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 Thursday, February 21, 2008
Cutting Corners-You Don't Need a Special Tool
I am planning to order a corner chisel, to use when I install hinges, and have
seen several styles. Which do you prefer?
That's a question I received from a reader, and the picture above shows the scenario he's asking about. The piece of wood has a routed mortise with rounded corners. The corners need to be square for a hinge to fit, and the chisel he asks about is supposed to make this easy. As much as I like tools, this is one that nobody really needs. It's a crutch that will actually keep you from developing a simple skill. A plain old chisel will remove the excess wood in the corner quickly and easily.
I routed the mortise deeper than normal to better show what happens with the chisel. The process works better if the layout lines are incised with a marking knife or gauge as well as a pencil. I recommend a mechanical pencil, but I don't recommend the girly color unless you have a teenage son who habitually picks up every pencil he sees.
The key to doing this is to use the back of the mortise cut by the router, or the incised layout lines as a guide to place and align the chisel. I line up the corner, then pivot the chisel back toward me so that it is against the back edge of the mortise.
Making the actual cut is as simple as pivoting the chisel back down into the corner. The fingers of my left hand hold it in place while I push down on the end with my right hand. This is a finesse move, not a forceful one, and depending on the hardness of the wood it may take a few swings to reach the desired depth.
Coming the other way, you often don't have enough of a straight edge to register the back of the chisel, but if the knife line is there, the edge of the chisel will fit. Again I start by putting the corner of the chisel on the corner of the mortise. When the back of the chisel is vertical, I plant my left hand to keep the chisel in line and push down with my right. This cut will offer more resistance, but a few seconds of pushing and wiggling make the cut.
A little bit of junk will be left in the corner, and it's easily removed with a paring cut or two. Working toward the end allows you to push harder with the bevel of the chisel down. The paring cut can also be made with the bevel up, working at a right angle to the direction shown in the picture. The caution with that method is to push gently. There isn't much wood behind the mortise, and an agressive cut can split out the back.
After you do this a few times it will become second nature, taking less time than it takes to describe the process. So save your money for the tools you really need.
--Bob Lang
Read other entries by Robert W. Lang
2/21/2008 3:29:57 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00) 
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Wednesday, February 20, 2008
Egg on My Face
For the current issue of Popular Woodworking magazine, we tested
Lithium-ion, battery-operated drills. In the article, we write that the
Ryobi kit (P813) has only a single battery included, which we didn’t like.
In fact, the kit has two batteries. I had set the second battery aside to
make sure we had an unused battery when it came time for testing. And then I
forgot about it.
Several readers told us the kits do, in fact come with two batteries. Ryobi
confirmed it. And we apologize.
– Glen D. Huey
Read other entries by Glen D. Huey
2/20/2008 11:55:37 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)
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Completely Floored
 It's a good thing my kitchen is capacious. In addition to the usual kitchen accoutrements and furniture, at the moment, it also contains a church pew (it usually resides in the front hall), a large cedar chest (which serves as my coffee table), a television and related electronics, a very heavy antique sideboard, a couch (off to the right side of the picture), the top of an old corner cupboard, two small bookshelves and the top of my dining room table (which, no doubt in violation of fire codes, blocks the back door). I've been eating out a lot.
The reason for this nightmare of a mess? When I bought my 1895 house seven years ago, I swore the first change I'd make was to remove the execrable kelly-green carpet in the living room and cheap, thoroughly worn parquet in the hall and dining room. I finally got around to it.
As I mentioned in my last entry on this little project, I had a fair amount of patching to do before the floors could be sanded and finished.
 As you can see in the picture at right, a former owner had cut a hole in the floor, dropped in some scrap wood, and left the ends of the floorboards unsupported (you can see the joists through the large gaps). There were several areas where similar "fixes" had been done, so I had to pull out the scrap wood and cut back to the joists to "tooth in" matching floorboards of alternating lengths. I borrowed Editor Chris Schwarz's Fein MultiMaster and went through several "E-Cut" blades as I made plunge cuts in the damaged boards at the middle of alternating joists. Then, using a cat's paw, I carefully removed the cut pieces. (The removal process was a great deal easier in the small hallway between the living room and kitchen. That entire area was severely water damaged, so everything had to come up – no need to be gentle.)
