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# Tuesday, July 07, 2009
Guess the Avatar

Ladies and gentlemen, we have a winner: Congrats to Craig Parker. Answers are at the bottom.

We're in the midst of a cover test for the October issue of Popular Woodworking (you can cast your vote here), and as always, the editorial staff has placed friendly bets on which will be the winner. We've each placed our "avatar" atop our favorite cover (or the one we think will garner the most votes).

What does this have to do with you? If you can correctly guess which avatar represents which staff member you can win a DVD. The first respondent to correctly match all the avatars to their staff member will win a FREE copy of our latest DVD: "Turning Basics for Furniture Makers with Steve Shanesy."

Entries must be e-mailed to Megan.Fitzpatrick@fwmedia.com. And to make it a bit more challenging, I'll tell you that Senior Editor Glen D. Huey and Publisher Steve Shanesy are out of the office – which leaves the remaining five staff members...and I'm not giving their names. (OK, four...as you have to e-mail me – but my avatar is a gimme, anyway.)

The answers:

Luke Skywalker: Drew DePenning; Dwight Schrute: Chris Schwarz; Bullwinkle: Bob Lang; Phone Wire Man: Linda Watts (she made this sculpture!); Shakespeare: Megan Fitzpatrick.

— Megan Fitzpatrick


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Tuesday, July 07, 2009 11:24:48 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [3] 
Bicycles, Routers and Lathes


Once again, I said yes to a friend (it seems I say yes to lots of my friends) who wanted me to duplicate some woodworking in a house he is rehabing. This time it was something I’ve never done. But, of course, I said “No problem”. (Whenever I say that, I always hear this other voice telling me this WILL be a problem, but I always ingnore it.)

This little project involved making two balusters — with spirals. I own a lathe and can turn well enough, but I wasn’t sure how to cut the spirals. I asked a few folks and they all said, “Oh, you have to carve them by hand”. Yeah, right. I like hand using hand tools as much as the next woodworker but this seemed like a nightmare coming to life. How would I keep the grooves consistant and parallel to each other? How long would this take? I would need to practice on other woods before I broke out the mahagony (the wood used in the rest of the staircase). Seemed like this would be a problem.

So, I began a quest for the perfect way to make these balusters using power tools (the ones with cords). I began searching the internet for tools, clues and techniques that would make this task “easy”. I found a couple of tools that would do what I wanted, but one of them was extinct and the other cost a lot of money. I started reading some threads of conversations about such a tool. One chap from England said, “There’s a book out there titled ‘Router Magic’ and it has plans for a rather sturdy looking tool called a router lathe.”

I got all excited because we have a copy of Router Magic, written by Bill Hylton, here at Popular Woodworking. I grabbed the book and there it was — the router lathe. All I had to do was build it. I just needed some plywood, a router and, what? — bicycle parts? Yup, I read it correctly. Well, I have 6 bicycles, so “Frankesteining” one of them would be okay.

Bill Hylton was still working at Reader’s Digest, writing about woodworking. He and his buddy, Fred Matlack, came up with this very clever tool and it looked like something I could make. I stripped my bicycle, found some plywood, bought some hardware and started the build. I had no idea it would be this much fun! The photo shows where I’m at now. It’s almost finished and I can’t wait to start turning balusters with my router.

I’ll show the final results in a couple of weeks and let you know if it works. Oh, and don’t forget to order Bill Hylton’s new book, “The Drawer Book”.

Jim Stack
Senior Editor, Popular Woodworking books



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Tuesday, July 07, 2009 9:03:00 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [10] 
# Monday, July 06, 2009
Old School How To

We all know that there has been a tremendous revival in hand tools. I learned to work with wood in the early 1970s, and the old geezers I worked with would sometimes head for the joiner, and sometimes pick up a plane. They had a sense of which tool was better for any given task. They all used tools they had purchased when they were young, and when I went looking for tools of my own I couldn't find many new ones that were worth buying. I ended up spending a lot of money ($35.00) at the time for an English shoulder plane, and I borrowed the Stanley No. 4 from my dad, who had borrowed it about 20 years before from his dad. We're much better off today, but I've been wondering lately about why we needed a revival. Why were hand tools all but abandoned in the 1950s and 1960s?


