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Christopher Schwarz's blog at our sister magazine |
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Adam Cherubini's blog on period tools and techniques. |
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Purchase plans and books of shop drawings for Arts & Crafts furniture by Senior Editor Robert Lang |
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Rob Porcaro's thoughtful blog that explores hand work, power tools and blending the two. |
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The founder of the Tools for Working Wood catalog writes about tools, the tool business and the life of a tool maker. |
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Planemaker Konrad Sauer invites you into his workshop. Lots of great (and dangerous) photos of work in progress. |
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Michael Dunbar's school of Windsor Chairmaking |
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A great video podcast site by Marc Spagnuolo that we follow closely here at the magazine. |
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 Wednesday, October 01, 2008
Squiggle Wood
 One of the best things about this job is that every week, mysterious boxes arrive and we get to open them. Inside we usually discover some of the newest and coolest tools about to hit the market; then we get to run into the shop and play with them, and write about them for you. But a box that arrived last week from John Economaki at Bridge City held something even better (at least to my childlike mind) – “Squiggle Wood.”
This 6" piece of 3/8"-thick beech (I think it’s beech) has a series of 88 evenly spaced alternating kerfs (44 on each side), that allows it to bend in both directions, and side to side (to a point). I don’t know that it has an intended use, but it’s ideal for rapping people on the head when they’re late with stories. And really, like my old Slinky, it’s just entertaining (both the Squiggle Wood and thwacking my fellow editors).
John cut this little piece of fun on the new Jointmaker Pro, a precision machine that uses an upside-down Japanese handsaw blade to make unparalleled glass-smooth cuts for joinery dovetails and more. Plus, it’s virtually dust-free and whisper quiet. We wrote about it in earlier blog posts, which you can read here. Even more fun, however, is to visit YouTube and watch the videos John posted of Squiggle Wood in action (no really, it’s in action). I've been trying to come up with uses for Squiggle Wood, in addition to the aforementioned sap. A bit longer piece could make a nice bracelet. Or it could be the veneer substrate for a round dollhouse tabletop. Or...what do you think? The person who posts the best idea below (by Oct. 15) will win this piece of Squiggle Wood. My fellow editors will be happy to see it go.
– Megan Fitzpatrick
Read other entries by Megan Fitzpatrick
10/1/2008 2:19:17 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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 Monday, September 29, 2008
Tool Review: New Digital Miter Gauge

In 2005, Colorado Springs, Colo., inventor Mario Salazar, along with his business partner (and wife) Tia, applied for and received a patent for a digital miter gauge. Salazar felt the world of woodworking needed to arrive in the 21st century, so he added digital technology to a miter gauge.
At the 2006 International Woodworking Machine & Furniture Supply Fair, Salazar’s digital instrument was displayed. The miter gauge caught the eye of a supplier to retailing giant Sears and the company's Craftsman line of tools. The rest, as they say, is history. (For more information, click here.)
Today, Sears offers a Craftsman Digital Miter Gauge. This gauge enables woodworkers to measure angles at a table saw in less than six seconds. This gauge is easy to use – although it can be a bit fussy – and has an accuracy of +/- 0.1º with readout between 50º to the left or 50º to the right of zero.
The digital head fits to a bar with three adjustable expansion points to achieve an accurate fit to a standard T-slot or non-T-slot miter slot. Also included is a 15"-long extruded-aluminum fence and a locking lever to hold the setup in place. The lock holds securely; I cannot move the angle once it's tightened. The digital readout screen is a 2" LCD, backlit screen that operates on two AAA batteries.
I found the digital setting for an angle cut to be rather difficult to nail down to the final tenth degree. The tool jumped from 22.4º to 22.6º, skipping past the 22.5º for which I was searching. Would cutting angles on my mouldings at 22.4º frustrate me? I think not. I’m not that meticulous. Before digital readout, I doubt I could have dialed in a specific angle any better. But, I’ll bet there are woodworkers out there who will spend an extra 10 minutes to arrive at an angle that's dead-on. If that’s you, you may want to think a second before running out to make this purchase.
