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 Monday, February 04, 2008
Plunge-cut Saws Available in Europe
 Has Festool started something big? Is it a new revolution in woodworking? No, I’m not referring to the Domino. That’s old news. Today, I’m writing about Plunge Cut Saws – saws that have a riving knife and so much more.
When the Popular Woodworking team was in Las Vegas for AWFS (Association of Woodworking & Furnishings Suppliers®), we wrote about the invasion of riving knives. We specifically were discussing table saws. But, handheld circular plunge-cut saws fit the bill too.
At AWFS, we spent a great evening with Delta/Porter-Cable. After dinner and entertainment, we were allowed to look at and touch the new tools on display, and talk with company employees about them; these were tools not released at the time. One such tool was a plunge-cut saw. I held the tool in my hands and felt the balance, and looked at the plunge action of the blade. It was very similar to Festool’s TS55EQ saw and the plan was to release the new Delta/Porter-Cable version in Europe sometime in early 2008.
A few weeks ago, I had the opportunity to use a TS55EQ (325 British pounds, US$481) for some work around my shop at home. I was overwhelmed at the ability of the saw. The tool runs on a track which made my cuts on plywood dead straight, and the finish cut was smooth and clean. I was so impressed that I assembled my information and thoughts into a Tool Test column for the April 2008 issue of Popular Woodworking (due to ship to subscribers this week and on sale at newsstands Feb. 26.) I highly recommend the TS55EQ.
Today, it was brought to my attention that a couple other companies have released or are releasing a handheld plunge-cut saw to the market – the European market. Makita has a plunge-type saw out in the U.K. while a DeWalt version is “Coming Soon.” Are they worth the investment? And, how do they stack up to a Festool saw?
Makita has released the SP6000K. It’s a 165 mm plunge saw that boasts a 1300-watt motor and a 55mm (2-1/8") depth of cut at 90º. The SP6000K1 includes a 1.4m (nearly 55") guide rail and is priced at 239 British pounds (US$354). Click here for information.
DeWalt ramps up the choices of the plunge-cut saw to work with other tools in the DeWalt line. You can get a plunge-cut saw (DC351KL) with a 28v Li-ion battery (DeWalt’s nano technology battery) an 18v battery comparable with Dewalt’s XRP line (DC352KB) or you can revert back to the old days and purchase a corded version (DWS520K). The only pricing I could find was for the DC351KL. DeWalt’s saw is priced at 509.79 British pounds (US$756.00). Click here for details.
We couldn’t get any information about possible U.S. release dates or how sales are in the U.K. market. If and/or when we get more news, we’ll let you know. In the meantime, check out the new saws. Maybe your next circular saw should be one with a riving knife that runs on a track. I hope each company has a released planned for the U.S. market – I can’t wait to get hold of each of these new saws.
What do you think? Is this saw strictly for plywood and sheet goods? Or, can you see using this set-up for all your circular-saw needs. Post a comment, but keep your eyes open for more information.
–Glen D. Huey
Read other entries by Glen D. Huey
Monday, February 04, 2008 2:49:39 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00) 
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Monday, January 28, 2008
New PVA Glue from The Gorilla Glue Co.
Gorilla Glue will release a new polyvinyl acetate glue this month that is designed to compete directly with the woodworking mainstays, Titebond and ProBond glues. The new Gorilla Wood Glue is a water-resistant species, looks like a white glue and boasts a shorter clamping time than its competitors.
I've been using the glue for a couple months now, and have been generally impressed with both the glue and the bottle, which is an often-overlooked detail.
Here are some of the important stats on the glue:
• It is called a "Type II" adhesive, which means it's water-resistant, but not waterproof. Build kitchen cabinets from it, but not a dock at the lake.
• It has a stated clamping time of 20 minutes, which is 10 minutes less than the competition. If you are in a hurry or in a professional environment, this can be a big plus. We like to keep our assemblies in the clamps as long as possible.
• The color of the Gorilla Wood Glue is white, which is nice when dealing with gluing light-colored woods.
• The viscosity is about the same as its water-resistant competition.
• The glue nozzle is almost identical to that on Titebond's product. We're fond of this nozzle because it will stay clear of dried glue for a long time (if you remember to close the nozzle after each use).
• The glue will be available in 8 oz. (expect a retail price of $3.99) and 18 oz. (about $5.99) sizes.
After some small-scale tests in December, I used the Gorilla Glue last week on five maple panels I am gluing up for a blanket chest project. The glue lays out nicely like a quality PVA should. It cleaned up easily with water and set up fairly fast – this is a big asset when gluing up lots of panels.
