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# Tuesday, April 01, 2008
The Greatest Woodworking Show on Earth

A few years ago, I attended the Woodworkers Showcase show in Saratoga Springs, N.Y., and I was amazed. It was the most perfect woodworking show I had ever attended. Why? Because of four things.

1. The free classes and seminars were extraordinary. That year I learned more about cold-bending from Jere Osgood and furniture design from Garrett Hack in a single day than I'd learned by reading (too many) books.

2. An amazing display of furniture, turnings and other objects (even a canoe!) that were built by the members of the club who put on the show, the Northeastern Woodworker's Association.

3. Hands-on displays and demonstrations of jigs, fixtures, carving and sash-making that were ongoing the entire weekend.

4. And, of course, booths and booths of vendors selling new equipment and vintage tools.

And amazingly, admission for all this was just $7 for adults.

This year, I was asked to demonstrate at the Woodworkers Showcase – a huge honor – on April 5 and 6. It's this coming weekend at the Saratoga Springs City Center. Click here for information on the event.

I'll be demonstrating the scraper sharpening technique I developed after plumbing the historical record, and I'll be showing off the three kinds of handsaw cuts that I discuss in the newest issue of Woodworking Magazine.

In addition to my demonstrations, you can also catch demos from chip-carver Wayne Barton, box-maker and instructor Doug Stowe (ask him about Sloyd if you see him) and Peter Korn, who runs the Center for Furniture Craftsmanship and is a talented woodworker. Plus, there will be demonstrations from members of the club on every topic imaginable, from marquetry to miniatures to turning to rustic furniture construction.

When I'm not teaching, I'll be in a booth selling a few books, magazines and DVDs. If you're at the show, do stop by and say hello.

If you live anywhere in the northeast, this is a show that shouldn't be missed. People drive from all over the eastern seaboard to attend the Woodworkers Showcase. It's worth it (heck I flew up from Cincinnati when I first attended).

Hope to see you there.

— Christopher Schwarz


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Tuesday, April 01, 2008 1:56:11 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [2] 
# Monday, March 31, 2008
Shaker Village of Pleasant Hill

The restored Shaker Village of Pleasant Hill, Kentucky, has been on my list of places to visit for a long time. It is only a two-hour drive south of Cincinnati, and I can't count the number of times I've driven through the area and thought: "next time, we'll stop." This past weekend we made a special trip, and stayed overnight.


Pleasant Hill was one of the largest of the western Shaker communities, and the only one remaining that is open to the public in this part of the country. I had been to the Shaker Museum in Chatham, New York, and the Hancock Shaker Village in Massachusetts. Several of the pieces from Pleasant Hill have been featured in Popular Woodworking; most recently a firewood box was our "I Can Do That" project in our February 2008 issue. I saw three or four variations in different locations.


One of the unique aspects of Pleasant Hill is that a good portion of the property is an inn, with a wonderful restaurant and rooms available in the original buildings. I've been to a lot of museums and restorations, but I've never spent the night in one. It added immensely to the experience, giving us a much better feel for what life would have been like for the community members. (It also gave us some much needed peace and quiet.)


Our room was next to one of the most famous features of the village, the twin spiral staircase in the Trustee's Office. As a museum visitor, I would have gone up once or twice and taken a good look, but as a guest I enjoyed the stairs every time I left our room. It truly is an amazing piece of woodworking; there are actually two stairways on either side of a central hallway. Each side is two flights, twisting up to the third floor where a skylight provides both light and the feeling that these stairs lead to heaven.


Most monumental stairways are full of intricate details such as carved newel posts and turned balusters. The details in the stair are incredibly simple, yet the combination of shapes, and the subtle changes as the stairs turn and rise, make this an elegant statement of design and craftsmanship.

So if you're ever driving through Kentucky, make it a point to stop and enjoy as much time as you can spare. And don't leave without trying the lemon pie.

— Bob Lang


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Monday, March 31, 2008 11:47:52 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [5] 
# Tuesday, March 25, 2008
Bookcase Design Challenge Grand Prize

The time has come to let the cat out of the bag. You’ve waited an entire week to find out about the LumberJocks/Popular Woodworking magazine Challenge Grand Prize – a week I hope you’ve spent eyeing bookcase designs, including those linked to in the previous newsletter (click here) where we announced the challenge. We boasted that neither Popular Woodworking, nor any other woodworking magazine that we know of, has ever offered this prize before. You can be part of this first-ever woodworking event. Here it is.

