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# Friday, August 17, 2007
Respirator Protection an Important Safety Issue


As the letter below notes, many woodwokring publications have recently at least mentioned respirators. In the current issue of Popular Woodworking (August 2007, #163), Chris Schwarz writes in his editor's note ("The Curse of the Creepy Kleenex") that despite meticulous dust-collection efforts in the shop, a respirator is still sometimes a necessity. And in Chapter 7 of Woodworking Essentials in the same issue, Scott Gibson addresses dust collection in great detail. But, there's always room for more good information, as reader Joe Corriveau reminds us:

Many of the publications I subscribe to have been talking about respirators and air filtration. However, I have yet to see anything comprehensive on the subject. My father was an industrial safety salesman and I worked for him for 10 years as the customer service manager, and I also worked for several years for an asbestos demolition company, where respirator protection was the largest safety issue. Here are some respirator issues that I’ve not yet seen discussed:
1) Facial hair will not allow any mask to create the seal that is necessary for the mask to do what it is supposed to do.
2) Most dust masks sold at home-improvement centers are designed for very low-risk applications, and most likely will not work too well for you. You should, at least, look for masks with a metal nasal strip. This allows you to fit the mask better in this area by bending the strip so it follows the contours of you face better creating a better seal. Also, if it has but one elastic strip, don’t bother with it.
3) If you are serious about using a mask, get a silicone half mask with changeable filters.
    a) For most of us, dust filters are all that is needed.
    b) If you do a lot of spraying, get the right filter. A dust filter will not protect you. You will most likely need an “organic vapor/acid gas” cartridge.
    c) If you are using any form of cartridge that has a charcoal filter in it, you need to store it in a airtight container. These cartridges have a life of about 24 hours once the manufacturer’s seals have been removed. Proper storage will extend the life of the filter.
    d) You are better off not buying masks from a home-improvement center. Find a safety distributor in your area. Some will take walk-in private sales. Some will even be willing the test-fit you for a mask. Silicone half masks come in different sizes. Get the one that is right for you. Most salespeople will take the time to talk to you about your activities and get you the right filters for your type of work.
4) Just because you’re done making dust, it doesn’t mean that there isn’t any in the air. Leave your mask on until you either leave the area/your shop, or wait for the dust to settle and the air filters to do their job.
5) Masks, vacuums and air filters all do what they are supposed to do. But, each one does a different thing. None of them, alone or together, can provide full protection. However, all three can provide maximum protection when used together.
6) Your lungs are your life. Take care of them and they will take care of you.

— Joe Corriveau, Milwaukee, Wisconsin

Do you have dust collection tips? We invite you to share them with other readers by leaving a comment.

— Megan Fitzpatrick



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Friday, August 17, 2007 9:56:09 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [8] 
# Wednesday, August 15, 2007
SketchUp — A New Toy and Good News for Readers

Here at Popular Woodworking, we design and build our own projects. We follow the same process most woodworkers do; we make some sketches, we talk about the project and we make working drawings to use in the shop. The drawings you see in the pages of the magazine start life as the drawings we use to build. I usually have my fingers somewhere in the illustration pie as we go from CAD drawings to the published page. I've used different CAD systems over the years, and this summer I've been learning Google SketchUp.

If you haven't heard of SketchUp, you should check it out. It's a free download and it's the most user-friendly design software I have seen. If you've been considering using your computer for making shop drawings, it will be worth your time to give this a try. The price is right, there are good tutorials within the program and online, and there is even a "SketchUp for Dummies" book available. Over on the Woodworking Magazine blog, there is a SketchUp model one of our readers made for a workbench. If you download the software, you can then download the file and play around with it.

What you see at left is a 3-D model of a project I'll be building for our December issue. This isn't what the finished piece will look like, but it's an accurate representation of the parts and how they fit together. With the way the program works, you can make parts, make joints on the parts, then put the whole thing together. You can keep things simple or you can let your obsessive/compulsive side run wild with intricate details and renderings.

