <a href="http://www.frankklausz.com/homepage.html">Frank
                              Klausz</a> does his woodworking – I took a side trip to <a href="http://www.clprickett.com/index.htm">C.
                              L. Prickett’s</a> antique shop. The folks at Prickett’s shop graciously granted me
                              permission to photograph many of the drawer dovetails on pieces in their inventory.<br /><img src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/content/binary/Drawers.gif" align="middle" border="0" hspace="8" vspace="8" /><br />
                              I hope, as you look at the photos, two revelations come to mind. The first is that
                              the angles are not strictly set at a traditional slope, so feel free to angle those
                              pins and tails as you see fit. And second, notice the quality of craftsmanship – it’s
                              not that great. 
                              <br /><br />
                              It’s easy to notice a good set of fine dovetails. Look at what you consider the best
                              drawer joint, then look at the worst joint. There is much variation. But take heart,
                              none of the dovetails were on pieces with price tags of less than $80,000. 
                              <br /><br />
                              The lesson is always the same. A finely fitted dovetail joint on a shabbily built,
                              poor design doesn’t make the piece better. I would rather see average dovetails on
                              a great design, built with better craftsmanship.<br /><br />
                              As far as the trip to see Mr. Klausz, we’re going to give you a look inside his shop
                              and we’ve got video showing him in action as he demonstrates a few techniques for
                              an upcoming article. Hang tight, I'll let you know when it's available.<br /><br /></p>
                        <p>
                        </p>
                        <a href="mailto:glen.huey@fwpubs.com">
                          <i>– Glen D. Huey</i>
                        </a>
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  </entry>
  <entry>
    <title>First Look: Woodworking in America</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/First+Look+Woodworking+In+America.aspx" />
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    <published>2008-04-28T13:33:31.3680000-04:00</published>
    <updated>2008-04-30T22:47:44.4313750-04:00</updated>
    <category term="Read other entries by Christopher Schwarz" label="Read other entries by Christopher Schwarz" scheme="dasBlog" />
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                    <p>
                        This fall, our magazine is sponsoring the first-ever weekend conference devoted to
                        hand tools and learning to use them.<br /><br />
                        We're calling it the <a href="http://www.woodworkinginamerica.com/">Woodworking in
                        America</a> conference, and we'll be bringing together the country's best hand-tool
                        woodworkers and manufacturers for a symposium in Berea, Ky., on Nov. 14-16.<br /><br />
                        There will be more than 40 short classes on tools and techniques during the long weekend,
                        plus a marketplace where toolmakers can display (and sell) their wares, social events
                        with the demonstrators and toolmakers and more.<br /><br />
                        So who is going to be there? Here's the list of people who have agreed to teach seminars
                        during Woodworking in America as of this date (with more to come):<br /><br /><b>Roy Underhill:</b> Known as "St. Roy" to the legion of fans who watch "The Woodwright's
                        Shop" on PBS, Roy worked at Colonial Williamsburg and then launched his show about
                        traditional hand tools.<br /><br /><b>Frank Klausz:</b> One of the country's consummate craftsmen, <a href="http://frankklausz.com/">Frank</a> is
                        a professional New Jersey cabinetmaker who trained in Hungary and has a lifetime of
                        experience with the full range of handwork.<br /><b><br />
                        Michael Dunbar:</b> Founder of <a href="http://thewindsorinstitute.com/">The Windsor
                        Institute</a>, Michael has single handedly revived the craft of building Windsor chairs,
                        has trained thousands of woodworkers and is a passionate student of the art and history
                        of handcraft.<br /><b><br />
                        Adam Cherubini: </b>The author of <i>Popular Woodworking</i>'s popular "Arts &amp;
                        Mysteries" column, <a href="http://adamcherubini.com/Welcome.html">Adam</a> is a devoted
                        18th-century woodworker who builds period pieces using period tools.<br /><br /><b>James Blauvelt:</b> A Connecticut cabinetmaker, joiner and carpenter, James owns <a href="http://bluefieldjoiners.com/">Bluefield
                        Joiners</a> and is a student and teacher of Japanese tools and traditions.<br /><br /><b>Robin Lee: </b>The president of<a href="http://www.leevalley.com/home.aspx"> Lee
                        Valley Tools </a>in Ottawa, Ontario, Robin has been a driving force behind the expansion
                        of the Veritas line of premium handplanes and a caretaker of the company's immense
                        tool collection.<br /><b><br />
                        Thomas Lie-Nielsen:</b> The founder of <a href="http://www.lie-nielsen.com/">Lie-Nielsen
                        Toolworks</a> in Warren, Me., Thomas has been making and selling premium traditional
                        hand tools for 27 years. Thomas's company was the trailblazer in reviving many traditional
                        forms of tools that had been lost.<br /><br /><b>Larry Williams and Don McConnell:</b> Two of the principals behind <a href="http://planemaker.com/">Clark
                        &amp; Williams</a> in Eureka Springs, Ark., Larry and Don are bottomless wells of
                        information about traditional tools and their workings. Both are accomplished woodworkers,
                        planemakers and tool historians.<br /><b><br />
                        John Economaki:</b> The founder of <a href="http://www.bridgecitytools.com/">Bridge
                        City Tool Works</a> in Portland, Ore., John has long been a pioneer in developing
                        new (and very beautiful) forms of hand tools for woodworkers. 
                        <br /><b><br />
                        Konrad Sauer:</b> The owner of <a href="http://sauerandsteiner.com">Sauer &amp; Steiner</a> Toolworks
                        in Ontario, Konrad is one of the leading makers of custom infill handplanes. 
                        <br /><br /><b>Wayne Anderson:</b><a href="http://andersonplanes.com/">Wayne</a> specializes
                        in designing and building custom infill handplanes that are deeply rooted in the past
                        but are each a completely original work of art.<br /><br /><b>Ron Hock:</b> One of the earliest and most important players in the revival of
                        handtools, <a href="http://hocktools.com/">Ron</a> makes high-quality replacement
                        plane irons, chipbreakers and marking knives in Ft. Bragg, Calif. 
                        <br /><br /><b>Mike Wenzloff:</b> The founder of <a href="http://wenzloffandsons.com/">Wenzloff
                        &amp; Sons</a> sawmakers in Forest Grove, Ore., Mike is a long-time woodworker and
                        expert in saws and saw sharpening. His premium saw business has exploded in the last
                        two years.