When it dried, it was more like a light khaki color, instead of the familiar darker yellow we're used to from PVAs. The glue line just disappeared in the maple. The Gorilla Wood Glue is now quite welcome in our shop here at Popular Woodworking, where we will be testing it during the long term.
— Christopher Schwarz
Read other entries by Christopher Schwarz
Monday, January 28, 2008 12:58:15 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)
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Subscribe by Feb. 1 to Get Woodworking Magazine Spring 2008
 This Friday – February 1 – is the last day to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine to ensure you get the Spring 2008 issue delivered right to your door. Inside, the Spring issue, you’ll find plans and step-by-step instructions for building two Stickley Tabourets, as well as technique articles on understanding backsaws and learning how to use a handsaw properly for the best results. Plus, we investigate and test the various methods for cutting perfect circles and settle on the best technique. You’ll also find plans for a handsome circular cutting board, and discover how to apply glaze for the best results. Coming up in the Summer issue (on which we’re now hard at work!), we take a look at finger joints, and how to cut them better and cheaper – no $300+ jig or table saw needed – you can make your own jig out of plywood and get perfect results! Then, we use the finger joint to build an adaptation of a Shaker blanket chest and a sea chest with tapered sides. Plus, you’ll find technique articles on trimming end grain with both hand tools and power tools, and step-by-step instructions for producing an aged painted finish. You’ll also find a review of woodworking screws – and will likely be surprised by our conclusions (the most expensive aren’t the best). 
Make sure you don’t miss the Spring 2008 issue – click here to order your charter subscription to Woodworking Magazine by February 1.
— Megan Fitzpatrick
Read other entries by Megan Fitzpatrick
Monday, January 28, 2008 11:40:20 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)
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New Jacobs Chucks a Nice Upgrade for Cordless Drills
Like most woodworkers, we here at Popular Woodworking are fond of our cordless drill/drivers. So when two officials from Jacobs Chuck Manufacturing Co. showed up in our offices last week to show off a new aftermarket keyless chuck, they had our complete attention.
And it didn't hurt that the Jacobs officials also turned their little demonstration into a contest among the editors. First a bit about the new SoftGrip chucks, then I'll tell you about the contest.
The SoftGrip chuck replaces your stock chuck on your cordless drill, no matter if it's a 3/8" or 1/2" chuck, single-sleeve or double-sleeve. There are a number of advantages to the SoftGrip that are both obvious and unexpected.
The chuck is noticeably easier to close than a hard metal or smooth plastic chuck. And that's thanks to its soft, nubby, almost gummy-worm-like feel. You can really get a grip on the chuck to close it on the bit, which is great for anyone who suffers from arthritis or anything else that reduces his or her grip.
The soft grip isn’t just something molded onto the outside of the chuck. It's integrated into the structure of the chuck using a proprietary double-injection molding process, according to Mike Goodson, the core products development manager for Jacobs.
What that means for you and me is that the soft surface isn't going to peel off in use.
The SoftGrip can be lighter in weight than your stock chuck. For example, our stock Makita chuck weighs 9.2 ounces and the SoftGrip 3000 series chuck for that drill weighs 5.6 ounces. That weight difference is noticeable when you hold the drill and can also increase your drill's run-time by about 10 percent, according to James Hou, the product marketing manager.
However, the weight savings are mostly in the SoftGrip 3000 series of chucks, which uses more aluminum in its construction. The industrial version of the SoftGrip, the 6000 series, has more steel in its construction, which of course adds weight. Our stock Hitachi chuck weighs 9.3 ounces. The SoftGrip 6000 replacement weighs 10.2 ounces.
The only other consideration with the SoftGrip is that you have to get your old chuck off. Sometimes this is easy, and sometimes it is not, as I found out as I replaced the chucks on several drills. Here's the drill (sorry 'bout that): Remove the screw inside the chuck that secures it to the drill motor. It's a reverse-thread screw, so it's righty-loosey. Then you chuck a large Allen wrench into the jaws of the drill and knock the Allen wrench with a hammer to spin the chuck counterclockwise. This loosens the chuck and you then unscrew it off. Adding the SoftGrip is even easier (instructions are included). 
Clamping the drill to the bench made it much easier for one editor to remove the chuck.
