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 Tuesday, June 10, 2008
Video: Buying Lumber, and Lumber Terminology
Recently, Senior Editor Robert W. Lang and I visited Frank Miller Lumber (FML) in Union City, Indiana where Bob explains how to buy lumber. He also visits with FML Outlet Store Manager Josh Brennen who demonstrates a few differences in wood selection as well as tells us all about quartersawn white oak. –Glen D. Huey
6/10/2008 2:04:53 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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The Wood Whisperer Premiere Video
We've all been waiting for this — it's the initial Wood Whisperer video! This video is a companion to the newest column in the current issue of Popular Woodworking, which is also (appropriately) called "The Wood Whisperer." And there will be plenty more Wood Whisperer videos and articles coming your way in future issues. If you haven't yet found Marc Spagnuolo's web site, thewoodwhisperer.com, you're in for a treat. Marc has a quirky way of presenting great woodworking information for all who care to watch. And once you watch, you'll know why we at Popular Woodworking are happy that he has joined our group of woodworking devotees. If you have a comment to share, please make sure to add it below. We're looking for your feedback about Marc and The Wood Whisperer column. –Glen D. Huey
6/10/2008 1:50:44 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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 Monday, June 09, 2008
Bob's Bench-A Decent First Week
I've started on the bench, spending as much time in the shop as I could spare, and after a week and a day, it looks like I'm making good progress. The shop is messy, but there are now piles of parts where a stack of rough lumber used to be. I've probably spent about 25 hours actually working on it, it gets hard to keep track when I have to stop and take photos or shoot video. Here is a link to some previous posts showing what I'm up to: Previous Blog Posts. And here in a moment of neatness is where I was last Friday morning.  At the bottom of the pile are the two glued up slabs that will comprise the top, and the stack on top is destined to become legs, rails and stretchers. Even though milling rough lumber takes some effort, one of my favorite parts of any project is hitting this point. I tend to fuss over the rough milling, because if my parts will form a nice neat stack, it means they are straight and square. And if they're straight and square, every step that follows will be considerably easier.  One of the purposes for building this bench, and documenting it on the blog and on video is to show that a good bench can be built with a minimal amount of machines, space, experience and skill. I've set up a space in a corner of the shop with a 6-inch joiner, a twelve-inch lunchbox planer, and a 1-3/4 horsepower hybrid table saw. This is a pretty basic setup, and although at times I've pushed the machines close to their limits, they've been up to the task so far. I designed this bench to work around these tools, matching parts and subassemblies to their limitations. So if you've been putting off building a bench until you have a massive table saw, an aircraft carrier size jointer, and a planer the size of a house trailer, find another excuse and get to work.  After rough cutting the 8/4 material to manageable sizes, I milled all the individual pieces for the top, and then glued them together in pairs. Each glued up pair took another trip over the jointer and through the planer. Three pairs were glued together to make each 3" thick, 12" wide and 8-foot long top section. Because these parts were all carefully made, the final assembly went smoothly. I put two straight pieces of material the long way across my horses, and then laid square pieces across them at about 12-inch intervals. This gave me a level platform for gluing, and stock this size doesn't want to twist or bend.  One of the other myths to dispel about building a bench is that "You need a bench to build a bench". Now that I have the tops together, I have a better work surface than I've ever had, and there's no reason not to put them to work. Here's a photo from around lunchtime Friday as I work on the mortises for the leg assemblies. --Bob Lang Read other entries by Robert W. Lang
6/9/2008 4:50:27 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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 Friday, June 06, 2008
Woodworking in America Update
We're making final preparations this month to open registration for Woodworking in America: Hand Tools & Techniques Conference 2008, taking place November 14-16 in Berea, Ky.
By June 30th, we'll send out an annoucment to the Woodworking In America E-News list announcing that the full web site has launched and registration is officially open (if you're not on that E-News list, you can register at WoodworkingInAmerica.com). Then, you can visit the Conference web site to sign up and secure your space.
In the meantime, here are a few of the (many!) questions we've received from people who are excited to attend:
How much will the event cost and what is included? Woodworking in America will be $335 for three days of instruction from more than 20 of the country's leading woodworkers and toolmakers. The fee — about what you'd pay for a short woodworking class from one instructor — also includes coffee and pastries, full-scale hot lunches and a special barbecue dinner with live entertainment. What should I do about accommodations? Right now, there's nothing to do. We've reserved many of the hotel rooms near Berea College at special rates for that weekend. Once registration opens, you'll find lodging and other travel information at WoodworkinginAmerica.com to help you plan your stay.