I did find this miter gauge to be easy to use when setting the blade tilt. What? That’s right, this gauge, with the addition of an included magnetic accessory bar, can be used to adjust blade tilt. Move over Wixey. Look out Tilt Box. This tool does double duty.

In the photo, the digital LCD readout is upside down. A simple tap of the power button and the readout flips so it's easily legible.
Lower the blade height, snap the magnetic bar onto the gauge bar as well as against the blade while allowing the fence to rest on your tabletop. Then zero out the display. Next, read the angle as you tilt the blade to your needed angle. Each tenth-degree change in angle is marked by an audible click. Again the tool was a bit fussy, but by using the table saw wheel to make the adjustments, I was able to sneak up on the desired angle.
The Craftsman Digital Miter Gauge is available at Sears stores or online at sears.com for $80 (click here). It’s a complete package, but I’m not fond of aluminum fences, so I would chuck that fence in favor of a squarely milled piece of hardwood.
—Glen D. Huey
Read other entries by Glen D. Huey | Read other Tool Tests
9/29/2008 2:33:58 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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Greene and Greene Everyday Slide Show
Being inside a truly great house is like being transported to another world. The vision of the architect and the hands of the craftsmen create something that is set apart from the rest of the world. Visiting Gustav Stickley's Craftsman Farms, or Frank Lloyd Wright's Fallingwater is an unforgettable experience. But sometimes it all comes apart as you enter a kitchen or bathroom. The magic disappears when you see what looks like a typical room of the period. You're no longer part of a masterpiece, you could be anywhere.  Unless you happen to be touring one of the homes designed by California architects Charles and Henry Greene. In these houses, it is obvious that they didn't go off the clock when it came time to design the rooms that the public would not normally see. I became aware of this the first time I visited the Gamble House. I had driven from Las Vegas on a Saturday morning, and was killing time in the bookstore waiting for the tour to begin. The bookstore is located in what was the garage, and the restroom in the bookstore is in nearly original condition. As I was leaving the restroom, I noticed a very nice medicine cabinet. Now the restroom in the garage is probably one of the last details to be considered in designing a 12,000 square foot house and all of its furniture. But not to the brothers Greene. In our November issue is the third and final installment in a series of articles by David Mathias on the work of Greene and Greene. In August, the series began with an overview, and continued in October with a close look at details and joinery. Our final installment looks at kitchens, baths and doors-the everyday items most architects ignore or gloss over. It's an interesting look, and many of the photos and rooms have not been seen in print until now. The November issue is on its way to subscribers, and should be on newsstands in the next couple weeks. (The Gamble garage restroom cabinet is on page 68) In the meantime, we have on online slideshow of photos we didn't have room for in the magazine. click here to view the PDF slide show(1.08 MB)Bob Lang Read other entries by Robert W. Lang
9/29/2008 12:12:01 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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 Tuesday, September 23, 2008
10 Woodworking Terms You Might Not Know
No matter how experienced the woodworker, it's my experience that there's always something else to be learned. That was certainly my finding while editing our most recent Popular Woodworking book, "The Woodworker's Illustrated Encyclopedia." Happily, there were many listings with which I was very familiar. Some sounded familiar, and others were just new. To test your woodworking knowledge, I've pulled 10 listings from the Encyclopedia that may not be all that familiar to you. Enjoy!
– David Thiel, Popular Woodworking Books Editor
Bee’s Wing — A mottled appearance in the grain of some wood species such as this lacewood.