                     </p>
                    <b>Joel Moskowitz:</b> The founder of <a href="http://www.toolsforworkingwood.com">Tools
                     for Working Wood</a> and an expert on woodworking history, Joel has recently been
                     making many traditional hand tools, as well as selling them through his catalog and
                     web site. <p><b>Clarence Blanchard:</b> The publisher of <a href="http://www.finetoolj.com/">"The
                        Fine Tool Journal"</a> and the president of Brown Auction Services, Clarence sees
                        more old tools in a week than most of us see in a lifetime.<br /><br />
                        If you are interested in attending, please visit the web site that is dedicated to
                        this conference at <a href="http://www.woodworkinginamerica.com/">WoodworkinginAmerica.com</a> and
                        sign up for the conference's newsletter (the sign-up box is on the top right of the
                        page). You'll then be the first to be notified of when registration will open (it
                        will be before July 1) and the pricing for this event.<br /><br />
                        Attendance will be limited to a few hundred people (we want to keep the event intimate
                        and manageable), so be sure to <a href="http://www.woodworkinginamerica.com/">register</a> as
                        soon as slots become available. We are expecting the conference to sell out.<br /><br />
                        There are more announcements and surprises ahead that I cannot share with you right
                        now, so please stay tuned to the blog and the conference's newsletter.<br /><br /><a href="mailto:chris.schwarz@fwpubs.com"><i>— Christopher Schwarz</i></a></p></div>
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  <entry>
    <title>Lines and Miters and Errors Oh My</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/Lines+And+Miters+And+Errors+Oh+My.aspx" />
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    <published>2008-04-28T10:46:56.1340000-04:00</published>
    <updated>2008-04-28T10:46:56.1345000-04:00</updated>
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         In our <a href="http://www.popularwoodworking.com/magazineindex?mid=17610">June</a> issue,
         our <a href="http://www.popularwoodworking.com/icandothat">I Can Do That</a> feature
         is a mitered <a href="http://www.popularwoodworking.com/articleabstract?aid=17620">CD/DVD
         rack</a>. Our goal for these columns is to show that attractive, well made projects
         can be made with a minimal amount of tools and time. Most people want something to
         show for their effort while they are learning and you won't need to apologize for
         any of these projects. If you want to go further in your developing skills you'll
         have a good start as well as evidence that you can make some nice stuff. The idea
         for this column is to minimize the frustration level and hit the ground running. Miters
         can be especially frustrating, so we focused the technique in the article on gluing
         them together without having them slide out of place. That is miter frustration number
         1. 
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      One of my earliest projects was a clock face in a mitered frame. I was about 16 at
      the time and it was my dad's idea to make this clock as a present for his aunt. Dad
      was an engineer, not a woodworker and the two of us really struggled to get the corners
      to close and look good. One of our problems was we didn't know when to be really,
      really fussy and when we could say "close enough". With the miters on the book rack
      above, you can ignore slight errors in the angles or in the length and concentrate
      on assembling the joints. If you make a four-sided frame however, you need to be a
      perfectionist.<p></p><p><img src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/content/binary/mitergaps1.jpg" alt="mitergaps1.jpg" align="middle" border="0" height="241" hspace="8" vspace="8" width="480" /></p><p>
         I played around with SketchUp to demonstrate what can happen if you're close, but
         not quite there. These four pieces are 3/4" x 3/4", and the angles on the ends are
         only off by one-half of a degree, a tolerance many people would consider "good enough".
         As you can see, each of these small errors joins the others, and the final corner
         has a gap that is huge. You can try to close it up with various clamps and fasteners,
         but the chances of success are slim. So what if you get closer? What if you can come
         within 1/10 of a degree?
      </p><p><img src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/content/binary/mitergaps.jpg" alt="mitergaps.jpg" align="middle" border="0" height="326" hspace="8" vspace="8" width="480" /></p><p>
         Here the gap is much smaller, but still significant. The other bad thing that can
         happen here is if the pieces aren't perfectly straight, or all the same length. A
         bow in the length will change the effective angle and the joints won't close. A variation
         in the length will cause similar problems. A lot of joints that seem more complicated
         than miters are actually less risky to make because there are ways to make small adjustments
         during fitting and assembly. Miters appear simple and easy. And they are, with one
         big "IF". If the pieces are straight, the same length and the correct angle they go
         right together.
      </p><p>
         So make sure your saw or shooting board or whatever you use is dead on accurate. Get
         a reliable machinist's square (I recommend a <a href="http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=3&amp;p=57065&amp;cat=1,42936">Starrett</a>)
         to check your work. Stick the pointy end of the miter between the blade and stock
         of the square and hold it up to a source of light. If you can see any gaps your angle
         is off. Resist the temptation to say "close enough" and take the time to make it right.
         When you think you're right, put two pieces together, and use the other end of the
         square to make sure the joint is really and truly at 90 degrees. Then you have defeated
         miter frustration number 2.<br /><br /><a href="mailto:robert.lang@fwpubs.com">--Bob Lang</a><br /></p></div>
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  </entry>
  <entry>
    <title>"Flexner on Finishing" Live</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/Flexner+On+Finishing+Live.aspx" />
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    <published>2008-04-22T15:34:01.7610000-04:00</published>
    <updated>2008-04-23T09:23:39.4328750-04:00</updated>
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              <p>
               When the topic is finishing, <i>Popular Woodworking</i> magazine turns to Bob Flexner
               for answers. We believe he is the foremost expert when it comes to anything from alkyd-based
               varnish to using Xylene as a solvent and thinner. We might be biased because he writes
               our "Flexner on Finishing" columns found in nearly every issue for the past decade,
               but the fact that Bob writes for many other publications reaffirms our belief.<br /><br />
               Bob also teaches classes throughout the country. A few weeks back he was at the <a href="http://marcadams.com/home.html">Marc
               Adams School of Woodworking</a> to teach a two-day seminar on finishing. Then, while
               so close to Cincinnati, Bob accepted an invitation to present a similar class to the <a href="http://cincinnatiwoodworkingclub.org/">Cincinnati
               Woodworking Club</a> and that seminar was hosted at the <i>Popular Woodworking</i> office
               and shop. Luckily, I was on hand for the Sunday session and I quickly decided that
               I wish I'd been available for Saturday’s portion as well.<br /><br />
               If I had attended both days, I expect I would have had the same look that many of
               the participants had when they left late in the afternoon on the second day. Due to
               his vast knowledge on finishing and his willingness to pass information on to others,
               he shares so much in his seminars that there's a lot of stuff to digest.<br /><br />
               Facts such as how to properly clean a brush. Simple right? I thought I knew what to
               do, too. But, Bob quickly had me understanding I didn't know the secret. He had a
               few brushes that he passed around that, after many cleanings, were as soft and usable
               as they were when purchased quite a few years back. The secret, according to Bob,
               is to complete the cleanup with soap and water and repeat until you get a good suds.
               That’s the final step no matter what finish was applied with your brush. I have to
               admit, I’ve never washed my brush with soap and water. And, I cannot tell you the
               times I’ve returned to a brush weeks later and had to bend and twist the bristles
               to be able to use the brush a second time.<br /><br />
               Another tidbit I scooped up about brush cleaning dealt with shellac. As you may know,
               I’m a fan of shellac. I like the quick drying time of shellac as well as the replication
               of what I consider a period-type finish. And while I spray most of my finishes, I
               do occasionally dip some bristles into shellac. For me, cleaning shellac from my brush
               was a matter of dredging the brush through a number of cups of fresh alcohol until
               I felt the shellac was removed. If you think about that process, I was (as Bob pointed
               out) simply thinning the shellac with each rinsing, hopefully reaching a point when
               the shellac was gone. I wouldn’t know if I needed to twist the bristles or not until
               the brush dried. 