How many classes will there be? What will be covered? There will be more than 40 classes during the three-day event, and 10 of them will be hands-on workshops in the Berea College student industries building. We'll cover a range of hand-tool topics, from basic sharpening to advanced dovetailing. Plus, many of the sessions will focus on aspects of the craft that rarely get attention, including Japanese tools, 18th-century woodworking and chairbuilding. A full class schedule will be published at WoodworkingInAmerica.com when registration opens. We hope you're making plans to join us in November at Berea College. In addition to the classes and marketplace area filled with toolmakers, we have a few other surprises in store that we'll announce first in the Woodworking in America newsletter. So mark your calendars for November 14-16... and sign up for for Woodworking In America E-News (if you haven't already!).
— Christopher Schwarz, editor
6/6/2008 1:55:07 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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New Videos
We’re getting close to shipping the August issue of Popular Woodworking. Subscribers shold get it the week of June 9th (that's next week) and if you’re still purchasing Popular Woodworking magazine at a newsstand you can find a copy by July 1st (but you should susbcribe – you'll save money!).
If you’re wondering what’s on the cover, where have you been? We’ve sent out a cover test to newsletter subscribers (be sure to register if you haven’t already) allowing them to vote for the cover they most liked (the comments were very interesting), and Senior Editor Robert W. Lang has a blog entry about two approaches used to buy lumber, one he used when purchasing the stock for his Craftsman Bookcase (the cover project) and the other approach was used when he bought the lumber for a workbench he’s building as I write (to read his entry, click here).
And now we’ve added a video, “Choosing Project Lumber,” in which Bob explains the process he used as he selected lumber for his bookcase at Frank Miller Lumber (click here to view the video or watch it in the player below.) Here you can see the pieces that became his bookcase. Was the 50 board feet of lumber he selected enough to complete the project?
Watch the video, read the blog and when the magazine arrives, you’ll have all the background information at hand to really enjoy the article.
 By the way, this isn’t the only video we’re uploading for this next issue. We have an example of sand shading an inlay (this video is available now, click here or watch this video in the player below as well), an explanation of quartersawn lumber straight from someone in the know at Frank Miller Lumber and don’t forget our new column by Marc Spagnuolo, a.k.a. The Wood Whisperer.
And what do you think of the new video format (we've embedded them in the blog)? Is this better than clicking through to the video player at popularwoodworking.com/video? Leave a comment to let us know.
–Glen D. Huey Read other entries by Glen D. Huey
6/6/2008 9:06:41 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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 Tuesday, June 03, 2008
Buying Hardwood Lumber – Two Approaches
Among the most often-asked questions we get are about buying lumber for a project. Although it seems to be a very basic question, and knowledgeable folks like us should have a quick answer, it isn't as simple as going to the grocery store for ingredients for a meal. When you buy hardwood lumber, you're not buying the steak you want to have for dinner. You're buying the part of the cow that the steak comes from.
