Search
Navigation
Blogroll
Woodworking Magazine
Christopher Schwarz's blog at our sister magazine |
Arts & Mysteries
Adam Cherubini's blog on period tools and techniques. |
Craftsman Plans
Purchase plans and books of shop drawings for Arts & Crafts furniture by Senior Editor Robert Lang |
Heartwood
Rob Porcaro's thoughtful blog that explores hand work, power tools and blending the two. |
Joel Moskowitz
The founder of the Tools for Working Wood catalog writes about tools, the tool business and the life of a tool maker. |
Popular Woodworking's T-shirts, mugs & more
Like the magazine? You'll like the shirts (other magazines won't, however) |
Sauer & Steiner Blog
Planemaker Konrad Sauer invites you into his workshop. Lots of great (and dangerous) photos of work in progress. |
The Windsor Institute
Michael Dunbar's school of Windsor Chairmaking |
The Wood Whisperer
A great video podcast site by Marc Spagnuolo that we follow closely here at the magazine. |
Archive
|
 Thursday, September 11, 2008
Build the Holtzapffel Workbench Part 5: Grease

This is my favorite picture of the ones I've taken while documenting the class. Here we're routing out the cavities for the bolts that hold the workbench bases together.
When you teach anything – animal husbandry, frog gigging or brain surgery – here’s some advice for you: Don’t give demonstrations after lunch.
Today in class we had a lot to accomplish; the goal was to get the bases ready to assemble on Friday morning. It was an ambitious plan, and the students worked quietly and diligently all morning to tune up their tenons and mortises.
Lunch today was shrimp Creole (Kelly Mehler always provides hearty hot lunches). And it smelled really good. I didn’t actually eat the Creole. You see, it’s not that I have a thing against chomping our crustacean chums, it’s that I have a thing against lunch. If I eat a big lunch, then I want to crawl under my workbench and take a nap. I learned this in kindergarten, where it was encouraged. Then they beat it out of you, which is no fair.
So I eat a light lunch. Greek yogurt. Some fruit. Maybe a cup of coffee. That way I’m quasi-perky come 1 p.m.
After lunch, one of the students, we’ll call him “Rob the Canadian,” asked if I would give a demonstration on drawboring. Rob the Canadian was at the point in his project where he needed the demonstration to proceed with his workbench. He’s a meticulous craftsman, incredibly driven, and he is a few steps ahead of the rest of the class as a result.
A little voice inside my head said that drawboring and digestion don’t play well together. But I wanted to keep Rob on track. Plus, I beat the tar out of things with a mallet during the demonstration, and I say funny words like “old groat.” So I agreed.
And 20 minutes into my demonstration Rob the Canadian drifted (briefly) off to sleep.
There’s more to the story (including some fairly hilarious teasing that continued long into the day), but we’ll just let that part of the story stay in Berea.
After waking up Rob the Canadian, I continued the demonstration. And that’s when another student, we’ll call him “Larry the Alaskan,” dropped a bomb on me. Larry the Alaskan recently took a three-month course in timber framing, and they also used drawboring (albeit on a much bigger scale).
One of the most stressful parts of drawboring is driving in the peg through the offset holes you have bored. The peg can pull up your joint tight (that’s good), or it can explode (that’s bad). Larry the Alaskan said that he was taught to simply wax their pins before driving them.
So we tried it on one of the student’s bases. All I can say is “wow.” Driving a 5”-long waxed oak pin through hard maple has never been easier. In the past, I’ve been driving my pegs while they were coated with nothing, hide glue or yellow glue. All three of the techniques have advantages and disadvantages.
But coating them with wax? That is genius. It’s such a good tip, I almost don’t feel like I should get paid for today’s work. Well, unless you count the bit of sleeping therapy I provided.