The winning original design will be published in Popular Woodworking magazine. We’re talking a full-out article, not just photos of the best design shown in a gallery. You’ll become a published contributing author – a fully paid contributing author – with your own byline.

We’ll work with you to develop step-by-step photos with captions as well as an opening photo for your story. (If we need to arrange for a photographer to come to your shop and take that shot, we will.) We will be with you at every step of the way.

We hope this will sweeten the pot, but we also don’t want to scare anyone from the contest. So, if you want to design but not necessarily build your bookcase, we’ll take on the project here in the Popular Woodworking shop and write the article based on your input. It’s going to be your choice. Either way you choose, your name will be on the article. The entire woodworking community will see, read and probably build your bookcase design.

This may open up a completely new path to meander down, or you may be happy just to get your design and name in front of thousands of fellow woodworkers.

To get a complete set of rules, how to post your entry and to become a LumberJock (remember you have to be a LumberJock member to enter the contest) click here.

Glen D. Huey


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Tuesday, March 25, 2008 12:56:48 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [1] 
# Monday, March 24, 2008
Woodwork Joints by Charles Hayward
A Weekend With an Old Friend

Sometimes a search for one thing leads to the discovery of something more interesting and a change of plans. Friday night I was looking for a book and as I was going through my shelves I came across a small volume I hadn’t seen in a while. Woodwork Joints, by Charles H. Hayward had been tucked out of sight between two larger books and I pulled it out and flipped through a few pages. It was like bumping into an old friend and forgetting the task at hand to spend some time catching up. I spent several hours over the weekend going through the book, and remembered why it is one of my favorites.

The first thing I like about it is that there is absolutely no fluff; no introductory chapters on buying tools or setting up shop. Hayward dives right into common and not-so-common joints – how to cut and fit them with hand tools, what they ought to be like when you’re done, and what can go wrong. Except for the use of Britishisms such as "cramp" instead of "clamp," the writing style is clear and straightforward, and there is more useful information per page in this book than in any other woodworking book ever written.

In addition to the text, the book is amply illustrated with both line drawings and black & white photos. The photos look dated because this book is rather old (and unfortunately out of print) but they clearly show how to hold the work and how to hold the tools. The tools and bench accessories shown in the photos are well worn – evidence that the advice given is based on experience. And the drawings are worth several thousand words apiece.

But my favorite thing about this book is the way the author uses the language. It reminds me a lot of getting instruction from my Scottish-born grandfather. In an understated way, Hayward lets you know when you should be able to figure something out or when you are behaving like a rookie. He gives you the choice of the techniques of the beginner, the competent but in a hurry carpenter, and the ideal of the “skilled worker” or “man of the trade.” He talks about “complications” that can arise when you aren’t careful and the “detriment to the saw” if you cut into a hidden screw. This all looks like step-by-step technical instruction, but it really is training to think like a cabinetmaker.

So here’s a technical book that improved the way I think, not just about woodworking but problem solving and processes in general. And Hayward goes even one step  further in several places. When discussing problems with tenons, he gives an example noting that a particular problem is found: “in the work of a man who lacks confidence. He doubts his ability to cut his shoulders square, and rather than risk a joint which will not pull together owing to shoulders which are fuller at the tenon than at the surface, he deliberately undercuts them.”  

Now we’re talking about character, and how a simple act like cutting a tenon can both reveal and develop traits such as reasoned risk-taking and good judgment. For me, there is a lot more to woodworking than making stuff, and what I learn about myself from the process is in the end more important than what I learn about the process. I’ve made tenons that look like the ones in the drawing, and I’ve learned to examine what went wrong in order to get it right the next time. Going back to this book one more time made me realize how much I learned from this book above and beyond fitting this piece of wood to that one. While this book is out of print, used copies can be found. However, mine is not for sale.

--Bob Lang



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Monday, March 24, 2008 12:55:09 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [6] 
# Monday, March 17, 2008
Sharpening System in a Box

Norton IM83 Portable Waterstone Sharpening System


I'm not the most organized person in the world. In fact, I'm without argument the messiest person in our office and shop. I do OK if there is a system in place that I can follow without thinking too much about it. But if there isn't a place for everything, then I just put everything all over the place. This is one of the reasons I like the Norton IM83 Sharpening Set. In one case, which is just a bit larger than a lunchbox, is everything I need to keep my edge tools honed.

In the top of the box is a three-sided gizmo that holds three waterstones: #1000, #4000, and #8000 grit. It is designed to hold two of the stones in a bath of water, and the third in position for use. As I move up through the grits, rotating the holder brings the next stone into position, soaked and ready to use. I don't have room for a dedicated sharpening station, or the discipline to keep myself from piling stuff on one if I had it, so this makes it easy to contain the mess when it's time to hone, and it only takes a minute to pack it all back up.