I had no problems replacing the chuck on our Milwaukee and Hitachi drills. Our Makitas gave us a little bit of a fight, but after a few love taps the chuck came loose. But the Ridgid drill simply refused. Everyone tried it last week (we even fetched former Senior Editor David Thiel – a brute – to try it). This morning Senior Editor Robert W. Lang and I gave it another try.
We got the chuck off, along with the drill's clutch assembly, spilling ball bearings everywhere. Not good. Perhaps our chuck was torqued on by a particularly sprightly robot. Who knows? So do take care when removing your chuck.
Now about that contest: The Jacobs officials had each editor tighten a stock chuck and measured how much input torque he or she managed to apply to the chuck. Then each editor did the same test with a SoftGrip chuck and measured the input torque, which was much higher. That means the SoftGrip gives you a better grip for the same amount of work. Here are the before-and-after numbers – though I've changed the names to protect the editors' identities:
1. Editor with Ponytail: Stock chuck: 83.7 in./lbs. SoftGrip: 88 in./lbs.
2. Editor with Gloves On: Stock chuck: 83.1 in./lbs. SoftGrip: 175.2 in./lbs.
3. Editor with Fiery Hair and Temper: Stock chuck: 47 in./lbs. SoftGrip: 69.4 in./lbs.
4. Editor with "Little Girl Hands:" Stock chuck: 89.5 in./lbs. SoftGrip: 176.1 in./lbs.
Bottom line: We like these chucks and are now testing them for durability in the shop. The chucks are now available from Home Depot and Lowe's for about $25 to $32, depending on the model.
— Christopher Schwarz
Read other entries by Christopher Schwarz
Monday, January 28, 2008 11:06:32 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)
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Friday, January 25, 2008
When Novice Woodworkers Hit a Bad Patch...
I have a long-standing aversion to traditional psychiatric therapy – but I'm of mostly Irish descent, have red hair, and the temper that goes with it. So, to deal with aggression, I turn to DIY projects around the house (plus, I'm cheap, and refuse to set the thermostat above 60° despite our current 14° temperature in Cincinnati, so the work helps keep me warm).
My last project was redoing my 1970s-style bathroom (I posted a picture of the shower in an earlier entry here). But that's about finished (I still have some trim moulding to run, but I've managed to overlook that for some time now).
When I bought my 1895 house seven years ago, the first thing I planned to do was tear out the nasty green carpet in the living room and dejected-looking parquet in the dining room and hallway, and lay down new flooring. So finally, after seven years of kvetching about the ugly carpet and sad parquet, I got started on it last Sunday. I began in the dining room, and when I got down to the original pine flooring, I was very excited. As you can see in the picture at the top (along with the tiny Christmas tree I have yet to put away), it's actually in pretty good condition, and I was fairly certain it could be sanded, refinished and made to look right pretty. So I called my floor guy and made an appointment for him to come over and take a look (I hate sanding – my skinflint nature halts abruptly when it comes to doing things I despise).
Then, I got started in the living room, dutifully cutting the carpet into 4' pieces and rolling them per the specifications of our local trash collectors. Underneath was a layer of Masonite, so I pulled all that too, along with what seemed like thousands of nails. And then I hit a bad patch. A very bad patch – literally. But hey, I'm a novice woodworker – how hard can it be to tooth in replacement boards? Simply cut out the bad boards at the joists with a circ saw, clean up the ends of the cut with a chisel, and nail a proper patch into place.
Well, like most of my crazy undertakings, it turns out to be harder than I expected – mostly because I need 100-year-old boards, so they'll match. I've scavenged material from the third-floor closet, where I'll put in new replacement boards (no one will ever see those), and started to cut the patches to size. But, the third floor has only 3-1/4" boards, and the living room is a mix of 3-1/4" and 4-1/4". If anyone knows where I can find 25-35 board feet of 100-year-old pine floor boards, please let me know. And if anyone has the name of a good psychiatrist....
— Megan Fitzpatrick
p.s. For the record, I wore gloves. But there was no jointer in sight.
Read other entries by Megan Fitzpatrick
Friday, January 25, 2008 11:05:57 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)
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Wednesday, January 23, 2008
Don’t Use Push Pads or Sticks: Part 2
 If you haven’t read the first part of this discussion (including the comments), please do so. Click here to jump to that entry.
As I wrote in one of my comments on the previous entry, I knew this would be a hot topic for the blog. And, I was right! Finally, the smoke has cleared a bit, so it’s time to stoke the fires again. If you please, I’d like to step up on my soapbox.
