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# Friday, December 12, 2008
Woodworking Nerd Test Part 1
Woodworkers have a slightly different definition of normal than the rest of the world. Keeping special pieces of wood for a long, long time falls into that category. A little more than seventeen years ago, I picked up a bunch of cherry at an unbelievable price. But that's another story, and another symptom. Within that pile were some boards that looked like they were infested with bugs or covered with mold, odd little dark spots on the surface of the rough lumber. I first thought it wasn't any good, but when I got around to surfacing some I discovered I was now the owner of some bird's eye Cherry.


The problem was that I didn't have very much of it, and I couldn't decide what to make with it. So I kept it. And I moved it. These boards have been moved from upstate New York where I bought it to Columbus, Cleveland, back to Columbus and four years ago here to Cincinnati. I haven't had a good place to keep it, so it has been in the way in my garage and I have had to step over the pile every time I take the garbage out.

Finally this summer I brought one piece into the shop and cut off the end to make a handle for a Gramercy Dovetail Saw kit. I then spent the rest of the summer and most of the fall defending the remaining piece from my shop mates when they were looking for some Cherry.

At long last, the ideal project arrived and it will use the last of this stash, maybe with enough left over for another saw handle or a few chisel and rasp handles. It's been fun to work with this and it will look a lot nicer in the living room than out in the garage. Of course when I moved the pile of Cherry out, I discovered a cardboard box labeled "Exotic Scraps". Someday they will be good for something.

--Bob Lang

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Friday, December 12, 2008 10:26:38 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [5] 
# Friday, December 05, 2008
Tool Review: WorkSharp to Sharpen Wide Tools


With all the talk at our “Woodworking in America” conference about how to properly sharpen plane blades, I didn’t see or hear one presenter mention a power sharpening system. I know there are many woodworkers that sharpen with electric-powered sharpeners.

As you may know – I was asked numerous times at the conference – I use a WorkSharp 3000 to sharpen my chisels and plane blades. I find that tool the best way for me to put a fine edge on my hand tools. Yes, I do have a few hand tools.

On a 3000 (click here to see a video) the chisel and plane iron port sharpens tools up to 2" wide, so the machine is limited to work on narrow blades only. And with the only available bevel angles at 20°, 25°, 30° or 35° you were limited there as well. Not to mention it was only possible to add a 5º micro-bevel if desired. So from what seemed like day one of the introduction of WorkSharp WS3000, there was talk about an attachment to sharpen wider plane irons. That attachment came is now available.

The accessory uses a platform that’s bolted to the tool in place of the original top tool rest. There are leveling screws to bring the table into perfect position with the glass sanding discs – use a good straightedge to adjust the table. If the table isn’t level and in line with the discs, you may notice a slight skew as you sharpen your blades.

With the setup ready, you need to position your plane iron into a supplied honing guide.
One thing I picked up at the conference is to adjust the blade to an identical position each time you return to sharpen that blade. If you do that, you’ll spend less time sharpening and you’ll extend the life of your irons. WorkSharp’s Alignment Fixture – also included with the attachment – helps you do just that.

Simply set the alignment pin into the fixture at your desired setting (arrow facing away), slide your iron – bevel up – into the guide as it’s held to the fixture and the blade nuzzles up to the pin, then tighten the honing guide, capturing the blade.

One catch in using this accessory is to match the bevel angle scale on the alignment fixture to the appropriate position on the honing guide. There’s a white scale with angles that match those at the port, or an amber scale that has multiple settings from 25º to 60º. (I’m not fond of the stick-on labels used designate white or amber positioning. I’m fearful those labels might vanish leaving one to wonder which position is which.)

Once the blade is set into the guide, you’re ready to sharpen. Flip the honing guide so your bevel angle is down and the wheel of the guide is running on the plate. Introduce the iron to the sanding disc and you’re off to a keen edge.

Of course, you’ll need to work through the grits to gain a sharp edge, and if you use a micro-bevel you’ll need to adjust the blade in the guide a second time. This time adjust the alignment pin with a simple turn. By placing the pin in the same hole setting, but turning the arrow to point toward the guide and blade, you’re adding a 1º micro-bevel. That also shortens your time spent sharpening when you touch up the edge.

I plan to continue to sharpen with a WorkSharp 3000 in the future. Now I can work on my plane irons as well.

At the conference many different methods for sharpening were discussed. What method do you use? Water stones? Oil stones? Sandpaper by hand or a tool such as a WorkSharp? Let us know by answering our survey.