The good news for us is that it makes our design process more like building. We can look at a piece from all angles and make sure everything works. The good news for you, the reader, is that we will be able to offer better drawings in the magazine, and a boatload of extra visual material online. For the November issue, there will be an online slide show that details how each part of our "I Can Do That" project goes together. We'll be doing similar things for future issues, and we're getting a little dizzy thinking about all the possibilities.

How about a three-dimensional cutting list that shows each part of a project, or a model of a project that you can take apart and put back together? If drawings leave you wondering what a piece looks like from below or behind, you'll be able to move around and take a look.

At right is a closer-to-finished version of the first image. I had a lot of fun putting this together, and the time I spent in SketchUp will save me time when I get out to the shop. This is the first piece I've made that's based on a pentagon, and there is some tricky joinery below the tabletop and where the shelf meets the legs. My first ideas on how to accomplish this looked good on paper, but wouldn't work in 3-D. Using SketchUp allowed me to change my strategy before I cut any wood. (Although I did need to give some lapped dovetails a tap or two with a virtual mallet.)

So keep your eye on the magazine, our web site and the blog for more detailed, easier-to-understand and more useful project drawings. Let us know what you'd like to see by leaving a comment or sending an e-mail. Just for fun, the first reader to leave a comment correctly identifying this project by name and original maker will win a copy of all of our issues from 2006 on CD, and a copy of my latest book "Shop Drawings for Greene and Greene Furniture"

— Bob Lang



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Wednesday, August 15, 2007 12:25:56 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [3] 
# Thursday, August 09, 2007
In Praise of Cheap, Small Clamps

One of the best-kept secrets in woodworking is the fact that often the most useful devices are not the biggest and most expensive. In the upcoming October issue of Popular Woodworking (mailed to subscribers the last week of August and on sale at newsstands the first week of September) I have an article about a rolling stand for clamps. In addition to that article in the magazine, I’ll be writing an online article about selecting and using clamps. I started on it this morning, but got carried away with writing about my two favorite clamps – the Bessey 2" x 8" "Mighty Mini" Bar Clamp and the Jorgensen size "0" wood handscrew.


If you look closely at the photos of my work in progress, in my books and magazine articles, one or both of these appear in nearly every photo – either in action or in the background. For the last 20 years, I have used a pair of each of these clamps every day I’ve been in the shop and I consider them indispensable. When I go out to a job site or somewhere to give a class, they are the first things I pack for the trip. Here in the shop I don’t exactly hide them, but they do have a special place I keep them, and my name or initials are on them in case they wander off.

So what’s the big deal? Each on it’s own has many uses. Because they are small and light, they don’t get in the way. I use the bar clamps for holding stacks of parts together for layout work, and I also use them to hold fixtures and featherboards to the table saw or router table fence. If I put them in the right spot on the router table fence, I can slip the hose for the dust collector over the clamps directly behind the cutter.



The handscrews also see a lot of use. These are the right size for a stop on the miter saw or miter gauge on the table saw. Because they are wood, they won’t cause any damage if they get nicked by a table-saw blade or a router bit while holding something small. When working on small parts, I clamp the work in the handscrew, and the handscrew in the bench vise. The jaws will swivel out of parallel to hold an odd shape or to exert pressure on a specific point.



They also work together as a team – one clamp can hold the work while the second clamp holds the first one down to any nearby surface. It’s not as good as a real vise, but if you find yourself somewhere with no vise (or no bench) you can still hold your work securely. Over the years, I’ve seen a lot of new ideas for clamping work. Some are silly enough to dismiss out of hand, but others have looked promising enough to try. I keep going back to these old favorites.

Maybe the best part is you get to go like this:



– Robert Lang


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Thursday, August 09, 2007 4:42:21 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [6] 
# Tuesday, August 07, 2007
Ridgid Tools for review

Today folks representing Ridgid stopped by the Popular Woodworking shop. Techtronic Industries North America, Inc. (TTI) Product Manager Jon Van Bergen and Paul Fitzmaurice of Imre Communications visited and they brought tools.