Cubit - A somewhat controversial form of measurement used by the world’s first boat builder. Way back when God was talking to people, he chose (democratically by tender) the Noah Ship Yards to build a boat. It was immediately apparent that God himself drew up the plans for this; it was to be 300 cubits long, 50 cubits wide and 30 cubits high. Translated into today’s measurements it would be 450 feet (137.16 meters) long, 75 feet (23 meters) wide and 45 feet (14 meters) high. Now, that’s based on the idea that back then one cubit measured the distance from the tip of the elbow to the tip of the middle finger, or today, roughly 18".
However, if one believes science over the Bible, Noah would have walked around with his knuckles dragging on the ground. This certainly would add another 6" (15cm) to the length of the cubit. And of course, this brings up another conundrum. What did Noah use as a tape measure? Furthermore, how did he mill the wood for the boat? What did he cut the boards with and, of course, how did he fasten all these boards together? God specified that the boat (He called it an ark) have three chambers in it, and that the chambers be three stories high. What’s a story? A door was to be built low on one side. I guess Noah must have known what a door was.
Grade Stamp (lumber) - A grade stamp shows: (1) the registered symbol of the certified agency; (2) the mill identification number; (3) the species or species group; (4) the seasoned condition; and (5) the grade name or number. In the illustration, this grade stamp states that the lumber is certified by the Western Wood Products Association, from Mill 12 (which can be found in the WWPA membership directory); is from a coniferous tree (also known as softwood – Spruce-Pine-Fir); was graded according to National Lumber Grades Authority rules; is kiln–dried and heat treated (19 percent or less moisture content); and is of standard grade.
Heeling — A potentially dangerous situation when the saw blade of a table saw is misaligned. Heeling is so called because the heel (the back part) of the spinning blade is not aligned with the T–slots and the saw fence. This misalignment causes the board that is being cut to get caught by the rear of the blade and will flip the board up or kick it back into the operator. Both the leading and trailing edges of the saw blade must be perfectly parallel with the T–slots and the rip fence.
Peavey — A peavey is a long hardwood pole with a sharp steel point and a pivoting hook attached to it. The peavey is used as a lever for rolling or positioning logs, either in the woods or at a saw mill. It is a basic necessity for any lumberjack. The peavey was invented in 1858 by Joseph Peavey, who was a blacksmith in Maine. The peavey is an improvement over the cant hook because of the addition of a sharp spike on its end. Yes, there is another Peavey, but that’s a guitar amplifier and not very useful for rolling logs.
Penny Nail - The origin of the penny system for measuring nails
is not without controversy. Some say the term goes back to the days of
the fiddler Nero or even before. The designation d is an abbreviation
of denarius, the ancient Roman equivalent of a penny. It was thought
that much later the reference to pennyweight was the cost of 100 nails
of a particular size. Thus, seven denarii would buy 100 2-1/4" nails. Even
later and in England, that rule withstood the test of time. The
denarius equivalent became the penny, but it still had the d
designation. This is because it was the weight of an Anglo-Norman penny
signified as dwt (pennyweight) and then simply abbreviated to d. To further complicate things, another theory is that 1,000 four-penny nails weighed four pounds.
The
penny system is still in effect in the U.S. but in Canada and England
the inch system prevails. However, in the U.S. the penny system refers
only to nails used for wood-to-wood situations. A roofing nail, for
example, is measured by the inch.
Pinch Dogs — A form of clamp. When they are hammered into the ends of two joining pieces, the angles on the pins draw the pieces together. Pinch dogs may be used in edge gluing as well as miter joining.
Purfling — A decorative inlaid strip that has traditionally outlined the perimeter of a violin or other stringed instrument body. There are many fine and intricate patterns available either made by the luthier or another source. The purfling is usually a sandwich of an exotic wood species such as ebony on the top and bottom with abalone in the middle. Abalone is used today as a replacement for the more traditional (though much less humane) ivory.
Rifflers — See also Files, Rasps. Rifflers are small shaping files used in woodcarving or any other type of woodworking. Rifflers may be used to remove small defects like burrs in metal as well.

