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 Monday, July 23, 2007
Available Now: All the Issues from 2000 on CD

The year 2000 was a turning point for Popular Woodworking magazine. In 1999 the new owners of our magazine gave us a green light to redesign the entire publication and start down the path we are on today.
That was when we started adding a significant number of stories about hand tools into our pages, blending them carefully with our power-tool coverage. We started adding top-shelf contributing writers, such as Nick Engler, Roy Underhill and Scott Phillips. And we brought on staff a new photographer and art director.
So if you like Popular Woodworking now but you didn't subscribe in 2000, we think you'll like this new CD. On it, we've put all eight issues we published in 2000 (that was when we published an annual Tool Buying Guide) in pdf format. All of the advertisements have been removed. It's just 425 pages of pure woodworking content – and completely text-searchable – for $19.96.
As a bonus, we've included on the CD a complete index of all the stories in both a spreadsheet and word processing format. Plus, we've included a bonus issue on this CD, the September 1999 issue of Popular Woodworking – that's the first issue that features our new design (and 66 more pages of content).
The 2000 issues feature a lot of great stories, here are just a few we think you'll be interested in. Or you can download a complete list of stories here: 2000IndexbyCategory.doc (234 KB)
Restoring a Handplane Flea markets are infested with dirt-cheap old handplanes. Rick Peters shows you how to transform a $5 piece of junk into a workhorse for your woodshop.
Borrowing a Design If you’ve ever sat at your kitchen table with a blank sheet of paper and an equally blank mind, let Roger Holmes show you how some pros design original pieces of furniture.
Pennsylvania Stepback This Colonial cupboard has it all: traditional joinery, proportions and the techniques to put your woodworking skills to the test. By Glen Huey
Should You Buy Professional Tools? What’s the difference between $50 router and a $150 router? We take you inside to show how the things you can’t see sometimes affect the price. By Randy Caillier
Handmade Hardware Step inside a darkened blacksmith’s shop, where custom cabinet hardware is made almost exactly as it was 200 years ago.
Traditional Secretary Troy Sexton’s gorgeous dropfront secretary is the culmination of a lifetime of professional woodworking experience and a brief stroke of luck at an auction.
What You Must Know About Shelving Building great bookcases requires more planning than real skill. Learn the essential rules to constructing shelving that is stout, attractive and adaptable.
The Way Wood Works To properly design and build a project, you need to know wood’s strengths, weaknesses and how much it’s going to move. Nick Engler shows you how to avert disaster by following three simple rules.
Shop of the Crafters Morris Chair Without a doubt the oversized seat, reclining back and wide arms will make this chair the most comfortable place to relax in your home.
Compound Miters for Dummies Cutting accurate miters and compound miters is one of the most vexing problems woodworkers face. Learn to set up your table saw to cut virtually any slope. By Nick Engler
Lathe From a Loft The always-inventive Roy Underhill stumbled onto some discarded timbers and got the bright idea to turn them into a foot-powered lathe and scrollsaw. You can, too. By Roy Underhill
The CD is in stock now and ready for immediate shipping. The CD works with both PCs and Macintosh computers running Adobe Reader 6.0 or later (Reader is a free program). The price is $19.96 with free shipping in the United States. Order the Popular Woodworking 2000 CD from our store now.
— Christopher Schwarz
Read other entries by Christopher Schwarz
Monday, July 23, 2007 2:30:19 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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New Issue of Woodworking Magazine in Stock and Available
Issue 8 of Woodworking Magazine (our sister publication) is now available in both digital
and printed
formats directly from us. We've shipped out the issues to our newsstand
distributors (see below to download a list of dealers that will sell
it).
The staff is particularly proud of this issue. It's our biggest issue ever and we
think it breaks some new ground on some important topics: workbench
design, constructing tool racks and choosing a flush-cutting saw. You have several choices as
to how you can purchase this issue. It’s not complicated,
but it is new, and so here is a complete explanation.