— Christopher Schwarz
Rob the Canadian and Kelly Mehler look over his assembled workbench end after drawboring the oak pegs through the mortises. Read other entries by Christopher Schwarz
9/11/2008 10:34:40 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
|
|
Bosch's PS50 Multi-X
 One of the things I’ve found pertinent to unearthing tools that might be introduced to the U.S. market, is to discover what’s available in Europe. It seems that European woodworkers get the first crack at new tooling – possibly due to Underwriters Laboratories' incessant studies before granting approval for a tool to be released in the United States.
In doing Internet searches looking for said tools, I found a PMF 180 E, a multi-function tool made by Bosch that's available in Germany. This tool looked very much like a Fein MultiMaster, a tool shown to the U.S. market via infomercials for many years. I contacted the Bosch team and was surprised to find out they were indeed working on a similar tool for release in the states.
Yesterday, Bosch sent a press release on the new PS50 Multi-X. The Bosch PS50 is battery powered (different from Bosch’s European tool or the Fein MultiMaster) and is built around Bosch’s ultra-compact Lithium-ion battery – the same battery that energizes the company’s PS10 (I-driver), PS20 (pocket driver), PS30 (drill/driver), PS40 (impact driver) and FL11 (flashlight). (Click here to go to Bosch’s web site to check out these tools.)
The PS50 is light at 2.2 pounds, has a soft-grip surface that extends from the nose through the handle (which has a grip girth of 6.88”) and operates at 5,000 – 20,000 rpm.
 Bosch is also launching a number of accessories for the Multi-X, including blades for plunge cutting into wood and metal, flush-cut wheels and pads for sanding and polishing. And, with an included adaptor, the PS50 can use Dremel, Fein or Proxxon accessories.
Bosch feels that by changing the accessory, then adjusting the tool’s speed, the new PS50 could take the place of many sanding and cutting tools around shop or home, and do so without breaking the bank. The PS50 Multi-X tool is scheduled to hit the U.S. market in late October or early November 2008.
 Bosch will offer two kits. A PS50-2A Cutting Kit with the Multi-X, two 12v Lithium-ion batteries, a 30-minute charger, an accessory adapter, a sanding plate, a sanding paper pad and a plunge-cut blade (1-5/8" x 1-1/2") all packed in a hard case and priced at $199. A second kit, the PS50-2B Carpenter Kit, has everything in the previous kit plus three additional plunge-cut blades (3/8" x 1-1/4") and a "BIM Segment Blade" (shown at right). This kit retails at $229.
We’re anxious to get a PS50 Multi-X in the Popular Woodworking shop for testing. As soon as we get some time with a Multi-X, we’ll report our findings.
—Glen D. Huey
Read other entries by Glen D. Huey
9/11/2008 11:37:07 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
|
|
 Wednesday, September 10, 2008
Build the Holtzapffel Workbench Part 4: Gruntwork

I’ve taught eight woodworking classes this year, and I can tell you that every class has a Wednesday. This is the day when you work your hinder off (my hinder is long gone; ask my wife) and you don’t really seem to be much further along at the end of the day than when you started.
Oh, and this is the day when the instructor ruins some of your workpieces.
The day started great. We took the tops out of the clamps and cut them all to size on Kelly Mehler’s Felder table saw with a sliding crosscut table. Yes, the sliding table could handle a 3” x 24” x 8’ maple top. But it took a small army to porter each top in place.
And while Kelly was crosscutting, I demonstrated how to crosscut the tops to size with a Makita circular saw and an edge guide. No surprises here: With the Felder 10’ away, nobody opted to use the circular saw.
Then it was onto the detail work: cutting the tenons and dressing the legs. For the tenons, we set up two stations: One was a table saw with a dado stack that cut the tenons in one whack. The other setup used a table saw to cut the shoulders and a band saw to cut the cheeks.
I set up the machines, but I botched the setup on the table saw that simply trimmed the shoulders. I could blame the Europeans and their fancy table saw fences, but I won’t. It was me. When I thought I was locking down the saw’s rip fence I was actually just locking down the fence’s micro-adjust setting. So the fence moved and one of the students ended up making tenons with progressively longer shoulders.