Swaged Hinge — (sway-jed) Swaging is the slight offset in the hinge leaves which permits them to close to a parallel position as the door closes. A hinge can by swaged on only one leaf, to leave an gap of approximatley 1⁄16" (top illustration), or both leaves of the hinge can be swaged, to allow a gap of 1⁄32" or less. Hinges can be purchase swaged by the manufacturer, or the woodworker can swage the hinge in the shop carefully using a hammer and an anvil.
9/23/2008 8:36:09 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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 Monday, September 22, 2008
Wood Whisperer Video: Varnish on a Butcher Block
End-grain butcher blocks are a great project for woodworkers. They're a
great way to test our milling skills and they make great gifts. But
when it comes to finishing these cutting boards the traditional mineral
oil and wax routine can be time-consuming, tedious and messy. In this
video our resident Wood Whisperer, Marc Spagnuolo, shows how a few
coats of thinned varnish can provide a quick low-maintenance finishing
solution that is still food-safe.
9/22/2008 5:33:16 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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12 Shaker Projects
 Growing up I remember the times when my father would drag me to historic villages. Our family would spend hours – sometimes a whole day – going on tours, talking to re-enactors, and trying to keep me and my brother from scurrying underneath the velvet roped stanchions. What child doesn't like to play on furniture? To be honest, I dreaded these excursions. I mean it was fun to walk through the towns, but besides the rare occasion when our tour guide would tell us a ghost story, these trips were a drag as a six-year-old. While my siblings and I would pester our mom to take us to see the horses, I vividly remember my father being almost in a trance while in these homes. I would sneak up on him staring at a line of wooden pegs on a wall, or reaching out his hand to grace the top of a long bench in an empty hallway. Then he would slip out his trusty Minolta camera and take several photographs of a staircase. I thought he was crazy. It wasn't until I came to work at Popular Woodworking that I finally realized what my father was doing during all those trips to Pleasant Hill. And now his appreciation for the simple effective designs of the Shaker Village has become my own.  While working on digitizing our back-issues for Digital Download, I came across our special issue 12 Shaker Projects. While I should have just continued to quickly code the issue for you readers, I instead took a few moments to view the magnificence of these pieces of furniture. Not only do they look gorgeous, they are extremely functional (our staff meets around a Trestle Table to start each week). So I've provided below the table of contents of this issue, and whether you wish to build some of these projects or just appreciate the fine design of Shaker furniture – this is a good issue to add to your collection. Also, if you would like more of a historical background of Shaker furniture designs, be sure to grab a copy of the book Pleasant Hill Shaker Furniture by Kerry Pierce. As a bonus, you can download the project plan for the Shaker Blanket Chest by Glen D. Huey by clicking here. – Drew DePenning----- 12 Shaker Projects CONTENTS Tall ClockThis stunning reproduction of Brother Benjamin Youngs’ famous tall Shaker clock will be an instant family heirloom in any home. Oval BoxesCreating the simple curves of these quintessentially Shaker oval boxes is easier than it looks – once you know these tricks. Tailor’s CabinetThis authentic reproduction of a six-drawer tailor’s counter from Watervliet, New York, features plenty of drawers for storage and a drop-leaf to increase your work surface.
Chimney CupboardA traditional face frame, mitered beading and raised-panel doors turn this simple box into a finely detailed variation on a Shaker classic. Trestle TableThis trestle table steals a trick from the bedroom to make it astoundingly rock-solid – without sacrificing its lines and proportions. Entry-hall BenchAdapted from a Hancock, Mass. piece, this straightforward but lovely bench will help teach you the fundamentals of good workmanship. Games CabinetThis large two-door cabinet hides scads of adjustable shelving – perfect for storing games, home-office supplies, and any number of other items in a small footprint. Wall ClockContemporary CAD software helps restore the look of this occasionally corrupted 164-year-old classic Shaker design. Hand-tool StepstoolPractice your hand-cut dovetail technique with traditional tools and a shop-made 10-cent jig as you create this three-step classic. Press CupboardOnce used to help press linens, this beautiful Shaker reproduction serves as a showcase for any collection of china or pottery. Blanket Chest ( click here to view online) This faithful reproduction of a classic from Canaan, N.Y., features enough storage for a family’s-worth of quilts, plus two handy drawers at the bottom. Tripod TableSimple tenons make this iconic three-legged table easier to build than using traditional sliding dovetail joints.