TTI is the manufacturer of Ridgid-branded power tools, a full line of power tools available at Home Depot. This morning the guys unveiled for us a 12" dual-bevel miter saw, a 13" thickness planer and a 3" x 18" belt sander (timing couldn’t have been better after the results of the recent blog posting on belt sanders).

We started with the newest thickness planer (R4330). The 13", 15-amp machine is a new four-post design; the head travels up and down on four posts whereas the older version traveled on just two posts, so now it's beefier. This new design also increases the knife count from two to three, so it makes 30,000 cuts per minute and  runs 26 feet of stock during that same amount of time.

New features abound in the new planer. Ridgid has added the "Ind-I-Cut" depth-measurement system for accuracy in cuts. This feature allows you to predetermine the amount of cut for the stock. Nudge the material under the front edge of the machine, then lower the head until the indicator registers the exact depth of cut you select. The planer is at the stores now, but here’s a hint. It has the same SKU number as the older unit, so make sure you buy the new version (check the packaging for the knife count, and look for "three").
The cost? $349.

In addition, Ridgid included the "Repeat-A-Cut" depth-stop setting. Use this to achieve equal thicknesses anytime by setting the depth stop and working the material to your selected thickness. The selection is determined by sliding a lever to one of eight stops.

The 12" dual-bevel miter saw features a new "Exactline Adjustable Laser" that can be set according to your method of work. If you like the laser set to the left, right or dead center of the cut, all you need to do is position the beam accordingly.

What caught my eye was the 90º-crosscutting capacity for the saw. This bad boy cuts a 2 x 10 clean. That, for anyone not familiar with the home-construction industry, translates to 9-1/4" of cut. That exceeds most of the competition by 2" of cut or more. Do you really need a sliding miter saw? This 12" miter saw should start shipping in the next few weeks. The price is $349.

A new variable-speed belt sander is due out in October of this year. It’s a compact unit that takes a standard 3" x 18" belt (no looking for special sizes). It feels good in your hand and the smaller size allows it to do more than just sand flat – think sculpting and rounding. A new feature brought to the table by Ridgid is onboard twin fans. One fan is directed at cooling the motor while the second fan facilitates dust collection. In older designs, the single fan does double duty and neither job is done to the best ability.

I noticed the rear roller is slightly larger than the front roller. Does this add to the ability of the sander? I was told it just looked good. Since you bloggers have issued a new directive on bringing belt sanders into the shop for review purposes, I cannot wait to get a hold this one. Look for this sander to cost just under a C-note.

We have the miter saw and thickness planer in the shop, so as we get time to put the tools through their paces, we’ll report back. They look good out of the box, but that’s the easy part. Keep an eye out for further information. And if you have anything specific you would like for us to address, send a comment our way or contact me via e-mail.

– Glen D. Huey


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Tuesday, August 07, 2007 3:34:22 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [5] 
# Monday, August 06, 2007
Why I Waste Wood

In the hardwood forests of western Pennsylvania several years ago (hence the short hair and shave).

Editor's Note: The following excerpt is from Issue 8 of Woodworking Magazine, our sister publication to Popular Woodworking. The latest issue of this advertising-free magazine is now available. You can buy a printed copy or download a digital version directly from us. If you like Popular Woodworking, I think you'll also enjoy Woodworking Magazine, which takes conventional woodworking wisdom to task. You can learn more about how this magazine is different on its web site.

No one told my elder daughter that it would be difficult to make clothing by hand and by eye – without a pattern, a machine or even a lesson.

And perhaps because no one told Maddy that it would be hard, it wasn’t. During the last three years she has made more than a hundred garments for her stuffed animals, from jogging suits to sequined disco pants to chain mail. She works entirely by instinct. Never measuring. Just cutting, stitching and improving.