 How much lumber you need, and how you go about buying it, depends on a lot of things that can't always be calculated or predicted. You can (and should) calculate the sizes of the finished parts for a project. For our August issue (which should start shipping to subscribers in a couple weeks) I built this Craftsman-style bookcase.  Some quick number crunching reveals that the finished parts will require a little less than 40 board feet (bf) of material. That's good information, and if I were pouring a liquid into a mold, that amount of raw material would work. The problem with wood is that until you see the raw material, you have little idea how much to allow for waste. For this bookcase, I used lumber-buying method number 1; I went to the lumber yard with my cutlist and drawing in hand and selected each piece. I was fortunate that wide material was available for most of the parts and that the stuff on hand was long enough that I could cut one 5'-long side and a shelf, or three shelves from each available 9'-long plank. That accounted for three planks, and the others would yield the the remaining parts. I spent some time, and examined about 200 bf of material before purchasing 49 bf. I have just enough material left over to make a frame for my new poster that all the other editors are coveting. We shot some video of this process, and you can view it by clicking here. For the October issue, I'm knee-deep in milling rough lumber and making parts for the workbench seen in the exploded view below. This is made from 8/4 (2"-thick) material. The top sections and the legs are laminated to make thicker parts. Each top section will be 3" thick, 12" wide and a little more than 7' long. The legs will be 3-1/2" square. I called some mills to get prices, and found a good deal on ash. For this project, I used lumber buying-strategy number 2. I wasn't that concerned about the appearance of the wood, I knew I needed a bunch, and I didn't want to drive half a day to go get it and bring it home. I wanted to order "X" amount and have it delivered.  The finished parts calculate to be about 80 bf, so my experience with the bookcase tells me I need about 20 percent more than that for waste. If I had ordered 100 bf, I would have had to make a second phone call, and here's why. Cherry-picking (actually sapele-picking) the wood for the bookcase kept me away from the biggest factor that can't be controlled – random lengths and widths. The guys at the mill loading the truck weren't about to look at my cutlist and send me the most usable pieces out of what they had. They were going to pull "X" amount of the top of the stack and send it on its way. So instead of adding 20 percent to what I calculated, I added 50 percent. Then a little voice in my head said, "take the order up to 150 bf; the price is good and it won't hurt to have some extra around the shop." This morning I glued up the last piece to be laminated, and was grateful that I listened to the little voice. Most of the parts I needed finish at 3" or 3-1/2" wide. Most of the lumber that arrived was slightly over 6" wide – not quite wide enough to get two pieces from each board. I ended up with just enough material, even though I thought I was buying a lot more than I needed.  Buying lumber is more art than science, and you have to be willing to risk having extra material around to avoid the worst that can happen. The worst isn't having extra material kicking around the shop. The worst thing is stopping in the middle of a project to go get one more board. I did end up with a sizable amount of extra material from the bench, but it all looks like this. This appears to be just about a lifetime supply of stock for baseball bats, billy clubs and hoe handles. But I have all the parts for the bench on hand, and I'm ready to start putting it together. – Bob Lang Read other entries by Robert W. Lang
6/3/2008 2:09:57 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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The Cleanest Cut Ever? You Be the Judge

The new Bridge City Tools Jointmaker Pro is probably the most innovative and controversial new hand tool introduced in the last decade. The Jointmaker's sliding table floats over a Japanese sawblade, allowing you to make amazingly smooth, clean and precise cuts.
The internet message boards have been atwitter with the news of the Jointmaker. Some have hailed as the best thing since sliced bubinga. Others have had harsh words for the price or the fact that "it's cheating."
We want you to decide.
We're bringing the tool's inventor, John Economaki, here to our offices in Cincinnati for a free event at 6 p.m. on June 19. We will serve you a free pizza dinner (plus cookies!) and then you'll get to see and hear how the Jointmaker Pro works. You'll also get to try one for yourself.
And if you have been living under a rock for the last few months, here are some links that will help explain this remarkable new device:
A blog entry I wrote on the Jointmaker when it was introduced. A link to the Bridge City web site. A link to a video showing it in action.
We'd very much like you to join us, but space is limited to 60 people. Please RSVP to Managing Editor Megan Fitzpatrick at megan.fitzpatrick@fwpubs.com so we can save you a space.
— Christopher Schwarz
Read other entries by Christopher Schwarz
6/3/2008 1:19:17 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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 Tuesday, May 27, 2008
Steel City Granite Machines — an Interactive Review
About a year ago, Senior Editor Glen D. Huey wandered over to my desk and asked me if I thought he was being made the victim of a practical joke. In a phone conversation he had been told that Steel City Toolworks was planning on using granite instead of cast iron in some of its machines. At first, I thought that Glen's leg was being pulled, but I had to think about the advantages of granite. The pluses started to add up (dead flat, won't rust, heavy enough to absorb a lot of vibration) until it seemed like a good idea.
 Fast forward a couple months and there we were in Las Vegas, looking at prototypes of a table saw, band saw and jointer. A few weeks ago, production models arrived in our shop, and last week we found the time to take off the crates and put them to work. During the next few weeks, I'll be using them to build my new workbench and we'll have a full review in an upcoming issue.
 For today, I'm going to give some first impressions, and invite you to add a comment or send me an e-mail with any specific questions. The idea is, if I miss anything, or if there is a part of any of the machines you want a closer look at, I can run out to the shop and come up with a picture and an answer. The two pictures above are of the 14" band saw. As you can see, the top is flat and smooth and the rest of the saw is nicely made. The cast iron parts are nice and beefy and where stone meets iron, the connection is made with a threaded insert glued in a hole in the granite. We haven't used it much, but so far we like what we see.