The living room floors are a mix of 3-1/4" and 4-1/4" boards. I was able to scavenge 3-1/4" boards from a large closet on my third floor, but I didn't have any 4-1/4" boards. I cut all the necessary 3-1/4" pieces to the correct lengths, and stacked them against the wall as I searched for 4-1/4" boards.
 I also had a number of knotholes to fill in, so Senior Editor Glen Huey taught me how to pattern rout, and kindly lent me his router inlay kit. It seemed fairly simple — you cut a pattern out of 1/4" ply just a bit larger than the area to patch. You secure the pattern around the hole, and with the collar and bushing attached to the router, use a 1/8" spiral upcut bit to cut what's basically a lip around the outside of the hole. Then, secure the pattern to your patch material, and with the bushing removed, rout out a matching plug, and use your table saw to slice off the plug. Smear glue around the lip of the hole and the back of the patch, and tap it in place.
Turns out, it's far easier on the workbench than on a dusty, splintery uneven floor. In situ, I had to secure the pattern with my feet (no tape would hold; my 120 pounds was, however, quite sufficient) and use the router while bending at the waist directly over it. Then, I had to do a little handwork with a chisel, as many of the holes were near the wall, and the router wouldn't reach. And who knew – 100-year-old pine smells vaguely like cat urine when you push it too slowly through the table saw blade.
I was done with all the inlay work and removal of damaged boards on Feb. 5. My "new" floorboards were scheduled to be delivered on Feb. 6. So I put plywood over massive holes, and waited. And fretted. And waited. You see, I'd found what I was told was 100-year-old salvaged white pine floorboards at an outfit in South Carolina. They shipped it to me via DHL (the shipping cost as much as the 60bf of floorboards), and DHL misplaced the shipment in Atlanta. Luckily, they found it again, but it didn't arrive until Feb. 8, and I was on a tight deadline. Al Lovell Hardwood Floors was coming early on Feb. 12 to sand, stain and finish. (Yeah, yeah – what can I say? I hate sanding.)
 I got about eight hours of sleep the entire weekend, but I got the replacement boards in place. As the entire floor is rather gappy, it wasn't particularly delicate or tight work. There were only a few boards from which I had to cut off the bottom of the groove side in order to lever the pieces in place. I used an 18-gauge nail gun to secure the "new" boards to the joist through the tongues and grooves, though I did have to face nail in a few places to keep them from creaking.
The cats and I moved to a neighbor's house for a week while Al and his crew took over. I had a bit of a scare when Al told me they were having trouble getting some old glue off the hallway floor, and I might want to think about installing tile there. But, they came back the next day well-stocked with #20-grit, and – thankfully – were able to sand through the gunk. Then, they sealed, stained (Minwax cherry) and put down several coats of polyurethane.
J.J., Cleo and I are back home now, and while the oil finish is still a bit redolent, I'm very happy with how the floors look – even with the gaps and a few pieces of yellow pine mixed in. And the cats are pleased to be reunited with their toys. Now, I just have to run 100 feet of baseboard....
– Megan Fitzpatrick
Read other entries by Megan Fitzpatrick
2/20/2008 11:02:03 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)
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Friday, February 15, 2008
Finishing Seminar with Bob Flexner
Popular Woodworking contributing editor and finishing guru Bob Flexner is leading a two-day finishing seminar June 21 & 22 at the Marc Adams School of Woodworking in Franklin, Ind. A few seats are still available.
This seminar will give you a thorough understanding of wood finishing, and help you overcome any finishing trepidation you might have. Through a combination of lecture and demonstration, Bob will show you how to properly use brushes and spray equipment, how to prepare your projects for successful finishing and how to choose the best finish for your work. Then, you’ll learn the best applications methods for a wide variety of finishes, including pigment, dye stains, shellac, polyurethane and more – plus you’ll find out how to overcome specific finishing challenges, and discover how keep your finishes looking new for years to come.
To register ($250), click here. For more information, visit the school’s web site at marcadams.com, or call (317) 535-4013 . — Megan Fitzpatrick
Read other entries by Megan Fitzpatrick
2/15/2008 3:37:58 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)
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Wednesday, February 13, 2008
Bikes of Wood
I’m not a big exerciser. I don’t like to lift weights, jog in the dark or ride bicycles for enjoyment. And, if you’ve had the opportunity to meet me at one of the woodworking shows in which I’ve participated, or if you’ve scrutinized the photos in my articles, you’re probably thinking, "it’s obvious he’s not into exercise." Maybe that’s why I’m on the larger side of average.