Now, every parent will tell you that their child is remarkable, but I don’t think that’s the case here. I don’t think Maddy is a stitching savant. I think that she simply is acting on an impulse and without fear of failure.

It would be easy (read: lazy) for me to now end this column with that same advice about woodworking: Don’t be afraid; just get to it. But I know that the fear of failure can be crippling.

For example, last week I taught Maddy how to pump gasoline. Learning that common task was so stressful that by the end of the lesson, her hands were trembling a bit as she yanked the receipt from the pump. At first I was bemused by her trepidation. But then I realized the difference between pumping gas and pushing a sewing needle. It was the raw material.

Maddy has a lifetime supply of cloth in our basement, thanks to the women in my life who buy it for her. And when she needs more sequined fabric to make a disco jacket and floppy hat to match the pants, it will cost her a dollar or two for a supply that will last many years.

Now consider gasoline: It’s precious, poisonous and explosive. So here’s my real point: I think that wood is a lot more like cloth than it is like gasoline.

This statement might be hard for some of us to swallow at first. It was for me. I’m a conservationist at heart, and saving the trees always seemed like a good idea when I was growing up.

But home woodworkers aren’t really the source of the problem when you talk about deforestation, which I know is a critical problem in some places on the globe. Several years ago I toured the hardwood forests of Pennsylvania with a group of journalists and watched loggers cut down enough cherry trees in an hour to last me more than 100 lifetimes of building furniture.

It was that trip that changed my view of the raw material we work with. Before that moment, I would squeeze every single part of a project out of the fewest number of rough boards, even if that meant compromising the design or aesthetics. I would allow myself to use a board with a less-than-ideal grain pattern in a face frame or door stile or stretcher. This, I argued to myself, was being a good steward of the forest.

Now I see things differently. I get only one chance to make each project. And the fate of that project – kicked to the curb or cherished by my grandchildren – depends on the choices I make today with regard to its design, grain, joints and finish.

I don’t throw away tons of wood, but I’m not afraid to plow through lots of it to find the right board. I’m not afraid to make a lot of test cuts to get a tight joint. And I’m not afraid to make a lot of sample boards to get the right finish. My leftover pieces end up as interior parts for a future project, as kindling or as compost at the dump. So here’s my confession: I now throw away more wood than I ever did before.

But here’s how I rationalize that choice: The more wood I go through, the better my end result is. And wood is a renewable resource. We can get it almost anywhere, even rescuing it from the city dump if we so desire. Furthermore, wood is inexpensive when compared to the hours of labor invested in any piece of fine workmanship.

All this makes me bristle when I see companies hawking virgin plastic products under the guise of “saving a tree.” Where do they think plastic comes from? It comes from petroleum.

So consider this: We can (and should) always plant more trees (or make more sequined cloth). Compressing dinosaur poop for a million years, however, is another matter.

— Christopher Schwarz


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Monday, August 06, 2007 8:37:02 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [6] 
# Saturday, August 04, 2007
Politics and Woodworking

When I took this job in 1996, I remember calling my dad to give him the news. His reaction confused me at the time: “That’s great son,” he said. “Woodworkers and carpenters are good people. You’ll be happy.”

It turned out to be a prescient comment. One of the things that has kept me in this job for so long (journalism is an itinerant profession) has been the readers who call to comment, complain or commend. There is something about people who work wood with their hands that sets them apart from the general population.

I know this because as a newspaper reporter, I got to sample a wide variety of the general population. And as someone who co-founded his own political newspaper (that failed), I also got to rub elbows with the elite and the powerful.

As I left the newspaper world behind in 1996, I wondered what sort of people woodworkers were, especially after my father’s comments. I knew only a handful from my classes at the University of Kentucky. There were no woodworking Internet forums that I knew of. I was unaware of my local club in central Kentucky.