Kelly had some replacement parts in the wings, so we quickly got back on track again.
Upstairs, the handwork began. I gave lessons in handplane sharpening and setup, and the students began dressing their maple legs with planes. There is a reason they call it “hard” maple. The stuff is hard to work. So I helped some students tune their planes a little higher. And we still have some tuning ahead of us.
I also got to give a demonstration in the care and feeding of augers and the bit and brace. By the end of the week, I suspect the students are going to be sleeping with their braces. Not because they love them so, but because their arms will be frozen while clutching them. Workbenches require a lot of boring.
Wednesday is now almost over. And Thursday is always a good day. These sticks of maple that we have been fussing over are about to become assembled workbench bases. It’s like making fire: Things get exciting when you put two sticks of wood together.
— Christopher Schwarz
Crosscutting the benchtops in one swipe on the table saw was very cool. Read other entries by Christopher Schwarz
9/10/2008 9:25:08 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
|
|
 Tuesday, September 09, 2008
Build the Holtzapffel Workbench Part 3: Grit

Have you ever been part of a lynch mob? Me neither. But I got a little taste of that today as we finished gluing up our workbench tops for the class I’m teaching at Kelly Mehler’s School of Woodworking.
Today was the day to complete gluing up the workbench tops, which are solid hard maple slabs measuring 3” thick, 24” to 28” wide, and 6’ to 8’ feet long. The morning was spent gluing small-size laminations into medium-size laminations. Then, after lunch, most students cut their mortises in the legs and we then embarked on a massive effort to complete the tops.
Here was our task: Each top was composed of two laminations measuring 12” wide or more. We had to dress those on the jointer, mill them to finished thickness on the planer (and everyone’s finished thickness was a bit different) and then we had to edge joint the two slabs so they would come together seamlessly.
 Up until this point, everyone has kept close tabs on their laminations, like watching their kids at the playground. They were in charge of all the milling steps on their laminations and were running the show when their boards were getting glued up.
But sometime during the day, the students let go of their ownership of their slabs. Edge-jointing a 70-pound slab of maple takes four people to do it quickly and well. Planing the slab takes three people hustling. And gluing up the slabs takes a roving band of clamp-happy, gap-hating glue Nazis.
And that’s exactly what we got.
I was on the edge-jointing team (I love jointers) at first. And I helped out with the planing team between slabs. But watching the glue-up team was a thing of beauty. The minute we completed any slab, they attacked the task like a bobcat on an injured baby bird. Two people pounced on the edges with glue rollers, and people fetched clamps and worked the seam in a deliberate way to make sure the laminations lined up.
We all quickly lost track of whose top we were working on, and everyone simply focused on closing that final seam.
We finished ahead of schedule today, but many students stayed late to clean out their mortises and get ready for tomorrow: tenon day.
Kelly Mehler and I have been plotting how he might be able to offer this class again next year (be sure to check his web site on Oct. 1 for details), and we’ve tried to come up with ways to streamline the class. One of our ideas was to purchase the tops pre-made.
Kelly said he floated the idea with some of the students today. They weren’t impressed and said they wouldn’t be as interested in that sort of class.
That’s actually not surprising. Everyone got a lot of practice doing a lot of very precise lamination work that required mastery of both machines and sensitive hand-clamping. And they all did so much of it, that after two days they were good enough at it to go pro.
I don’t think I would want to give that up either.
— Christopher Schwarz Read "Build the Holtzapffel Workbench Part 4: Gruntwork"
One planer team working up one of the slabs before edge-jointing. Read other entries by Christopher Schwarz
9/9/2008 8:18:15 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
|
|
 Monday, September 08, 2008
Build the Holtzapffel Workbench Part 2: Glue

Woodworking is a solitary pursuit. Even at our shop at the magazine, it’s unusual for a couple of us to get together to work on something in the shop. Usually, desperation has to be heavy in the air before any of us dare ask for assistance.