I’m amazed at the level of fear that woodworkers have for their power tools. I would never spend my well-earned money for a machine that frightened me each time I used it. How could one comfortably get anything accomplished? Most of you do woodworking as a hobby, not for business. As a hobby, woodworking is supposed to be relaxing and guide you to your "happy place." If you’re worried about using the tools, you’re not going to arrive at your intended destination. Spend the time to understand the tools and what they can do.
One comment suggested that all power tools are inherently dangerous. Does that mean we should forgo power tools in favor of hand tools? Wait – hand tools can be dangerous as well. So, should we pass on using them, too? I believe that we’re told so often how dangerous woodworking machines are that we’ve reached a state of panic instead of simply being informed. These tools are no more dangerous than driving a car, being hooked to the Internet via a computer or walking alone on a dark street at night (think about it). You have to pay attention and not become complacent.
No tool is safe in the hands of someone who is not paying attention to what they’re doing. Operator error is the number one cause of accidents in the shop. We have to be responsible for ourselves.
Everything has a level of risk associated with it. How we choose to face that risk speaks volumes about our personalities.
Here are a number of points about the blog entry and the comments.
• Gloves should fit snug on your hand. I once bought an under-sized pair and found the fit perfect for use at the jointer (shown in the photo).
• As I stated, I use gloves only at the jointer – not at the planer or table saw, as some of the early responders hinted toward.
• I never, as seen in the photo both here and in the previous entry, allow my gloves or fingers to extend over the edges of the lumber I’m jointing. This is why I set limits to the width of boards I run in this manner.
• I cannot remember a time when I ran ¼” material over the jointer knives (nor can any of our other editors). To mill to that thickness, start with a 4/4 piece of stock, joint one face surface then move to a planer, band saw or table saw. If you find movement or twist after you’ve ripped to the desired thickness, you should finish with hand tools – or start over with a new board.
• In reference to the above, I use kiln-dried (KD) lumber that has stabilized in my shop. In using air-dried lumber you should expect some problems in this area. I’ve run into it with KD stock too. I also never use boards with loose knots (a problem noted in a comment).
• I’ve never had a piece of stock blow apart or jump from the jointer bed or become air-born. Perhaps this is a reflection of the lumber I’ve selected or, knowing the methods of work at the jointer (and each tool in the shop).
• Replace worn gloves just as you would a dull saw blade or a dull blade in a utility knife. Do you check these other tools regularly or simply awake one day with the thought in mind? Don’t become complacent.
• When I teach woodworkers how to use a jointer, I explain how things can go wrong using the machine, and how to use the push pads that come with the tools as well as designs for better devices (shown in Marc Adams’ article in the February 2008 issue of Popular Woodworking). Then I show them how I operate at the jointer with gloves. My students choose their preferred method based on their comfort levels.
I don’t want people to get hurt using woodworking tools. I also don’t want us to be afraid of these power tools, or any tools. We need woodworkers to have fun, complete successful projects and get the next generation involved in the craft.
–Glen D. Huey
Read other entries by Glen D. Huey
Wednesday, January 23, 2008 2:19:31 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)
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Saturday, January 19, 2008
New Podcast on ‘Workbenches’ at Woodworkers Resource
 If you aren’t yet completely saturated with information on workbenches, then get comfortable and read on. Craig Stevens at the Woodworkers Resource has just released an hour-long interview of me about my book, my work at the magazine and the craft in general.
The interview is in mp3 format (it’s about 55mb) and can be streamed from most internet browsers. You can even save it to your hard drive and load it on an iPod. You can read more about the interview and start streaming it here – but be sure to check out the rest of the excellent site, which includes video, Craig’s blog, a newsletter and an eBook of strategies for teaching woodworking to kids.
Craig conducted the interview on Jan. 13 while I was in my shop working some frustrating bookcases made from sub-standard plywood (that long national nightmare is almost at an end, by the way). During our chat we discussed:
• How I got interested (read: freakishly obsessed) with the topic of workbenches.
• What a typical workday is like at Popular Woodworking and Woodworking Magazine.
• My favorite workbench (which doesn’t exist as of yet).
• The types of furniture and projects I build at home.
• A little bit about the future of my Lost Art Press web site.
Craig did a great job with the interview and kept it casual yet highly focused (I have a tendency to blather; just ask my kids). So thanks to Craig and I hope you like the interview.