1. Buy the printed edition: You can order a printed copy
of Issue 8 directly from us through our Internet store for $8 or by calling toll-free 800-258-0929 (ask for item #PW0907). You also will
be able to purchase the issue from a select number of specialty stores,
including all of the Lee Valley retail stores in Canada and woodworking
stores in the United States. You can download a complete list of stores arranged by state to find a location near you. The issue should be available on newsstands in early August.
Download a list of Dealers:
WM_Dealers.doc (83.5 KB)
2. Buy a digital download edition: You can download
Issue 8 from our Internet
store right now for $6. The digital
edition
is a pdf file that has been enhanced with additional links and
resources. We’ve added buttons in the issue that will call up
additional related stories, video and slideshows on our web site. The
pdf can be read by any computer with the free Acrobat Reader program
from Adobe (most computers come loaded with this program already).
Here’s how the digital download works. It’s quite easy. After you pay
for the issue you will be sent an e-mail. Inside that e-mail is a link
that you’ll click that will allow you to log in to our web site with a
username and password. When you log in, you’ll be taken to a page that
will let you download the file. It’s a large file (about 8mb), but if
you have trouble downloading it, you can come back to that page as many
times as you like if you encounter some sort of problem. Our connection
is fast and stable, and we haven’t had anyone encounter any serious difficulty
yet.
3. Buy both digital and printed editions: You can order both
the digital and printed
editions
of Issue 8 from our Internet store for $10. If you choose this option,
you will be able to download the digital issue immediately, as
described above. Plus you will be shipped the printed copy of the
magazine from our warehouse in Wisconsin. —
Christopher Schwarz
Read other entries by Christopher Schwarz
Monday, July 23, 2007 12:04:36 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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 Friday, July 20, 2007
Exclusive Interviews with Norm Abram and Scott Phillips
 Now Live. Click on either name to see our videos.What tools would Norm Abram and Scott Phillips grab on the way out the door if their shops caught fire? Find out next week when Popular Woodworking presents exclusive video interviews with Norm Abram and Scott Phillips. On Friday morning at the AWFS show in Las Vegas, Publisher Steve Shanesy sat down with these two woodworking icons for a round of questions no one else has ever asked and answers that might surprise you. Senior Editor Glen Huey was on the scene with our video camera and he’ll be editing the footage on the airplane ride home. By Monday or Tuesday, these will be available here on our web site. We visited Norm’s New Yankee Workshop two summers ago, and Shanesy spent three days with Norm building Adirondack chairs, while former Managing Editor Kara Gebhart-Uhl peeked around in the corners and found out the real story about how Norm works to create the projects featured on his show. Scott is an old friend and neighbor and host of “The American Woodshop” which will start its 13th season on Aug. 11. Both Norm and Scott were at the Delta/Porter Cable booth at the show, and graciously agreed to spend some time with us. Check back and find out what tools Norm and Scott would get first if they had to start over. Norm has influenced thousands of woodworkers, who does he look up to? What did Scott do before woodworking, and what was the most impressive thing he saw at the show? Read more exclusive coverage and see more video coverage of the show. — Robert W. Lang Read other entries by Robert W. Lang
Friday, July 20, 2007 2:29:15 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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Riving Knives-Report from AWFS 2007

Bosch's new riving knife system on its 4100 series of table saws.
Riving Knives – Not Just for The Europeans Anymore
Of
all the new things appearing at this year’s AWSF show, the most
exciting is the sudden appearance of true riving knives and sensible
guard systems on a number of new table saws. The rules are changing,
both literally and figuratively. Kelley Mehler, who wrote an article on
European-style table saws for our August 2007 issue, lobbied and worked
with Underwriter’s Laboratories in the development of new rules for
table saw guards manufactured and sold in the United States. These
regulations will require that guards on table saws be easily removable
and replaceable, and most importantly to us, that saws be equipped with
riving knives.
When we reviewed the SawStop cabinet saw in 2005,
we noted that in our opinion, the riving knife was a more important
safety feature than the braking system. When we took our first look at
the Powermatic 2000, we were happy to see a riving knife included. This
year, several more manufacturers are getting on board, in advance of
the new UL regulations.