9/22/2008 1:38:30 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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 Tuesday, September 16, 2008
November Preview: Dirt-Simple Router Tricks Video
The November issue of Popular Woodworking mails to subscribers later this week. To whet your appetite, Senior Editor Glen D. Huey and I shot this short video showcasing three uses of the versatile Square Platform Jig. This jig, as well as others, will all be featured in his forthcoming cover story, "Dirt-simple Router Jigs."
So keep watching your mailbox for your November issue, and until then, watch this video for a taste of what's to come. – Drew DePenning
9/16/2008 3:24:04 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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'Out of the Woodwork' Contest – You Could Win a Leigh Superjig
Our backlog of “Out of the Woodwork” articles (the last editorial page of the magazine), is running dangerously low; it’s time to restock the file, and we need your help. So, we’re running a contest for “OOW” submissions. The writer of the best submission (in the editors’ collective opinion) will not only get paid for the article ($250), but also win a 24” Leigh Superjig and matching vacuum and router support. We’ll buy all the runners-up, too ($250), and they’ll be published in future issues of Popular Woodworking.
In case you’re not familiar with the column, it’s a one-page article (600 words or so) that reflects on the writer’s thoughts about woodworking as a profession or hobby. The article can be either humorous or serious, and ideally should be on a unique topic – or present a ubiquitous topic from a fresh viewpoint. We get a lot of “grandpa was a woodworker,” “my first toolbox” and “my dad and I bonded in the shop” submissions; we don’t buy many of them. That’s not to say they’re not good – most of them just aren’t new. We want new. We want fresh. Because we know that’s what you want to read.
So, if you’ve got a great story, write it up and e-mail it to me (Megan Fitzpatrick) via e-mail. You could win a Leigh Superjig, and/or publication (and, OOW column is a great way for new writers to “break in” to the magazine!). The deadline is October 10, 2008. We’ll choose the winners by October 17.
— Megan Fitzpatrick
p.s. Below, we’ve posted pdfs of a few of our favorite OOWs from the past as examples, and for your reading enjoyment.
Almost a Plane Wreck.pdf (185.08 KB) Barn of the Damned.pdf (85.54 KB)Sawdust in the Soup.pdf (156.69 KB)My New Apprentice.pdf (101.01 KB) Read other entries by Megan Fitzpatrick
9/16/2008 12:51:50 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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Hand Tools In the Modern Shop
 Every so often, we publish a newsstand-only special issue that digs deep into a specific topic or process. I like to think of each of these issues as a miniature book that features the best collective knowledge from all of our editors and contributing authors. As a beginner to woodworking, I find these special issues to be a treasure trove of information. Recently, I was gifted a Stanley block plane (thanks Chris and Steve) and instead of sifting through all of our back issues to find articles about plane use, I picked up a copy of Hand Tools in the Modern Shop. This special issue not only taught me the background of my new tool, but also how to assemble the parts and sharpen the iron, as well as the variety of uses for this versatile plane. Whether you're a beginning woodworker like me, or an expert craftsman, these special issues will provide you a one-stop place to learn about your favorite woodworking topic. Now you can download this issue, and five others, at our Popular Woodworking Shop. For a taste of what you'll find inside Hand Tools in the Modern Shop, I've listed the table of contents below. And as a bonus, here's a link to download the featured article " Sharpen Plane Irons & Chisels." – Drew DePenning----------- CONTENTS WHAT YOU MUST KNOW:Why Use Hand ToolsYou don't have to be highly dextrous or specially trained to use hand tools. Find out the simple steps anyone can take to quickly become an accomplished hand-tool user. SHARPENING:Sharpen Plane Irons & Chisels(click here to download