               <br /><img src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/content/binary/FlexnerPolish.gif" align="left" border="0" hspace="8" vspace="8" /><br />
               Bob’s solution is to wash the shellac brush with a 50/50 mixture of household ammonia
               and water. Ammonia breaks down the shellac. Then finish with soap and water (look
               for suds). There’s an idea I had never heard before, but I will undoubtedly try the
               next time I need to clean shellac from my brush. 
               <br /><br />
               These are but a few of the tips picked up during the seminar. Bob also spent time
               explaining <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/French_polish">French polish</a>.
               I filmed a majority of his presentation on French polish and I hope to add that to
               our video pages in the next few weeks. If you have any interest in French polish,
               don’t miss it.<br /><br />
               And if you have an opportunity to catch one of Bob's seminars, I highly suggest you
               do so. Go prepared to process a huge amount of finishing information, take great notes
               and stay sharp because I know you’ll gather in some tidbit that improves your finishing
               abilities. I sure did.<br /><a href="http://www.amazon.com/UNDERSTANDING-WOOD-FINISHING-BOB-FLEXNER/dp/B000H6EJ4U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;s=hi&amp;qid=1208892737&amp;sr=8-2"><img src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/content/binary/BKFinishing.gif" align="right" border="0" hspace="8" vspace="8" /></a><br />
               And if you cannot locate his seminar somewhere close to you, his book, <a href="http://www.amazon.com/UNDERSTANDING-WOOD-FINISHING-BOB-FLEXNER/dp/B000H6EJ4U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;s=hi&amp;qid=1208892737&amp;sr=8-2">"Understanding
               Wood Finishing"</a> (Peachtree Woodworking) covers many of the topics and is invaluable
               as you begin finishing pieces with something more than wipe-on oil.<br /><br />
               Got any tips to share or questions about finishing, post you comments or concerns
               and we’ll see if others can benefit from your shared knowledge or help get you answers.
               Or, I’ll thumb through Bob’s book – I’ll bet he has the topic covered within the pages.
            </p>
              <p>
                <a href="mailto:glen.huey@fwpubs.com">
                  <i>–Glen D. Huey</i>
                </a>
                <br />
                
            </p>
              <p>
               p.s. We also have a lot of Bob's Popular Woodworking articles available for free on
               our site's <a href="http://popularwoodworking.com/finishing">Finishing Page</a>.<br /></p>
              <p>
              </p>
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  </entry>
  <entry>
    <title>Popular Woodworking Welcomes 'The Wood Whisperer'</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/Popular+Woodworking+Welcomes+The+Wood+Whisperer.aspx" />
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    <published>2008-04-22T10:06:00.8070000-04:00</published>
    <updated>2008-04-22T10:15:27.7141250-04:00</updated>
    <category term="Read other entries by Christopher Schwarz" label="Read other entries by Christopher Schwarz" scheme="dasBlog" />
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              <p>
                <img src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/content/binary/Whisperer1.jpg" border="0" />
              </p>
              <p>
               Managing Editor Megan Fitzpatrick grabbed our magazine's digital camera and told Marc <a href="http://thewoodwhisperer.com/">"The
               Wood Whisperer"</a> Spagnuolo to hold still for a photograph.<br /><br />
               "I need to take a headshot," she announced.<br /><br />
               "So do I," replied Marc, as he lifted up his video camera and pointed it at Megan.<br /><br />
               For a few short moments they stood there with their cameras pointed at one another.
               Then I told them to "take this outside." They did.<br /><br />
               On Monday morning, Marc and his wife/business partner/camera operator, Nicole, visited
               the <i>Popular Woodworking</i>'s editorial offices to shoot video footage of us working
               in the shop and plowing through more than a dozen doughnuts, which Senior Editor Glen
               Huey brought in.<br /><br />
               Marc is the host of the very popular web site <a href="http://thewoodwhisperer.com/">thewoodwhisperer.com</a>,
               which offers scads of free instructional woodworking videos, shop tours, audio programs
               about woodworking and links to other like-minded woodworking sites.<br /><br />
               He's also our newest contributor. Starting in the August 2008 issue, Marc will be
               writing a column in every issue on a woodworking technique, which we have cleverly
               titled "The Wood Whisperer." In addition to the written column, Marc will be posting
               a video on our site at <a href="http://popularwoodworking.com/video/">popularwoodworking.com/video</a> that
               will show that technique in action.
            </p>
              <p>
                <img src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/content/binary/Whisperer2.jpg" align="right" border="0" hspace="8" vspace="8" />
              </p>
              <p>
               During Marc and Nicole's visit, we forced them to sit through our Monday morning staff
               meeting (which is really a doughnut-eating contest in disguise), then we headed into
               the shop to shoot video. After a quick tour of the shop, they interviewed Bob about
               the project he's working on for the August issue, and they chatted with Glen about
               his woodworking. Both video pieces should appear on his site in the future (assuming
               they can get some of the profanity bleeped out).<br /><br />
               Glen also shot some video of Marc and Nicole, then we went to my house and shop, where
               I gave them a tour of some of my personal work and my small workshop.<br /><br />
               Most of all, the day was a great excuse to get to know more about Marc and Nicole,
               who represent the vanguard of where woodworking instruction is headed this century.<br /><br />
               Marc, 31, is from Trenton, N.J., and studied biotech in college. After graduation,
               he headed out to San Diego for work and met Nicole when she answered an advertisement
               for a roommate to share an apartment. They've been together ever since.<br /><br />
               When they moved out to Temecula, Calif., they bought their first house and it needed
               some work. One table saw and a flooring project later, Marc become hooked on the craft.
               Well, obsessed might be a better word – that's the word he uses.<br /><br />
               His interest in the craft deepened when he encountered <a href="http://www.djmarks.com/channels/djmnews.asp">David
               Mark's</a> cable program "Wood Works." Marc eventually studied with Marks in his Santa
               Rosa, Calif., studio and then opened his own custom woodworking shop in Phoenix, Ariz.<br /><br />
               From there, it was short hop to take everything Marc learned – and his enthusiasm
               for teaching it – to the Internet, where he launched <a href="http://thewoodwhisperer.com/">thewoodwhisperer.com</a>.<br /><br />
               If you don't know Marc yet, I encourage you to scoot over to his site and take a look
               at some of the excellent content there. Watch a few videos (they are well done and
               Marc's a funny guy) and listen to one of his broadcasts of <a href="http://thewoodwhisperer.com/woodtalkonline/">Wood
               Talk Online</a> with buddy <a href="http://mattswoodshop.libsyn.com/index.php?post_id=329766#">Matt
               Vanderlist</a>. Or just browse through his blog.<br /><br />
               And watch this space for more on The Wood Whisperer. Once we get some of our video
               edited, we'll post that on our video player.<br /><br /><a href="mailto:chris.schwarz@fwpubs.com"><i>— Christopher Schwarz</i></a><br /></p>
              <p>
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  </entry>
  <entry>
    <title>Tool Test: Mortise Pal</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/Tool+Test+Mortise+Pal.aspx" />
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    <published>2008-04-18T13:23:47.8280000-04:00</published>
    <updated>2008-04-18T14:23:30.5769078-04:00</updated>
    <category term="Read other entries by Glen D. Huey" label="Read other entries by Glen D. Huey" scheme="dasBlog" />
    <category term="Read other Tool Tests" label="Read other Tool Tests" scheme="dasBlog" />
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                  <p>
                    <img src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/content/binary/MPOpener.gif" align="middle" border="0" hspace="8" vspace="8" />
                    <br />
                     While surfing around the woodworking sites, I found mention of this jig for cutting
                     mortises. It’s a Mortise Pal (<a href="http://www.mortisepal.com/">mortisepal.com</a>).