And coming from a political publication, I wondered what sort of politics were associated with woodworking. I mean, you can see it both ways. There is the self-reliance and discipline in the craft that you find in many Republicans. And there also is a nature-oriented sensitivity that is common among many Democrats. There is a spiritualism in the wood you would expect from evangelicals. There is a deep river of science and chemistry you’d find in the atheists.

For years, I just assumed I’d never know the answer to this question. Then one day Publisher Steve Shanesy received a survey of woodworkers that had been commissioned by Woodcraft. The catalog and retail company was trying to assess the craft so they could see what should be done to ensure its future health.

The survey was interesting, but what was even more interesting to me was that the survey company Woodcraft hired was typically involved in political research. As I dug into the raw data, I saw that they had actually asked all these woodworkers their party affiliation and if they considered themselves liberal, moderate or conservative. And the survey company also compared this data to the population at large.

At long last, I was going to have my answer.

As it turns out, woodworker’s political persuasion matches exactly that of the population at large. The craft is filled with people from all political persuasions, from Yellow Dog Democrats to Rock Ribbed Republicans. (And don’t forget the Libertarians.)  So when it comes to what happens in the voting booth, we’re all over the map.

But there’s still something different about woodworkers. A couple weeks ago a reader wrote me about a sander I was selling (see my column from the August 2007 issue for more on this). So without a single qualm I boxed it up and sent it to him. I told him to send me a check if he liked it. Never once did it cross my mind that I’d be stiffed.

Yesterday the check showed up, right on time. I wasn’t the least bit surprised. Woodworkers are, like my dad said, just good people.

— Christopher Schwarz


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Saturday, August 04, 2007 3:13:23 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [11] 
# Thursday, August 02, 2007
Bosch Riving Knife — No More Excuses for Woodworkers
This year at the AWFS show we saw several new table saws with new guard systems that include riving knives. I wrote about it here on the blog and the other day one of these saws, the Bosch 4100 jobsite saw, arrived on our loading dock. I unpacked the saw this morning, and we'll have a full review in an upcoming issue of Popular Woodworking. For now, here's a close look at this innovative guard system.


The guard consists of three components – the riving knife/splitter, the anti-kickback pawls and the blade cover. The best thing about this guard is the engineering that makes it the most user-friendly system I have seen. The reasons many woodworkers don't regularly use guards are 1) it takes too long to remove, replace and realign the guard, and 2) it gets in the way when you're setting up for a cut, or when the fence is close to the blade. The two plastic side shields on this guard lift up and out of the way and there is a catch to hold the guard up until you want to lower it.

The blade cover attaches to the riving knife/splitter by clamping into place. The lever in my hand releases the guard and it then is easily removed from the saw. Elapsed time for this operation is about five seconds.

The anti-kickback pawls release in a similar fashion. Squeezing a button disengages a pin and the pawls lift out of the way. This also only takes a few seconds, and you can leave the blade cover in place and remove the pawls independently.

After removing the table insert, another lever releases the riving knife/splitter. This doesn't come out of the machine, but it slides in an arced slot and locks in one of three positions. The lever clamps the splitter against a flat piece that is part of the arbor assembly, so it is always in line with the blade.  In the top position, it comes up above the top of the blade to allow the blade cover and pawls to attach.

The middle position brings the top of the knife just below the top of the saw blade. If you're making a non-through cut (like a rabbet or a groove) the knife is still acting as a splitter by keeping material against the fence, and by keeping it from binding on the blade. The lowest position drops the knife completely below the blade, out of the way for changing blades.

The riving knife stays in this position when you raise, lower, or tilt the blade. It shields the teeth at the back of the blade to prevent the piece you're cutting from coming in contact with the saw blade. If you look at the picture, you can see that these teeth are the ones most likely to grab something and throw it up and back.

Hats off to Bosch for putting this in place; I'm hoping this is a sign of things to come for all table saws.