Last spring, for example, Senior Editor Glen Huey helped me out with processing some stock for a class in Michigan. He saved my buttocks (thanks again, Glen). And more recently, Senior Editor Robert W. Lang needed some help getting the shiplapped shelf in his cool new bench ready for a photo shoot. Megan stepped in there, if I remember right. (And if I remember wrong, she will tell me.)
But these are press-in-your-yearbook red-letter days.
Even when I teach woodworking classes, I try to encourage students to work with one another. I ask them to to spot their benchmate’s errant sawing. To correct their wildacious (not a word, Megan, I know) boring. Or to simply help one another hold some parts together while the other drives a few screws.
Sometimes they help each other a bit. Sometimes they drift off into some other problem of their own.
So today we had to glue up an ANSI-certified, totally homogonized metric buttload of workbench tops for the class I’m teaching at Kelly Mehler’s School of Woodworking. I’ve glued up a lot of workbench tops solo, but I can tell you that it is easier than biscuit joinery if you have a team of people slathering on glue, applying clamps and beating the living snot out of the miscreant boards.
Today was somewhat of a miracle. We glued up 31 laminations using a gallon and a half of Titebond Extend, more than 150 clamps and equal amount of sweat and saucy pirate talk. And while all this was going on, the students milled all their workbench legs to size using the jointer, planer and the God-awesome Felder table saw in Kelly’s shop.
At 5 p.m. and 28 laminations into the day, I was beginning to wane. But then I watched in stunned amazement as one of the students who had no vested interest in a particular lamination take charge of the entire situation to make sure that those three sticks of wood were glued together without a single gap.
That simple act took me through the next three laminations with great ease, as did the two Stella Artois beers that Kelly gave me.
Tomorrow is another day of brutal milling. We have to joint and plane all the laminations to make bigger laminations. And we have to mill the stretchers that go between the legs. Normally, I’d be resigned to this as another necessary step to get to the “good part” – joinery and fine-fitting. But with this group of students, I think we’ve already found the good part.
— Christopher Schwarz Read "Build the Holtzapffel Workbench Part 3: Grit"
Do you really need two Felder jointers? Who doesn't! Kelly Mehler's awesome equipment makes pedestrian tasks feel God-like.
This was the scene right as lunch was served. Sure, we'd used $2,000 worth of clamps at this point, but the real work was still ahead of us.
Read other entries by Christopher Schwarz
9/8/2008 8:00:33 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
|
|
Now Available: Special Issues for Digital Download
9/8/2008 4:08:35 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
|
|
Video Shop Trick: Use Titebond Instant Bond to Fix Tenons
When cutting your tenons for mortise-and-tenon joints, invariably you will sometimes cut your tenons too thin. This week we got our hands on the new line of Titebond Instant Bond glues, and Senior Editor Glen D. Huey shows how to use these CA glues to fix this common problem. In this short video, you will see how using a CA glue and waste from your original cheek cuts you can quickly repair your joint. To view the whole line of Titebond Instant Bond Glues and see more of these CA glues in action, check out our IWF coverage video here.– Drew DePenning
9/8/2008 3:25:10 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
|
|
 Sunday, September 07, 2008
Build the Holtzapffel Workbench Class Part 1: Sticks

Kelly Mehler and I both live in Kentucky, but his Kentucky is far different than mine. Tonight I packed up my truck in Ft. Mitchell – a suburb of Cincinnati – and made the 100-mile trek from the city to the Kelly Mehler's School of Woodworking in Berea, Ky.
Where I live, you can judge how close you are to the city’s center by how many Starbucks there are at each highway exit. As the city fell away tonight, their numbers diminished until I was confronted with soldiering on while sucking on an Excedrin or taking a chance on the coffee at Chester Fried Chicken.
By the time I reached Kelly’s school it was twilight. I unloaded my gear without incident, and as I write this blog entry the loudest noise is the crickets. And the brightest light is a toss-up between my laptop’s screen and the moon.