In the bottom of the box is a second storage compartment where a flattening stone lives, and there is space down there for a few rags and other sharpening sundries. Also included in the set is a DVD on techniques for sharpening freehand. I learned to sharpen before workable jigs to hold the chisels or plane irons were readily available, and I have a philosophical bias to sharpening freehand. My argument is this: To use edge tools effectively you need to develop a feel for the relationship between your hands, the work and the tool. Sharpening is a great way to develop this feel, although I will admit it took time to learn and sometimes I have a bad day when a jig might be helpful.

One of the things I like about the Norton waterstones is that they are abrasive enough to cut quickly, but soft enough to provide useful feedback while sharpening. Some people may find the #4000- and #8000-grit stones to be too soft; it is possible to poke a corner of the tool into the stone. When I learned to sharpen, I was taught to try and take a slice off the stone with the tool. In the six months that I've been using these stones, I've learned to be less heavy-handed and apply more pressure coming back than going forward. I start to sharpen by putting the primary bevel flat on the stone.

I then raise the handle of the tool a bit to make the secondary bevel a few degrees steeper. I lock my wrists and move the edge back and forth in as straight a line as I can. Swinging with my shoulders while keeping my elbows and wrists locked works for me. I'm not picky about the exact angles involved; I've found if I'm in the neighborhood, the tool will work. With the Norton waterstones, if I'm applying too much pressure to one side or if I'm at too steep of an angle, I'll remove a tiny divot from the surface of the stone. This annoyed me at first, but now I feel that it is making me a better sharpener.

Bringing the stones back to a flat surface is quick work with the flattening stone, and the stones are 1" thick. It would take a truly obsessive sharpener a long time to wear one out, but it is possible. My conclusion is that Norton has reached a good compromise with the composition of these stones. They cut fast, leave a keen edge and can be easily maintained. Having the complete set in one handy box that fits in a small space is a plus. The kit sells for around $200 from many retailers, and is also available with oilstones instead of waterstones. I think it's an excellent solution for sharpening. And if you need the jig, there's room to store it in the bottom of the box.

-- Bob Lang


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Monday, March 17, 2008 3:20:42 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [4] 
# Wednesday, March 12, 2008
Tape Rules or Tape Measures


Fat Max came into our office today. Now before you start giving me grief about a derogatory comment projected at a fellow worker, let me explain that Fat Max is a product category produced by Stanley (The Stanley Works, New Britain, CT) and the product that arrived was a 40'-tape rule.

I grew up in the home-building industry, so tape measures are something that I’ve worked with for a long time. I continue to use this tool in my workshop today – I do most of my rough cutting layout work (which does not require spot-on accuracy) with tape measures. There are more than a couple tape measures deposited around the shop.

The Fat Max 40' tape measure, as the name implies, is fat. Managing Editor Megan Fitzpatrick scoffed at the idea of her using the tape due to its size. She could barely maneuver her thumb to the lock while keeping a grip on the case. Even in my medium-size hand, the tape measure is huge.

So, other than its size, what’s different about a 40' Fat Max Tape Measure? According to Stanley, this tape is the world’s longest self-retracting tape rule, it’s 1-1/4"-wide and has a standout of 11'. Standout is the length of tape that is extended out of the case before the metal tape buckles under its own weight. (At 11' you can nearly reach the cubicle across the isle for a game of tag – not that I tried that.)

This tape rule is divided into 1/16" scale and has fine-line markings. In addition, Stanley suggests that you’ll gain twice the average tape rule life with a Fat Max due to a 3M Blade Armor bonded coating. The steel rule is covered with a layer of Mylar then a layer of Blade Armor, an industrial thermoplastic coating.

Here are some interesting facts about tape rules.

•    The play in the hook end of the rule is there for a reason. The slight movement is equal to the thickness of the hook to achieve accurate results whether you’re measuring with the hook pressed against the surface or you hook the end as is normal usage.
•    There are red squares, or numbers, printed in red, every 16". This is a house-framing notion because studs in walls and many floor joists are set with that spacing.
•    (Here’s one I had to research.) There are black diamonds – sometimes referred to as black trusses – every 19.2". This corresponds to layout for some engineered lumber where architects can save a buck or two by increasing the spacing for roof trusses or floor joists where building codes allow.