What’s all this have to do with a woodworking blog entry? In the past few days I had a web site brought to my attention – that of a builder who uses computer numerical control (CNC) machines to create bikes.
Normally, you would have to promise me a slice of homemade pie to get me to look at a site dealing with bikes. But this is a bit different. Founded by Ken Wheeler, Renovo Hardwood Bicycles of Portland, Ore., makes the frames out of wood.
Renovo’s information-rich web site mentions ash, Brazilian cherry and purpleheart as a few hardwoods that are great for bike frames. I also found a mention of vertical-grained fir being used. Why wood? The company expounds wood's ability to dampen vibrations and stand up to abuse better than more typical bike-building materials. And bikes built from wood are lightweight – weighing in at 16 – 19.5 pounds, depending on the size.
These bikes are so light due to the fact they’re hollow (you have to love CNC machining). The Renovo frame is computer designed and machined, then the frame components are assembled, waterproofed and finished with paint and environmentally responsible polyurethane.
This past weekend Renovo Hardwood Bicycles exhibited at the North American Handmade Bicycle Show (NAHBS). In perusing the many web sites connected with the show (I started at this archived blog at bikeportland.org), I haven’t found much mention of Renovo. Maybe the unveiling was less than stellar, but dig around and you’ll see the competition was tremendous.
One interesting tidbit I did find is that the fifth anniversary of the NAHBS (2009), is being held in Indianapolis. That’s a short drive from us here in Cincinnati. I’ll plan to make the show – but only to see where woodworking and bike building cohabit. Not because I’ll be into exercise.
If you were in attendance in Portland this year and you have further information on Renovo or the show, please add your comment below.
Since the posting of this entry, I received this message from Mr. Wheeler in response to a couple questions. Below is his message: "The Hand built show was our first public exposure, and the bikes were well received. We've been profiled on most bike web sites and are swamped with interest and orders. People like the wood concept, as well as the sustainability," writes Wheeler.
"Frame prices start at $2000 and depend on the type of rear end, wood, configuration, etc. We use select hardwoods whose mechanical properties meet our stiffness and hardness criteria.Typically Jatoba, Ash, Maple, Hickory, Black Walnut, Brazilian Walnut and others.We have used Douglas Fir which is stiff enough, but which also dents easily because it is so soft. The machining process is complex, requiring 6 separate operations, and the hand finishing and bonding is considerable. It takes up to a week to complete a frame."
– Glen D. Huey
Read other entries by Glen D. Huey
2/13/2008 2:25:23 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)
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Monday, February 11, 2008
How Do You Hold a Drill?
 The other day, Senior Editor Glen D. Huey came over to my desk with a small cordless drill/driver from Milwaukee Tools. Glen asked if I would try it out and write a review of it for an upcoming issue. I've been using similar driver/drills from Bosch for several months, and I like the concept of a small driver with good power and the new Lithium-ion battery technology. When I built custom cabinets on a daily basis, drilling holes and driving screws was probably the most repeated task. After lifting a relatively heavy 12v drill and driving tens of thousands of screws, my wrists have sustained some wear and tear, so for me, lighter is better.