 Tomorrow morning I start teaching a six-day class in building the Holtzapffel-style workbench I constructed last year for Woodworking Magazine. It’s a great workbench and is the one I have in my shop at home. But building eight workbenches in a week has turned out to be a logistical struggle for Kelly, who has been prepping stock for the class for too many days now.
You see, when Kelly and I decided to offer this class we really wanted to give the students a shot at actually completing the bench. Many people I’ve talked to who have taken bench-building classes have remarked that they only were able to work on the bench’s top.
So Kelly has been milling maple and gluing up blanks for legs and vise chops for days and days. When we start work tomorrow morning, we’ll have some chit-chat at first, but we’ll be gluing up the tops before lunch if all goes as planned.
The wood is waiting for them in four enormous piles on the ground floor of the shop. Each student’s top is dry-clamped and stacked on a cart. By the stairs is a large mound of leg blanks. Next to that mound is the stretchers and the vise chops. And over by the mortiser is a small army of wooden vise screws and all the other little bits of wood that will make the bench come together.
It’s going to be a week of physical exercise, but I expect the pace to be relaxed. It’s always that way when I teach at this school, and it is probably the result of the pastoral location and Kelly’s unflappable Zen-like vibe.
And the coffee helps, too.
Speaking of coffee, as I tooled through the rolling Bluegrass hills this evening I did spy one curious development on the landscape. At the Richmond exit – one exit away from Berea – they have a brand new Starbucks by the highway.
You could see it as sign of progress, or as something else. — Christopher Schwarz Read "Build the Holtzapffel Workbench Part 2: Glue"
Read other entries by Christopher Schwarz
9/7/2008 9:59:23 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
|
|
 Wednesday, September 03, 2008
Tool Test: Final Cut Saw Blades

Combination tools are invading the woodworking area. Last year at AWFS, Jet Tools and Grizzly Industrial introduced jointer/planer machines. At the most recent IWF in Atlanta, Grizzly unleashed a machine that will plane a board and sand the piece as it passes through the machine – a helical-head planer and widebelt sander all in one. Sometimes, however, the most effective tool is a simple design change or adaptation. The tool that makes you slap your forehead and wonder why you didn’t think of that. The Final Cut saw blade could be just that tool.
Final Cut has designed and patented a 10", 40-tooth saw blade that’s fitted with a sanding disc (#100 grit is the only available grit) on both sides of the blade. The cost of the blade is $75. I have to admit I was skeptical and had questions when this blade landed in my in box. Gimmicky for sure, was my thought.
According to the company, the blade works because the sanding disc extends beyond the cut of the teeth, so the blade makes the cut and the sandpaper smooths the cut all in one motion. I installed the blade on our table saw and made a cut, fully expecting a less-than-spectacular result. To my surprise, the cut was clean and fully sanded. And I made that cut in 8/4 red oak. I was intrigued.
Then another set of questions came to mind.
- How long would the paper last? According to the company the sandpaper should last as long as the blade is sharp, or a single blade installed on a miter saw should make about 2,000 cuts through 2-1/4" pine casing.
- Can these discs be used on other manufactured saw blades? Yes you can, but this blade and this sanding were specifically designed to work together. The Final Cut blade is a 0.070" plate with a 0.104" kerf carbide tip. The relationship between a sanding disc and a saw blade manufactured by a different company may not yield the same results.
- If I cut to my layout line, how much additional material is removed by the sanding action? I was thinking I would have problems with hitting my mark, however blade sanding removes only an additional .004" after the cut. Working beyond those tolerances, for me, would be a little finicky.
- How costly are replacement discs? Sanding discs (pressure-sensitive and adhesive-backed) are available at the company store (click here) in packs of 10 priced at $60 and four-packs are $27.
- Besides a smooth cut, what are some other benefits? One issue with table saw cutting is the possibility of kickback. Not that this blade will eliminate kickback, but a Final Cut blade may reduce those possibilities by continuously sanding the workpiece even if it begins to pinch the blade, which is the major cause of kickback. Additionally, blade longevity is said to increase due to a reduction in friction, with the teeth no longer continuously rubbing against the cut surface.