 The beds of the 6" jointer are cast iron, and the fence is granite. This is a perfect application for the dead-flat granite. Most jointers made in the last 20 or 30 years have terrible fences, twisted and warped and impossible to make square to the bed for the entire length of the fence. We've become used to that and set the fence square near the knives and compromise our technique to achieve square edges. This fence is dead on all the way and makes edge jointing easier and more reliable.
 On paper, the 10" table saw is the same as the one we tested in November 2006. The motor horsepower and cutting capacity have stayed the same, but the addition of the granite top and a riving knife have resulted in substantial changes to the trunnion assembly. If anything, it is heavier and smoother operating than the previous version.
 This view from above shows the riving knife in place. The top is incredibly flat, and one of the nice surprises about putting this saw together was putting on the left-hand wing. Despite being much heavier than cast iron, it was much easier. The granite extension mounts to the saw with rails that ride in grooves milled in the bottom surface.
 It was much simpler to slide the granite onto the rails as opposed to holding a cast iron wing in place while threading in the mounting bolts. Leveling the two surfaces was also far simpler on this saw than on a standard one, in large part because both pieces were really and truly flat.
 One of the questions I hear most often asked is about the miter gauge. Actually, there are two common questions. The first is, "Will after-market miter gauge accessories fit?" The answer is yes; the slot in the top is the industry standard 3/4" wide by 3/8" deep. On the miter gauge supplied with the saw, the standard washer that rides in the T-slot has been replaced with a flat bar that's about 2" long. This is to spread out the force when the miter gauge is all the way back. If you were to push down on the miter gauge from this position, there is a chance that a standard washer could create a chip in the edge of the granite. If it were me, I'd leave the washer off an accessory miter gauge.
The second question regards mounting other accessories, such as magnetic featherboards. Of course, magnets won't stick to stone, so these devices won't work.
All in all, this is a nice little saw, and so far I think the granite top is worth the small upcharge. I like working on a flat surface, the top is smooth and offers little resistance, and it does absorb most of the vibration from the motor. And I know that if I set my coffee cup down on it, there won't be a rust spot to deal with.
I'll have more to say over the next few weeks, and please send me your questions about these machines.
— Bob Lang
5/27/2008 2:24:26 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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Impatience and Frustration – Bad Bedfellows Indeed
"How poor are they that have not patience! What wound did ever heal but by degrees? Thou know'st we work by wit, and not by witchcraft; And wit depends on dilatory time." (Othello, 2.2.376-79)
 Over this holiday weekend, I planned to do nothing but sit on my couch and read for my upcoming exams – and do as little physical labor as possible. Unfortunately, whilst sitting on my couch, I had an almost head-on view of the small hallway in which I've been meaning to install a built-in cupboard. In my line-of-sight were a box of cat litter and two bags of cat food that would be hidden behind the doors of said cupboard. Needless to say, this distracted me mightily from my Shakespeare.
So, I took some measurements, drew up a rough sketch (not my forte as you can see above) hopped in my car and drove to the home center where I picked up some 2x12 Southern yellow pine from the "Construction Lumber" section. I planned to paint the piece (and I'm cheap), so SYP was a perfect choice...except that I'd have to mill off a lot of waste to get to my desired 3/4" thickness. But no problem – after all, we have the technology.
I got to the shop, plugged in my iPod (the first step in any project), and rough cut my pieces to length at the miter saw. Then I powered up the dust collection, adjusted the jointer fence and went to work on the milling. I moved to the planer, ran a couple pieces through...and was hit in the face with a HUGE cloud of dust.
It seems our dust collector hadn't been emptied since Hector was a pup. Not only was the waste container full, the dust was backed up into the overhead pipes and jammed at the intake for the planer. So after a moment (or 10) of fishwife-worthy curses, I emptied out the container then spent a half hour getting the pipes unjammed, then swept up enough dust to fill another two containers. ARGHHH!!!!!
By this time, I was quite frustrated (yes, I should have checked the collector before I started; I was mostly angry with myself). I finished milling the lumber, stacked it on my bench, and decided the construction could wait. I'd had enough for one day, and I _really_ needed to get back to my books. So I left.
You'll recall that I used Southern yellow pine. From the home center. From the Construction Lumber department. Rule #1 when buying cheap wood: Let it dry. Or if you're impatient, mill it and IMMEDIATELY construct your project, clamping the ever-loving you-know-what out of it so it doesn't warp/twist/cup/etc as it dries. OK. really, you should let it dry.