article)Sharpening is the most essential skill needed to begin hand work. It's not complex or mysterious. Here's a simple and tested way to start – no matter what sharpening system you use: waterstones, oilstones, or ceramics. Cabinet ScrapersScrapers are a secret weapon. They remove tear-out that other tools can't tame. Here's how to sharpen and use a cabinet scraper. by Don McConnellSide-clamp Honing GuideThis common and inexpensive sharpening jig allows beginners to achieve truly sharp edges. PLANES:Use a Smoothing PlaneSmoothing planes quickly transform rough wood into a ready-to-finish shimmering state. Learn to choose, set up, and use this astonishingly precise hand plane. Traditional Wooden PlanesWooden-bodied planes seem simple – almost crude – but they are actually highly refined instruments capable of great finesse. by Don McConnell
Metal-bodied Jack PlanesIf you own only one bench plane, it probably should be a jack plane. It can be set up to do a wide variety of workshop tasks. The Versatile Block PlaneThe block plane is a pint-sized problem-solver in any shop. Here are tips for setting up a vintage plane and putting it to use. by Lonnie Bird The Essential Shoulder PlaneTweaking almost any joint to have an airtight fit is easy with a well-tuned shoulder plane. by Lonnie BirdPrecision Edge JointingJointer planes and try planes can produce edge joints superior to those from a powered jointer. The trick is in how the iron is sharpened and the way the plane is wielded. by Don McConnell SAWS:The Case for HandsawsHandsaws are neither obsolete nor difficult to use. Learn how, when and why you should use these venerable and useful tools. by Graham BlackburnHandsaws: East vs. WestJapanese-style pullsaws outsell western saws in North America. Find out the true and important differences between them so you can choose the right tool for your work. Miter Shooting BoardsThis simple workshop accessory is the real secret to sawing perfect miters – whether you do it by hand or with a power miter saw. by Don McConnellThe Basic Bench Hook The first backsaw accessory you should make is a bench hook. Three pieces of scrap make an accurate and indispensable jig. by Don McConnellCHISELS:Bench GougesBench gouges are not for ornamental carving. Find out how to use this oft-misunderstood and useful tool for rough stock removal. by Don McConnell
9/16/2008 11:50:43 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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 Sunday, September 14, 2008
Build the Holtzapffel Workbench Part 7: Gone

The funny thing about teaching a woodworking class is that I always come away learning a few things, about woodworking and about other woodworkers.
I left Berea late Saturday afternoon, and the eight benches we built headed to their final destinations (with the exception of the bench built by Larry the Alaskan – he’s staying on for a couple other classes at Kelly Mehler’s School of Woodworking).
During my 110-mile drive home, I made a quick stop at Starbucks in Lexington to wake myself up and then sorted out the week in my head. Here’s what fell out:
• All thickness planers should have digital readouts. After a week of using Kelly’s Format-brand thickness planer, I am convinced that adding an accurate digital scale to my thickness planer should be my No. 1 shop improvement this fall. The Format’s digital readout allowed us to get boards to an accurate thickness and width. And when we made mistakes, we could make replacement parts with little effort. I’m not a real gizmo-oriented woodworker (no lasers in my shop). This is not a gizmo. If I had my way, all planers would come with a digital readout.
• All jointer fences should be welded at 90° to their beds. Years ago, we fixed the jointer at the magazine’s shop so you cannot move its fence off 90°. I’d forgotten what a boon this was until I had to use jointers with adjustable fences. Many of the mistakes students made this week were the result of the jointer’s fence slipping. If I had my way, all jointers would come with 90° fences as the standard. Tilting fences would be an accessory.
• Wax is great for drawboring. I wrote about this already. After assembling several more bench bases this way, I became even more convinced.