I doubt I would use this blade on my saws full time (most of my ripping cuts are not the last step prior to assembly, and a lot of my miter saw cuts are to crosscut stock before milling), but I can see applications where the blade would be useful, such as mitered corners for frames or cabinet mouldings. The company's web site has additional information, click here. Also, I suggest a dust collector be used when cutting with this blade. The amount of generated dust is substantial. What do you think? Leave a comment with your thoughts or ways in which you could see a final cut saw blade being used. Or, if you think this is a gimmick, tell me why. —Glen D. HueyUpdate: I just got word from Final Cut that two 12" blades should be available late next week – a 32-tooth blade with #100-grit discs for $96.95 and a 72-tooth blade, also with #100-grit discs, for $124.95. Both 12" blades have a 1" arbor. Read other entries by Glen D. Huey | Read other Tool Tests
9/3/2008 11:42:02 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
|
|
 Tuesday, September 02, 2008
Grex: Our Favorite 23-gauge Pinners
The editors don't all agree on much here at Popular Woodworking,
so when we do, we think it's worth noting. When it comes to 23-gauge
pin nailers, we always reach for the unmistakable bright green nailer
from Grex. These nailers are extremely well made pieces of equipment,
almost never jam and fire pins that are an astonishing length (2").
Best of all, the pinner leaves little trace that it was there, so there
are no nail holes to fill. Above is a video (which was sponsored by Grex) that features the tool that was shot during the International Woodworking Fair. Plus below you will find two articles from past issues of Popular Woodworking that show why this is our favorite line of pinners. "Tool Test" – April 2007 (Issue #161)Twenty-three gauge headless pinners have come a long way in recent years, and we were glad to test the new Grex model P645L in the shop. The new edition is an upgrade from the P630 model in a number of ways. First, there’s the additional range of fastener lengths. Now you can use fasteners in 12 different lengths from 1/2" to 1-3/4" in size. This is a 3⁄8" increase in the total fastener length from the earlier tool’s top end. Is this something big? If you’re attaching face frames, it might just be great news because of the additional holding power. This was evident in plywood as well.  Next, while Grex has continued using the adjust-free magazine (no need to adjust for each change in fastener size), the double trigger safety and rubber hand grip, there is a new feature in the P645L that I found especially interesting – the lock-out mechanism (shown in the inset photo). If you have ever attached mouldings to your projects only to find that the pinner was emptied sometime during the task, you will appreciate this feature, too. Dry firing will not happen after the number of remaining fasteners drops below six or seven pins. Of course, this feature can be over-ridden if you are about to complete the task.  How does the pinner operate? I shot the 1-3/4" pins through 4/4 pine and 6/4 red oak without any problems. The pins did move slightly with the grain of the wood, however nothing more than you would expect. The P645L is a bit weightier than the previous model by almost a half-pound but it is still light enough to use for an eight-hour work day. Unlike many of those in the construction trades, I am not a fan of the belt hook. I cannot see dragging the air hose around the woodworking shop while attaching mouldings. Fear not, I am sure that the feature can be removed if need be. SPECIFICATIONS Grex 23-gauge Headless PinnerStreet price: $330 Fastener sizes: 1/2" to 1-3/4" Weight: 2.68 lbs. Performance: ●●●●● Price range: $$$$ Grex: 626-289-7618 or grexusa.com"Best New Tools of 2005" – December 2005 (Issue #152) In the interest of full disclosure, know this: We’re fools for 23-gauge headless pinners. There’s no better pneumatic tool for attaching delicate mouldings without worrying about splitting the work. The only limitation we’ve encountered with these fine air guns is that they generally only fire pins up to 1" in length. That does get you most of the way there, but more often than not, we want a 1-3⁄8" pin for attaching 3/4"- or 7⁄8"-thick moulding. Our prayers to the pneumatic goddess were answered this year with the Grex P635 headless pinner.This tool goes to 1-3⁄8" (1-1⁄8" and 1-3⁄8" pins are available from suppliers). If that’s all the tool did, we’d be happy. But the Grex goes a step further; it’s a well-designed gun. The fit and finish is excellent, for starters. It also exhausts out the rear and has a silencer. The safety on the gun is both safe and convenient. And the magazine for loading the pins is thoughtfully designed: A small metal clip keeps the pins from falling out of the magazine when you open it up, and the magazine automatically adjusts for different pin sizes (some pinners require you to reconfigure the magazine when you change to a different length). Plus, the tool’s shape and size allow you to get in tight spaces under mouldings. It’s pricey ($199) but we’re completely sold.