I have some theories, and in search for evidence beyond my own thoughts I decided to take a look at how-to magazines from fifty years ago. The image above is from the February 1951 issue of Popular Mechanics. Google Books has issues available online going back to 1905. I haven't come to any conclusions yet, but I did come across some interesting ads.


Here's a fifty-year old image of the ideal power tool shop of the day, complete with knotty-pine paneling and linoleum tile floor. The tools are small in scale, but aren't too out of line. Other ads however, seem a bit silly. One of the hot items of the day was the portable electric drill, and it seems there was a race to make the drill a universal power source for all manner of tasks.


I've never seen an Arco-Saw, but my dad did have an attachment that turned his electric drill into a jig saw. Or so it claimed on the box. I tried to get it to work a time or two as a teenager, but never had much success. Safety was also a concern back then, and here is another item I've never seen:


The idea is that the blade has only eight teeth, and they protrude only .020" from the plate. It features a "wedge cutting action" that eliminates kick back. I'm surprised that no one carried the idea to the next level; a blade with no teeth would eliminate kickback and sawdust as well.

Ads for power tools were far more numerous than those for hand tools, but there were hand tool ads in print, along with numerous gizmos for sharpening and setting hand saws, and golden opportunities to be found in the saw sharpening business.

And there were a few non-woodworking ads that caught my eye.


My older brother had a chemistry set, but I don't believe that his came equipped with "Safe Atomic Energy". That's just as well, since most of his experiments involved pyrotechnics. What really made me want a time machine was this:


$3.75 was a considerable sum in 1951, but I think a jet propelled bicycle would be well worth it.

I didn't get much closer to answering the question I had, but I did get an interesting look at the culture of the time. If you have any favorite oddball tools from the era, or theories about why hand tools fell out of fashion before making a comeback, tell us about them by leaving a comment below.


--Robert W. Lang


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Monday, July 06, 2009 3:37:51 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [4] 
New Addition to Woodworking in America Lineup

We are pleased to announce George Walker as an addition to the Woodworking in America: Furniture Construction and Design Conference (Aug. 14-16 in St. Charles, Ill.). George's session, "Unlocking the Secrets of Traditional Design," will be at 6 p.m. on Friday. (That's also the title of his excellent new DVD from Lie-Nielsen Toolworks; you can read a review of it here.)

At this session, you'll discover how period woodworkers easily sized door frames, table aprons, crown mouldings and more, with proportions based on architecture, and how these time-tested principles still apply to both modern and traditional work. You'll learn the fundamentals of proportions, forms and the classic orders. You'll pick up practical skills to help you unravel the design behind a great piece of furniture. Mastering proportions will unlock your creativity and increase your design confidence.

Plus, George will be set up for at least a couple hours every day of the conference to demonstrate his methods, answer questions and more.

Check out all the speakers and sessions – and register now at WoodworkinginAmerica.com. (And if you've already registered, you don't need to sign up for this new session – just show up!)


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Monday, July 06, 2009 2:53:47 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [0] 
Well, it is Called 'Compass Inlay'

I’m near Philadelphia this week teaching at Acanthus Workshops. This is Chuck Bender’s woodworking school. (You know Chuck, he wrote the “Carving Spanish Feet” article in our April 2009 issue.)

Chuck and I go way back to the days when he and I traveled around the country to sell furniture. He still does a show now and then, but has focused his attention on teaching and writing about woodworking.

The thing that keeps Chuck and me connected (besides our passion for building reproduction furniture) is that we both have a basic approach to woodworking. Neither of us looks to complicate what we do – we prefer to keep things straightforward and simple. So when I arrived at his shop, I did what most woodworkers do when they enter new woodworking territory. I scouted around to see his tools, then we discussed woodworking. (I’ll share information about his woodworking machines later in the week – you simply have to see the old iron in his shop.)

During our talk, we got onto the topic of inlay (Chuck will have plenty to say about inlay at our Hand Tools & Techniques Conference in October). I asked how he cuts the grooves for inlay on his spice boxes and his basic, simple approach was immediately evident. He handed me a compass and said, “They call it compass inlay, you know!”