The SawStop, like airbags in your car,
will provide some protection after an accident has happened. And, like
airbags, braking systems that stop the saw on contact with the blade
add significantly to the cost. What if there were a simple device that
could be easily attached to your car that would prevent most accidents
from happening in the first place? Would you want one? That doesn’t
exist yet for your car, but there is a simple device that attaches to a
table saw that will prevent many accidents.
About Riving Knives So
just what is a riving knife, and what does it do? There are two ways to
cut yourself on a table saw. The first is to not pay attention to where
your hands are and stick them into the spinning blade. The second is
when part of the board comes in contact with the back part of the blade
– the part that is spinning up from the saw’s table, after the cut is
made. This causes the board to rise and kick back toward the operator.
If your hand is on the board at that point, it can be thrown into
contact with the blade before you know it. A careful worker can avoid
both these situations, but it takes more skill, experience and
diligence to avoid the second one.
A proper riving knife travels
with the blade as it is raised, lowered of tilted, covering the area
behind the back of the blade. It is close to the same thickness as the
blade, so that a piece of wood can’t move into the rising saw teeth,
and your hand can’t come in contact with this part of the blade. It
keeps the wood tight against the fence for a few inches after the cut
has been made. This is an inexpensive, effective and proactive approach
to preventing accidents before they happen. Bosch, Delta, DeWalt, Grizzly,
General, Jet, Powermatic, Shop Fox and Steel City are all displaying saws at AWFS
equipped with riving knives that will are either now available, or will
be available in the next few months.
 An inside look at Jet's riving knife system.
In
addition to requiring riving knives the new regulations also will
require that guards can be removed and replaced in less than 20
seconds, without the use of tools. This eliminates the excuse that many
of us use, that it is too much trouble to remove and replace the guard.
The tool companies are taking some different approaches to this. The
Powermatic and Steel City Saws have a lever that releases the guard and
pawl assembly. When that is removed, the riving knife snaps in where
the guard was. Grizzly’s approach is similar but instead of a lever, a nut is turned.
By far, the best systems we saw were on the Jet
Exacta saw, and on inexpensive job-site saws from Bosch and DeWalt. With these
systems, each part of the assembly is a separate component, held in
place with a spring-loaded pin or a lever. If you want to use the guard
and splitter, but remove the pawls, you can do so in just a few seconds.
 I
liked the Bosch and DeWalt systems the best, because of the over-blade guard, which
has a clear plastic cover for each side of the blade. When lifted up,
there is a detent at the top that holds the guard above the blade. If
you want to make a measurement from fence to blade, or rip a narrow
piece, you can do so without fighting the guard.
Here is a rundown of what we saw:
Bosch’s riving knife is available on the 4100 series of job-site saw.
Grizzly
introduced its system on a 12” saw last year at the IWF show in
Atlanta. This year it has put the same system on a new 10” cabinet saw
(the G0651 and G0652). In addition, Grizzly has a nice 10”
European-style saw (the G0623X) with riving knife and European guard
with dust collection, a sliding table and a scoring blade for a bit
less than a SawStop 10” cabinet saw.
Jet has a riving knife and
easily removable guard on its 10” Xacta saw. Jet’s hybrid and
contractor saws have an easily removable guard, but riving knives won’t
be available for these in the near future.
Powermatic includes the riving knife on its PM2000 model, which has been available in this configuration since early 2006.
Steel
City will introduce its riving knife and guard system on its hybrid
saws, beginning around the first of 2008. This is the same saw that
surprised the show with a granite top Wednesday morning. This saw will
be available with either a cast iron or granite top. The company’s
larger cabinet saws will incorporate these features next spring.
We
are looking forward to taking all of these saws for a test-drive in our
shop this fall and winter, and we salute these forward-thinking
manufacturers for going ahead and including these features ahead of
schedule.
— Robert W. Lang read more reports from the 2007 AWFS show
Read other entries by Robert W. Lang
Friday, July 20, 2007 9:57:53 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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 Thursday, July 19, 2007
Answers to Bicycle Lathe Questions
 Don Weber’s Bicycle Lathe article in the August 2007 issue (#163) has sparked a lot of interest and questions. So below, Don has provided answers to some of the repeat questions. He’s also working on a plan drawing for constructing a bicycle lathe; we’ll let you know as soon as the plan is available, and how you can get it.