                     If you have a plunge router (weighing less than 12 pounds), a 5/8" outside-diameter
                     bushing and an upcut router bit, you can create mortises for mortise-and-tenon joints
                     and loose-tenon joinery using a Mortise Pal.<br /><br />
                     To use a Mortise Pal you need a 6" base on your router. If you use a smaller base,
                     due to the jig’s design, the base could slip off one side resulting in a bad mortise
                     (the router rides on top of the side supports). Also, pay attention if your router’s
                     base is something other than round. As for weight, 12 pounds pretty much restricts
                     you to a 2-1/4 hp router or smaller, so don’t try to hoist up that 3+hp hog and cut
                     mortises.<br /><br />
                     And of course, an upcut router bit is best because it pulls waste from the mortise
                     and the cut will be easier to make, and cleaner when finished.<br /><br />
                     Any stock in which you want to cut a mortise in the end can be a minimum of 1" in
                     width. Stock thickness can be from 2" to 3/4" (you can mortise thinner stock by arranging
                     shims as shown in the manual, which you can download off the web site or below). The
                     mortise length is determined by the mortising templates (four sizes are included in
                     the kit) and the router bit size (a maximum 1/2" due to what fits through the bushing).
                     Changing the templates is a snap and locking them into position is both secure and
                     reliable with each change.<br /><img src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/content/binary/IMG_0991.gif" align="left" border="0" hspace="8" vspace="8" /><br />
                     Layouts for mortises you cut with the Mortise Pal are different from the method most
                     of us are accustomed to using. For this tool, find the center of your desired mortise
                     along both length and width, then use the engraved line and small pointer on the jig
                     to set up the cut.  Once you’ve dialed into your lines, lock the brass thumbscrew,
                     twist the lock knob to secure and you’re ready to work. (To watch a Mortise Pal in
                     action, <a href="http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=h17DNeWXyao">click here</a>.)<br /><br />
                     I don’t cut mortises with a router most times; I have a mortise machine for that task.
                     But, if you don’t have a dedicated mortise tool, a Mortise Pal is a good choice. (Hand-tool
                     Neanderthals take a breath, please.) One area that always bothered me when building
                     furniture was when I mitered a base frame on a chest of drawers or other case piece.
                     I often chose to use a biscuit joiner for the connection. Because the Mortise Pal
                     fits the workpiece, especially if the piece is mitered, I see using the Mortise Pal
                     there for a simple loose tenon connection, resulting in a strong joint.<br /><img src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/content/binary/IMG_0993.gif" align="right" border="0" hspace="8" vspace="8" /><br />
                     Bottom line: the Mortise Pal is well-machined tool that works. I think it’s a bit
                     pricy at $189, but the Mortise Pal has CNC machined anodized aluminum parts along
                     with stainless steel parts, and the templates are polycarbonate. In my opinion, there
                     was no skimping on manufacturing. Also, if you buy a dedicated mortise machine, you’ll
                     spend more and not have the mobility or range of uses you have with this tool. And,
                     you’ll get the job completed quicker than if you hog out material at a drill press,
                     then clean up the mortise with your chisel.<br /><br />
                     Here’s a tip for routing mortises. Plunge the mortise area first, then slide the router
                     along the cut to clean out and remove any left-behind waste material. I plunge the
                     ends of the mortise then move to the center before clearing the cut. This may be old
                     news for you, but I picked up the process just a little while back – there is always
                     something new to learn while woodworking.<br /><br /><a href="mailto:glen.huey@fwpubs.com"><i>– Glen D. Huey</i></a><br /></p>
                  <p>
                  </p>
                  <a href="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/content/binary/Mortise%20Pal%20Manual.pdf">Mortise
                  Pal Manual.pdf (785.41 KB)</a>
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  </entry>
  <entry>
    <title>My Take On Dovetail Angles</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/My+Take+On+Dovetail+Angles.aspx" />
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    <published>2008-04-15T14:09:45.9980000-04:00</published>
    <updated>2008-04-15T20:04:07.3737500-04:00</updated>
    <category term="Read other entries by Glen D. Huey" label="Read other entries by Glen D. Huey" scheme="dasBlog" />
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                <p>
                  <img src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/content/binary/Dovetails.gif" align="middle" border="0" hspace="8" vspace="8" />
                  <br />
                  My take on dovetail angles might appear to be strange, but I have solid reasons for
                  my choice – if I do say so myself. Here goes.<br /><br />
                  Dovetail angles are most notably described in degrees, but is often stated as a ratio,
                  either 1:8 or 1:6. These ratios translate into a 7º or a 9º angle. These are the established
                  angles; the angles we’re suppose to bow to upon pulling our marking gauges from the
                  bench drawer as we prepare to cut the parts of the joint. One angle is suggested (a
                  better word might be mandated) for softwoods (9º) and the other for hardwoods. 
                  <br /><br />
                  So, do you need two sets of marking or layout tools? One set for working dovetails
                  in softwood and one for hardwoods? Why would you want to purchase tools that do the
                  exact same task, only at a different angle? And, where is the dovetail joint used
                  for the most part? That’s right, in drawer construction. Many woodworkers use a combination
                  of hardwood drawer fronts with either hardwood sides (poplar) or softwood sides (pine).
                  Yes there are other combinations, but I venture to say these are the most common in
                  American antiques throughout the major furniture periods of Queen Anne, Chippendale
                  and Federal.<br /><br />
                  I use Newport, R.I., as a demarcation line for typical woods used to build drawers
                  and if you’re building reproduction furniture from Newport south (not Southern designs
                  that use yellow pine as a secondary wood), you are probably using two hardwoods for
                  your drawer parts; poplar as the sides, backs and bottoms with another primary hardwood
                  as your drawer fronts. The two hardwoods traditionally dictate using a 7º slope. 