— Robert W. Lang

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Thursday, August 02, 2007 2:33:49 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [7] 
# Wednesday, August 01, 2007
Happy Woodworking As We Age


I’ve been woodworking or around woodworking for nearly 35 years. Over many of those years I had the pleasure of working with my father. I think it’s what has kept both of us younger than our driver’s licenses indicate. That’s because the space between our ages remains constant. It’s both a boon and a burden.

It’s a boon just due to the fact that I can say I’ve spent many days, weeks and years working beside my Dad, soaking up his knowledge and growing to understand how he sees things in life. If you have that opportunity, or can allow your children to have that chance, by all means take advantage.

The burden part comes because I don’t really feel the age I am – and that tends to be a problem. If you don’t feel your age, you have a propensity to jump from a workbench to the floor after adjusting clamps on a large case piece, instead of climbing down slowly. A recent jump sent a hotwire to my brain telling me my knees aren’t what the used to be.

Another negative about working with someone over an extended number of years is that we get to watch them age, as they get to watch us. My Dad is getting older and he’ll be the first to admit it. In doing so, I have seen him struggle with a few items in woodworking – mainly because he has lost his hand strength.

Being in the later stages of life, he’s seen many things come and go; he stays with what he knows (that whole new trick/old dog thing). With the ages of baby boomers getting up there as well, I think this is a common problem in which many woodworkers will have an interest.

Dad learned to woodwork using handscrews, so he plans to continue that same path. But, as his hand strength diminishes, he’s come to realize he cannot tighten the clamps the way he did before. He can't get a grip on the handles in order to turn them fully. In order to compensate, we renovated the handles of the old handscrews.

Quite simply, we drilled a 23/64" hole through the handle and drove a 3/8" wooden dowel into the hole. The smaller hole keeps the dowel from sliding out and him from spending time looking for the runaway dowels. The extra piece supplied the torque he needed to make the clamps work.

Either the manufacturers are seeing this too or Bessey just happened to stumble onto a clamp that takes this same problem into account. They have the Kliklamp on the market. This clamp has been out for a while but Bessey has not spent the advertising budget to let us know.

The Kliklamp looks like an F-style clamp with another arm attached. To operate the clamp, open the arm fully by moving it away from the clamp’s main bar, slip the jaws onto the material, then pull the arm back in the opposite direction. You’ll hear a clicking noise as the clamp ratchets tight. Dad likes the way this clamp works (as will other woodworking old-timers). It doesn’t take hand strength to make it happen.

I know I’ve demonstrated only two solutions to what I anticipate as a growing problem. I’m betting you have a few ideas of your own. If you have another solution – or even a different problem associated with woodworking while getting older – let me know. Click the comment box and add your example or solution. And as we compile a list please pass these along to those who might benefit. Everyone wants to continue woodworking for as long as they can. And I'll makes sure Dad  sees them!

– Glen D. Huey


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Wednesday, August 01, 2007 3:23:38 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [2] 
# Saturday, July 28, 2007
New Lie-Nielsen Progressive-pitch Dovetail Saw

In all hand aspects of hand-tool woodworking, how you begin an operation with a hammer, plane or saw greatly influences your chance of success. Maintaining a proper strike, stroke or slice is far easier than trying to recover from a botched one.

So it makes sense that a tool should be designed to be easy to begin an operation. That’s why some hammers have cross-piens, some joinery planes have long fences and some saws have specially shaped teeth.

With saws, the simplest way to make them easier to start is to put some fine teeth at the toe of the tool and coarse teeth at the heel. You begin the cut with short strokes using the fine teeth and then lengthen your strokes to unlock the speed of the coarse teeth. And that’s exactly what Lie-Nielsen Toolworks has done with a customized version of its dovetail saw that is now available for a $10 upcharge.

This special saw with its progressive pitch begins with 16 teeth per inch at the toe and ends with 9 tpi at the heel. Otherwise, the saw is the same as the stock Lie-Nielsen dovetail saw – the teeth are filed rip and the brass back and handle are unchanged.