Concerning shaft dimension and fittings: I used a 1" cold-rolled steel shaft procured from my local machine shop. Any 1"-diameter shaft will do; it fits a standard pillow block available from most hardware stores. The bicycle sprocket, purchased from my local bike shop, is a standard 13-tooth, single-gear sprocket. I had our local machinist turn a collet for me to thread into the fine threaded hole in the sprocket, leaving enough collar to drill and tap for a ¼” 20 set screw. You can turn your own collet from hardwood (I’ve made one from Lignnum Vitae), but steel will last longer.
The attachments for the flywheel and faceplate, or grinding wheel attachment, were 1-1/2" floor flanges with a 1" reducer. The extra reducer allowed me to drill and tap for the 1/4" 20 set screw. The floor flange does not have enough shoulder to accommodate a set screw. I had to drill out the threads in the reducer with a 1" drill on the drill press. I did this by screwing the flange and reducer to a scrap of plywood, then clamping the plywood to the drill-press table. It made holding the reducer more secure and safe. It also helped to keep the bore true to the shaft.
For other questions regarding the lathe, e-mail Don Weber (dbodger@kyblue.com) — and we'll let you know soon about plan availability.
— Megan Fitzpatrick
Thursday, July 19, 2007 11:21:46 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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 Tuesday, July 17, 2007
Exclusive: Steel City Will Rock Your World

In a completely inspired move, newcomers Steel City Tool Works is unveiling a line of machinery later this year that will use granite – let me repeat that – granite as a key component.
Steel City’s new hybrid 10” table saw will sport a 150-pound black granite top that is flat across its width (measured diagonally) by .001” to .002” at most. This top will never warp and never rust. It will add extra weight to reduce vibration. And it looks incredible.
We’re not talking about a piece of granite like you would find in a kitchen countertop that’s about 3/4” thick. This top is 50 mm thick (about 2”). In addition to this granite top, this new hybrid saw will feature a European-style riving knife and guard (hurrah!), a trunnion system that adds many extra pounds of cast iron mass and an improved fence system that glides over the tabletop.
Once you get over the shock of a granite-topped table saw, you’re probably thinking it’s going to be expensive. Nope. The base-model table saw with a granite top will come with 30”-long rails and a 1-3/4hp motor for $1,049 after a rebate is applied. (You also can get the saw with a cast-iron top for $999 after rebate, but for $50 the granite is the hot ticket.)
Steel City plans to release the granite-topped table saw in November or December, according to company officials.

The underside of the granite-topped 14" band saw.
In addition to adding the granite to the top of the hybrid table saw, Steel City is also putting the granite top on its new 14” band saw (other band saws from Steel City will follow suit), and a 6” jointer and 8” jointer.
But the granite on the jointers won’t be on the tops of the machines. It’s going to be the fence. I personally don’t think I’ve ever used or owned a jointer that had fence that was free from twist or bow. We put a straightedge all over the fence on the 8” granite-fenced jointer and that thing is flatter than any fence I’ve encountered. That granite fence is a huge upgrade for accuracy with jointers. The granite on the band saw and jointer should be available in the late fall, possibly as early as October. 
Scott Box places a straightedge on a granite jointer fence.
The Idea for Granite
When senior editors Glen Huey and Robert Lang and I first saw the granite machines we were skeptical of the idea. It seemed like it might be fragile. But then we actually saw it. Now we want one.
So how did the company officials come up with the idea for granite? Scott Box, one of the founders of Steel City Tools, says it all started over a couple beers while the American and Chinese officials of the company were in the city of Quindao, where Steel City has a factory.
The surrounding Shandong province is known for its granite quarries, so the raw materials and skilled labor were right there.
“We’ve always been fighting cast iron,” says Box, who has worked his entire life in the woodworking machinery business. “It warps on its own. When you cut it, it’s like wood. You never know which way it’s going to go.”
