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# Monday, December 11, 2006
Domino: The Magic Bullet


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When it comes to joinery, I use the mortise-and-tenon joint a great deal. To create this joint I have used every system imaginable and with great success, from a tenon saw and mortise chisel, to table saw and mortising machine methods, drill press solutions and a wide of router-based systems, including the Leigh FMT system.

All of the systems have their charms and merits, but they also all have one weakness, they require at least two tools or jigs to make the joint. Some of the systems require great skill (cutting by hand), other require specialized heavy machinery (hollow-chisel mortisers) and force you to move heavy workpieces across smallish tables.
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Rob Johnstone (right), editor of Woodworker’s Journal, contemplates a Domino tenon while Kevin Ley field-strips the tool.

The Festool Domino is a mortise-and-tenon machine (look for it on April 1, 2007) that is quite extraordinary because it allows you to use one tool to do all the cutting and – this is important – it allows you to take the tool to the work instead of having to muscle large workpieces across small cutters.

Today at the Festool headquarters, we got to spend an entire afternoon (interrupted by one civilized coffee break) using the Domino to build a small stool with as much or as little guidance as we liked. The following are my first impressions of the tool, which will be colored in the coming months by using the tool day-to-day in our shop.

Like everything that is branded with the Festool name, the Domino is simultaneously familiar and foreign. The familiar: It’s based on a biscuit joiner format. If you’ve ever used one of these tools, the controls and handling will seem quite familiar to you. What is foreign about it is the sometimes maniacal devotion to quality that drips from every knob and bright green switch. I’ve driven one Porsche in my like (a late 1960’s dual-carb model) and this tool has the same sort of feel in the hand. It’s so well made that you feel like you are in control, but in reality it’s the tool that is really doing the driving.

Let’s start with the cutter. To make a mortise, the Domino uses a single cutter that is plunged into your work. The cutter rotates and moves left to right simultaneously and at high speeds. You make a mortise that is 5mm x 15mm x 15mm with an almost effortless plunge (and this is into beech end grain). Armed with a vacuum, there is none of the typical dust clouds you create with a biscuit joiner. The tool will make other-sized mortises as well with almost equal ease.
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The metal dowel against the corner of the workpiece. This is the indexing system that allows you to work without marking or measuring with many cuts.

Then you make the mortise in the mating piece. You put a beech loose tenon into the joints (along with some glue, natch) and apply clamping pressure.

The real genius of the system, in my opinion, is the way the tool is guided on the work. For most applications, the tool is designed to be used without any marking or measuring at all. When this was first explained to me I was a bit dense about it, but once you see it, it’s quite clever. The Domino has two metal dowels that stick out a bit (less than ¼”) from either side of the cutter. These metal dowels will retract if you press them straight on and then return to the proud position when you let go.

You use these two metal dowels to control the Domino on the workpiece. Here’s a quick example: You want to make a face frame. Start with the stile, where your mortise needs to be in the long-grain edge. Instead of marking out your cut with a line (which you can do if you please), you place the corner of the stile so it tucks in against one metal dowel. Then you pivot the machine’s face flat against the work and the other metal dowel retracts into the machine. Make your cut.

Now repeat the process on the end of the rail. Tuck the corner of the rail against the dowel and pivot the Domino against the work. Plunge. The two mortises will now line up perfectly. And yes, I mean perfectly. Even on my first run out of the gate it was perfect.

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This accessory for the fence allows you to mortise the end grain of small parts.

And then there are the accessories. There’s an attachment for the fence of the tool that allows you to mortise the end grain of pieces that are only ¾” wide, and in a safe and simple manner. And there’s another attachment that allows you to stabilize your machine when you work on narrow edges. It’s only a simple piece of plastic, but it is entirely too clever to be called just a simple piece of plastic.
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The extra fence (right) that attaches to the base of the tool gives you remarkable stability when working on edges.

After a few hours of working with the Domino, it began to feel like an extension of my hands and would do my bidding. Or perhaps it was driving – hard to tell.

Is there a negative to the machine? Well, like any tool – any tool – I think that your accuracy will improve with use. Some of the other editors (no names!) had a couple stumbles with the Domino as they became acquainted. And I myself got into a bit of a rush at the end, and I put a mortise where it wasn’t supposed to go – luckily the wrong mortise ended up concealed. And that’s the issue. The tool is so simple to use that you might be tempted to take a shortcut or two, and you can get a bit sloppy. This is the fault of any well-designed tool. And a little practice will fix your evil ways.