Glen mentioned that he had heard one complaint about the new Milwaukee driver – that the forward and reverse switch was easy to bump inadvertently while using the drill. He picked up the drill and with his index finger on the trigger, showed me how the switch was up against his finger. I took the drill back, and held it the way I would in using it, with my middle finger on the trigger and my index finger extended. In the picture to the left, the switch is in between my two fingers. Glen mentioned that he never held a drill that way, and I told him I always hold one that way. Becoming curious about the difference, we did what we normally do when we have a disagreement about techniques. We got everyone in the office involved, handing people the drill and trying to get them to take sides.  Those of us who held the drill with the index finger extended compared it to the way a handsaw is held. Most saw totes are designed so that three fingers will fit, but four won't. This method offers several advantages that aren't immediately obvious until you try it. The wrist is more relaxed and less prone to stain. This more comfortable position leads to better control.  Japanese saws aren't really designed this way, but I find myself extending my finger anyway. The extended finger is, I think, one of the key elements to good hand/eye coordination. It makes a connection between the brain and the hand that moves the tool where you want it to go, and provides better feedback.  I hold a plane in a similar way, even though I'm not trying to hold it to a specific line. Extending the finger changes the angle between my hand and wrist, allowing for more finesse with a lighter touch. This is really an ingrained habit in me, so much so that I tend to grab everything this way. In the picture above I also have the index finger of my left hand extended. My only complaint about some of the planes we have in our shop is that there isn't an obvious place to rest the extended finger.  A drill isn't the only power tool I hold this way. I knew I extended my finger when using a jigsaw, as does contributing editor Troy Sexton, who recommended this technique in an article on using jigsaws in the October 2006 issue. If you click on the link, you'll see Troy holding the saw in a similar fashion. I decided to check through our photo archives to see other situations where I stick my finger out.  Here I am with a biscuit joiner, and I would be hard pressed to come up with an argument justifying the index finger position, other than it might be more comfortable to my wrist. Generally it is thought that the extended finger helps in aiming, and with certain tools that is obvious. In this case I think it may be just my habit.  Here is another example that surprised me, but this one I can rationalize. I'm cutting curves in the photo, carefully following a pencil line. I'm steering the work with my right hand, and the way I'm holding the wood gives a great deal of control without forcing the work through the blade. It's also easier to change my hand position as I near the end of the cut to keep my fingers out of the blade. If I had a death grip on the wood, and were pushing harder, the chances of damaging my digits at the end of the cut would be greater. So I've discovered I have a habit of holding things a certain way. It surprised me some that this is so pervasive, and it also surprised me that I may have a habit that isn't bad (as most of my habits are). This is a basic thing, something that most of us never think about. But if you struggle with controlling tools, or you tense up and your wrists get sore when you work, give it a try. Let me know how it works for you by leaving a comment.  I also hardly ever miss my mouth and pour coffee down the front of my shirt. At least when I'm holding the mug this way. -- Bob Lang
Read other entries by Robert W. Lang
2/11/2008 11:25:37 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)
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Wednesday, February 06, 2008
New Company Selling Kits to Build Infill Handplanes
Legacy Planeworks officially opened its doors on Tuesday and began selling kits that allow a home woodworker with no metalworking experience to build an English-style shoulder plane with naval brass sides, a steel sole and an exotic wood infill.
The company currently offers two sizes of shoulder planes – 1" wide and 3/4" wide – with prices starting at $425. And two more infill kits are on the drawing board: a chariot plane and a Norris-style A6 smoothing plane with a mechanical blade adjuster, says Marty Sivar, one of the owners of the company.
The kits have been in development for many months, Sivar says, and the parts are so finely machined that you can literally snap the metal dovetails in place when you take the parts out of the box.
"We wanted to offer a refined kit," Sivar said today in a phone interview, "not something you had to spend hours prepping the parts for assembly and cleaning them up."
The kits come with all the metal components you need (even the drill bits for boring the wood components). The home planemaker will need a ball pien hammer, a steel plate (or anvil) and a handful of files to complete the project, Sivar says. Legacy Planeworks also sells all the files required for planemaking on its web site: legacyplanes.com.
Some woodworkers might remember the kits that were sold by Shepherd Tool, a Canadian company run by two partners outside Toronto. After Shepherd's early success with its first Spiers-style smoothing plane kits, the company ran into some rocky times and shuttered its doors in early 2006 with a crowd of angry customers who were upset about a variety of problems, from not being able to get technical questions answered, kits that were missing parts, and credit cards that were charged with merchandise never shipped.
Sivar was one of those angry customers of Shepherd, and he said he and his partner, Ernie Barber, have set out to make sure that Legacy Planeworks is everything that Shepherd Tool was not.
Sivar says that the company's web site will not sell you a kit unless
there are more than two in stock, and that every order will be shipped
within two or three days of it being placed. Plus, Sivar says that
Legacy now has plenty of kits on hand to sell right away (one of them
is heading for our office for a full review, by the way). 
The kit components for a Legacy shoulder plane (both photos courtesy of Legacy Planeworks).
Every kit has a money-back guarantee and includes a 52-page instruction manual that includes many step photos that will walk the planemaker through the process. The manual, Sivar says, has taken a long time to develop and has been through many revisions to make the instructions as complete and foolproof as possible.