Interestingly, and not by coincidence, 16" and 19.2" intervals are divisible into 8'-0" or 96", which is the standard size for sheet goods used in home construction and most woodworking plywood.

So, there are five 19.2" units in 8'. That ratio (8/5) equals 1.6 or very near the "golden ratio" which is 1.618.  Are we challenged to build properly designed furniture with tape rules? Not me. As I stated above, I use tape measures for roughing out lumber before it’s milled to thickness and width. But, any trimming to final working size is measured with a reliable, accurate steel rule.

Do you use a tape rule in the shop and if so, how?

– Glen D. Huey


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Wednesday, March 12, 2008 2:50:07 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [16] 
# Friday, March 07, 2008
A Better Bandage for Bad Situations

We just received a sample of a new product that I am not at all eager to test.

It's a KytoStat Bandage, which is an interesting piece of new medical technology designed to quickly stop bleeding. The pad of the 1" x 4" bandage is made from chitosan, which is a naturally occurring compound found in shrimp shells, according to HemCon, the manufacturer. (People with shellfish allergies can use the product, officials said.)

When the bandage is applied to a bleeding wound, the chitosan attracts red blood cells and pulls them into the dressing. Blood makes the pad extremely sticky, and it then seals the wound.

The bandage has several advantages for use in the woodshop, according to a company spokesman. The KytoStat can eliminate trips to the emergency room for those cases where you are not sure if you need to get stitches or not. Also, if the wound is serious, the KytoStat will stop bleeding so you can get to the emergency room without unnecessary blood loss. Also, the bandage is ideal for woodworkers who are taking daily doses of aspirin or blood-thinning medication.

The KytoStat bandage was developed by HemCon after the company had great success with the same technology in a military bandage that is currently in use in Iraq and Afghanistan. The product was approved by the FDA in 2003 and now is carried by every member of the U.S. Army in Iraq and Afghanistan.

The bandages are available at some Albertsons supermarkets and through drugstore.com. A package of three costs $14.99.

If the product works as advertised, it's a small price to pay to avoid a trip to the emergency room for typical woodshop cuts. The last time I went to the emergency room for a woodshop injury it was for a cut where I was really on the fence about whether I needed stitches. (For the record, I was sharpening a chisel using a student's honing guide. The guide failed to hold the chisel, which slipped out and cut my finger.)

In the end, that wound was less than 3/4" long, but it was difficult to stop the bleeding with simple pressure. Three hours (and three stitches) later, I was back in the shop. My hope is that the KytoStat could prevent drives like this to the urgent care center.

Because we don't have any volunteers here at the magazine to test the product today, however, I'm afraid you'll have to just wait for a field test.

— Christopher Schwarz


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Friday, March 07, 2008 9:49:44 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [10] 
# Tuesday, March 04, 2008
Corded or Cordless, Which is More Green


We get a lot of woodworking-related questions from readers. Most deal with articles published in recent issues of Popular Woodworking and Woodworking Magazine. But often, we’ll be asked about projects from old issues – some from as far back as the early 1990s. And sometimes, we’ll receive ideas for future articles and other worthy matters.

This past month I received a question about power tools, specifically drills. It seems that new drills, whether it’s a drill driver, impact driver, compact driver or some other type of driver, are constantly being improved upon and released by manufacturers. The latest drill improvement is in battery power, moving from Nickel-cadmium and Nickel-Metal hydride to Lithium-ion power packs. Many drills feature 18-volt Lithium-ion batteries, but it’s not uncommon to see 24v or 36v batteries stoking hand tools.

With all the focus in today’s world on being "green," one reader wondered if a battery-powered drill or an old-fashioned corded drill was better for our planet – which power source uses less energy. Put another way, it takes a certain amount of energy to charge a battery. That battery can, for the sake of discussion, drive 100 screws. If you then drove 100 identical screws using a corded drill, would you use more or less energy than it took to charge the battery?  

Interesting question – and something I couldn’t answer, but I knew where to turn. I contacted Bryan Wright of Strata-G Communications (the company represents Bosch Power Tools.) He sent the question to Edwin Bender at Bosch – he's the group product manager for cordless tools.

Bender says that every application or operation requires a certain amount of power, measured in watts. And if you could hold all other variables constant, corded and cordless drills use roughly the same power.

According to Bender, "If you dig deeper and want to split hairs, a corded tool should typically be a little more efficient and therefore use less energy because it works off a higher voltage (120v or 220v) than cordless (12v-36v)." He goes on to say, "If you hold the power constant (for one application) then a lower voltage means you draw more current."