Festool officials said they are working out the pricing right now on the base machine model plus some accessories. When the tool is introduced in the United States there will be some special incentive packages that might be worth looking into.

Kevin Ley, a British craftsman, writer and former military man, chatted with me a bit about the tool after the event and said that he had just finished building a cabinet for LPs and CDs for a client out of elm and using the Domino system for all the carcase joinery.
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A systainer (right) filled with Dominos.

With all the joints cut (about 100 in all) Kevin said the whole project came apart and together so perfectly and cleanly that it was like disassembling and assembling a handgun.

I couldn’t agree more. The machine makes perfect chambers for the tenons – the magic bullets of the system.

Tomorrow: Festool’s new table saws.

– Christopher Schwarz




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Monday, December 11, 2006 6:28:07 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [10] 
# Sunday, December 10, 2006
The Domino Effect


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This week I’m in Germany with a group of woodworking editors to visit the Festool headquarters in Stuttgart and try out the company’s new DF 500 Q Domino system. This moment is one of those few times during my 10 years with Popular Woodworking magazine that I’ve felt like I am going to see an absolutely and truly new kind of tool.

I’ve watched lots of manufacturers roll out tools with significant improvements, but very few of those new tools are designed to change the fundamental nature of the way you work. The Festool Domino appears to be just that.
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In essence, the Domino looks like a biscuit joiner, but it really is a hand-held tool that is designed to make true loose-tenon joints. The machine makes a mortise when its patented cutting head oscillates and turns plunges into the work and routs out a recess to one of five preset depths and three widths. Then you use the tool’s indexing system (which I am eager to see) to make its mating mortise.

Finally, you add glue and one of the Domino beech tenons to complete the joint. The tool has been available in Europe for some time and will be rolled out in the United States in 2007. At this moment (5:24 a.m. local time) I have just as many questions about the system as you do. And I’m greatly looking forward to getting those answered and getting my hands on the Domino system. Plus, Festool officials promise us we’re going to get to see some other new tools the company is working on.

Over the weekend, all of the editors have been acclimating to the new time zone in a city outside Stuttgart called Nurtingen. On Sunday, all of us went to the nearby town of Esslingen (top photo) to visit the city’s Christmas market, view some of the stunning half-timbered houses and begin to soak up some of the German culture (including accordion music).

I know a fair number of Germans back in the United States, but it’s an entirely different thing to meet Germans in their native country. The country is remarkably different than ours, and so are their woodworking tools.

For example, Festool officials explained the years-long process that woodworkers have to go through to open their own cabinet shop, including years of apprenticeship and study. The typical German woodworker will take far better care of their tools than the typical American or Australian woodworkers. And the German woodworkers are much less price-sensitive than the American consumer.

All of which adds to my interest in the Domino system. Will it be something that a North American consumer will accept – like we did with the biscuit joiner a generation ago? Or will it be a tool that has a small but highly enthusiastic customer-base, such as some of the European multi-machines?

Check back here on the blog in the next few days to get some clues.

— Christopher Schwarz



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Sunday, December 10, 2006 11:57:33 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [1] 
# Friday, December 08, 2006
Last Minute Holiday Gifts

HolidayGifts.jpgAround the house at this time of year, I get asked what I would like for my holiday gifts. As woodworkers I think we all hear this, “What can I buy for you?” question, at some time during the year. In trying to help the spouses, significant others and children of woodworkers, I thought that this would be the time to pass along a few ideas from the pages of Popular Woodworking magazine.

Let's start with the Popular Woodworking magazine CD. Popular Woodworking has packed all seven 2006 issues into a single disc. The files are fully searchable and you’ll no longer have to worry about spilling varnish on your printed copy of the magazine. Simply print out the construction drawings or anything else that you need and head out to the shop. Self-fulfilling? Maybe, but this is something you will find extremely useful – I do.

Now we’ll take a look at the tools. I went back over the tools from past issues to compile a list of nice, moderate to inexpensive selections that we reviewed in our Tool Test pages. Here you go.

The Bosch I-driver just makes it under the limit I arbitrarily set for this list at $147. It has the power to stand up it’s12-volt cordless competitors and has a five-position articulating head. The kit comes with the driver, 2 batteries and a charger all in a soft-sided case.