"I think our customers will be very satisfied from the minute they open the box," Sivar says.
Sivar has experience both as a woodworker and a metalworker. He started his career as a machinist and then went into the military. After a short stint as a corporate pilot, Sivar completed some marketing and management training and went to work for a petro-chemical company, where he is now an area manager and nearing retirement. Barber works in law enforcement and is an accomplished woodworker and carver who specializes in 18th-century furniture.
Sivar says all the plane components are going to be professionally made by other metalworking companies to Legacy's specifications; that will leave Sivar and Barber to focus on working with current customers and developing future products.
Personally, I'm quite pleased to see someone getting back into this business. I built several of the Shepherd kits, including a couple smoothing planes, a chariot plane, a shoulder plane and a panel plane. Despite the glitches (my kits were missing critical parts, too) the overall experience was fun and you learn a lot about plane mechanics by building one of the tools.
I think it's especially encouraging that Legacy has started out offering just the shoulder plane kit. Of all the kits I built, that one was the easiest to complete and will likely give would-be planemakers a good taste of the process.
In the coming weeks, I'll post photos of the new kit and my progress building it.
— Christopher Schwarz
Read other entries by Christopher Schwarz
2/6/2008 12:51:45 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)
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Tuesday, February 05, 2008
Auriou Rasp-makers to Re-open in France
 The venerable rasp-making company Auriou plans to reopen its factory in France this summer after being shuttered by a labor dispute, officials said. The closing of the company resulted in a purchasing frenzy of the rasps by woodworkers that continues to this day – one Auriou flat rasp sold for $600 on eBay today.
The new Auriou will be a smaller company that will focus on making tools for the woodworking and stone-working market, according to Mike Hancock of Classic Hand Tools in the United Kingdom. After the factory begins production, there are plans to begin exporting the rasps to the United States, Hancock wrote in an e-mail.
Hancock was part of a small group of investors that purchased the machinery and tooling from the Auriou factory when it was auctioned off. Michel Auriou, who ran the factory, will be the technical and workshop manager for the new company, according to Hancock.
In addition to the machinery and tooling, Hancock's company also purchased a selection of finished rasps and rifflers during the auction that he will be selling beginning on Monday, Feb. 11. To get a list of the tools (mostly rifflers) send an e-mail to sales@classichandtools.co.uk and ask for the "rasps & riffler list."
— Christopher Schwarz
Read other entries by Christopher Schwarz
2/5/2008 9:03:03 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)
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Monday, February 04, 2008
Plunge-cut Saws Available in Europe
 Has Festool started something big? Is it a new revolution in woodworking? No, I’m not referring to the Domino. That’s old news. Today, I’m writing about Plunge Cut Saws – saws that have a riving knife and so much more.
When the Popular Woodworking team was in Las Vegas for AWFS (Association of Woodworking & Furnishings Suppliers®), we wrote about the invasion of riving knives. We specifically were discussing table saws. But, handheld circular plunge-cut saws fit the bill too.
At AWFS, we spent a great evening with Delta/Porter-Cable. After dinner and entertainment, we were allowed to look at and touch the new tools on display, and talk with company employees about them; these were tools not released at the time. One such tool was a plunge-cut saw. I held the tool in my hands and felt the balance, and looked at the plunge action of the blade. It was very similar to Festool’s TS55EQ saw and the plan was to release the new Delta/Porter-Cable version in Europe sometime in early 2008.
A few weeks ago, I had the opportunity to use a TS55EQ (325 British pounds, US$481) for some work around my shop at home. I was overwhelmed at the ability of the saw. The tool runs on a track which made my cuts on plywood dead straight, and the finish cut was smooth and clean. I was so impressed that I assembled my information and thoughts into a Tool Test column for the April 2008 issue of Popular Woodworking (due to ship to subscribers this week and on sale at newsstands Feb. 26.) I highly recommend the TS55EQ.
Today, it was brought to my attention that a couple other companies have released or are releasing a handheld plunge-cut saw to the market – the European market. Makita has a plunge-type saw out in the U.K. while a DeWalt version is “Coming Soon.” Are they worth the investment? And, how do they stack up to a Festool saw?
Makita has released the SP6000K. It’s a 165 mm plunge saw that boasts a 1300-watt motor and a 55mm (2-1/8") depth of cut at 90º. The SP6000K1 includes a 1.4m (nearly 55") guide rail and is priced at 239 British pounds (US$354). Click here for information.