When the idea of a granite-topped machine came up, it seemed like a lark. But the more they talked about it, the more it seemed like a good idea. So they picked out some black granite from a nearby mountain (about an hour away from the company’s factory) and started investigating.
The granite can be machined like cast iron on CNC machines, but it doesn’t move when you mill it.
“Cast iron we stress-relieve for six months,” Box says. “These tops have been stress relieved for 150 million years.”
There are some minor differences in a granite top. You cannot tap it. So there are special stainless steel insets epoxied into the rock. The wing of the table saw weighs about 50 pounds so there is additional bracing below (and a micro-adjust system). And the T-slot for the miter gauge is more like a dovetailed way – with a slightly different design for the bar that keeps the gauge from tipping (though the bar is still a true 3/4” x 3/8”).
We’re impressed. We think you will be, too. Steel City Tools impressed us last year with its new offerings of tools, and this innovation proves that the company is moving fast.
— Christopher Schwarz Read all our AWFS coverage at popularwoodworking.com/awfs Read other entries by Christopher Schwarz
Tuesday, July 17, 2007 10:17:55 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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 Friday, July 13, 2007
Popular Woodworking/LumberJocks Challenge 01

LumberJocks is an online community of woodworkers that have a common thread. They enjoy sharing with one another, they appreciate one another’s work, and a good challenge doesn’t go unanswered. We know firsthand about their penchant for a challenge because Popular Woodworking, with some urging from LumberJocks members, issued a challenge. Immediately, many members were off to the shop to plan their entries, and try to goad others into revealing their ideas.
 The challenge was to use the Thorsen House Table from the February 2007 (Issue #160) of Popular Woodworking as inspiration to build a project using the Greene & Greene design, while adding personal design details. We knew from the chatter on the LumberJocks web site the challenge was going to be great.
Normally the LumberJocks members judge themselves. This time, however, the Popular Woodworking editors were handed the honor. As the projects made their way onto the web site, we realized the task was not going to be easy. Then as the deadline passed, we knew we had a tough job in front of us.
After careful scrutiny we awarded the top position. That honor goes to Neil Lamens. In the LumberJocks circle, as well as elsewhere, he is known as "Furniturologist." Lamens has a history in woodworking that began in his college days at Oswego University in New York. The woodworking bug followed him throughout his career until choices finally lead him to where he is today. Click here to read his story.
 We liked the way Lamens included a drawer, and the way the pegs added to the drawer continued the Greene & Greene look in the design. He also converted the piece to a size that was more functional for his needs. By trimming the thickness of the top and breadboard ends, he lightened the overall look without sacrificing the design. If time had permitted, it would have been nice to see a bit more detail work on the table.
The honorable-mention tables were extremely nice as well. John Hoyt’s entry (he's "jackh" to the LumberJocks) was very elegant and built according to plan. If this were a reproduction contest he’d have taken the prize. We particularly liked the way he used different species of mahogany to highlight aspects of the table. The Brothers Greene would have liked it as well.
The table submitted by Mark Schroeder (aka "schroeder" to the LumberJocks) shows many of the original design ideas and he too decided to add a drawer to the table. It was a nice touch to make it concealed. We especially applaud the book-matched top and the additional work put into the shelf.
Popular Woodworking salutes all the entries. Everyone did great work. To see the entire list of entries from the LumberJocks community visit challenge 01 at their web site. But, while you’re there, check out the rest of the site. And keep an eye out for future challenges from Popular Woodworking and the LumberJocks.
Thanks to all who participated. – Glen D. Huey
Read other entries by Glen D. Huey
Friday, July 13, 2007 10:25:19 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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 Tuesday, July 10, 2007
Stickley Drawers-A Close Look at Details
The great thing about writing for the blog (as opposed to for the magazine) is that there isn't any time lag for reader reaction. For the magazine, we're trying to wrap up our October issue before leaving for fabulous Las Vegas for the AWFS show. I won't know for another month and a half what anybody thinks of my work in that issue. On the other hand, I knew right away how people felt about last week's blog entry.With all the favorable comments and e-mails requesting more, I thought I should continue.