Thomas Lie-Nielsen loaned me a prototype of one of these saws about 18 months ago to test, and to be honest I didn’t take a liking to it at first. I’ve never had difficulty starting a dovetail saw (everyone learns this with practice) and for some reason found the progressive-pitch saw a bit harder to control than the stock Lie-Nielsen I’ve been using for years.


The fine teeth at the toe of the progressive-pitch dovetail saw.

But I kept using the progressive-pitch model, part out of stubbornness and part out of the knowledge that all freshly sharpened rip saws are a bit grabby and jerky in the cut. After a few months of use, the saw began to break in and I began to – grudgingly – see its merits.


The coarse teeth at the heel of the saw. (This photo was taken at the same magnification as the one above.)

Now it’s my favorite dovetail saw. Not because it starts easy (it does) but because it will fly through a cut thanks to the ravenous coarse teeth at the heel. Now that the saw and I understand each another, each cut goes something like this: Two short strokes at the toe to begin the kerf, followed by three long strokes along the entire toothline, followed by a short stroke or so to just touch the baseline of my joint.

These last little strokes to hit my baseline can be made anywhere on the toothline of the tool – so if I’m really close to my baseline I’ll use the fine teeth at the toe. If I have a little ways to go I’ll use the faster teeth in the middle. I started doing this out of instinct (not cleverness) and didn’t realize I was doing it at first.

This week, Thomas sent me an e-mail saying that his company is ready to start making the progressive-pitch saw for customers. The price is $135. The saw isn’t yet on the company’s web site, but if you call and ask, they will be happy to take your order.

— Christopher Schwarz


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Saturday, July 28, 2007 4:16:18 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [2] 
# Wednesday, July 25, 2007
Belt Sander – Is It a Lost Tool?

At the AWFS show in Las Vegas (I’m sure you’ve seen the blog entries and the special AWFS page at our web site), one of the highlights was a trip to the Hard Rock Café to witness my first Delta/Porter Cable press event. What a great evening.

At the event, Delta/Porter Cable unveiled a new look and some new tools to the attendees. Some of these tools were going to be immediately available, some will be brought out during the coming year and a few were prototypes that may change drastically prior to anyone seeing the end result.

As I surveyed the tools displayed behind velvet ropes – the “look but don’t touch” directive gave the impression of a Hollywood movie-star filled event – I noticed a large number of belt sanders. The belt sander was once my most useful sanding tool, but I cannot remember that last time I used it in the shop.

As I began woodworking I would assemble my panels and when they came out of the clamps, the belt sander was the next tool used. I would flatten the panels, working at a slight angle to the grain and glue line, starting with #120-grit sandpaper then progressing through #150. Once the panel was flat and smooth, I would make a couple passes over the board using #150 and #180 grit in a random orbit sander (ROS).

That entire process got easier with the addition of a drum sander. I used #120 grit in the drum sander, but because a drum sander leaves straight-line scratches, my belt sander was still my tool of choice for the next step in preparing the panels. I used it with #150 grit to clean up those scratches before the ROS took over.

Bringing the wide-belt sander into the shop was the "kiss of death" for my once-beloved belt sander. Now I had a machine that not only sanded flat and smooth, but because the pivoting head allowed the sanding belt to oscillate back and forth, there were no more straight-line scratches. From the wide-belt sander I moved directly to the ROS to finish the sanding process.

This walk down memory lane leads me to wonder about the belt sander’s role in woodworking today. I know hand-tool folks don’t use this tool, except for possible rough grinding of nasty chisels or blades. But what about power tool woodworkers? Do you still have the belt sander in your arsenal of power tools? As new sanders are released should Popular Woodworking bring them in for review? Would those reviews be helpful? Let me know your thoughts by leaving a comment.

– Glen D. Huey


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Wednesday, July 25, 2007 11:17:30 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [24] 
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