9/2/2008 2:04:02 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
|
|
 Thursday, August 28, 2008
Build a Boat in Less than a Week
In February 2005, John Wilson (whom you likely know from his Shaker box articles) wrote a story for us on building a “Sailor Girl”– a 12'-long boat made in just three-and-a half days (including the sail!) with plywood and epoxy – materials readily available at most home centers. (We’ve posted a pdf of the article at the end of this entry.)
John is the founder of The Home Shop, a Charlotte, Mich.-based supplier of Shaker box materials, and woodworking school where he and others teach classes on a wide variety of topics, including (natch) Shaker box building, hand-cut dovetails, mortise-and-tenon joinery and how to make your own travisher plane. For many years, John has also taught a class on making a “Sailor Girl” boat.
Next year, however, John is expanding The Home Shop classes to include more Shaker box-building offerings, so May 14-17, 2009, will be the last opportunity to take “Sail Boat Building,” and demand will be strong. A $200 deposit secures you a spot in the class. For details and to sign up for the final Sailor Girl session, call John at 517-543-5325 EST.
SailorGirl.pdf (968.92 KB)— Megan Fitzpatrick Read other entries by Megan Fitzpatrick
8/28/2008 12:31:56 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
|
|
 Wednesday, August 27, 2008
Bob's Bench: A Free Video, DVD and SketchUp Model
Our October issue is reaching subscribers, and should be on newsstands soon. The cover story is about my new workbench, a blend of historic designs that is an ideal work holding solution for hand and power tool woodworkers alike. I've written about it here on the blog as I designed it, and during construction. I'm happy with it-it's nice and solid and will hold just about any piece of work for any task.  I designed the bench using Google SketchUp, a 3-D modeling program that I've been using for the last year or so. The nice thing about using SketchUp is it's similarity to building something, without the dust and the noise. You can put things together, take them back apart, and quickly make changes or see what different variations will look like. My upcoming book features a lengthy section on using the program for designing cabinets and furniture, and I'll be teaching a course or two on using it effectively next year. The price is also right-it's available as a free download by clicking here.  These two images were taken from my SketchUp model of the bench. If you have SketchUp on your computer, you can download the Sketchup model of the workbench and take a closer look from any angle you want to. If you want to build a version of the bench that differs in size, you can start with my model and make whatever modifications you would like. The model is compressed as a .zip file, but it's easy to open it on almost any computer. Download the SketchUp model by clicking this link: WorkbenchModel.zip (332.76 KB)The model is also available on Google's 3Dwarehouse. You can download it in SketchUp (.skp) format by clicking here. We also had the video camera running during the building process, and we have an hour-long DVD available in our store. In addition to the video content, there is a printed set of construction drawings, an enhanced PDF version of the article, a PDF slide show of additional step photos, and the SketchUp model on the disk. Finally, there is a free five-minute video available showing some of the many ways to hold work on the bench. This video is available by clicking here. If you have any questions or comments, you can post them here on the blog by clicking "comment" in the lower right, or you can send me an e-mail by clicking on my name. --Bob Lang Read other entries by Robert W. Lang
8/27/2008 4:58:14 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
|
|
|