A digital/fractional caliper is always handy to have in the woodshop. I have found that I use this tool quite a bit in my new position, maybe more than I should. The Craftsman Gallery offering, at $38, has everything that you will need. We recommend the 6” version for your bench and the 4” for your shirt pocket!

For the hand tool folks here is a saw that will floor you if it hasn’t already. The Zona razor saws come in two sizes one is 61/2” long while the shorter version is 41/2” in length. Both of the saws cut slowly, which is to be expected, but the surface finish left behind appears as if it is planed. Here is the great news – their price is $8.95 and $4.95 respectively.

How about another small tool entry? The Tite-Mark Mini marking gauge from Glen-Drake Toolworks is a miniature version of the Tite-Mark gauge that we all know. It is smaller in size and costs coming in at $60. It’s excellent for dovetailing drawers and small boxes and will easily fit into small hands.

Here is a few other ideas that come to mind from Popular Woodworking and the from the pages of Woodworking magazine, our sister publication:

Starrett 6” Combination Square (Highlandwoodworking.com) $67
Shinwa 6” Steel Rule #60N47.01 (Leevalley.com) $7
Starrett 6” Steel Rule #061511 (Highlandwoodworking.com) $20
Pro-Value 24” Steel Rule #2042A75 (Mcmaster.com) $30

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One final idea is to stop by the Popular Woodworking store at cafepress.com/popwood and select from a number of popular products with our Popular Woodworking logo.

Choose from t-shirts, sweatshirts, hats and mugs. And don’t forget to visit Woodworking Magazine's store as well (we have a new T-shirt there you might want to check out). Link right from the Popwood store page. Receiving or giving these great gifts is sure to make your holiday merry.

– Glen D. Huey



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Friday, December 08, 2006 4:10:10 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [0] 
# Friday, December 01, 2006
Hollow Mortise Chisel Tune-up

I've been away from the blog for a while. It's been a busy few weeks with Thanksgiving, filling book orders and the main job, publishing a woodworking magazine. Since putting the February issue to bed, I put on my Woodworking Magazine hat and set to work investigating chisels for hollow-chisel mortising machines. I've always been geeky about sharpening things, not in the sense of polishing chisel backs to 32,000 grit, but having a good edge before going to work. Before using a router bit, I dress the edge with a diamond file, and I usually touch up the chisel before machine cutting mortises. Sharp is good, but with tooling used in a machine like a mortiser, you hit a point where your efforts meet with diminishing returns. Here is a procedure that will take less than 15 minutes and will give you cleaner, cooler cuts.

hc_chips_stock.jpgThis is  a typical dull chisel. I found it in the cabinet in the base of our old mortiser, and don't know what brand it is, or how old it is. It wasn't completely trashed, but the end was discolored, and the grinding marks from the factory were still visible on the outer faces.

If you look at the pile of chips, you can see that they are fairly large, and some of them are scorched. There's is a lot of friction between the chips and the metal as they work their way up the flutes of the auger bit. The chips rubbing against each other can get hot enough to burn, and once that happens, the smoke and resins in the wood start to get sticky. You can also see the chips in the flutes of the bit. If you can keep things cool, they won't be there.

hc_dull_close.jpgHere is a close look at the dull chisel, just about to undergo the first stage of the tune-up. The discoloration is mainly smoke damage, the chisel hasn't been overheated to the point where the metal loses its temper.

The sharpening cone came from Rockler as part of a 3-piece set that includes a coarse and fine diamond coated hone, and a handle to put them in for hand honing. The set costs a little over $20, and I think it's a good buy. The handle accepts hex-shanked screwdriver bits, and is comfortable to use for that purpose as well.

This is chucked in our drill press, set at it's lowest speed, with the chisel held in a drill-press vise. It doesn't take long to grind a good edge on the inside of the chisel. It takes me more time to get it locked in the chuck than to sharpen one chisel. All you need to do is bring it down until you raise a burr on the outside of the chisel.


hc_hone1.jpgThe next step is to get rid of all the grinding marks on the outside of the chisel. I stick a piece of 150 grit sandpaper to thecast iron bed of one of the machines in the shop, and rub the faces of the chisel on it. I start with the clearance slot facing up and give each face the same number of strokes.