— Glen D. Huey


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Friday, December 05, 2008 2:03:59 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [9] 
# Wednesday, December 03, 2008
Bridge City Sale on Profiles for the HP-6

If you've ever wondered what happens when you combine high-quality beautifully designed tools with a blue-light special, head on over to Bridge City Tools.

The Portland, Ore., toolmaking company is having a sale on the different profiles for its HP-6. The HP-6 is a cool moulding plane that uses interchangeable soles and cutters so you can produce a wide variety of profiles.

The sale is pretty good. If you buy three profiles, you get two more for free. And for every additional profile you buy, you get another one free (buy five profiles, get four for free etc.) all the way up to 10 profiles.

We purchased an HP-6 for our shop and like it a great deal. It makes beautiful, highly detailed mouldings that don't require any sanding.

You can download our review of the HP-6 by clicking the link below.

HP-6V2.pdf (261.78 KB)

There is (naturally) some fine print, and this special is good for phone or e-mail orders only. So head on over to John Economaki's blog for details. Note: The sale end Dec. 9.

— Christopher Schwarz

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Wednesday, December 03, 2008 12:40:07 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [0] 
# Monday, December 01, 2008
Make a SketchUp Model and Earn an Annual CD
Back in October we launched a Google SketchUp Collection of projects that have been featured in Popular Woodworking and Woodworking magazines. Your response has been great, and we'd like to ask our SketchUp using readers to help us build the collection. Over the years we've published lots of plans, and most of them are available on the Projects page of popularwoodworking.com. Two-dimensional drawings are good, but 3-D models are even better.


Not sure how pieces in a magazine project connect? With SketchUp on your computer you can zoom in for a close look, disassemble it, measure the parts and even look at it with X-ray vision.

In addition to making projects easier to understand, SketchUp allows you to start with a design you saw in the magazine and quickly modify it to suit your needs. Like that bookcase, but want to make it narrower or taller? You can start with one of our models and make it shrink or grow. Need a smaller version of that cool workbench? Download our model, size it to your space and you have a working plan that you can print, with accurate sizes of the parts to make your cutlist.

We’ve been using SketchUp for a couple years as the starting point for projects you see in our pages, and we plan to put the models online with the publication of each new issue. We don’t have models of older projects in this format, but we get numerous requests for them. Here is where you the reader can help everyone out, and in return get rewarded in the process.

Make a model in SketchUp based on the published drawings for any project ever published in the pages of Popular Woodworking or Woodworking Magazine. Large furniture projects are great, but so are small projects, jigs and tricks. When you’re finished, send it to popwood@fwmedia.com. We’ll look it over, and if it is an acceptable model, we will add it to our collection listing you as the author of the model. In return, you get the following:

If we use your model in the collection, you will receive your choice of any of our annual CDs.
We’d also like to see your own projects – something you’ve made, or something you’d like to make. If we add it to our collection, you’ll get the loot mentioned above, and if we decide to publish it as a project in the magazine, we will pay you our usual author fees in real money.

Drop me an e-mail or leave a comment if you have any questions.

--Bob Lang



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Monday, December 01, 2008 1:57:51 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [2] 
Purchase by Torque


In the 26 months that I’ve been working at Popular Woodworking, we’ve studied and discussed drills in most ways imaginable. We’ve examined batteries moving from 12 volts through 18 volts and even up to 36 volts in power. (Now we’re moving back down the scale to see manufacturers develop 10.8-volt drill/drivers and even a handful of tools with 4-volt or lower batteries.)

And we’ve traversed the chasm from Nickel-cadmium to Lithium-ion batteries. We’ve even divided Lithium batteries into a number of sub-categories. So what’s next?

Torque! That’s the next measurement manufacturers want us to use to decide which drill/driver to purchase. Is this something meaningful to woodworkers? I can see torque being important when you drive 3" screws into a deck, but when I use my drill under normal circumstances, I cannot see where one tool with more measurable torque is better. But, I don’t adjust my drill torque. I tend to leave the setting at the "drill" mode and simply release the trigger when the screw is set to my required depth. I do, however, have to agree that providing a given measurement that would allow us to directly compare apples to apples – or drill to drills in this case – is a good idea.

To that end, most manufacturers have agreed upon a set of accepted guidelines to measure torque. These guidelines are set forth by the Power Tool Institute (PTI) – to which most major tool manufacturers belong. (Click here for a list of members.) This method for measuring relative output torque does not apply to hammer drills, rotary drills and impact drivers.

The Relative Torque Measurement (RTM) is reported to a 95 percent degree of confidence. The test is made on five normal production samples that have not been modified, and each sample is tested five times with a minimum three-minute cool down between tests. This, according to PTI, ensures more consistent readings.