— Christopher Schwarz
Read other entries by Christopher Schwarz
Saturday, January 19, 2008 10:21:46 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)
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Thursday, January 17, 2008
A Proper Bench for Bob-Answers and Revisions
Because my last post generated a lot of response, I'm posting some more pictures of the bench I'm planning to build, and I'll answer some of the questions raised. A lot of the changes in the drawing below were in my head, but hadn't appeared in the drawing. The original post was a spur of the moment thing, motivated by Christopher Schwarz's response to a question on WoodCentral. My original plan was to build a near copy of a Nicholson bench, but as I thought about it, and saw the version that Chris built, I started making some changes.  The dog holes and quick-release vise have been moved closer to the front edge. I still need to work out the hole locations for the face vise. I've added a shelf between both sets of rails-simply adding cleats along the inside bottom edges of the rails and running planks across them. I think they'll work for keeping parts, clamps and other stuff handy without hiding them away, or interfering with the holdfasts. The tool trays are simple boxes that rest on another set of cleats along the bottom edge of the two top slabs. I'm planning on some stubby dowels in the cleats-holes in the top and bottom edges of the boxes will fit over the dowels to keep the boxes in place.  The bench is designed to be disassembled. The top pieces bolt down to
two end assemblies, the upper rails with the half lap dovetails will
bolt to the legs, and the lower rails are a wedged dovetail that I saw
on a drawing of an older Nicholson bench. If (or when) the rail to leg connections loosen, I can reach down and smack the wedge in to tighten things up. I'm curious to see often this will need to be done. With the wedge removed, the end of the rail lifts up and out of the leg. The top rail's face is flush with the leg, an important part of the "clamp to the front" scheme.  This view from below shows the "round thing". It's actually a cam screwed into the leg and turning it will raise or lower the planing stop. This is another detail I lifted from an old drawing, and I'm curious to see if it works. I expect there will be some fiddling with it to get it to work the way I think it should. Thanks for all the comments and questions, it's nice to get feedback from readers before a project as well as after. --Bob Lang
Read other entries by Robert W. Lang
Thursday, January 17, 2008 2:39:22 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)
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Wednesday, January 16, 2008
Don't Use Push Sticks or Pads
I hope you’ve had an opportunity to read the “Woodworking Essentials” column in the February 2008 issue of Popular Woodworking (#167). In it, Marc Adams discusses power jointers and a better way to work. I have to admit that I had a few issues with Marc’s article, but I’m not the safest guy in the shop. However, I did learn a number of ways to improve my time at the jointer.
One area in which I veer from Marc’s teachings is in the use of push sticks and push pads. Let me say that if you use these implements, he shows you exactly how they should be gripped and used. My statement is: I don’t use sticks and pads. I use gloves. There it is – deal with it.
OK, now that you’ve calmed down and the little hairs on the back of your neck have laid flat, let me explain what, why and how I use gloves. I only use them at the jointer and I remove them before moving to any other tools.
The gloves I use are gripping-style gloves that are used to grip lumber or other materials. I’ve used PVC dot-covered gloves, gloves that are palm coated with rubber and those with a honeycomb pattern.
To answer the "why," I feel I have more control when using gloves. Naturally, your hands read or feel the lumber as it moves over the jointer bed. You can feel where the board hits and skips the knives or if you need to speed or slow the travel to obtain a cleaner cut. When you add a push stick or pad to the process, you remove the ability to feel the board as well as access that information. Also, the gripping action of my gloves ensures that I’ll not slip while working. That’s not something I feel you can say when using the push pads (those always seem awkward to use). And imagine the ease of moving the board back for a second pass – no putting down the push stick or pad to then grab the board to move.
Next, let’s look at how I use gloves. Of course, you should never allow your hand to perch beyond the trailing edge of the board. So, don’t use your palm to push the lumber. The reason we’re tempted to hook our palm over the trailing edge of the board is to gain a hold and not allow the lumber to slip. But, if you’re using grip-type gloves, you can simply place your hands anywhere along the board – the gripping action holds firm and allows you to move the lumber with ease.
Even I have a limit to the glove scenario. I will not use gloves for jointing pieces that are less than 3" wide. Below that width I cannot position my hands or fingers properly to gain the added control. From 3" to 5" I use my glove-covered fingertips and the side of my hands for my hold. Above 5" in width I position my palms flat to the stock at go about my work.
Now before you send me a message or comment on how wrong I am because you’ve read “no gloves in the shop” all your woodworking life, buy a pair of gloves and give it a try. I’ll bet you’ll immediately notice the added control and the information gained from your work. But, if you try it and still think I’m wrong – fire away.
And if you happen to agree with my glove use, add your comment. We might start a new movement that will rock the foundation of safety in the woodshop.