                  <br /><br />
                  But, what about us poor souls building drawers based on New England designs? Designs
                  built north of Newport, R.I., where drawers use hardwood for the fronts and softwood,
                  namely pine, as other drawer parts. What angle should we choose for our dovetails:
                  7º that matches the use of hardwood, or 9º used for softwoods? What a conundrum.<br />
                   <br />
                  Additionally, we have the development of the dovetail jigs that suggest (there’s that
                  word again) we use a 14º-dovetail router bit to make the tails and a straight bit
                  to cut the pins. I can say I like the slope of these dovetails much better. Aesthetically,
                  these are more pleasing to my eye. And that’s what I think should drive your dovetail
                  angles – aesthetics.<br />
                   <img src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/content/binary/DTTools.gif" align="right" border="0" hspace="8" vspace="8" /><br />
                  Don’t accept the traditional ratios. I’ll bet a study of furniture and drawer construction
                  from the 1700s through today would turn up many different dovetail angles. Of course,
                  I’ve used the 7º, 9º and 14º angles during the period I used dovetail jigs to cut
                  my joints. I’ll bet when I switched over to hand-cutting dovetails I used a few angles
                  in between as well – as a beginner, it’s nearly impossible to stay on the layout lines.
                  I know of no joint failures and not once have I seen the angles break or shear along
                  the slope of the tail (something preached if the slope grows well beyond the traditional
                  ratios).<br /><br /><b>The Angle I Use</b><br /><br />
                  So, where am I today with this dovetail angle question? I use a 12º angle. Why 12º,
                  you may ask? Here’s my reasoning. I certainly wasn’t going to switch angles depending
                  on the application (too much wasted time) and I wanted an angle that fit somewhere
                  in the middle of the established slopes.  And how many places does the number
                  12 show up in our world? We have 12 months in a year. Two sets of 12 hours in a day.
                  Most people know that a dozen of anything is 12. And to bring it in line with woodworking,
                  if you’re fitting a raised panel into a 1/4" groove and the panel needs to be the
                  full width of the groove as it rests tight to the bottom of the groove (a snug fit
                  so the panels don’t rattle), you need to set a 12º-angle cut for the panels.<br /><br />
                  And most important, <u>I like the angle when I look at it.</u><br /><br />
                  Is it just me? Am I crazy? (That’s a question I’m sure I’ll get a few comments on.
                  Remember the glove incident?) What degree slope do you use for your dovetails and
                  why?
               </p>
                <a href="mailto:glen.huey@fwpubs.com">– <i>Glen D. Huey</i></a>
                <br />
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  </entry>
  <entry>
    <title>Tool Review: Veritas Dovetail Saw Guide</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/Tool+Review+Veritas+Dovetail+Saw+Guide.aspx" />
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    <published>2008-04-15T13:57:14.1080000-04:00</published>
    <updated>2008-04-15T15:42:20.0925000-04:00</updated>
    <category term="Read other entries by Glen D. Huey" label="Read other entries by Glen D. Huey" scheme="dasBlog" />
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                  <img src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/content/binary/LVGuide.gif" align="middle" border="0" hspace="8" vspace="8" />
                  <br />
                  Lee Valley Tools sent out a new product release for a guide used for cutting dovetails.
                  It’s not really a new guide, but a new angle for the guide. The reconfigured <a href="http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&amp;p=59416&amp;cat=1,42884">Veritas
                  14º Dovetail Guide (05T0205)</a> has a 14º-angle cut instead of the 7º or 9º slope
                  that's associated with the oft-quoted dovetail ratios of 1:8 and 1:6. (For more on
                  my thoughts about dovetail angles, <a href="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/My+Take+On+Dovetail+Angles.aspx">click
                  here</a> or at the bottom of this entry.)<br /><br />
                  I’ve had occasion to use a 1:6 ratio guide, and although it was for a limited amount
                  of time, I was very impressed with the way the guide held the saw in the correct position
                  for woodworkers. So, I was interested in getting the new design into the shop to evaluate
                  after a lengthier period of use.<br /><br />
                  The guide is made with an anodized aluminum body and has a 3/4" rare earth magnet
                  embedded at both ends of the jig. Those magnets grip your saw and hold it at the correct
                  position, angled at 14º. Each end of the guide is covered with UHMW plastic to protect
                  the jig, and your saw, as you make cuts. The guide and complete instructions come
                  as one package, or you can purchase the guide, instructions and a saw as a second
                  package. 
                  <br /><img src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/content/binary/LVGuide2.gif" align="left" border="0" hspace="8" vspace="8" /><br />
                  Any saw without a back can be used with the guide and Lee Valley has the saw they
                  recommend (<a href="http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&amp;p=59416&amp;cat=1,42884">click
                  here</a> to see the guide with that saw), but I had another idea. The <a href="http://www.woodworking-magazine.com/backissue.asp?issuedate=9/1/2007">Autumn
                  2007 <i>Woodworking Magazine </i>(issue #8) </a>ran an article discussing flush-cut
                  saws. In that article we listed Lee Valley’s <a href="http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=2&amp;cat=1,42884,50663&amp;p=50663">kugihiki
                  (60T06.20)</a> as "highly recommended." I used this flush-cut saw with the guide and
                  found it worked great. I recommend purchasing the kugihiki and making the saw work
                  double duty as both your dovetail guide saw and your flush-cut saw.<br /><br />
                  This guide does not automatically produce a dovetail joint. You need an understanding
                  of dovetails at the outset. You’ll need to know the difference between "tails" and
                  "pins" as well as have a certain understanding of layout and what’s the waste side
                  of your layout lines (information provided in the included instructions). With that
                  information at hand, this guide helps improve the quality and accuracy of your cuts.<br /><br />
                  I’m a "pins first" dovetailer, so naturally I began cutting the pins. This is the
                  only experience I had with the guide earlier and I knew the jig worked great here.
                  I started with a half pin on both ends of my board, then positioned and cut two full
                  pins in between. Once the guide is clamped at a layout line, the saw snapped to the
                  magnet and was held perfectly vertical as I made the 14º cut. The cut came out perfectly
                  straight. Next, I chopped out the waste to finish my pins and used the pin board as
                  a layout tool for the tails. 
                  <br /><img src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/content/binary/LVGuide3.gif" align="right" border="0" hspace="8" vspace="8" /><br />
                  A sharp pencil provides tight, accurate lines and that’s exactly what I needed to
                  position the guide. The clamp portion of the guide can be removed and repositioned
                  to cut the tails of the joint, too (see the photo at right). I set the guide so my
                  pencil lines were just covered – that forces you to cut on the waste side of your
                  lines – and made the cuts that define the tails. Clean out the pin waste and the tails
                  portion of the joint is complete. Slide the pins into the tails and the dovetail joint
                  is made. This guide can also be used to cut half-blind dovetails. 
                  <br /><br />
                  To read more about dovetail angles, <a href="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/My+Take+On+Dovetail+Angles.aspx">click
                  here</a>.
               </p>
                <br />
                <p>
                  – <a href="mailto:glen.huey@fwpubs.com"><i>Glen D. Huey</i></a><br /></p>
                <p>
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  <entry>
    <title>Steel City Contest Winner</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/Steel+City+Contest+Winner.aspx" />
    <id>http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/PermaLink,guid,ae407a23-2956-4777-8699-3e525d94411b.aspx</id>
    <published>2008-04-09T14:57:47.6870000-04:00</published>
    <updated>2008-04-09T15:09:32.3281250-04:00</updated>
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            <div>The winner of the <a href="http://www.steelcitytoolworks.com/products_tools.cfm?section=2&amp;category=12&amp;tool=35900G">Steel
            City Tool Works 10" Granite-topped Table Saw</a> is (drumroll please): Ron Burris,
            Sr., a retired chief master sergeant with the United States Air Force.<br /><br /><img src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/content/binary/Burris.jpg" align="left" border="0" hspace="8" vspace="8" />"I
            can’t tell you enough how thrilled I am to be the lucky one that was chosen as the
            winner of such a wonderful table saw," wrote Burris. 
