Today folks representing Ridgid stopped by the Popular Woodworking shop. Techtronic Industries North America, Inc. (TTI) Product Manager Jon Van Bergen and Paul Fitzmaurice of Imre Communications visited and they brought tools.

TTI is the manufacturer of Ridgid-branded power tools, a full line of power tools available at Home Depot. This morning the guys unveiled for us a 12" dual-bevel miter saw, a 13" thickness planer and a 3" x 18" belt sander (timing couldn’t have been better after the results of the recent blog posting on belt sanders).

We started with the newest thickness planer (R4330). The 13", 15-amp machine is a new four-post design; the head travels up and down on four posts whereas the older version traveled on just two posts, so now it's beefier. This new design also increases the knife count from two to three, so it makes 30,000 cuts per minute and  runs 26 feet of stock during that same amount of time.

New features abound in the new planer. Ridgid has added the "Ind-I-Cut" depth-measurement system for accuracy in cuts. This feature allows you to predetermine the amount of cut for the stock. Nudge the material under the front edge of the machine, then lower the head until the indicator registers the exact depth of cut you select. The planer is at the stores now, but here’s a hint. It has the same SKU number as the older unit, so make sure you buy the new version (check the packaging for the knife count, and look for "three").
The cost? $349.

In addition, Ridgid included the "Repeat-A-Cut" depth-stop setting. Use this to achieve equal thicknesses anytime by setting the depth stop and working the material to your selected thickness. The selection is determined by sliding a lever to one of eight stops.

The 12" dual-bevel miter saw features a new "Exactline Adjustable Laser" that can be set according to your method of work. If you like the laser set to the left, right or dead center of the cut, all you need to do is position the beam accordingly.

What caught my eye was the 90º-crosscutting capacity for the saw. This bad boy cuts a 2 x 10 clean. That, for anyone not familiar with the home-construction industry, translates to 9-1/4" of cut. That exceeds most of the competition by 2" of cut or more. Do you really need a sliding miter saw? This 12" miter saw should start shipping in the next few weeks. The price is $349.

A new variable-speed belt sander is due out in October of this year. It’s a compact unit that takes a standard 3" x 18" belt (no looking for special sizes). It feels good in your hand and the smaller size allows it to do more than just sand flat – think sculpting and rounding. A new feature brought to the table by Ridgid is onboard twin fans. One fan is directed at cooling the motor while the second fan facilitates dust collection. In older designs, the single fan does double duty and neither job is done to the best ability.

I noticed the rear roller is slightly larger than the front roller. Does this add to the ability of the sander? I was told it just looked good. Since you bloggers have issued a new directive on bringing belt sanders into the shop for review purposes, I cannot wait to get a hold this one. Look for this sander to cost just under a C-note.

We have the miter saw and thickness planer in the shop, so as we get time to put the tools through their paces, we’ll report back. They look good out of the box, but that’s the easy part. Keep an eye out for further information. And if you have anything specific you would like for us to address, send a comment our way or contact me via e-mail.

– Glen D. Huey

In the hardwood forests of western Pennsylvania several years ago (hence the short hair and shave).

Editor's Note: The following excerpt is from Issue 8 of Woodworking Magazine, our sister publication to Popular Woodworking. The latest issue of this advertising-free magazine is now available. You can buy a printed copy or download a digital version directly from us. If you like Popular Woodworking, I think you'll also enjoy Woodworking Magazine, which takes conventional woodworking wisdom to task. You can learn more about how this magazine is different on its web site.

No one told my elder daughter that it would be difficult to make clothing by hand and by eye – without a pattern, a machine or even a lesson.

And perhaps because no one told Maddy that it would be hard, it wasn’t. During the last three years she has made more than a hundred garments for her stuffed animals, from jogging suits to sequined disco pants to chain mail. She works entirely by instinct. Never measuring. Just cutting, stitching and improving.

Now, every parent will tell you that their child is remarkable, but I don’t think that’s the case here. I don’t think Maddy is a stitching savant. I think that she simply is acting on an impulse and without fear of failure.