Cordless tools use the same battery for all five trials without recharging. A properly conditioned battery –in PTI terms, a battery that consists of five charges and discharges completed on the supplied battery charger – is used.

Corded tools are tested with a regulated power supply circuit that matches the voltage and frequency numbers on the tool’s nameplate.

All tools will be supported in a torque fixture (See the PDF below) to prevent any movement from applied torque and if there’s a clutch on the drill/driver, that clutch is set to a full-lock position. (If the tool slips, the test results are considered invalid and will be repeated.) If the tool has changeable gears, it will be tested in the gear that results in the greatest torque.

The results of the 25 tests are tabulated and put through a number of mathematical calculations to find the "Lower 95% Confidence Limit" and the "Upper Confidence Limit." The rating released falls somewhere within these two boundaries.

If you would like to read the exact process for yourself, open the PDF below.

First to adopt and publish results from these tests is Makita. On the company’s web site, a couple of Makita drill/drivers have the torque numbers listed.

Any comments?

—Glen D. Huey

Torque Fixture.pdf (347.12 KB)

PTI Test.pdf (308.26 KB)


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Monday, December 01, 2008 1:51:37 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [3] 
A Stinky Solution for Soiled Saws

While pegging the joints in a Shaker stepback I built for the February 2009 issue of Popular Woodworking (which mails to subscribers at the end of December), I used a $100 flush-cut saw. It’s a darn nice saw. Unless one clogs the teeth with glue.

Now, I didn’t intend to make it look as if I were trying to cover up my crime. I meant to ask Editor Christopher Schwarz how best to clean the yellow glue out of its tiny little teeth. But he was out that day, I got distracted with other stuff, and the saw ended up back in the rack, gunk and all.

About two weeks later, it was summarily brought to my attention that this pricey saw was now unusable. But Chris suggested a solution (short of buying a new saw), and it worked. I poured white vinegar into a shallow Pyrex pan and soaked the gunked-up teeth for a half-hour or so, then I went to work with an old toothbrush. It took some serious scrubbing, but the vinegar softened the dried glue enough to allow me to scrub it out, tooth by tooth. To speed up the process, you could heat the vinegar in a microwave, but that would increase the aroma. (After a visit from our human resources department during the last time we sprayed a finish, well, we try to avoid stinky things as much as possible.) 

After the teeth were cleaned, I rinsed the vinegar away and wiped the blade with jojoba oil. The blade lost some of its shiny luster, but the teeth cut, and that's $100 I can spend on shoes. Or on a couple new Hock plane blades.

— Megan Fitzpatrick, managing editor


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Monday, December 01, 2008 1:04:19 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [6] 
# Tuesday, November 25, 2008
A Few of My Favorite Books

As Turkey Day hits and the retail market gears up for crowds, it's time for us to add one more cliche to the pile by making our suggestions of shopping options for the woodworking book lover. What the heck, try and go one day without a cliche! We asked the PW editors for their favorite books from who else, but Popular Woodworking Books! Oh, and I made them promise not to pick their own books, (I'll go ahead and do that for them!)

From Megan Fitzpatrick, managing editor:
I've been gravitating away from cords lately (my 115 year-old-house is sorely lacking in adequate electric); in my quest to better learn to use hand tools, I've found the collection of articles in "Hand Tool Essentials" to be invaluable. From the basics such as setting up and sharpening, to old-school techniques like drawboring, this book has it all.








From Robert W. Lang, senior editor:
I'm going with "I Can Do That". It's not for everyone, but it's the perfect book to give someone just starting out in woodworking.











From Christopher Schwarz, editor:
One of my favorite woodworking books of all time is Jim Tolpin's "Measure Twice Cut Once." I read the first edition of this book many years ago and it did something that few other woodworking books do. It made me rethink how I design, draw and build projects. Whenever people ask me for a list of woodworking books they should own, this one is always on the list.








Glen D. Huey, senior editor:
My favorite book from those listed on the PW site is "Pleasant Hill Shaker Furniture" by Kerry Pierce. I'm a projects-oriented guy and I like the pieces that Mr. Pierce selected to publish. If this book were passed to me for a holiday gift, I know full well that my shop time would be booked throughout the year. Shop time, that is, that wasn't shortened due to reading about the details of the pieces and life in the Shaker community. A solid understanding of Shaker furniture is as important as the actual description of how it's built.

And because I wouldn't let the PW editors pick their own books, here's a few of my favorites:

Workbenches, by Christopher Schwarz
If you've ever built a workbench, or you plan on building a workbench, or if you just like workbenches, this is the book for you. Great history, great instruction and a thoughtful look on how we use benches.