Bottom line: It’s nearly impossible to hold the variables constant and any variations would be so small that a simple answer is that both cordless and corded tools consume almost the same amount power. So using Lithium-ion power sources does not hurt the earth any more than a corded tool – just dispose of any old batteries properly. That doesn’t mean in a landfill.

Now, here's my question for you. Do you prefer to use cordless or corded tools? Do you find situations where it's best to use both? Leave a comment to let us know.

– Glen D. Huey


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Tuesday, March 04, 2008 12:59:22 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [23] 
# Friday, February 29, 2008
Of Interest to Arts & Crafts Fans

The other day I was e-mailing back and forth with a Japanese guitarist who was kind enough to share some of his arrangements with my son. He mentioned how interesting it was that the internet has made it possible to make friends with people from different parts of the world and different walks of life-all that's needed is a common interest. It reminded me of how fortunate I feel to be part of a growing community. I thought I would share some of the work and websites of people I've met online who share an interest in Arts & Crafts furniture. Some of these I've met in person and the rest I look forward to meeting. A few of these will be familiar to our readers, because they've written articles for Popular Woodworking.

This dining room set, based on the Greene & Greene originals in the Gamble house was made by Darrell Peart. Darrell Peart wrote an article for our November 2007 issue about an unusual table he found while researching his book Greene & Greene: Design Elements for the Workshop. In addition to his writing and full-time furnituremaking, Darrell started a Yahoo! discussion group about Greene and Greene furniture. This group is an amazing resource, with an extremely knowledgeable membership. Darrel has just moved to a new shop, and you can take a 360-degree tour of it here.


I met David Mathias when he purchased a set of plans from my website and had some questions about building a bow arm Morris chair. I asked him to send some pictures when he was finished, and I was impressed with his work. David has had two articles published in Popular Woodworking, a Greene & Greene inspired chest in the April 2008 issue and Greene and Greene drawer construction in the February 2007 issue. David maintains a blog and we're in the planning stages of some future articles on Greene and Greene furniture that will appear later this year.

One of my favorite Arts & Crafts designers is Harvey Ellis and my book on Ellis Inlay designs resulted in my acquaintance with Ron Cossner. That's Ron's work in the picture above, and a visit to his website is well worth your time. Look over the furniture and don't forget the furniture polish. Ron works a stone's throw away from Gustav Stickley's original factory, and he is one of the unsung heroes in the revival of interest in Stickley's work. He rescued a lot of important material and made sure it landed in safe hands.

This is a reproduction of one of the Harvey Ellis inlays, made by Mitchell Andrus. Mitch is another accomplished furniture maker, and he was asked to reproduce the piano case at Craftsman Farms in New Jersey. These intricate inlays were originally introduced in 1903, and original versions are a rare and precious commodity as these versions of Craftsman furniture never made it beyond the prototype and sample stage. The addition of the inlays to Craftsman furniture really adds to the beauty and elegance of the work.


Mitch has used these in his own work, and has recently made many of the original patterns available online. These inlays are laser cut and preassembled and he also has matching stain stencils available for them. In the original Stickley pieces, the inlay work was done by an outside marquetry company and delivered to the Craftsman workshops in this same form. The inlay and background veneer are applied as a single piece of veneer, saving an incredible amount of time.

Guys like Darrell, David, Ron and Mitch are at the leading edge of Arts and Crafts reproduction work. My hat is off to them for successfully doing the work they do. Visit their sites and be inspired. I'll try to share more posts like this, and of course Popular Woodworking will continue to be the leader in presenting articles on building authentic Arts & Crafts furniture.

--Robert Lang


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Friday, February 29, 2008 3:54:24 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [2] 
# Thursday, February 28, 2008
General International 10" Table Saw for Sale

For the November 2007 Popular Woodworking (issue #165), we tested 10" Hybrid Table Saws. We usually sell the machines and tools we test to magazine staff members and other company employees. But in this case, we have one table saw still available — the General International 50-220C M1. We're selling it on a first-come, first-served basis for $650 (the retail price is $869). We'll also throw in a 10"-combination blade from Freud. The catch is, we're running out of shop space, so the buyer will need to come pick it up ASAP (we're in the Kenwood area in Cincinnati, Ohio).

If you'd like to read the review, it's available as a PDF download our web site's Tool Reviews page.

If you'd like to purchase the saw (and can pick it up by March 7), please e-mail megan.fitzpatrick@fwpubs.com or call Megan at 513-531-2690 x1348.



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Thursday, February 28, 2008 12:21:10 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [1] 
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