Below is an upper drawer on a Gustav Stickley #814 sideboard. I took some heat for not including drawer details in my two books of Craftsman furniture drawings. My reasoning was two-fold — the small scale necessary for the book pages would make the drawings cluttered, and most people will build drawers the way they want to anyway. Here is my take on the real thing.
 In the early 1900s when this piece was made, people didn't have the same attitude that we have about dovetails. We tend to hold dovetails in awe, and for all the attention they get, you might think that this joint is the most important part of the entire piece. It's there to hold the drawer front on, and it doesn't have to be pretty to do that. Normal people will take a quick glance, notice that dovetails are there and get on with their lives. Woodworkers, on the other hand will get down on their hands and knees, pull out a magnifying glass and start an endless session of speculation and debate.
What I think is interesting is that this is a hand-cut dovetail in a piece of factory-made furniture. Dovetail machines were invented in the late 1800s and were likely commonplace by the 1920s. Stickley's factory was well-equipped for the time, but we don't have much information about specific machines or operations. I think this is an example of a hand-tool solution in a production environment. The typical Gus Stickley drawer is inset, with small, even gaps and smooth operation — even after 100 years.
 The only pictures that exist of the inside of Stickley's Craftsman Workshops show cabinetmakers fitting doors and drawers to nearly completed pieces. It's easy to adopt a romantic point of view and think these guys made each piece one at a time. But that just doesn't fit with a factory setting and the volume of work produced. My best guess is that carcases and drawers were assembled up the line, and at a final workstation were fit together. The way the drawers were made and hung supports this scenario.
 The little ear sticking out of the end of the drawer front gives a lot of leeway for fitting the front to the opening. A less-skilled worker could make drawers in batches, and the thin amount of end grain could be quickly trimmed without the need to shave the entire side of the drawer box. A few swipes with a block plane by a seasoned hand and the drawer is fit end to end. Likewise, the top and bottom can be shaved quickly to fit the opening. If the front is made a bit wider than the sides of the drawers, this is fast and easy.
 Here is a look from below. The center guide screwed to the drawer bottom makes the adjustments to the drawer front possible without affecting how the drawer box slides or fits. This guide fits between two similar pieces on the inside of the case. This controls how the drawer moves in and out, not the fit of the drawer box to the case.
We will be posting next week from the show, here on the blog, in our e-mail newsletter (to which you can sign on the Popular Woodworking home page) and on this special page devoted to our trip to the AWFS. When we're back, we will be on the lookout for more details to share.
— Bob Lang
Read other entries by Robert W. Lang
Tuesday, July 10, 2007 11:56:01 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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Finishing & More on Finishing
After the article “Finishing Formulas” ran in the April 2007 issue of Popular Woodworking magazine, I’ve received many questions from woodworkers that don’t have the ability to spray on a finish. Another came in just the other day. They all state they’re ready to finish their latest project, and can these same spray finishing techniques can be accomplished using a brush.
Most often I answer by saying they should use this opportunity to convince their better half, or maybe just convince themselves, they need to invest in a High Volume Low Pressure (HVLP) spray system. There are a number of good units that are reasonably priced. As often as I push forth that idea, they counter with “That isn’t going to happen.” So, in truth, without the sales job, the simple answer is, "yes." With a little time and effort, and a good brush, you can achieve the results you'd get with a spray gun and turbine.
What’s a good brush? A good brush is not made of foam. Foam brushes are all right for applying some stains, but when applying a topcoat, a quality brush will give you a quality finish. Conversely, a fifty-cent brush will achieve a fifty-cent finish.
If you plan to finish a small project such as the Simple Shaker Shelves from our "I Can Do That" column in the same issue, you’ll be able to open the stain and/or finish and begin immediately. This type of project is small compared to a high chest of drawers and generally does not have the additional components that the chest would have. There is no concern about the finish materials drying too quickly, or having lap marks from stain, or thick edges in a topcoat.