Look closely at the compass shown in the photo. Chuck has one end ground to the exact size he needs for stringing. All that’s left is to use the customized tool to scratch in the groove. That’s a new one on me. And you better believe that I’ll try that on my next Chester County inlaid spice box.

Stay tuned. I’m not sure how many other ideas I’ll get while I’m here, but I’ll pass along anything worthwhile (please don’t tell Chuck I'm stealing his tricks!).

— Glen Huey, senior editor


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Monday, July 06, 2009 9:12:31 AM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [1] 
# Thursday, July 02, 2009
Small Scraps and Simple Pleasures



Last Friday afternoon I was paid a surprise visit by my girlfriend. She had the day off, so it was nice to have her see a day in the life of an Associate Editor for the Web.

Unfortunately, watching me edit the BookShop News newsletter isn't as exciting as she thought, and pretty soon thumb twiddling ensued.

Not wanting to bore her to tears I finished up my work, looked up and said "Wanna go make something?"

Her eyes lit up, and I saw the wheels churning as she thought about the endless possibilities.

"What could we make?" she asked.

Being the good boyfriend, I replied "Let's go make some jewelry."

I ushered her into the shop and we headed straight to the scrap bin. "Ooh, this is pretty – what's this?" she inquired.

"That's cherry," I said, "and this is oak, and this is walnut." I held up a nice size off-cut from a Bible box project to be featured in the October issue.

"I like that one!" she said. Apparently that wasn't the only scrap she liked – her arms were already full of strips of cherry and oak.

What she doesn't know is at this time I was furiously thinking about what in the world we could make with this piece of walnut that she could be proud of making and I wouldn't have to lose fingers. Remembering a conversation she and I had the other day I suggested we make a ring.

Bob Lang was in the shop with us so I asked him what he thought. Apparently, because rings are circular, grain direction wouldn't matter too much (it would be weak at least on two points). Knowing my girlfriend's jewelry preference, I knew she'd design something huge and chunky – so grain strength was no longer a worry.

With that reassurance in mind, my girlfriend busted out her art school skills and drafted a design on the block using Bob's compass. Then it was off to the drill press. At first excited about our speed of progress, I soon found myself dumbfounded with the realization that I have no clue how to size this ring. Staring into the box of Forstner bits I began pondering about ring size conversion charts when my girlfriend broke my trance – she took off her silver ring, grabbed a few bits and handed me the one that fit inside.

"Here," she said, "use this one."

She's a keeper.

I quickly drilled the hole and then headed to the band saw to cut out the shape. That was my favorite part. With my work done, I could now teach my girlfriend about how to use a rasp. In no time we were back in my cubicle, with her joyfully shaping her ring. She even wrote a song about it:

"Oh tiny rasp, why are you so tiny? Because I help you get into small spaces."

With her work nearly completed, we went back into the shop for some final sanding.  In no time she had a beautiful ring entirely of her own design, entirely homemade.

Although this was a very simple project compared to a dovetailed Bible box, it was nice to share with my girlfriend how you can make something yourself that you'll love and cherish.

I need to get into the shop more often.

Drew DePenning
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Thursday, July 02, 2009 3:13:34 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [2] 
# Wednesday, July 01, 2009
Some Assembly Required

You’d think I’d know better. But being in desperate need of one place where I could store and easily access all my music CDs, I was seduced by the clearance price and vintage look of a CD cabinet in an on-line catalog. I grabbed my credit card, punched the keys and my order was quickly on its way. It was after I placed my order that I saw the phrase “some assembly required” in the product description.

A week later, a soft, flat cardboard box arrived with both ends barely held together with packing tape. Apparently there was going to be more than “some” assembly necessary for this cabinet. But I pushed the dining room table and chairs to the wall and in a storm of Styrofoam, pulled out all the pieces. Both doors were damaged. The instructions said that the company would be happy to send replacements, so a week later I received another set of doors — in oak. My cabinet was cherry (well, cherry-colored). So one more week later another set of doors arrived, and I excitedly began assembly. With the cabinet standing, and only the doors laid out on the dining room rug, I was mentally envisioning my CDs standing smartly on shelves behind glass-paneled doors in a matter of minutes. And my dining room would once more become a place to enjoy dinner. I carefully placed the glass panes behind the lattice on the doors. They were too long by an eighth of an inch.