It would be easy (read: lazy) for me to now end this column with that same advice about woodworking: Don’t be afraid; just get to it. But I know that the fear of failure can be crippling.

For example, last week I taught Maddy how to pump gasoline. Learning that common task was so stressful that by the end of the lesson, her hands were trembling a bit as she yanked the receipt from the pump. At first I was bemused by her trepidation. But then I realized the difference between pumping gas and pushing a sewing needle. It was the raw material.

Maddy has a lifetime supply of cloth in our basement, thanks to the women in my life who buy it for her. And when she needs more sequined fabric to make a disco jacket and floppy hat to match the pants, it will cost her a dollar or two for a supply that will last many years.

Now consider gasoline: It’s precious, poisonous and explosive. So here’s my real point: I think that wood is a lot more like cloth than it is like gasoline.

This statement might be hard for some of us to swallow at first. It was for me. I’m a conservationist at heart, and saving the trees always seemed like a good idea when I was growing up.

But home woodworkers aren’t really the source of the problem when you talk about deforestation, which I know is a critical problem in some places on the globe. Several years ago I toured the hardwood forests of Pennsylvania with a group of journalists and watched loggers cut down enough cherry trees in an hour to last me more than 100 lifetimes of building furniture.

It was that trip that changed my view of the raw material we work with. Before that moment, I would squeeze every single part of a project out of the fewest number of rough boards, even if that meant compromising the design or aesthetics. I would allow myself to use a board with a less-than-ideal grain pattern in a face frame or door stile or stretcher. This, I argued to myself, was being a good steward of the forest.

Now I see things differently. I get only one chance to make each project. And the fate of that project – kicked to the curb or cherished by my grandchildren – depends on the choices I make today with regard to its design, grain, joints and finish.

I don’t throw away tons of wood, but I’m not afraid to plow through lots of it to find the right board. I’m not afraid to make a lot of test cuts to get a tight joint. And I’m not afraid to make a lot of sample boards to get the right finish. My leftover pieces end up as interior parts for a future project, as kindling or as compost at the dump. So here’s my confession: I now throw away more wood than I ever did before.

But here’s how I rationalize that choice: The more wood I go through, the better my end result is. And wood is a renewable resource. We can get it almost anywhere, even rescuing it from the city dump if we so desire. Furthermore, wood is inexpensive when compared to the hours of labor invested in any piece of fine workmanship.

All this makes me bristle when I see companies hawking virgin plastic products under the guise of “saving a tree.” Where do they think plastic comes from? It comes from petroleum.

So consider this: We can (and should) always plant more trees (or make more sequined cloth). Compressing dinosaur poop for a million years, however, is another matter.

— Christopher Schwarz

Don Weber’s Bicycle Lathe article in the August 2007 issue (#163) has sparked a lot of interest and questions. So below, Don has provided answers to some of the repeat questions. He’s also working on a plan drawing for constructing a bicycle lathe; we’ll let you know as soon as the plan is available, and how you can get it.

Concerning shaft dimension and fittings: I used a 1" cold-rolled steel shaft procured from my local machine shop. Any 1"-diameter shaft will do; it fits a standard pillow block available from most hardware stores. The bicycle sprocket, purchased from my local bike shop, is a standard 13-tooth, single-gear sprocket. I had our local machinist turn a collet for me to thread into the fine threaded hole in the sprocket, leaving enough collar to drill and tap for a ¼” 20 set screw. You can turn your own collet from hardwood (I’ve made one from Lignnum Vitae), but steel will last longer.

The attachments for the flywheel and faceplate, or grinding wheel attachment, were 1-1/2" floor flanges with a 1" reducer. The extra reducer allowed me to drill and tap for the 1/4" 20 set screw. The floor flange does not have enough shoulder to accommodate a set screw. I had to drill out the threads in the reducer with a 1" drill on the drill press. I did this by screwing the flange and reducer to a scrap of plywood, then clamping the plywood to the drill-press table. It made holding the reducer more secure and safe. It also helped to keep the bore true to the shaft.

For other questions regarding the lathe, e-mail Don Weber (dbodger@kyblue.com) — and we'll let you know soon about plan availability.

— Megan Fitzpatrick