 For staining, the same holds true with a larger project. Because the stain is going to run everywhere (that’s why I stain the interior of my projects) and you need to get the color even, work quickly and slop the stain on the piece. Make sure to load it on heavy. I like to see the stain drip from the project. Then I know I’m getting the piece saturated and covered.
But, if you plan on adding your topcoat to that high chest or a large project with a brush and elbow grease, I would suggest you go after it by using your head. By that I mean you should think about the process. Divide the project into segments and work those segments one at a time. For the most part, large pieces are segmented. There is a natural dividing point that allows you to work on one portion of the project without fear of fussing with another area.
If you examine the high chest of drawers, of course the drawers are individual units. But most often the case is in two sections and both of the upper and lower sections have four sides. All of a sudden the majority of your finishing project, the case, is split into 16 segments. Applying finish to those areas one at a time reduces the task into manageable parts. As you work keep runs and drips off the areas not being coated or if necessary tape-off any areas to keep them free of finish until you’re ready to get there.
Take a look at a section from the article (click the PDF listed below). It lists a number of pieces from my books and what the finishes consist of, including the stain, topcoats and any steps in between. Look at the projects and find the natural dividing segments that you would use to apply the finish.
With a little planning on your part and a good quality brush, you can achieve a finish that’s as smooth and clean as you would get using a HVLP sprayer.
I Do it My Way.pdf (936.44 KB)– Glen Huey Read other entries by Glen D. Huey
Tuesday, July 10, 2007 8:15:59 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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 Tuesday, July 03, 2007
Festool Domino: Thinking Outside the Box
 One of the best things in life is time. It’s a scarce commodity for most people to find time to spend with loved ones, time to loaf around the house or time to experiment in the workshop.
This week, we finished the latest issue of our sister publication, Woodworking Magazine. You won’t see the issue in all the normal locations. This issue is our first digital download version (you'll be able to download a copy at woodworking-magazine.com/backissues) or you can watch the blog for a list of retailers in your area carrying the printed copy. But, before we jump full force into our next issue of Popular Woodworking, we’ve got a day or so to play. Time to have a bit of fun in the shop. So, what to do?
Months ago, when the Festool Domino came into vogue here in America, Editor Chris Schwarz and I discussed the tool and what you could do with it that was outside the norm. One of the ideas bantered back and forth was to use the Domino to join a drawer. Now I had the time to give it a try. I’m going to share what I did and see if it awakens your creativity.
In my book “Building Fine Furniture” (Popular Woodworking Books), I built a jewelry box that leaned to the contemporary side trapezoid-shaped drawers. I assembled the drawer boxes with dowel pins drilled through the sides and into the rabbeted fronts. So why not use the Domino the same way?
Out in the shop, I grabbed a few scraps to serve as makeshift drawer parts, and set about preparing the Domino for the job. I needed to assemble the drawer parts prior to cutting the slots, so I turned to Cyanoacrylate glue. It holds well in this situation and sets quick.
With a 1/2" x 1/2" rabbet at the drawer front, I decided to use the 5mm x 30mm Dominos. I wanted the Domino to be centered in the 1/2" rabbet. I marked the proposed Domino centers spaced evenly along the edge of the drawer front – even though this is playtime, I still want the end result to look good – and made the cuts with the tool.
Here’s a word of caution. For my first attempt, I loaded the glue into the slots and drove home the Dominos. As I seated the Domino with the mallet, I also forced the extra glue from the slot. As the residual amount gushed outward, it disengaged the side from the front. I broke the CA joint.
On the second try I added the correct amount of glue and swabbed the glue around the sides of the slot, tapped the Domino into the slot and bingo – joint complete.
I think you’ll agree the end result is a contemporary look created with a tool designed for loose-tenon construction.
I enjoy finding different ways to use existing tools. The Domino is a completely new tool from which to springboard.
How about you? Have developed any non-traditional uses for the Festool Domino? How about other tools in your shop? If you have, share them with us by clicking below on “comments” and speaking your piece.
There are many of us who enjoy this type of discovery – if only we had extra free time to make it happen more often. – Glen Huey
Read other entries by Glen D. Huey
Tuesday, July 03, 2007 9:59:25 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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