            <br /><br />
            "This saw will help me continue to improve my skill level as a woodworker. When I
            retired from the Air Force I wasn’t sure what I was going to do with all my spare
            time. Over the past seven years, I have spent a lot of that time renovating an old
            house.  It’s hard to believe but I really enjoyed learning how to DO-IT-YOURSELF
            and it really sparked my interest in working with wood. 
            <br /><br />
            "I have been upgrading some of my power tools over the last year or so with plans
            for a new table saw and drill press this summer.  Thanks to all of you at <i>Popular
            Woodworking</i> and the folks at Steel City Tool Works, now I can add a dust collection
            system to my fledgling work shop sooner than planned. This has been incredible, thanks
            to everyone ."<br /><br />
            Congratulations to Burris from everyone at <i>Popular Woodworking</i> and <a href="http://www.steelcitytoolworks.com/">Steel
            City Tool Works</a>. And thanks to all of you who entered the contest (and be on the
            lookout for a new contest in the very near future!).<br /><br /><a href="mailto:megan.fitzpatrick@fwpubs.com"><i>— Megan Fitzpatrick</i></a><br /><br />
             <br /><p></p><br /></div>
          </div>
        </div>
        <img width="0" height="0" src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/aggbug.ashx?id=ae407a23-2956-4777-8699-3e525d94411b" />
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    </content>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <title>Bookcase Challenge Running Full Force</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/Bookcase+Challenge+Running+Full+Force.aspx" />
    <id>http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/PermaLink,guid,ea41a31e-690a-47bc-8fb8-65bf36cc974d.aspx</id>
    <published>2008-04-08T08:48:09.9920000-04:00</published>
    <updated>2008-04-08T09:01:48.6327504-04:00</updated>
    <category term="Read other entries by Glen D. Huey" label="Read other entries by Glen D. Huey" scheme="dasBlog" />
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          <div>The LumberJocks/Popular Woodworking <a href="http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/msojka/blog/3958">Bookcase
         Challenge</a> is in full force. Since the full-fledged announcement in our March 26th
         newsletter, entries have been trickling in. We expect a plethora of entries as we
         approach the deadline due to woodworkers’ procrastination – my style of work – and
         because most of us want our designs to be a surprise. But whatever your excuse, I
         hope you’re working on your drawings and designs.<br /><img src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/content/binary/gwurst.gif" align="middle" border="0" hspace="8" vspace="8" /><br />
         Just to give you a taste of the competition, if you haven’t been following the event
         at lumberjocks.com, I thought I would show a few of the early entrants. These woodworkers
         stepped up and delivered their designs right out of the gate. And, these few morsels
         should help to inspire your designs, but remember your design has to be original.<br /><br />
         The first entry is from <a href="http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/gwurst/blog/4001">Gwurst</a> (not
         his real name). Gwurst says he was stymied while trying to make a traditional design
         stand out. So, he did what any woodworker worth his salt would do, he turned to curves.
         He also says he couldn’t build this design, but it appears he has an eye for design.
         Will he get a chance to build his bookcase? How does his piece stack up against the
         competition?<br /><img src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/content/binary/HucksCase.gif" align="right" border="0" hspace="8" vspace="8" /><br />
         Here’s another reason to participate in the contest. Huck and his spouse teamed up
         for <a href="http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/Huckleberry/blog/4029">their entry</a>.
         Huck explains that his wife designed the bookcase and he did the SketchUp work. The
         original concept was to build the unit from sustainable material. Good idea! Now he
         is sure that he’ll have to build the bookcase whether it’s the winning design or not.
         I plan to stay tuned to this entry to see if Huck follows through and completes the
         bookcase. That’s a very nice “honeydo” for the list.<br /><br />
         Next up is a look at <a href="http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/joey/blog/4002">Joey’s
         design</a>. Joey decided to bypass Google SketchUp and put pencil to paper. (That’s
         in keeping with the rules; you don’t have to be a computer whiz or spend time learning
         a design program – although we think once you get a taste of SketchUp you’ll find
         many uses for the program while working wood.) Joey's inspiration for design came
         from a huntboard that captured his eye, so he submitted a bookcase with loads of storage,
         many curves and smartly used sections of inlay banding. I hope he decides to build
         this design. I would enjoy seeing this project completed.<br /><img src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/content/binary/Joey.gif" align="middle" border="0" hspace="8" vspace="8" /><br />
         There’s more eye candy to see. Take a look at submitted designs (<a href="http://lumberjocks.com/blogs/tag/challenge04">click
         here</a>), then add your own. I wouldn’t wait until the last minute if I were you.
         The challenge ends on April 20th and there’s no sense taking chances. Besides, I think
         getting the comments from fellow LumberJocks and other woodworkers would be half the
         fun. What do you think? Do you see a design that has you stepping out to the shop
         to build?<br /><br /><a href="mailto:glen.huey@fwpubs.com"><i>– Glen D. Huey</i></a><br /><br /><p></p></div>
        </div>
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  </entry>
  <entry>
    <title>Glen-Drake Founder to Visit Popular Woodworking</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/GlenDrake+Founder+To+Visit+Popular+Woodworking.aspx" />
    <id>http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/PermaLink,guid,f5b483ee-1ce9-46ed-9027-2c1349217d85.aspx</id>
    <published>2008-04-02T14:28:05.9690000-04:00</published>
    <updated>2008-04-03T14:03:13.1103754-04:00</updated>
    <category term="Read other entries by Megan Fitzpatrick" label="Read other entries by Megan Fitzpatrick" scheme="dasBlog" />
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              <p>
                <img src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/content/binary/485gd.jpg" border="0" hspace="8" vspace="8" />
                <br />
                <br />
               Kevin Drake, the founder and owner of Glen-Drake Toolworks (<a href="http://glen-drake.com/">glen-drake.com</a>),
               is visiting the Cincinnati-based <i>Popular Woodworking</i> shop for a free seminar
               on May 8 from 6-9 p.m.<br /><br />
               Kevin will be demonstrating and discussing some of his tools, including the Tite-Mark
               gauge (the favorite cutting gauge of four out of four <i>Popular Woodworking</i> editors
               surveyed), the "Wild-West" Joinery Saw (a two-handed dovetail saw), Plane-Adjusting
               Hammers, Chisel Hammers and more. Plus, all attendees will get a free copy of his
               "Tools and Techniques" DVD!<br /><br />
               We have room for 60 visitors, and dinner is included. Slots are available on a first-come,
               first-served basis. Please send me e-mail me if you'd like to attend this free event.<br /><br /><a href="mailto:megan.fitzpatrick@fwpubs.com"><i>— Megan Fitzpatrick</i></a></p>
              <p>
               (megan.fitzpatrick@fwpubs.com)<br /></p>
              <p>
              </p>
              <br />
            </div>
          </div>
        </div>
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  </entry>
  <entry>
    <title>The Greatest Woodworking Show on Earth</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/The+Greatest+Woodworking+Show+On+Earth.aspx" />
    <id>http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/PermaLink,guid,2f8037a8-5ff6-49d9-a6b5-9da7d2d89d97.aspx</id>
    <published>2008-04-01T14:56:11.7822504-04:00</published>
    <updated>2008-04-01T14:56:11.7822504-04:00</updated>
    <category term="Read other entries by Christopher Schwarz" label="Read other entries by Christopher Schwarz" scheme="dasBlog" />
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          <p>
            <img src="http://www.woodworking-magazine.com/blog/content/binary/NWA.jpg" border="0" />
          </p>
          <p>
         A few years ago, I attended the <a href="http://www.nwawoodworkingshow.org/">Woodworkers
         Showcase</a> show in Saratoga Springs, N.Y., and I was amazed. It was the most perfect
         woodworking show I had ever attended. Why? Because of four things. 