I do twenty-seven on each face because I like the number, but anywhere from 20-30 will do. The idea is to take an equal amount off of each side. Don't worry about making the chisel smaller than its nominal size. You may have to go around 2 or 3 times, but this is a once in a tool's lifetime operation.

hc_hone2.jpgAfter the sandpaper, switch to the finer cone at the drill press, and hit the inside again. Like the first round with the cone, you only need to grind for a couple seconds to raise a burr on the outside. Then work your way around the outside on a medium grit diamond (or any other) sharpening stone.

I tried seeing what going to a finer grit would do, but measurable improvements in the working of the chisel stopped about #1000 grit. You can keep going to finer grits if you want, but you'll only have a shinier chisel, not a better working one. My grandfather used to call that "polishing the polishing"

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The last step is to file a notch on each of the inside corners with a triangular file. I wish I could take credit for thinking of this, but it is a feature found on some chisels. I first saw it on the premium chisel set from Lee Valley. Depending on the hardness of the chisel, this filing may take a while, but I think the results are worth it.

This provides some more clearance between the outside of the auger bit and the inside of the chisel. I also think it makes it easier to plunge the corners of the chisel into the wood to start the cut. The benefits of doing this aren't as great as the benefits of smoothing the outside of the chisel, but it doesn't hurt, and in some species of wood may really help.

Once you've taken a chisel through this procedure,  you shouldn't have to go through it again. You will need to dress the edges occassionally. This won't take more than a minute or two. Twirl the fine cone inside the end of the chisel by hand to raise a burr, then take a few strokes (I like 9 in this case) on each face with a sharpening stone.

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Here's a picture of the sharpened chisel, along with the chips it made. The chips are a lot smaller, and the chisel is a little easier to plunge into the work. There isn't a tremendous difference in the amount of force you need to make the cut, but the bit and chisel will run considerably cooler.

Heat is the real enemy, and in addition to dressing the outside of the bit, the other important consideration is leaving a big enough gap between the bit and chisel. Most bit manufacturers and published advice suggest a gap that is way too small-a credit card or dime sized gap will likely smoke and burn. Set the gap a bit bigger, and you'll enjoy much better results.

Bob Lang








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Friday, December 01, 2006 4:09:43 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [2] 
Behind the Scenes: Joint Trickery!

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There are things that are very nice about working at a woodworking magazine. New tools arrive out of nowhere. New ideas are promoted for upcoming articles, which afford one the opportunity to feel like he or she, is on the inside directing a growing trend or, in some cases, seeing into the future (this is because we are working on the April 2007 issue) and all the while getting paid. And the best part, we get to laugh at things we see and about things that we do in house that you don’t get to see.

We are about to complete the spring issue of Woodworking Magazine, the sister publication of Popular Woodworking. Each publication of this magazine is tied around a common technique. In the issue we are about to complete, the exploration of the mortise and tenon joint is the featured topic.

Along with articles on the joint itself and on building a trivet to practice your techniques (and a few other articles), I have written an article on the proper pegging of the joint where we discuss the history of the joint, why it was pegged and if we should continue this practice today.

Each article has what is called and “Opener” – the picture that is at the beginning or opening of the piece, hence its nickname. For the pegging article I had to supply our photographer, Al Parrish, with the pieces to use in the shot. We needed three examples of the mortise and tenon joint.

No problem – except time, that is. I have previously written about my “just in time” inventory system that has carried into the articles for the magazine. I had to get the article complete and Al had to have the picture props. What’s a fellow to do?

Well here is the answer. I concocted three mock joints (two of which are in the photo). From the front, which is exactly what the readers get to see, the pieces appear to be the nicest fitting M&T joints ever made. But, flip them over and the back shows the trickery that I used to bring the piece together. The assembly, when viewed from the rear, is an example of a great pocket screw joint.

Some might say this is the art of deception. I however feel that this is a fantastic way to show something that educates people without the entire process taking a huge amount of time to get ready, mine that is.

If I could have used this in my woodworking career or if you can find a way to incorporate this technique into your projects, just imagine how quickly we could build those antique reproductions – a museum quality High Chest of Drawers in a few days versus a few months. Museum Quality?? That’s the rub.

Sorry to have burst your bubble.

Glen D. Huey





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Friday, December 01, 2006 8:10:24 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [4] 
# Wednesday, November 29, 2006
A Preview of a Creole Table Project



Coming in the February 2007 issue (at the printer now) is a close copy of an 18th-century Creole-style table I built earlier this year. It looks like an ambitious and curvy project – but that assessment would be only half-correct. While curvy, this French number is surprisingly easy.