OK, I thought. A lunch-hour trip to the hardware store to have the glass cut down will take care of this. But the glass cutter was unsure if it was tempered glass, and he wasn’t willing to do the job. I had to find someone who was familiar with working with tempered glass. Another lunch-hour trip the next day led me to Andrew at Oakley Paint & Glass, who miraculously made my glass panels the right size in short order.

That evening, it all came together at last. I gathered all my CDs and organized them neatly on the shelves (by category and alphabetically, of course). I sighed happily as I closed the doors — and they wouldn’t quite close all the way. Arrrrrgggggghhhh! What could be wrong now? A couple of the little plastic thingies that held the glass in the door were positioned in just the right place for the screws to dig into the shelf behind them.

Those two thingies are now gone, the doors are completely closed and my CD collection is together once more. The cabinet serves its purpose and fits nicely into my almost 80-year-old home. But I’ve learned my lesson. Note to self: Read product description carefully before hitting the “send” button, and don’t believe everything you read. They weren’t exactly untruthful. The lattice was already stapled into the doors.

Maybe I need to take a lesson from Megan and get serious about learning the craft of woodworking.

— Linda Watts, art director



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Wednesday, July 01, 2009 1:49:30 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [1] 
# Tuesday, June 30, 2009
Own a Piece of The Schwarz

Those of you who follow Editor Christopher Schwarz's writing on the Woodworking Magazine blog may recall the sad, sad day that Chris was forced to kill off his companion of more than a decade. His beloved lubricant-soaked Woobie was traded in for a younger and cleaner model, with no implants...of sawdust and swarf (you can read the post here).

I rescued Woobie from the trash bin. And today we were looking for amusing ways in which to avoid work (a rarity, of course). So we pulled out a grotty photograhy sweep, shot a few representative photos, and wrote an item description. Yes – Woobie is for sale on eBay. I just hope we get back the 95 cents it cost me to post it.

— Megan Fitzpatrick



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Tuesday, June 30, 2009 3:55:54 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [16] 
How to Scale Furniture

If you have come to this post looking for an easy, no-hard-work method to scale furniture, I’m afraid you’re going to be disappointed. There is no magic bullet. No simple number that can be used as a multiplier to arrive at the final sizes needed to enlarge or scale down a plan. However, there are a couple ways that work if you put in the time and effort.

The easiest, most simplistic method to scale furniture is to take a scaled drawing to your local copy shop and have them enlarge the piece to the size you are after. The drawings on the blanket chest in our August 2009 issue are to scale, so you would need to take the drawings to your copy shop and have them enlarge the plans by a certain percentage. To adjust the plan from a box size of 32” to the larger box size of 42”, you should ask that the plan be enlarged by 31.25 percent (32” x 1.3125 percent = 42”). In turn, the other measurements would also adjust accordingly. The overall height adjusts from 20” to 26-1/4” and the feet go to 5” from 3-3/4”.

While this option allows you to work from a drawing, I find it much more helpful to learn how to scale from photos – photos that are shown with full, mostly front-on views and not necessarily shown from angles. To do this, I use ratios of measurements taken off the photo.

As an example, the blanket chest photo I’m using measures 6-3/4” wide and in the description of the chest the actual width is 53”. To find other measurements along the width of the chest such as the width of one drawer, I’ll set up a ratio of 6.75/53. I can use this ratio to find the width of any other part of the chest so long as I take all my measurements from the same photo.

If the width of one of the long drawers in my photo equals 2-1/4”, then I would set up the following where X is the actual width of the drawer front:

6.75/53 – 2.25/X
(Read as 6.75 is to 53 as 2.25 is to X)

Solve for x with cross-multiplication

2.25 x 53 = 6.75X
119.25 = 6.75X
119.25/6.75 = X
17.666 = X


So the actual measurement of the drawer front, based on the photo, is 17-5/8”.

I would find another ratio for any measurements of height. Using my example, the photo measurement of the height of the chest is 3-7/16” while the height of the actual chest is listed at 29”. My ratio is 3.4375/29. Measuring the drawer height in the photo at 9/16” and solving for X in the ratio finds the actual drawer height.