• Matches are good for repairs. As we assembled these benches, many of the students dinged up their workbench legs with mallet blows. Some of these dings could be soaked out with water, but Kelly’s clothes iron was broken, so we couldn’t steam them out (a very common trick). Kelly showed us all a trick where he soaked a dent with water, then waved a couple lit matches close to the ding. This heated up the wood (it didn’t char it), and raised the dent. Cool.
• Using both hand tools and power tools is how I like to work. Some of the students were afraid I was going to make them cut the 3”-deep mortises by hand. Or true up all the rough stock with handplanes. Other students were shocked when a bit and brace was the only tool that would do the job well. Or how nice the bases looked after being smooth planed. I like to be able to choose from all the tools they make for woodworking. Some require electricity. Some require you to learn to tune them like an instrument. All of them have their uses (that’s not entirely true; I still roll my eyes at some of the accessories and jigs sold for both hand and power tools).
• Woodworkers are the nicest people I’ve met. I used to be a newspaper reporter. And after four or five years of that, I found that I didn’t much like the people I wrote about. (And they didn’t like me either, I suspect.). Woodworkers are different. I’ve met thousands of them since I started here in 1996, and I have never met a better class of people. And this class of eight people was no different. I’d trust them all to watch my children. Really.
I made it back home around dinner time, and my wife had (blissfully) ordered us all some Indian food. And there was Belgian beer in the fridge. Then I held down the couch for the rest of the evening and slithered off to bed for an unheard-of 10 hours.
After a few days the soreness in my arms and shoulders will dissipate, but the result of our labors – the eight Holtzapffel-style workbenches – will get set up and tuned up. And that is when the real work begins. — Christopher Schwarz
Read other entries by Christopher Schwarz
9/14/2008 12:37:46 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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 Friday, September 12, 2008
Build the Holtzapffel Workbench Part 6: Guessing

I don’t know if it’s my upbringing or some sort of deep-South formality that was transmitted to me via a Sonic cherry lime-aid, but I always wear a collard shirt when I work or travel.
Actually, it probably was my upbringing. Legend has it that my grandmother never wore a pair of pants a day in her life – only skirts.
So I was a little uncomfortable stripping down to a T-shirt today to demonstrate how to flatten a benchtop. But it was so flipping hot and humid on Kelly Mehler’s front lawn that I was willing to shave myself bald to get cool if need be.
Despite my discomfort, I was really pleased to be giving this demonstration on a Friday afternoon. All of the students have assembled their Holtzapffel-style workbenches and have fit their end vises. Tomorrow we just have to install the twin-screw vises – and we have most of that work done already.
So when the eight students roll out of here tomorrow, they’ll each have a functioning workbench – including one workbench that is already certifiably dead flat, thanks to the planing demonstration today.
What is cool about this class is that each of these benches is different. The Holtzapffel design is flexible enough to accommodate a wide variety of vises, from old ones salvaged from other benches, to a Lie-Nielsen face vise used in the end-vise position. All of these benches are slightly different heights and lengths and widths to meet the needs of its maker.
And all of them look fantastic. We had seven of them on the lawn today, all of them turtle-backed on sawhorses as the students merrily installed their end vises in a notch cut into the top with just a handful of chisel chops (thanks to the Makita circular saw jig I brought along).
Despite the large-scale joinery, the recalcitrant maple, the unusual fastening techniques (bolts and drawboring) all of the students turned out benches that will easily last hundreds of years.
In fact, we joked about this a little bit before lunch. As we were hammering home some drawbore pegs, I noted that those pegs would be tight for several generations. One of the students remarked that after he died his bench would probably end up in somebody’s high-end kitchen, or a plant stand in someone’s nursery or in an antique mall to hold a wide variety of ugly items for sale.