To whet your appetite for this spicy Creole dish, we're posting a SolidWorks drawing of the table for you to download (for free) and examine.

EDrawings is a free little program you can download (for both Mac and Windows machines), which allows you to open up the drawing file and examine the projects in extraordinary detail. And even if you have never used a CAD program, I think you'll find this program a cinch to use.
Creole-Table.jpg
When you open up the files you'll see the assembled project floating in space – this is called a "live model." And boy is it live! Using the tools at the top of the window, you can rotate this project in every direction to see all sides of it in its assembled form. You can pull individual parts off and rotate those around to look at all the joinery by zooming in and out. See how the web frame works. Make the legs transparent and zoom in on the tenons to see how they are offset from the aprons. Check out the tight dovetails (the only sure-fire way to get tight dovetails: draw them that way!)

These drawings are the next best thing to inviting you into our shop for you to examine the completed project. Heck, I think this is actually better. The projects are much easier to turn upside down and disassemble when they're digital.

Once you see how easily this piece is put together, you might want to do some more investigation of Creole furniture. Until recently, Creole-style furniture was a bit obscure, known mostly to a handful of furniture collectors who specialized in pieces made in the Mississippi valley. But that’s changing.

The original version of this 18th-century walnut table sold for $54,625 at a 2003 auction. And other Creole pieces, such as armoires, are commanding prices up to $140,000. So what is the Creole style? Essentially, Creole encompasses  furniture made in the Mississippi valley by furniture makers who were usually French-Canadian. The pieces have lots of French touches, such as cabriole legs, but also have the unmistakable restraint of early American furniture that collectors seek.
Creole-Table-inset.jpg
This table, for example, looks quite a bit like drawings of 18th-century French furniture from Denis Diderot’s “L’Encyclopedie ou Dictionnaire Raisonné” (1751-1780) – but without the banding, inlay, carving and marquetry.

I first saw this table in the magazine Early American Life and was completely enamored. Our project illustrator, John Hutchinson, took a photograph and produced the construction drawings. And 37 hours of shop-time later, this is the result.

Download the drawing here:

Creole Table Assembly1.zip (1.1 MB)

— Christopher Schwarz




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Wednesday, November 29, 2006 10:41:46 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [4] 
# Tuesday, November 28, 2006
Tool Test: Infinity Router Bit Set
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How do you accurately test a seven-piece professional set of Infinity router bits?

Let’s face it, you could spend months in the shop trying to accomplish such a feat by using them day in and day out while building several projects and studying their performance along the way.

I didn’t have that kind of time, so I applied some standard tests to check the precision of the manufacturing.

I used micrometers to check the various steps in the rabbet combination bit, to check the diameter of the bearing in relation to the cut on the flush trim bit and to the cut of the 3⁄4" pattern bit.

I moulded a piece of hardwood with the 1⁄2"-radius roundover bit in a hand-held router, and with the 1⁄2" cove bit in the router table in order to check for a matching fit and determine if they could be used for a drop-leaf profile. I found that they all worked superbly under shop conditions.

But the true test of a packaged set is: Are these bits the ones most often used in a professional woodworking shop or that most woodworkers would use in their shops? Or, did they select a few usable bits and finish out the set with less-than-desirable contents? No, this is a useful set.

Each of these bit profiles has been a workhorse in my  shop during the past 12 years. I’ve used them all and I find myself using at least one during each of my woodworking projects.

This is a nicely assembled selection of router bits for use in your shop and these bits also have 1⁄2" shanks for added strength and durability. The set is $149.90. For more information, call 877-872-2487 or visit infinitytools.com.

— Glen D. Huey




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Tuesday, November 28, 2006 3:06:46 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [8] 
Router Bit Depth Gauge


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Editor's note: Here is one of the coolest Tricks of the Trade from our December 2006 issue from reader Rick Wilson of Houston, Texas.

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Setting the projection of a router bit using a ruler can be problematic, and not terrifically accurate, especially if your eyes aren’t what they used to be. To solve the problem, I made this simple but very accurate router bit depth gauge from a scrap of wood and an inexpensive dial indicator ($15.50 from Lee Valley, 800-871-8158). It measures bit projection in thousandths of an inch up to 7⁄8", which is enough for most of my grooving and slotting tasks.