What you should never do is stack it, unstickered, on your bench.
 Two days later, I'm hoping that, having stickered it, the top piece will flatten out as the moisture loss from the now-exposed side catches up. If it doesn't (and I know it won't, but a girl's gotta have hope), it's another trip to the home center...for a BIG box of screws. And stock for a beefier face frame to hide those screws. I'll head for the hardwood. It's usually dry.
— Megan Fitzpatrick
Read other entries by Megan Fitzpatrick
5/27/2008 12:27:14 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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 Tuesday, May 20, 2008
We Want to Feature Your Work
Sharing knowledge and inspiration is an integral part of woodworking. On most forums, you’ll find a wealth of knowledge on tools, techniques and projects.
And, if you’re looking for inspiration, to me there’s no better source than viewing pieces by other woodworkers (Rob Millard's Shelf Clock, featured in "Federal Furniture" in our August 2008 issue (on newsstands July 1, is an excellent case in point). We all enjoy seeing other’s completed projects, how the maker has tweaked a design to best fit his or her needs, and the great craftsmanship that’s out there in the woodworking world.
 So, we're going to share at least one project from you, our readers, each month on the blog. You send in your submissions, and we'll select an entry for online publication. Any design is welcomed, from period reproductions to studio furniture designs, from country to Arts & Crafts, to Greene & Greene – and anything in between. The woodworker whose project is selected receives either a 12-month subscription to Popular Woodworking magazine or an extension on a current subscription – so, please include your contact information. If you have a project you would like to submit, send me ( glen.huey@fwpubs.com) one or two photos (no more than 3 megabytes in size, please) of your completed project along with a brief description (250 words or fewer) including woods used, design ideas and techniques you’ve used while building the piece. If you keep track of the time spent building your project, include that as well. But we want to do more than just show you pictures. One of my favorite woodworking books is Albert Sack’s “Fine Points Of Furniture: Early American” (Crown Publisher’s Inc.). It's often referred to as the “Good, Better, Best” book, because inside, Sack describes why one piece of a same or similar design is better than others. Or, why a certain piece is considered a “Masterpiece.” This information helped shape my woodworking knowledge and ultimately improved my eye for design.  We plan to borrow Sack’s model. We’ll add a short critique about the project, listing the positives and a few negatives (if they exist). Then, as you read the critique, you’ll gain insight as to how we editors view furniture. As readers, you can agree or disagree with our findings by posting comments about the projects. Our hope is to build informative discussions about what makes furniture work or not work. We’re aiming to start this in June – so submit your work right away. – Glen D. Huey Read other entries by Glen D. Huey
5/20/2008 12:39:25 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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 Tuesday, May 13, 2008
High Heels and Pounce Bags

Last Sunday, in The New York Times Magazine cover story, Michael Sokolove reported that in the world of sports, “Girls are more likely suffer chronic knee pain as well as shinsplints and stress fractures.” And, according to some research, ankle sprains, hip and back pain are more prevalent among women athletes, as are concussions in sports that both sexes play.
I guess I’m lucky. I played soccer for three decades and while my knees do hurt on occasion, I never tore an anterior cruciate ligament (aka ACL). After a mild sprain or two, my right ankle isn’t quite as strong as it once was, but I’ve never been on crutches for more than a week. And no concussions (at least none I remember). What finally ended the game for me was a snapped wrist during a stint as keeper. I was in a cast for four months, and my right wrist is now chronically weak – and I’m chronically afraid of breaking it again. (But for the record, I blocked that shot.)
The difference between men and women, according to experts Sokolove interviewed, is biometrics. Quite simply, men and women are built differently, and after puberty, men tend to add muscle whereas women tend to add fat, so women don’t have the same intrinsic strength to support muscle and ligament movements. And, because of women’s hip shapes, we tend to run differently. According to some experts, the female body can be trained to address these differences, which may reduce injuries.
I find a similar issue in woodworking from time to time. At 5'5", I’m of average height for a woman. But the benches in our shop were built by men, and my bench used to belong to Editor Christopher Schwarz, who is just shy of a foot taller than am I. So, properly using a hand plane at that bench is for me impossible, as my elbows are always bent far more than they ought to be. This is an easy fix — either build my own bench…or wear high heels. (Thus far, I’ve opted for the heels.)