         <br /><br />
         1. The free classes and seminars were extraordinary. That year I learned more about
         cold-bending from Jere Osgood and furniture design from Garrett Hack in a single day
         than I'd learned by reading (too many) books.<br /><br />
         2. An amazing display of furniture, turnings and other objects (even a canoe!) that
         were built by the members of the club who put on the show, the <a href="http://woodworker.org/">Northeastern
         Woodworker's Association</a>.<br /><br />
         3. Hands-on displays and demonstrations of jigs, fixtures, carving and sash-making
         that were ongoing the entire weekend.<br /><br />
         4. And, of course, booths and booths of vendors selling new equipment and vintage
         tools.<br /><br />
         And amazingly, admission for all this was just $7 for adults.<br /><br />
         This year, I was asked to demonstrate at the <a href="http://www.nwawoodworkingshow.org/">Woodworkers
         Showcase</a> – a huge honor – on April 5 and 6. It's this coming weekend at the Saratoga
         Springs City Center. Click <a href="http://www.nwawoodworkingshow.org/">here</a> for
         information on the event.<br /><br />
         I'll be demonstrating the scraper sharpening technique I developed after plumbing
         the historical record, and I'll be showing off the three kinds of handsaw cuts that
         I discuss in the newest issue of <i>Woodworking Magazine</i>.<br /><br />
         In addition to my demonstrations, you can also catch demos from chip-carver Wayne
         Barton, box-maker and instructor Doug Stowe (ask him about Sloyd if you see him) and
         Peter Korn, who runs the Center for Furniture Craftsmanship and is a talented woodworker.
         Plus, there will be demonstrations from members of the club on every topic imaginable,
         from marquetry to miniatures to turning to rustic furniture construction.<br /><br />
         When I'm not teaching, I'll be in a booth selling a few books, magazines and DVDs.
         If you're at the show, do stop by and say hello.<br /><br />
         If you live anywhere in the northeast, this is a show that shouldn't be missed. People
         drive from all over the eastern seaboard to attend the Woodworkers Showcase. It's
         worth it (heck I flew up from Cincinnati when I first attended).<br /><br />
         Hope to see you there.<br /><br /><a href="mailto:chris.schwarz@fwpubs.com"><i>— Christopher Schwarz</i></a><br /></p>
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    </content>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <title>Shaker Village of Pleasant Hill</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/Shaker+Village+Of+Pleasant+Hill.aspx" />
    <id>http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/PermaLink,guid,8e8b973c-aa59-479d-8e35-66b030f438c4.aspx</id>
    <published>2008-03-31T12:47:52.5630000-04:00</published>
    <updated>2008-03-31T17:38:41.5791254-04:00</updated>
    <category term="Read other entries by Robert W. Lang" label="Read other entries by Robert W. Lang" scheme="dasBlog" />
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            <p>
            The restored <a href="http://www.shakervillageky.org/">Shaker Village of Pleasant
            Hill</a>, Kentucky, has been on my list of places to visit for a long time. It is
            only a two-hour drive south of Cincinnati, and I can't count the number of times I've
            driven through the area and thought: "next time, we'll stop." This past weekend we
            made a special trip, and stayed overnight.<br /></p>
            <p>
              <img src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/content/binary/PHill_2245.jpg" align="middle" border="0" hspace="8" vspace="8" />
              <br />
            Pleasant Hill was one of the largest of the western Shaker communities, and the only
            one remaining that is open to the public in this part of the country. I had been to
            the <a href="http://www.shakermuseumandlibrary.org/">Shaker Museum</a> in Chatham,
            New York, and the <a href="http://www.hancockshakervillage.org/accounts/28/homepage/">Hancock
            Shaker Village</a> in Massachusetts. Several of the pieces from Pleasant Hill have
            been featured in <i>Popular Woodworking</i>; most recently a firewood box was our <a href="http://www.popularwoodworking.com/icandothat">"I
            Can Do That"</a> project in our <a href="http://www.popularwoodworking.com/articleabstract?aid=14894">February
            2008</a> issue. I saw three or four variations in different locations.
         </p>
            <p>
            </p>
            <p>
              <img src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/content/binary/PHill_2248.jpg" align="middle" border="0" hspace="8" vspace="8" />
              <br />
            One of the unique aspects of Pleasant Hill is that a good portion of the property
            is an inn, with a wonderful restaurant and rooms available in the original buildings.
            I've been to a lot of museums and restorations, but I've never spent the night in
            one. It added immensely to the experience, giving us a much better feel for what life
            would have been like for the community members. (It also gave us some much needed
            peace and quiet.) 
         </p>
            <p>
              <img src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/content/binary/PHill_2274.jpg" align="middle" border="0" hspace="8" vspace="8" />
              <br />
            Our room was next to one of the most famous features of the village, the twin spiral
            staircase in the Trustee's Office. As a museum visitor, I would have gone up once
            or twice and taken a good look, but as a guest I enjoyed the stairs every time I left
            our room. It truly is an amazing piece of woodworking; there are actually two stairways
            on either side of a central hallway. Each side is two flights, twisting up to the
            third floor where a skylight provides both light and the feeling that these stairs
            lead to heaven.
         </p>
            <p>
              <img src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/content/binary/PHill_2288.jpg" align="middle" border="0" hspace="8" vspace="8" />
              <br />
            Most monumental stairways are full of intricate details such as carved newel posts
            and turned balusters. The details in the stair are incredibly simple, yet the combination
            of shapes, and the subtle changes as the stairs turn and rise, make this an elegant
            statement of design and craftsmanship. 