The dial indicator shaft fits snugly into a hole drilled in the top of the inverted U-shaped gauge block. A slot extending out from the hole is pinched together with a machine screw to lock the indicator in place. After  unscrewing the stock tip, a small hardwood block is friction fit onto the end of the plunge rod to serve as a plunger pad.

To use the gauge, first zero it out with the plunge-rod block pressed against the router base or router tabletop. Then center the block over the bit, and raise the bit until the desired projection is reached.



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Tuesday, November 28, 2006 2:55:23 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [6] 
# Wednesday, November 22, 2006
Behind the Scenes: Ahead of the Game?

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Before coming to Popular Woodworking, I had many years of building furniture for customers and clients under my belt, and I found that I had developed a few habits that were hard to break – a few ruts that I fell into most willingly. Sure I liked to use a table saw to make all of my cove mouldings, I cut my tenons with my shop-made tenon jig and more often than not I would use aniline dyes to finish my work.

But I had one habit that was not one that the average person would want to develop. I guess that would make it a bad habit. We all know how hard it can be to break one of those.

This habit was my extraordinary ability to create furniture that was complete at the last possible minute; what I called my “Just in Time” inventory system. I used this system throughout the years of building for magazine articles with Popular Woodworking, as well as for my paying clientele.

When I joined the staff here at the magazine, I said goodbye to that nasty habit. Good riddance! See you later! Or so I thought.

We are headlong into the Spring 2007 issue of Woodworking Magazine. This is our newsstand only, no advertising, black-and-white woodworking magazine for which I am building an Arts & Crafts mirror for the cover.

The building process is a study of the mortise-and-tenon joint and the addition of the inlay pushed the piece to something that was more than fun – it was my first trip into Arts & Crafts furniture and working with white oak in some time.

I completed the building of the piece and was waiting for the finishing process to be developed by Bob Lang, senior editor and our specialist in all things Greene & Greene to Stickley and beyond (be sure to check out his finishing concoction in the same issue.) Once the finish was applied I installed the inlay and boom, project completed! Except for the mirror and back, that is. Let her sit, other things need my attention!

On Tuesday of the next week I was asked when I would have the mirror ready for pictures. I could have it on Thursday was my reply. Not good enough, Wednesday would be much better. The next morning I scuffled off to the mirror supplier, picked up the reflective slab and returned to the shop. The fit was right-on so I added a backboard of plywood and as I had just finished wiping the front of the piece, Al Parrish, our photographer extraordinaire, steps into the shop to gather the mirror for pictures.

Wow, even though the magazine is working four to six months ahead, deadlines are deadlines and my “Just in Time” inventory system is alive and well. Oh well as they say, some things change and ….

Glen D. Huey



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Wednesday, November 22, 2006 12:30:50 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [1] 
A New Job Within a New Job

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Everyone knows about Chris Schwarz’s affinity with hand tools and readers know that David Thiel was the power tool counterpart here at Popular Woodworking. With David’s move to the books division (thank you David – because that made way for me to join the staff), we had an area that needed to be filled. This past week it was decided that we fill that vacancy with a new contact for power tool information and questions – that contact would be me!

Where else could a guy who enjoys building furniture, writing and talking about woodworking get a chance to converse with the company reps about their tools and bring in a selection of products to test in our shop so that we can pass along that information to you? I am the lucky dog! And, I get paid to do this!

But, that is not the only place where this new responsibility will become such fun and interesting work. If you, the readers of the magazine, have any questions, comments or concerns about tools, you now know where to direct those messages. If you write, I will get back to you with an answer or comment as quick as I can.

I will tell you that there will be a learning curve for me. I have spent a lot of time in my own woodworking world. I would read the magazines, but I also had my shop set for many years, especially for large tools. Not many reasons popped up that would compel me to delve into buying new tools. I now not only have the reason, I have the directive to do just that.

I had a comment one night in our Woodcentral chat that the reviews are only as good as the guy that writes them. That got me wondering how Pop Wood conducted these test. Here at the magazine all the editors partake in the testing of the tools and that will continue in the future.

But we are even going one better. We are have asked Contributing Editor Troy Sexton to take some of the tools into his shop to test them in the real world. What better evaluation can be done on tools? It is always better to get a number of informed opinions versus one opinion. However, I will be charged with the writing and the follow-up on the reviews.


Glen D. Huey


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Wednesday, November 22, 2006 11:52:51 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [0] 
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