 
On the left, I'm wearing 4" heels; on the right, I'm in flats. Sawing is also a challenge, at least for some women. In “How to Saw” in the Spring 2008 Woodworking Magazine, Chris illustrates proper sawing stance, with his legs and body positioned straight on to the cut, and the elbow of his sawing arm swinging freely past his torso. Let’s just say that if I line my body up in the same way, my sawing arm cannot swing straight back unimpeded. In this situation, I opt to stand a bit left of center…or wear a sports bra. Again, it boils down to a fashion choice. It took me a long time to get comfortable with our Powermatic table saw, too. Pushing a board through the cut is quite scary for me. Compared to the guys, my torso is a lot lower and closer to the blade when I lean forward, and my arms are a lot a shorter. So, my hand, arms and chest are always closer to the blade. Thus, I have to more often give up some workpiece control by using a push stick when one of the guys might not choose to use one.
And then there’s gloves (no, I don’t wear them at the jointer). One size does not fit all. It doesn’t even come close. Forget the home center or hardware store. When I need nitrile or vinyl gloves for messy finishing jobs, I have to drive miles to a medical supply store. And even then, I’m not always able to find women’s smalls.
Hand-held tools can also be a challenge. We have some drills in our shop that I simply cannot pick up and use with one hand, due to their weight. And on others, the grip is far too large to be comfortable. I realize these tools are designed for the “average” user – but I do wish more manufacturers paid attention to the fact that far more women are now buying and using tools. I don’t think our relatively smaller frames and hand sizes are usually factored into that “average.” (Of course, my chronically weak right wrist doesn’t help matters. Darn – guess I can’t use that Firestorm pictured above.)
In my soccer “career,” until college I was usually the only girl on the team. I wasn’t the best player, but I could hold my own. By age 16, most of the guys were faster, stronger and a whole lot bigger than was I. So I compensated by improving my blocking, tackling and passing. I’ve had to learn some similar “fixes” in woodworking. And of course, it affords me the opportunity to match my pounce bag to my shoes.
— Megan Fitzpatrick
Read other entries by Megan Fitzpatrick
5/13/2008 2:28:02 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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 Monday, May 12, 2008
Glen-Drake Tools Visits Popular Woodworking
Last Thursday we held our first reader event of the year here at our offices and shop. This is one of the best parts of working here. We invite readers to come in for a free meal and an opportunity to take an up-close, hands-on look at tools and meet the makers. In the past, we've welcomed Bridge City Toolworks, Leigh Dovetail jigs and Bosch. This time we welcomed Kevin Drake, owner and founder of Glen-Drake Toolworks. That's Kevin on the right, preparing to turn a tool handle for us. He'll be writing an article in an upcoming issue of Popular Woodworking on turning for "flat" woodworkers. Our ace photographer, Al Parrish, is getting set to take the opening shot for the article, and Senior Editor Glen D. Huey is taking video. When we were done, it was time to clean up the shop and get ready for company.  After a fine meal, more than 50 readers settled in to watch a demonstration of the tools made by Glen-Drake, and to listen to Kevin talk about his philosophy of woodworking and toolmaking. One of our all-time favorite tools is the Glen-Drake Tite-Mark cutting gauge, and Kevin is one of our favorite people. Not many people have the ability to improve on tools that have been around for hundreds of years, and he has done just that with his marking gauge, hammers, and his latest creation, the Wild West Joinery Saw seen in the photo above.  Kevin has developed a method for cutting dovetails that makes the process predictable and precise. Using the Kerf-Starter and Offset Gauge shown above, the fit can be fine-tuned before cutting. This is a great example of questioning processes most of us take for granted, and developing new solutions. After listening to Kevin and seeing the details on a video screen, it was time to head out to the shop.  There's nothing like taking a tool in your hands and giving it a try, and it's even better when you can get a lesson from the guy who dreamed it up. Here a few readers are getting a good look at the technique for the joinery saw before taking it for a test drive. If you'd like more information on Glen-Drake tools, there is a DVD available that explains the theories behind them, and how to use them. You can get a copy for free by calling 800-961-1569. Kevin will be appearing with us at Woodworking in America next November in Berea, Ky. Editor Christopher Schwarz will have some posts over at the Woodworking Magazine blog, and we'll have video of Kevin's visit up on the Popular Woodworking video page in the near future. – Bob Lang
5/12/2008 11:34:06 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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