–Glen D. Huey
Read other entries by Glen D. Huey
Wednesday, January 16, 2008 11:34:23 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)
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Tuesday, January 15, 2008
Tool Test: Combination Machines
 Combination machines that offer a jointer and planer in one unit are the talk on the Internet and most woodworking forums these days. We’ve written about the Grizzly and Jet machines in our AWFS coverage, listed the tool as a “Best New Tool of 2007” in our December issue (#166), and we continue to receive questions on a weekly, if not daily, basis. We've test-driven both, so, let’s take a look at the Grizzly G6033 and the Jet JJP-12 and do a little side-by-side comparison.
In my opinion, there are a number of areas to discuss such as the motor, the jointer's fence, the blade guard, the jointer's table and the complexity of the changeover operations (switching between the jointer and the planer).
In comparing the motors of the two machines, one glaring difference stands out – horsepower. A 5-horsepower, 220-volt motor powers the Grizzly tool while the Jet machine boasts a 3-horsepower, 220-volt motor. Each motor produces more than  5,000 rpm making the number of cuts per inch about equal; Grizzly has 15,102 cuts compared to Jets 16,500 cuts.
After the motors, the next most important feature is the fence. The best feature of the fence on the Jet machine is that it does not need to be removed in order to switch between the two operations. However, you do have to slide the fence fully to the rear of the tool in order to lift the jointer bed. The fence is aluminum and over-sized. Being attached in two locations made the fence difficult to adjust (see photo). We experienced racking as we slid the fence across the bed. Knobs and levers hold the fence in position and we felt there could have been more development based around the Jet fence.
The Grizzly fence is strong and easy to adjust. A simple flip of a lever allows you to rotate a knob and move the fence across the jointer bed. The bad news with the Grizzly design is having to remove the entire fence before converting the machine to planer mode. The fence slides off a dovetail way, which is easy enough, but storing the fence each time you use the planer is burdensome. Additionally, because the single tube holding the fence is long and sticks out the back of the machine, it isn’t possible to position the tool tight to a wall in the shop. In essence, the footprint of the tool grows. Overall, however, the Grizzly fence is much better than the Jet in our opinion.
The blades guards for these two machines come from different universes. The Grizzly has the more familiar (at least in the United States) pork-chop style guard. It swings out as the material, and your hand, moves past the cutterhead. The Jet features a design similar to European machines in which the rigid guard raises and lowers, allowing you to adjust to the thickness of your stock. This type guard helps keep your hands from ever passing over the blades. The staff prefers the Jet guard. It's an overall safer design.
When it comes to jointer tables, the Jet machine has a single, heavy table. The top is corrugated. And while that might be easier to keep flat during manufacturing, we felt it added a bit of drag to the workpiece. The jointer table is locked to the base with two catches, one at each end. Release the catches then lift the bed. After that, all you need to do is flip the dust-collection hood and you’re ready to plane your stock. Of course, that’s after you spin the hand wheel to raise the planer bed. (As with all combo machines, you have to lower the planer bed to convert back to the jointer and vice versa.)
The Grizzly has a split, smooth and polished jointer bed and that means an extra step in converting to planer mode. Unlock the catches and lift either the right- or left-side tables, then lift the other half. It doesn’t matter which half is lifted first, you still have to fiddle with the blade guard to finish the positioning of the jointer tables – the guard has to be maneuvered out of the way of the outfeed table.
Next, you’ll need to position the dust collection for the planer. The hood is flipped similar to the Jet but without any latch hook to keep it locked. Also, because this tool has a separate dust-collection port for the jointer, the attachment of the hose to the planer is tricky due to part of the jointer hood being in the way.
Both machines performed excellently in milling and regular operations (we have the G6034 spiral head Grizzly combination machine so a one-to-one comparison is not possible). And prices for the two competitors are relatively close. The Jet JJP-12 can be purchased for around $1,700 while the purchase price for the Grizzly G6033 is at $1,795 (the spiral cutterhead brings the price to $2,295).
Whether these types of machines are the answer to your shop needs is left up to you. I, for one, am quite fond of my dedicated jointer and planer tools. I’m not yet ready to experience changeover when switching operations. There are many times I appreciate leaving the setup on the tools in place. Returning to the jointer to mill another piece of stock is better if you don’t have to spend time carefully matching previous work.
– Glen D. Huey
Read other entries by Glen D. Huey
Tuesday, January 15, 2008 12:50:18 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)
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