Drafting and Design for Woodworkers, by Robert W. Lang
Building is only part of the woodworker's evolutionary process. As we become comfortable with our craft we want to change designs or design our own. Bob walks through the steps to draw (pun intended) the design from our brains and put it on paper or the computer screen. A must for the developing woodworker.







Glen Huey's Illustrated Guide to Building Period Furniture, by Glen Huey
You've seen them in museums, but many of these furniture styles seem to be out-of-reach for many woodworker's skills. Not so! Glen brings the process down to earth and shares the secrets of successful period furniture.







We hope this list helps with your holiday shopping needs. but if you're still not seeing what you want, take a look at the entire store. Happy Thanksgiving!

— David Thiel, Popular Woodworking Books editor



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Tuesday, November 25, 2008 10:05:26 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [0] 
F+W Warehouse Book Sale is Back!

If a decade ago you lived in the Cincinnati area, you likely attended the F+W Warehouse sale. At the time, we had a book warehouse on our Evanston property (the old Coca Cola bottling plant), and every year we sold returns, remainders and overstock books at rock-bottom prices. It's been almost 10 years since we had the sale (Xavier University now owns that building – I think the old shop is where the rowing team keeps the sculls), but we now have a warehouse in the Fields-Ertel area, and we're delighted to announce that the sale is back and there are more than 60,000 pounds of low-priced books from which to choose (including, of course, a plethora of woodworking titles)!

Located in Governor's Plaza Center, 9131 Fields-Ertel Road (the ZIP code is 45249) the warehouse will be open from 9 a.m.-9 p.m. Monday through Saturday, and 10 a.m.- 7 p.m. Sundays, from Nov. 28 through Jan. 4, 2009. You have more than a month to get great deals ($10 and less!) on books covering the full range of F+W Media subjects including woodworking, antiques, home & garden, quilting, art, firearms, travel, scrapbooking, writing and much more! And if you can’t make it to Cincinnati for the sale? Visit clearancebooks.com, where you’ll find many of the same books, at the same blowout prices.

— Megan Fitzpatrick, managing editor


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Tuesday, November 25, 2008 8:38:57 AM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [0] 
# Monday, November 24, 2008
Roy Underhill Contemplates The Ax

One of the highlights of the Woodworking in America conference in November 2008 was Roy Underhill's keynote address. Underhill, the hero to many hand-tool woodworkers, touched on a lot of subjects. But one of the best parts of the speech was about his own personal history with the ax.

Two personal notes. Roy had been drinking (Red Bull) this night, which helps explains his particularly animated delivery. And my only disappointment with the speech was that Roy didn't decimate that podium with the ax. That thing was a piece of press-wood junk! 

You can read a lot more about the Woodworking in America conference on this special page.

— Christopher Schwarz

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Monday, November 24, 2008 1:57:21 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [1] 
Going Back to My Old School
When you hear about high school wood shop programs these days, the news is generally sad. Many schools have given up entirely, selling off the equipment and sending the message that there isn't any value in learning to make things out of wood. So it was refreshing to be invited to speak to the wood shop classes at my alma mater, Theodore Roosevelt High School in Kent, Ohio. My topic was Arts & Crafts furniture, and I was pleased to see that the program is not only alive and well, but it is thriving and heading in an interesting direction.


Troy Spear answers student's questions about their current project.

The program at Kent Roosevelt is a part of Wood Links, a partnership between the woodworking industry and educators to provide meaningful training in woodworking. The goal is to equip the students with the means to get jobs in the industry by certifying their skill levels. The program is led at Kent by Troy Spear, shown in the photo above, who was recently named the Wood Links teacher of the year. Classes cover a wide range of relevant topics including AutoCAD, CNC programming, furniture design and hands-on woodworking.



The shop is nicely equipped with a mix of old and new equipment. In my day it was full of vintage Delta Unisaws and Band Saws. Those machines are still there, along with the most recent addition, the Altendorf sliding table saw seen in the photo above. Next on the wish list is a CNC router to ensure that these kids are learning on the same type of equipment that is used in the real world.

As I set out to return to Cincinnati, I got one more reminder of life in my old home town, a nice dose of Lake Effect Snow. A local radio station let me know that the interstate west of Akron was experiencing a white out and was closed due to the number of wrecks. I decided to head south instead of west to get around the storm and was beginning to grumble about losing time when I looked to the left and saw a comforting sight.




My detour just happened to go by Hartville Tool, and they just happened to be having a sale. When life throws you a snowball . . .

— Bob Lang


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Monday, November 24, 2008 1:53:39 PM (Eastern Standard Time, UTC-05:00)  #  Comments [0] 
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