DeWalt ramps up the choices of the plunge-cut saw to work with other tools in the DeWalt line. You can get a plunge-cut saw (DC351KL) with a 28v Li-ion battery (DeWalt’s nano technology battery) an 18v battery comparable with Dewalt’s XRP line (DC352KB) or you can revert back to the old days and purchase a corded version (DWS520K). The only pricing I could find was for the DC351KL. DeWalt’s saw is priced at 509.79 British pounds (US$756.00). Click here for details.
We couldn’t get any information about possible U.S. release dates or how sales are in the U.K. market. If and/or when we get more news, we’ll let you know. In the meantime, check out the new saws. Maybe your next circular saw should be one with a riving knife that runs on a track. I hope each company has a released planned for the U.S. market – I can’t wait to get hold of each of these new saws.
What do you think? Is this saw strictly for plywood and sheet goods? Or, can you see using this set-up for all your circular-saw needs. Post a comment, but keep your eyes open for more information.
–Glen D. Huey
Read other entries by Glen D. Huey
2/4/2008 2:49:39 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)
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Monday, January 28, 2008
New PVA Glue from The Gorilla Glue Co.
Gorilla Glue will release a new polyvinyl acetate glue this month that is designed to compete directly with the woodworking mainstays, Titebond and ProBond glues. The new Gorilla Wood Glue is a water-resistant species, looks like a white glue and boasts a shorter clamping time than its competitors.
I've been using the glue for a couple months now, and have been generally impressed with both the glue and the bottle, which is an often-overlooked detail.
Here are some of the important stats on the glue:
• It is called a "Type II" adhesive, which means it's water-resistant, but not waterproof. Build kitchen cabinets from it, but not a dock at the lake.
• It has a stated clamping time of 20 minutes, which is 10 minutes less than the competition. If you are in a hurry or in a professional environment, this can be a big plus. We like to keep our assemblies in the clamps as long as possible.
• The color of the Gorilla Wood Glue is white, which is nice when dealing with gluing light-colored woods.
• The viscosity is about the same as its water-resistant competition.
• The glue nozzle is almost identical to that on Titebond's product. We're fond of this nozzle because it will stay clear of dried glue for a long time (if you remember to close the nozzle after each use).
• The glue will be available in 8 oz. (expect a retail price of $3.99) and 18 oz. (about $5.99) sizes.
After some small-scale tests in December, I used the Gorilla Glue last week on five maple panels I am gluing up for a blanket chest project. The glue lays out nicely like a quality PVA should. It cleaned up easily with water and set up fairly fast – this is a big asset when gluing up lots of panels.
When it dried, it was more like a light khaki color, instead of the familiar darker yellow we're used to from PVAs. The glue line just disappeared in the maple. The Gorilla Wood Glue is now quite welcome in our shop here at Popular Woodworking, where we will be testing it during the long term.
— Christopher Schwarz
Read other entries by Christopher Schwarz
1/28/2008 12:58:15 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)
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Subscribe by Feb. 1 to Get Woodworking Magazine Spring 2008
 This Friday – February 1 – is the last day to subscribe to Woodworking Magazine to ensure you get the Spring 2008 issue delivered right to your door. Inside, the Spring issue, you’ll find plans and step-by-step instructions for building two Stickley Tabourets, as well as technique articles on understanding backsaws and learning how to use a handsaw properly for the best results. Plus, we investigate and test the various methods for cutting perfect circles and settle on the best technique. You’ll also find plans for a handsome circular cutting board, and discover how to apply glaze for the best results. Coming up in the Summer issue (on which we’re now hard at work!), we take a look at finger joints, and how to cut them better and cheaper – no $300+ jig or table saw needed – you can make your own jig out of plywood and get perfect results! Then, we use the finger joint to build an adaptation of a Shaker blanket chest and a sea chest with tapered sides. Plus, you’ll find technique articles on trimming end grain with both hand tools and power tools, and step-by-step instructions for producing an aged painted finish. You’ll also find a review of woodworking screws – and will likely be surprised by our conclusions (the most expensive aren’t the best). 
Make sure you don’t miss the Spring 2008 issue – click here to order your charter subscription to Woodworking Magazine by February 1.