And that might be true, but if we build enough pieces of fantastic furniture on our benches, then someone will keep them safe for us. I guard a bench myself. My grandfather’s bench is where I spent my summers with him, building nice things for his house (bookshelves with split-bamboo turnings) and junky stuff for me (a ring made from a silver quarter, stands for my model ships).
Handmade benches are one of the most personal pieces of your work that you can pass down. They are not only an expression of what you think is quality workmanship, but their passing to another is the passing of an obligation. Will your progeny use it to show off their wisterias? Or their workmanship?
I wonder about these eight benches and what the next 100 years holds for them. Of course, I’m also still sweating on my keyboard hours after that planing demonstration, so I’m also wondering if I should take off my T-shirt and drink a beer (also a result of my deep-South upbringing).
— Christopher Schwarz
Larry the Alaskan finds that his end vise actually fits its notch. Yee-haw. Suzanne from Cincinnati tunes up her benchtop to accept her end vise. The Festool box is for a jigsaw we used to waste away some of the material to fit the vises. Read other entries by Christopher Schwarz
9/12/2008 8:18:37 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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 Thursday, September 11, 2008
Build the Holtzapffel Workbench Part 5: Grease

This is my favorite picture of the ones I've taken while documenting the class. Here we're routing out the cavities for the bolts that hold the workbench bases together.
When you teach anything – animal husbandry, frog gigging or brain surgery – here’s some advice for you: Don’t give demonstrations after lunch.
Today in class we had a lot to accomplish; the goal was to get the bases ready to assemble on Friday morning. It was an ambitious plan, and the students worked quietly and diligently all morning to tune up their tenons and mortises.
Lunch today was shrimp Creole (Kelly Mehler always provides hearty hot lunches). And it smelled really good. I didn’t actually eat the Creole. You see, it’s not that I have a thing against chomping our crustacean chums, it’s that I have a thing against lunch. If I eat a big lunch, then I want to crawl under my workbench and take a nap. I learned this in kindergarten, where it was encouraged. Then they beat it out of you, which is no fair.
So I eat a light lunch. Greek yogurt. Some fruit. Maybe a cup of coffee. That way I’m quasi-perky come 1 p.m.
After lunch, one of the students, we’ll call him “Rob the Canadian,” asked if I would give a demonstration on drawboring. Rob the Canadian was at the point in his project where he needed the demonstration to proceed with his workbench. He’s a meticulous craftsman, incredibly driven, and he is a few steps ahead of the rest of the class as a result.
A little voice inside my head said that drawboring and digestion don’t play well together. But I wanted to keep Rob on track. Plus, I beat the tar out of things with a mallet during the demonstration, and I say funny words like “old groat.” So I agreed.
And 20 minutes into my demonstration Rob the Canadian drifted (briefly) off to sleep.
There’s more to the story (including some fairly hilarious teasing that continued long into the day), but we’ll just let that part of the story stay in Berea.
After waking up Rob the Canadian, I continued the demonstration. And that’s when another student, we’ll call him “Larry the Alaskan,” dropped a bomb on me. Larry the Alaskan recently took a three-month course in timber framing, and they also used drawboring (albeit on a much bigger scale).
One of the most stressful parts of drawboring is driving in the peg through the offset holes you have bored. The peg can pull up your joint tight (that’s good), or it can explode (that’s bad). Larry the Alaskan said that he was taught to simply wax their pins before driving them.
So we tried it on one of the student’s bases. All I can say is “wow.” Driving a 5”-long waxed oak pin through hard maple has never been easier. In the past, I’ve been driving my pegs while they were coated with nothing, hide glue or yellow glue. All three of the techniques have advantages and disadvantages.
But coating them with wax? That is genius. It’s such a good tip, I almost don’t feel like I should get paid for today’s work. Well, unless you count the bit of sleeping therapy I provided.
— Christopher Schwarz
Rob the Canadian and Kelly Mehler look over his assembled workbench end after drawboring the oak pegs through the mortises. Read other entries by Christopher Schwarz
9/11/2008 10:34:40 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)
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