            <br /><br />
            So if you're ever driving through Kentucky, make it a point to stop and enjoy as much
            time as you can spare. And don't leave without trying the <a href="http://18thccuisine.blogspot.com/2005/05/shaker-lemon-pie.html">lemon
            pie</a>.<br /><br /><i><a href="mailto:robert.lang@fwpubs.com">— Bob Lang</a></i><br /></p>
          </div>
        </div>
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    </content>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <title>Bookcase Design Challenge Grand Prize</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/Bookcase+Design+Challenge+Grand+Prize.aspx" />
    <id>http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/PermaLink,guid,f9e05270-0028-4af7-9e92-cff70a223fef.aspx</id>
    <published>2008-03-25T13:56:48.3970000-04:00</published>
    <updated>2008-03-25T14:51:54.6945006-04:00</updated>
    <category term="Read other entries by Glen D. Huey" label="Read other entries by Glen D. Huey" scheme="dasBlog" />
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            <div>The time has come to let the cat out of the bag. You’ve waited an entire week
            to find out about the <a href="http://lumberjocks.com/">LumberJocks</a>/<i>Popular
            Woodworking </i>magazine Challenge Grand Prize – a week I hope you’ve spent eyeing
            bookcase designs, including those linked to in the previous newsletter (<a href="http://www.popularwoodworking.com/lumberjocks">click
            here</a>) where we announced the challenge. We boasted that neither <i>Popular Woodworking</i>,
            nor any other woodworking magazine that we know of, has ever offered this prize before.
            You can be part of this first-ever woodworking event. Here it is.<br /><img src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/content/binary/Grand-Prize.gif" align="middle" border="0" hspace="8" vspace="8" /><br />
            The winning original design will be published in <i>Popular Woodworking</i> magazine.
            We’re talking a full-out article, not just photos of the best design shown in a gallery.
            You’ll become a published contributing author – a fully paid contributing author –
            with your own byline. 
            <br /><img src="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/content/binary/BLOGBK_2.gif" align="right" border="0" hspace="8" vspace="8" /><br />
            We’ll work with you to develop step-by-step photos with captions as well as an opening
            photo for your story. (If we need to arrange for a photographer to come to your shop
            and take that shot, we will.) We will be with you at every step of the way.<br /><br />
            We hope this will sweeten the pot, but we also don’t want to scare anyone from the
            contest. So, if you want to design but not necessarily build your bookcase, we’ll
            take on the project here in the <i>Popular Woodworking</i> shop and write the article
            based on your input. It’s going to be your choice. Either way you choose, your name
            will be on the article. The entire woodworking community will see, read and probably
            build your bookcase design.<br /><br />
            This may open up a completely new path to meander down, or you may be happy just to
            get your design and name in front of thousands of fellow woodworkers. 
            <br /><br />
            To get a complete set of rules, how to post your entry and to <a href="http://lumberjocks.com/account/sign_up">become
            a LumberJock</a> (remember you have to be a LumberJock member to enter the contest) <a href="http://lumberjocks.com/jocks/msojka/blog/3958">click
            here</a>.<br /><br /><a href="mailto:glen.huey@fwpubs.com">– <i>Glen D. Huey</i><br /></a><br /><p></p></div>
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    </content>
  </entry>
  <entry>
    <title>Woodwork Joints by Charles Hayward</title>
    <link rel="alternate" type="text/html" href="http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/Woodwork+Joints+By+Charles+Hayward.aspx" />
    <id>http://blogs.popularwoodworking.com/editorsblog/PermaLink,guid,af836429-886f-48bf-b2c3-a2d44d68aff6.aspx</id>
    <published>2008-03-24T13:55:09.0220000-04:00</published>
    <updated>2008-03-25T15:00:15.5070006-04:00</updated>
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            <b>A Weekend With an Old Friend</b>
            <br />
            <br />
            <img src="content/binary/hywrd_jnts.jpg" align="right" border="0" hspace="8" vspace="8" />Sometimes
         a search for one thing leads to the discovery of something more interesting and a
         change of plans. Friday night I was looking for a book and as I was going through
         my shelves I came across a small volume I hadn’t seen in a while. <a href="http://www.amazon.com/Woodwork-Joints-Dovetails-Mechanical-Manufactured/dp/0806988061/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;s=books&amp;qid=1206380573&amp;sr=8-1"><i>Woodwork
         Joints</i></a>, by Charles H. Hayward had been tucked out of sight between two larger
         books and I pulled it out and flipped through a few pages. It was like bumping into
         an old friend and forgetting the task at hand to spend some time catching up. I spent
         several hours over the weekend going through the book, and remembered why it is one
         of my favorites.<br /><br />
         The first thing I like about it is that there is absolutely no fluff; no introductory
         chapters on buying tools or setting up shop. Hayward dives right into common and not-so-common
         joints – how to cut and fit them with hand tools, what they ought to be like when
         you’re done, and what can go wrong. Except for the use of Britishisms such as "cramp"
         instead of "clamp," the writing style is clear and straightforward, and there is more
         useful information per page in this book than in any other woodworking book ever written.<br /><br />
         In addition to the text, the book is amply illustrated with both line drawings and
         black &amp; white photos. The photos look dated because this book is rather old (and
         unfortunately out of print) but they clearly show how to hold the work and how to
         hold the tools. The tools and bench accessories shown in the photos are well worn
         – evidence that the advice given is based on experience. And the drawings are worth
         several thousand words apiece.<br /><br />
         But my favorite thing about this book is the way the author uses the language. It
         reminds me a lot of getting instruction from my Scottish-born grandfather. In an understated
         way, Hayward lets you know when you should be able to figure something out or when
         you are behaving like a rookie. He gives you the choice of the techniques of the beginner,
         the competent but in a hurry carpenter, and the ideal of the “skilled worker” or “man
         of the trade.” He talks about “complications” that can arise when you aren’t careful
         and the “detriment to the saw” if you cut into a hidden screw. This all looks like
         step-by-step technical instruction, but it really is training to think like a cabinetmaker.<br /><img src="content/binary/hywrd_jnts2.jpg" align="left" border="0" hspace="8" vspace="8" /><br />
         So here’s a technical book that improved the way I think, not just about woodworking
         but problem solving and processes in general. And Hayward goes even one step 
         further in several places. When discussing problems with tenons, he gives an example
         noting that a particular problem is found: “in the work of a man who lacks confidence.
         He doubts his ability to cut his shoulders square, and rather than risk a joint which
         will not pull together owing to shoulders which are fuller at the tenon than at the
         surface, he deliberately undercuts them.”  <br /><br />
         Now we’re talking about character, and how a simple act like cutting a tenon can both
         reveal and develop traits such as reasoned risk-taking and good judgment. For me,
         there is a lot more to woodworking than making stuff, and what I learn about myself
         from the process is in the end more important than what I learn about the process.
         I’ve made tenons that look like the ones in the drawing, and I’ve learned to examine
         what went wrong in order to get it right the next time. Going back to this book one
         more time made me realize how much I learned from this book above and beyond fitting
         this piece of wood to that one. While this book is out of print, used copies can be
         found. However, mine is not for sale.<br /><br />
         --<a href="mailto:robert.lang@fwpubs.com">Bob Lang</a><br /><br /></div>
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