— Megan Fitzpatrick
Read other entries by Megan Fitzpatrick
1/28/2008 11:40:20 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)
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New Jacobs Chucks a Nice Upgrade for Cordless Drills
Like most woodworkers, we here at Popular Woodworking are fond of our cordless drill/drivers. So when two officials from Jacobs Chuck Manufacturing Co. showed up in our offices last week to show off a new aftermarket keyless chuck, they had our complete attention.
And it didn't hurt that the Jacobs officials also turned their little demonstration into a contest among the editors. First a bit about the new SoftGrip chucks, then I'll tell you about the contest.
The SoftGrip chuck replaces your stock chuck on your cordless drill, no matter if it's a 3/8" or 1/2" chuck, single-sleeve or double-sleeve. There are a number of advantages to the SoftGrip that are both obvious and unexpected.
The chuck is noticeably easier to close than a hard metal or smooth plastic chuck. And that's thanks to its soft, nubby, almost gummy-worm-like feel. You can really get a grip on the chuck to close it on the bit, which is great for anyone who suffers from arthritis or anything else that reduces his or her grip.
The soft grip isn’t just something molded onto the outside of the chuck. It's integrated into the structure of the chuck using a proprietary double-injection molding process, according to Mike Goodson, the core products development manager for Jacobs.
What that means for you and me is that the soft surface isn't going to peel off in use.
The SoftGrip can be lighter in weight than your stock chuck. For example, our stock Makita chuck weighs 9.2 ounces and the SoftGrip 3000 series chuck for that drill weighs 5.6 ounces. That weight difference is noticeable when you hold the drill and can also increase your drill's run-time by about 10 percent, according to James Hou, the product marketing manager.
However, the weight savings are mostly in the SoftGrip 3000 series of chucks, which uses more aluminum in its construction. The industrial version of the SoftGrip, the 6000 series, has more steel in its construction, which of course adds weight. Our stock Hitachi chuck weighs 9.3 ounces. The SoftGrip 6000 replacement weighs 10.2 ounces.
The only other consideration with the SoftGrip is that you have to get your old chuck off. Sometimes this is easy, and sometimes it is not, as I found out as I replaced the chucks on several drills. Here's the drill (sorry 'bout that): Remove the screw inside the chuck that secures it to the drill motor. It's a reverse-thread screw, so it's righty-loosey. Then you chuck a large Allen wrench into the jaws of the drill and knock the Allen wrench with a hammer to spin the chuck counterclockwise. This loosens the chuck and you then unscrew it off. Adding the SoftGrip is even easier (instructions are included). 
Clamping the drill to the bench made it much easier for one editor to remove the chuck.
I had no problems replacing the chuck on our Milwaukee and Hitachi drills. Our Makitas gave us a little bit of a fight, but after a few love taps the chuck came loose. But the Ridgid drill simply refused. Everyone tried it last week (we even fetched former Senior Editor David Thiel – a brute – to try it). This morning Senior Editor Robert W. Lang and I gave it another try.
We got the chuck off, along with the drill's clutch assembly, spilling ball bearings everywhere. Not good. Perhaps our chuck was torqued on by a particularly sprightly robot. Who knows? So do take care when removing your chuck.
Now about that contest: The Jacobs officials had each editor tighten a stock chuck and measured how much input torque he or she managed to apply to the chuck. Then each editor did the same test with a SoftGrip chuck and measured the input torque, which was much higher. That means the SoftGrip gives you a better grip for the same amount of work. Here are the before-and-after numbers – though I've changed the names to protect the editors' identities:
1. Editor with Ponytail: Stock chuck: 83.7 in./lbs. SoftGrip: 88 in./lbs.
2. Editor with Gloves On: Stock chuck: 83.1 in./lbs. SoftGrip: 175.2 in./lbs.
3. Editor with Fiery Hair and Temper: Stock chuck: 47 in./lbs. SoftGrip: 69.4 in./lbs.
4. Editor with "Little Girl Hands:" Stock chuck: 89.5 in./lbs. SoftGrip: 176.1 in./lbs.
Bottom line: We like these chucks and are now testing them for durability in the shop. The chucks are now available from Home Depot and Lowe's for about $25 to $32, depending on the model.
— Christopher Schwarz
Read other entries by Christopher Schwarz
1/28/2008 11:06:32 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)
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