3.4375/29 – .5625/x
(Read as 3.4375 is to 29 as .5625 is to X)

.5625 x 29 = 3.4375X
16.3125 = 3.4375X
16.3125/3.4375 = X
4.745 = X



The drawer height is 4.75 or 4-3/4”.

This process, along with a general knowledge about furniture construction, should give you a way to scale furniture from photos. I would use this ratio information to establish the sizes of the box of the blanket chest, and any interior-piece sizes would be determined off the actual box – as it should be. Begin with the main structure, be it a box for a blanket chest or the case for a chest of drawers, then fit any parts to that structure.

Additionally, there are ways to manipulate the drawings in SketchUp that allow the sizes to be scaled up and/or down – use the scale tool. But in doing so, the thicknesses of the parts also change and there might be other issues of which I’m not aware. If you scale in SketchUp, I would suggest you work only with the elevations of the drawings. And work on a copy of the project. That way you can compare your changes to that of the original.

— Glen D. Huey

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Tuesday, June 30, 2009 12:06:20 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [6] 
# Monday, June 29, 2009
New Handplane Book From Christopher Schwarz on Sale

Look around your neighborhood. The next time you see a truck belonging to a contractor or cabinetmaker, there’s a good chance that the company uses a handplane in its logo.

Though the image of a plane is the mark of the craftsman, there are few craftsmen who really know how to use the tool. Has this knowledge been lost? Are the tools simply obsolete?

The truth is that neither statement is true. The handplane is the most advanced and cunning wood-cutting tool ever invented, and it has yet to be surpassed by anything with a power cord. After World War II, handplanes began to disappear from shops because we traded speed for skill and expediency for quality.

But now the pendulum is swinging the other way. Modern toolmakers have revived the planemaking industry and are turning out quality tools the like of which haven’t been sold for 100 years. Woodworkers are discovering that these tools are fast, satisfying to use and produce remarkably crisp work.

"Handplane Essentials" aims to get you started. Inside these pages is the knowledge you need to choose the right handplanes for your shop, set them up correctly and put them to use building furniture for a lifetime. “Handplane Essentials” contains everything you need to choose the right tool for your budget and project, take it out of the box, sharpen it and use it successfully. The chapters in this book have been compiled from more than 10 years of my writings on the subject of handplanes in magazines, trade journals and blogs.

And it's a sizable book – 312 pages – and printed on high-quality paper. The hundreds of photos in the book have been sepia-toned, just like the photos in Woodworking Magazine (our sister publication). The book is hardbound, covered in black cloth with a copper embossing and a heavy full-color dust jacket. And – best of all – the book is produced and printed entirely in the United States. Here's what you'll find inside:

Basics
Learn what the different handplanes are used for. Decode their crazy numbering system so you can focus instead on what each tool does. And figure out what specific planes you need in your shop.

Sharpening
Learning to hone your cutters to a keen edge is the secret to getting your planes to work. “Handplane Essentials” shows you how to get this done no matter what sort of sharpening system you use now.

Techniques
Learn how to flatten individual boards, panels and even enormous tabletops with just a few bench planes. Learn to use specialty planes to cut grooves, rabbets and other joints.

History & Philosophy
If you understand historical practice, you’ll be a better handplane user – even if you choose to reject the traditional methods. Learn to pick a well-made old tool based on how it is made.

Reviews
Find out who makes the best high-quality tool, whether it’s a $50 plane from India or a $5,000 plane custom-made by a machinist in Scotland. I've tried them all.

The book is at the printer now and will be in stock during the first week of August. If you order before July 31, you'll receive a discount of 20 percent off the regular price of $34.99. That means the book will be $27.99 – plus free shipping.

After July 31, the book will be $34.99 (though shipping will still be free).

To read more or place your order, click here. To download an excerpt of the book in pdf format, the link below.

2-CoarseMediumFine.pdf (3.16 MB)

— Christopher Schwarz


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Monday, June 29, 2009 2:04:01 PM (Eastern Daylight Time, UTC-04:00)  #  Comments [1] 
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